LED Lenser T7 no.7439 light & Bracket Revised Long- Term Review

I originally posted the review in 10 April 2015, but since then I used it some more, when Gemini Xera light died, I had to get new lights, but in the meanwhile I used this light again until I got the new lights. I I have updated this review with more pictures and video, improved the text.

LED Lenser T7  no.7439_5281

its not a bike specific light but, i need a decent light fast, but it’s a horrible choice if you use it at max power for long distances after few days you need new batteries, So I can’t recommend this light for mountain biking.

So i got my self LED Lenser M7 LED  (Item no. 7439) flash light,

i got a clamp too it fits thick bars and comes with rubber spacers so it can fit on thinner handlebars or the thinner part of the bigger bars.

It comes with a belt pouch

LedLenser T7 belt pouch
Ledlenser T7 belt pouch
IMG_20190428_113004
IMG_20190428_113038

It attaches with a Velcro scrap & a metal button for extra security

pros:

  • easy to adjust focus, by moving the head forward & backwards.
  • made of metal so its strong, but its heavier than plastic lights of course
  • nice button on the back with nice feel, and click.
  • pattern for extra grip
  • good battery cartridge, you can’t get the batteries or cartridge stuck inside the light.

cons:

  • Last about 6 Hours  with Energizer Max Power batteries, after 6 hours it is getting too weak to ride with.
  • Lights up way too small area,its useless for riding fast in dark woods or paths/trails.
  • It should be water proof but i got damp inside on the inside behind the glass, when I rode in some really rainy weather. I think this happen in 2015. I eventually noticed water on behind the glass, I can see some spots in there, after the water has dried out.I could also eventually push the glass in, so no wonder water came i when the glass was rattling in there, but this did not make the light fail, but it eventually dried out, but as I got better lights intended for my use, I don’t use this light any-more for riding. But I did not manage to get any video or picture of this. I don’t know if the rattle in the lens is due to me dropping the light or if it was like it when new or if it just developed over time, but I definitely dropped it several times after & probably before.

In my experience the rechargeable batteries get empty faster, so but the it’s expensive to buy new batteries every week. but in case you cna’t charge batteries it’s nice to have a flash light that works with normal batteries.

Bracket item No. 7799-PT

LedLenser Bracket item No. 7799-PT

pros:

  • tool-less easy to mount the clamp/mount
  • easy to take off the clamp/mount
  • clamp got turning joint so you can’t adjust the light for the right angle
LedLenser Bracket item No. 7799-PT

cons:

  • after more than 1 season the light began to slip forward when riding .
  • if you crash or get off the pedal and hit the light you will push the light out or almost out of the clamp,but during rides it does not slide out, or even just a lot of bumps, it will slide out.So first thing I tried was a a section of an inner tube,
2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300-headset- cockpit- Race Face Turbine stem

then I tried a reflector mount with a rubber strip, this keeps it secured.

Ledlenser light slidign off issues hack_0163

When my Xera light failed, I had to go back to using this light before I got proper light set up.

Verdict:

This is a ok flash light, but not a bike light, way too narrow and short beam, but hte 210M claim is true.

Buy a proper bike light, I later bought a Gemini Xera light which eventually failed, and was not good enough anyway, but then I got Exposure Six Pack & Diablo, which was a much better choice, but it was not cheap.

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Five Ten Freerider high Revised Long-term review

I have updated the review with pictures and video showing the wear and how fast they wore, and compared the worn and new shoes.

These shoes are clearly summer shoes, the shoes have venting holes on the top in the front & on the sides, which work great, I can feel the wind blowing through.

The outer sole is the same as on the ESP version, with the same trusted S1 rubber.

The Freerider is a quite breathable & lightweight shoe, they are higher over the ankle than the EPS version.
from the left: Impact high, Freerider, Freerider EPS
Freerider EPS & Freerider

They have differences but they have the same fit.

Five Ten Impact High Vs Five Ten freerider high_0086

The Impact has much higher mid sole.

from the left: Impact high, Freerider, Freerider EPS

Five Ten freerider high_0053
Five Ten freerider high_0042

Feel & comfort.

Five Ten Freerider Noir_5110

But the Freerider ESP is comfortable when running, the sole bends as much as running shoes upwards, I think the Freerider shoe is a well thought out shoe.

I can feel the surface I walk on & the pedals, without any discomfort, which gives me a good feel of what the bike is doing & this is a good thing for walking up things if you can’t ride over/on.

in the video below you can see how these shoes are when walking.

Five Ten freerider high_0091

August 2018 the shoes were worn out.

When these shoes wore out, I got new shoes of the same model.

Here you can see the new and worn out sole compared to the new sole.

Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0046
Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0041
Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0028

A Closer look at the wear at the ball of the foot:

Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear sole damage_4030
Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear sole damage_4033
Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear sole damage_4020crop
Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0049
Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear Rear damage_4006

Because my feet misalign, I pop them back in place using the pedal this is causing wear on the rear of the shoes. I might need to get ankle supports to keep my feet more stable.

Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear_4017edit
Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear_4036

The wear here is probably due to friction between the tongue & the sides of the shoe, and the the wear on the sides is probably a combo of the pads and the tongue.

Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear_4039

New shoe on the left and worn shoe on the right

Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0033

You can look at the video below and see the wear it had.

Pros:

  • The laces don’t wear out after months of use they are like new, unlike the 2015 Impact shoes.
  • Very easy to tie and untie, when tying the laces, i bend my legs down and tie the shoe, with few millimetre of room between the laces and the tongue, which gives perfect tightness,without Hurting , and when doing it this way I know it’s going to be right, if I do it this way, I can tuck the laces on to the side.
  • the shoelaces don’t untie if you tighten them properly.
  • Easy to take off, the tongue won’t restricts you from taking the shoes on and off fast.
  • The Tongue stays in place.
  • good fit, enough room for big toes.

Freerider ESP review

Verdict:

Recommended, but could be improved, like the durability of the sole, and spare soles would be nice, if you could glue new sole, and make the shoe stiff enough and in right shape again, but I am not sure how good it would be with just getting new rubber on.

But there are more options on the market now, which I haven’t tried yet. for example Unpararell & Ride Consepts but at the time Five Ten Freerider were the only choice for me, and still is Because I needed high top riding shoe, because I wanted to protect the rear of my foot ankles from pedal strikes and scraping my feet on things.

Other reviews: https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Flat-Pedal-Shoes,60/Five-Ten/Freerider-High,18618#product-reviews/3545/expand

One winter with with Exposure Lights Six Pack MK9

exposurelightsexposuresixpackmk9_20181129_092943Edit
IMG_20190110_182837edit
Cockpit changes_20181121_094321Edit
The light spun_20181114_190803

I had to bail when doing side hops down the stairs, the bars slammed on the ground, the light spun on impact.

I have posted on Instagram about this hopefully Exposure will fix this, they liked my post.

The bike was laying in the stairs, drive side down, but I rolled it to a flat area, and centred the light & tightened the bolt.
So far I don’t think this is a big deal. but under trail riding with no crashes it stays in place, but I time will tell.

Exposure light_20190310_180757

Nice cover keeps the input clean, very tight to get on. but in some instances I managed to get it loose, it might be due to me hitting it with my knee or something getting caught in it, because my knee hits the handlebar, the fork crown, the stem, I think it’s most likely because I hit it with my knee. but with no crashes it never came opened up.

Exposure Lights Six Pack MK9;
exposurelightsexposuresixpackmk9_20181129_093037Edit

Easy to read display, showing battery time, and mode.

one button to switch modes, and change settings.

it stays cool _20181129_093148edit-1gimp

exposurelightsexposuresixpackmk9 _20190110_182900edit
Exposure lights bar mount

The red thing under the mount is the quick release pull lever, which works great, it makes removal and install of the light easy, nice when you want to take the light with you or just take it off.

Exposure Lights bar mount
Exposure lights bar mount

after the winter ended I noticed the pin was out to the right, but I fixed this easily.

Side view_20190110_182855edit
Exposure Lights Six Pack MK9;

The mounting clamp works for up to 35mm handle bar diameter, for 31.8mm there are two plastic half spacers for top and bottom, you can use the thin spacer with the plastic spacers for smaller diameters, for 35mm there is a thin rubber band is secured with a 4 mm Hex bolt.

Even the packaging is great, comes in a nice case , it’s light weight. there are of course more extreme options, but those require huge battery packs, cooling fans: https://kit.com/mtbboy1993/extreme-bike-lights but exposure lights stay cool, they don’t overheat as easily, some lights will overheat in minutes, but Exposure can run for the whole ride without overheating, they stay cold most of the time, only noticed very slight heat from six pack once, I mean barely, which went away quick. so great performance. I rode in low plus and subzero to -5 or 6 I think.
my old Gemini Xera overheated in few minutes in -10C, basically useless light for mtb. at full strength indoors in room temperature when being still the light actually gets very warm, but during riding in the winter it never gets warm.

Photo Album: https://flic.kr/p/2bbyHdJ

Other review: I won’t do any light strength/distance tests as this has already been tested by others. videos won’t do it justice, but in 2018 & 2019 I have used these lights, and have several videos with them in use, but as I said video does not do it justice, it does not show well how wide the spread is and how good the light lights up the trail, but you can see from the videos that it’s great, but not how great.

here are some videos anyway:

https://off.road.cc/content/review/lights-front/use-exposure-six-pack-mk9-front-light-review-3067

Product page

This review will be updated in the future, for next winter if I have more things to add.

I got mine from:
https://www.sykkelkomponenter.no/products/exposure-six-pack-mk9-36004750-lumen-2019-lykt

but you can buy it it directly form exposure at their site.

This is my set up:
https://kit.com/mtbboy1993/my-light-setup-2018

Over a year with Shimano XTR M9000 Shifter

Since 6 months review in Jan 31 2018, I have taken a lot of pictures, I have improved this review a lot, but I might update it again. So far no video, I cna’t promise anything but I write about the struggles with mechanical shifters and rear dérailleurs with clutch.

XTR M9000 clearcoat damage_2475Edit

The barrel adjuster is nice easy to adjust the wire tension.

A look inside:

XTR SL M9000_0674
all parts laid out.

A closer look at the mechanism:

XTR SL M9000_0671

The back plate is made of plastic and is secured with tree thicker bolts and a tiny screw.

Shimano XTR M9000 trigger mehcanism_4776_4787
Shimano XTR M9000 trigger mehcanism_4776_4784
Shimano XTR M9000 trigger mehcanism_4776_4789
Shimano XTR M9000 trigger mehcanism_4776_4781
Shimano XTR M9000 trigger mehcanism_4776
XTR SL M9000_0713
XTR SL M9000_0708
XTR SL M9000_0711
XTR M9000 Shifter_4014

Here you can see the top of the mechanism, the hexagon keeps the shifter to rotate, the bolt goes through the hole. the white stuff you see is the original Factory grease.

XTR SL M9000_0653
XTR SL M9000_0679
assembled without bottom cover.
Naked XTR M9000_4020

Here you can see the hole the titanium bolt goes into.

Naked XTR M9000_4039
Naked XTR M9000_4026
XTR SL M9000_0654

A closer look at the mount:

XTR SL M9000_0692
The top cover & clamp
Naked XTR M9000_4023
you can see the clamp is narrow & have a smart design which does not compromise on stiffness or reliability, and keeps it light.
The mount, the big bolt goes through the big hole. The hexagon holds the Shifter to the clamp. but there is some rotational play. The small threaded hole secures the top cover.
XTR SL M9000_0705
XTR SL M9000_0699

The carbon down shift lever got scratched, but it was fine:

I have managed to scrape up the Carbon trigger, I don’t know how or when, but probably in one of the few crashes I had, probably on asphalt or rock, but it held up well without any cracks or other damage, even after a year after this scratch happen.

Removal of bottom cover requires moving it over the lever, be careful doing this so you don’t damage the cover

Triggers withstood winter use

The shifter triggers withstand winter use,the downshift lever is made of carbon, The up shift trigger seems to be made of aplastic carbon mix. Unlike some other plastic triggers shimano had to offer in the past, these don’t fail after few months of winter use,same goes for the xt version, but xt version has alloy downshift lever, and plastic trigger, but it can withstand winter use.

Where I live winter can be as – 10c midwinter, January, February, also alot of temperature changes up and down, and very varied temps and Co ditions on the start and end, but they withstood it all very well, zero cracks.

Not Perfect:

No position adjustment:,

SL-M9000-R & Shimano M6000 brakes_1546edit

Currently there does not seem to be a trigger shifter on the market that fits me, and have all the adjustments to make it fit me. also the fatigue I get from shifting makes Electronic systems interesting like Archer Components: https://www.archercomponents.com/

I have have tried the latest Sram shifters in my local sporting goods store, they too were not made for my hands, but at least they got a adjustment to the downshift trigger, to adjust the angle, but that’s not enough, but just by looking at it I could tell it would not work for me, also I can tell the other shifters I have seen won’t work well for me. I haven’t had the chance to try the latests 12 speed Shimano shifter yet, but I can see from reviews on youtube and pictures on in the magazines, it does not seem like they would fit me well.

Shifters has to have adjustments to make it fit big and small hands and all in between, having one size does not work well. this has bothered me for many years, but most things with contact points on bikes has been fixed, some even like they read my mind, but I am sure I am not the only one who wished for many of these things.

SL-M9000-R & Shimano M6000 brakes_1533Edit

The thumb will rub against the lock on clamp when shifting with the XTR M9000 shifter,  but this is not the Grips’s fault, I would like some more adjustment for the XTR shifters, but so far this has not been an issue yet, this of course leads to wear where the thumb rubs.

SL-M9000-R & Shimano M6000 brakes_1535edit

here you can see thumb at the down-shift lever.

Another thing is when using the up-shift trigger with my index finger, I have to move my finger in uncomfortable way, I have to reach for the trigger or move my hand to actuate the trigger, but when using my thumb it will rub, but if I place it where it would be natural to place it, it sits half way on the trigger.

Shimano M6000 brakes_1508Edit
SL-M9000-R & Shimano M6000 brakes_1541edit

But as this is a shifter it’s not wearing as fast as a rear dérailleur would, so it will last for ears, not much play has developed, if any, but I also have serviced it several times, to keep it running smoothly.

The lack of adjustment makes it impossible to set up properly even if this shifter fits you, with some brake s it might not work good.

WIth the new Shimano brakes(M7000, M8000, M9000), there is more room for clamping position.

Shimano M6000 brakes_1517edit

XTR Shifter & TRP Spyke lever is not a good combo,  with the Spyke lever I have less room to play with shifter placement.

I would like to change the position of the shifter, for a better fit but The XTR M9000 shifter does not allow me to do this by default, I haven’t looked at alternative mounting solutions much, but hte times I looked I did not find anything.

The shifter also has a firm click, it’s significantly different, from other Shimano shifters from the past, so you can feel the actuation better, but this adds to the fatigue I guess, but not as much as a rear dérailleur with a clutch on does. Which is actually abusing my thumb, to the point in the tip of my thumb like a needle, if I do too much shifting, it can take days before my thumb is back to normal, last time it took 10 days before the pain was gone, also I had to use a lot of hand cream, because the skin was wearing off at the tip of my thumb, of course having hand cream helps, but I forgot to apply it before riding, but I have been doing since that day again, but there is no cure for the pain I get when riding for 4 hours and shifting a lot, the rides after this ride I had to minimize my shifting to bare minimum, to avoid pain, only shifted when absolutely necessary, but if riding in a place that requires a lot of shifting, like I do at & to Skansehytta in Askim, and ride for 4 hours it’s I will get pain for sure, but then rest of my body will be tired too, if I ride fast or do a lot of techy stuff., but it’s always the thumb that fatigues first, even with rides I do less with my whole body as long as I have to shift a lot I get pain, so it can happen on even shorter rides. So mechanical trigger shifter especially with activated clutch on the rear dérailleur is not great for me, to abusive.even with days or weeks of using hand cream and my skin is being normal, after several hours, my skin gets some wear, and pain, on not as long rides, even the 1 or 2 h rides, but for the longer rides I get a longer lasting and more painful experience.

Both triggers have play, the play has been present in all Shimano shifters I have used or tried.

The clamp is well engineered, for lightweight, but the connection between the mount & the shifter is flawed, there is slight rotational play between the mount and the shifter.

I have used it the XTR m9000 shifter with the Box One first generation rear derailleur, but the spring is a lot firmer than the spring on Shimano XT M8000 rear derailleur, so this makes it harder to downshift, more fatiguing, but even with the Shimano XT M8000 rear derailleur shifting is quite fatiguing, but that’s the negative part of a mechanical shifting rear derailleur.

Issues with too bolts getting damaged too easily:

I have experienced too soft bolts on several drivetrain components, shifters, rear dérailleurs, So this was not a surprise.

The bolt holding the shifter to the clamp was not tight enough when I checked it, so I unscrewed it applied Loctite 243 and screwed it back in, the bolt got damaged some, the stronger bolt should have been used, this is disappointing, but the bolt is supposed to be titanium, but there is too much wiggle room, which results in damage, even with a hex hey or bit that has great tolerances, it still will be bad, I have experienced this problem with several bolts from shimano, they all suffered from this, but not all have gotten as damaged yet, but they probably will eventually, you should insert tool and turn and not have wiggle room, but I can move the hex bit or key in evry direction, this is not something most people aspect from a high-end component, But I do, sadly there I see too many shortcuts in the bike industry.

Tesa anti slip tape on XTR M9000 shifter

I have tested several positions, and none of them worked well for me. but I settled on this one, but it will not be perfect.

For better grip I installed Tesa Anti Slip tape, on all controls, including the shifter, this has gave a much more secure shifting experience. of course there are other options, I just got this tape from one of my local hardware stores.

https://www.tesa.com/en/consumer/tesa-anti-slip-tape.html

The difference in feel between XT & XTR:

First things I noticed compared to the Xt m8000 was the different feel, which is difficult to explain, but it’s different.

Shimano please make mounts and other components compatible with cheaper shifters, for example, the clamps, covers, and so on.

as you can see that xt clamp is overbuilt, unless they use different type of material, that requires it, though the rest of the shifter is not.

but it would be nice if there was just on shifter with several versions instead of the making it different just to be different and not compatible.

Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmbhLWey

5 Years Review: 2014 Trek Fuel EX7 29er

I revised it this review many times, so here it is 5 years review.

I  needed a full suspension bike, at minimum 120 mm travel, I got the best bike, I could as fast as I could.but I knew I might need to change few things, but I test rode the bike around the store, but that was not good enough test, but at the time it was the best bike I could get fast & easy.

My Fuel EX at Askim Museum
bike march 2019
how the bike looked like may 2018

It was a lot better to ride than the 2010 Trek 6300.

This is my first full suspension bike, and my first 29er, I have never ridden other full suspension bikes, so can’t compare it to others.

Don’t let others decide for you if 29er is the right choice for you. The ride quality not only depends on the bike but the person sitting on it and the correct size.

The first rides:

I noticed the bike was also easier to ride, the steering was easier, I also noticed the bike is more stable than my 6300, pulling wheelies was easier to control,  the front was heavier so it helped to make wheelies more stable.

I think this bike is easy to ride, much better compared to my 6300(100mm stem & 720 bars) even its heavier it goes much faster, no matter if its downhill steep up hills, even doing a wheelie.

The bike does not accelerate as fast as a 26er would do, but it maintains the speed longer, but the bike is fast & stable in corners.

Technical climbs is not an issue with this bike, but with most trail bikes there is not.

Handling & geometry

The steering and handling was a huge improvement going from Trek 6300 with very steep head angle, but I want even more stable steering & handling bike.

The Fuel EX struggles at tight switchback climbs, the steering is not stable enough,  it’s easy to ”lock” the front wheel, it requires very precise mode movement, good balance to be able to tun and go up smoothly.
also at straight climbs the is a struggle, you have to shift the upper body position to get grip, it’s a balancing act,
I can climb most of the steep climbs on my local trails, but does not mean the bike is doing a great job, it could be better.
there are something about the geometry that are not to my liking: the reach is too short, the wheelbase short, the bike is very easy too wheelie, and manual, it’s very agile, and ”flickable” as reviewers wants to call it, but most bikes will be for me, unless they are a tandem.

The video below  by Pole, does a good job at explaining & showing the issue with the geometry old bikes have and even some current bikes, it’s the same issue I got, on the Trek 6300 the problem was very noticeable, and steering was unstable, but the Fuel ex, was much more stable, but on tight switchbacks and doing precise trails moves I really notice the flaw.

I got a Dropper post

the lack of dropper post hides the capabilities of this bike.

with a dropper post, I can get my body in the correct position for going downhill.

Even the dropper post adds more weight, it gets you in the correct pedalling position when its up, and for technical sections, you just lower it, and the capabilities of the bike increases, the dropper post made me alto faster in descents and on technical climbs.

The frame supports both internal and external dropper post routing.

The cable should go alongside the brake hose, For the Race Face Turbine 440mm 150mmdrop dropper post for my 17.5/18.5 frame.

if you use 1x drivetrain, you can use the front dérailleur routing for the external dropper post.

My setup for summer 2018:

Worked ok, for me I am a bit more than I am somewhere close to 75 kg with gear on. So I ride with 210 in the shock and 110 psi in the fork, 5-6 clicks rebound both front and rear, which work pretty well for me, I am somewhere close between 70 & 80kg kg with gear on I guess.

I installed Cush Core which greatly improved the ride:
Installation of Cush Core tyre inserts greatly improved the ride comfort, the tyres where tracking well I noticed I was faster, I dropped the air pressure for suspension by 20psi, and 4psi tyre pressure.

The bike is 13,600 Grams(I did not measure it) in size 18,5 so it could be too heavy for you if you really need a light bike, but for me, it’s not that heavy I can ride pretty fast with it anyway, in fact, it’s a huge upgrade from my 26 inches 6300.

after 2 seasons the original bearing in the chainstay worn out,(by worn out I mean they did not turn smoothly and they made noise even when I repacked them with grease, but they had no noticeable play in them) so I had to change them,So I did,but even though I have had repacked them with grease once, I think I should have done it sooner, but I  replaced the original bearings with Enduro bearings, and I regularly maintained them so they lasted alto longer.I have been riding with the second bike in -11 degrees, and on wet rainy days, and all kinds of weather, I had to repack the bearings after few weeks of winter riding, but the bearings were running smooth, So I guess I will just have to check the bearings more often.

PROS:

handlebar got stripes to help you with brake and gear lever alignment.

Shimano Deore SL-M610 Shifter triggers give smooth and very easy to shift, a lot better than the 2010 Deore, more ergonomic than the past model like the 2010 from my 6300 bike, but they don’t fit me well, and lack necessary adjustments to fit me.

  • holes for internal cable routing for a dropper post
  • external top tube routing support for shock remote or a mechanical dropper post.
  • the bike is stable in the descend and climb
  • the frame got SCG-05 chain guide mount
  • decent clearance for my feet and legs

CONS:

  • I experienced some knocking, clicking sound from the spokes grinding, in turns or when the temperature was way over 20 deg Celsius, but upgrading to a proper wheel set fixed the issue.
  • The headset bearings failed after few months:
  • Top bearings were the first to fail. This is from a bike rode few months. (bike Nr1) I was doing headset bearing service, and there was a lot of crushed metal in the grease, all over. the rest snapped when I touched it. Some bearing balls fell out when I took the bearings out of the cup, the other is crushed or they were never there in the first place, but I don’t know. The bearings on the other bike lasted for longer, but they wore out quite fast, But I switched to Cane Creek bearings, the type with the seal on top and bottom, they lasted for much longer.
    • the rims had alloy machining residue, on the inside of the rim, it came out of the spoke holes.
    • bad selection of components
    • front resin brake pads got worn out in ca. 2 months, I upgraded to Shimano J02A IceTech, but this worn out the Resin only rotors, which wore out the rotors in about 4 months, I had to upgrade, so I went for Hope Tech Floating rotors, which was a great improvement.
    • The suspension:

      do not have every adjustment there is, but the CTD (climb, trail, descend), But I need more adjustment.

    • Shock & fork compression goes out of adjustment, if you ride fast down a hill and over kerbs, down technical trails, or riding fast over technical trails, this has happened quite often, I had to use zip ties to lock the dial on the for and shock, this also happens on Fit grip dial, which I have got on both the bikes because it got replaced under warranty on service due to the stock damper failing, but what happen exactly I don’t know I did not even notice a difference.
    • Saddle: Bontrager Evoke 2 choice is not no great.
      19697882404_e5dc9fd34c_b


Pros:

  • The saddle grips well.
  • it flexes and got cushioning
  • I don’t feel the rail inserts
  • the foam cushioning does not work that well, my weight compress it all the way down(  I am somewhere between 70 and 80 KG + gear)
  • I can feel folded synthetic leather where the fabric and the synthetic leather is stitched
  • the saddle is not so comfortable as it should be, I can feel the sides of the saddle.(I notice it if I use the climb mode on the rear shock)

I can feel the bump where the fabric and pleather is, I can feel the side of the saddle

Bontrager Evoke 2 Lime green

The screws on the seat post are too long for mounting lower saddles with shorter rails, the Bontrager saddle got the rails higher s other is more space between the saddle and the screws.if you are using a carbon saddle with higher rail profile, instead of round rails, it’s nice to have long screws, but not that if you plan to upgrade saddle to a lower profile saddle like I did, you might need to cut the screws. But I upgraded to Fabric Scoop Shallow Race, which is more comfortable for me, but the screws on the seat post hit the plastic underneath the saddle, so I had to replace them, but later I upgraded to dropper post so the issue was gone anyway.

Drivetrain

the 10 spd 11-36 x3: I don’t need the 42 tooth ring at the front where I live,  but if you have long roads or steep 40 degrees downhill(where you can run out of gears with 36T) its nice with a 42T ring. I have upgraded to 11-46T cassette and 36T Race Face Narrow Wide ring, I will test it out without chain-guide.

You can watch  Seth’s Bike Hacks review to see how the narrow wide chaining performs

  • The rear bolts on the the rocker link (Evo Link) are getting loose very fast, it takes few weeks for them to get loose, but the other bolts stay tight, I think this is caused by the flex in the chain stay and down tube, which then flexes the chain stay so the bolts get loose.

The Shimano Deore BL-M615 brake is awful as they flex causing the threads for the Torx screws to fail. On one the main bike/the bike with hamburger bell) the threads on the rear/right master cylinder failed, so the brake was leaking fluid, and NO I did not over tighten the Torx screws, first I tough the brake just needed a bleed, so I bled them, so there was no air but the next day I lost a lot of braking powers, there was air in the master cylinder, and oil was leaning,I checked the screws they were just spinning endlessly, I opened up the master cylinder and I saw the threads were polished away, I don’t thin kit was caused by a crash, at least not this particular brake, because I have never hit the brakes in a crash with this master cylinder.

The brake felt nice and worked for a short while, but they are just too weak.

  • one of the frames had uneven welding for the zip ties the gap was too small for the big zip ties on the upper cable guide on the down tube,.I could use bit zip tie all over but the one spot.
The first months the bolts did not show any signs of wear, after a lot of maintenance work, but after that, they showed signs of wear and got very worn, the hex slot measured at 40.70mm.

<p>they have tight tolerances, so the park tool Allen/Hex bits & keys fit in tight, but of course, bolts wear out, but these bolts wore out quite fast in my opinion, few bearing services and they were worn out.

from the left, the original worn out bolt & to the right the replacement bolt, which does not have the Hex all the way through, but it starts from the middle.

I replaced the bolts in the rear of the Evo link

This bolt rounded off very easily, I barely turned the Allen key it just shredded the bolt.
I had to make the hole a bit bigger to remove the already damaged material, then I hammered a bigger Torx bit into the bolt as hard as I could, until I felt it sat firmly in, I then carefully took it out and used Torx key to remove the bolt.

Noticeably flexible chain stays & seat stays fast wearing chainstay & rocker link Which are causing many issues

I think the damage in the Evo link is caused by the flex in the frame, forcing the shock into the Evo link. the Evo link is also quite stiff, but not everything on the frame is so lack of stiffness in other palaces makes this frame horrible.I noticed the bike was frame & the wheels were too flexible the first months I rode the bike, but when leaning the bike against something with rear wheel only I could see it flex, I upgraded to stiffer wheels, which greatly improved the almost constant tyre rub, upgraded cranks which improved the ride greatly, but this also affected the flex in the frame, which already was horrible, but I needed stronger & stiffer cranks, so that’s where the Turbine & Atlas came in.

Frame tyre rub_3608

The flexes in the chain stay is causing the chain stay to rub into the tyre is causing the inner tube I wrapped the chain stay to tear the rubber part sticks out and rubs against the tyre. of course the wheel flexes some too, but both combined is not great, but The hope wheels are stiff, but will flex some when pushed hard, but in my case it’s mostly the frame, but with original wheels both the wheels and frame set were an issue.

  • Mis-aligned/pushed out/dislocated bearings:

The issues were worse over time, so in October 2017 it got to the point where I had to press in the bearings in the Evo link after every ride, even riding on pavement without any aggressive moves, or hard technical trails,  what did it that day was just riding on a bike path, the rear end felt awkward, I could feel it happening, eventually I heard squeaking, which was the seat stay rubbing against the Evo Link.

This picture shows the bearings dislocated.
So I had to press the back in place, in this picture they’re pressed in.
This is due to the bearings moving due to too flexible 2014 Trek Fuel Ex 7 29er frame

damaged paint due to slipping bearing, the left bearings were almost ruined, it was quite rough, so I installed new bearings.

There you can see the bearing is so far out that the arms were girding.
  • Bent rear dérailleur hanger caused by flex in the bb area, causing the hanger to bend under load because the chain line changes too. Such extreme, and twisting the chain, this is why I am sure the time I bent a KMC x 11 silver, and crushed the threads in the axle on the Shimano m8000 rear dérailleur cage, was caused by the flex in the frame. I have had to true the hanger after almost every long ride the past months, this is getting very annoying.
  •  

  • The bent cassette cogs happen on several cassettes I had to use a flat head screwdriver to get the cogs straight.

A Xt m8000 cassette was also bent due to the flex in the frame, which happens very often in September & October 2017

In September-October 2017 the chain wear got significantly worse. This is basically a new chain which will soon wear out, I did not decrease it, I just rode few times in a week, and did few minutes of MTB, I was sick so I could not do much riding because I was sick, but this is a new record in chain wear, the hanger had a significant bend, at least between 10-20 degrees.
The bike was always flexible, I felt it was too flexible for the first months I rode it, I had to upgrade many components, stiffer wheels with proper spoke nipples & hubs, stiffer cranks, wider bars, better drivetrain, but the frame was too flexible but the summer of 2017 I had so many problems with the drivetrain & bearings, that its really annoying.
  • I would not recommend using tyres wider than 2.3, the seat stay & chain stay are too close for bigger tyres.
Horrible Tyre clearance_3998
Non driveside clearance_4007

  • SHIMANO RT56 RESIN ONLY rotors, After few months of use with Metal pads I wore out the rotors, the holes are rounded off, and I lost a lot of bite.

Noticeable flex in the Shimano Deore M552 crank arms, the cranks were way too flexible for me, the cranks failed on both of the bikes, without any abuse, so faulty crank arms, or they are just too weak for a track stand, flexy cranks like this should not be on a trail bike.

  •  
  • like any suspension bike, there is some pedal-bob, but it’s minimal, I get about 10% of the travel.
  • no chain guide, the chain fell off more than 10 times the 2015 season, when jumping and riding ruff places hard, I jumped from 3 steps of stairs and if fell off)
  • Awful housing routing, the housing gets kinked in a twisted S shape, causing fast wear of wire coating wear & housing.
77 Designz guide - Housing rubbing eliminated_5077
Internal cable rou_5082
  • (as you can see the paint got stripped off by the chain)
  • one Allen bolt, on the EVO link, was overtightened from the factory, but I managed to unscrew it by using warm water and Allen key in the freezer for few minutes & the big bolt on the chain stay and seat tube fell off, but the bike shop replaced it.
  • chain fall off when jumping sometimes, my plan is to get 11 speed and get a chain guide.
  • Tyres: Bontrager XR3 Expert, is not a very lasting tyre, because of the soft rubber, l the rear tyre lasted me few weeks, so I upgraded the rear with SE4 Team Issue tyres, which has last me to the winter came.
  • the weight is 13,6 on 18,5(virtual)(real 17.5)
  • the Fox 32 has flex/twisting, from side to side, I am about 75 kg, There is noticeable twisting in the fork when riding over huge roots fast, or through potholes, or front wheel pivot, this is quite common for 32 mm stanchion forks, my Rock Shox Tora sl 2010, Marzocchi Corsa 2012, the flex is a lot less than these forks, but when the wheel is on it can be flexed to about the same, but when wheel is off the fox 32 Evo is clearly stiffer.
  • no dropper post.
  • Bontrager RL(Race Lite) lock on grips: got good grip, but they are too hard a or me and give no dampening.
    19525248243_5d21846fca_b
  • 3 chainrings for a trail bike is not optimal, the problem is over big roots or obstacles you can hit it some time times, and as bigger the chainring is as more chance there is for you to crash or damage the ring.
  • The chain-stay protector does not work well, the chain will hit the zip-ties, and they will snap so the protector will be loose and will scratch the paint,and because it does not cover the whole chain-stay the inside of the chain stay will get hit by the chain, I replaced the protector with an old inner-tube instead.
  • chain slap on the Front Dérailleur: which crapes of the pant and make visible scrapes on the puller arm.
chain slap 2014 Shimano SLX FD-M671A
chain slap 2014 Shimano SLX FD-M671A --
Chain slap scratches

have not received any answer why this happens or what could cause it, I will update you on that since I do

2014 Trek fuel ex 7-upgraded to 1x11 11-42Tx36T Race Face Narrow Wide

This is how the crank looked like before it eventually failed.

  • like any suspension bike, there is some pedal-bob, but it’s minimal, I get about 10% of the travel.
  • no chain guide, the chain fell off more than 10 times the 2015 season, when jumping and riding ruff places hard, I jumped from 3 steps of stairs and if fell off)
  •  
  • Awful housing routing, the housing gets kinked in a twisted S shape, causing premature wire coating wear & housing wear.
  • (as you can see the paint got stripped off by the chain)
  • one Allen bolt, on the EVO link, was overtightened from the factory, but I managed to unscrew it by using warm water and Allen key in the freezer for few minutes & the big bolt on the chain stay and seat tube fell off, but the bike shop replaced it.
  • chain fall off when jumping sometimes, my plan is to get 11 speed and get a chain guide.
  • Tyres: Bontrager XR3 Expert, is not a very lasting tyre, because of the soft rubber, l the rear tyre lasted me few weeks, so I upgraded the rear with SE4 Team Issue tyres, which has last me to the winter came.
  • the weight is 13,6 on 18,5(virtual)(real 17.5)
  • the Fox 32 has flex/twisting, from side to side, I am about 75 kg, There is noticeable twisting in the fork when riding over huge roots fast, or through potholes, or front wheel pivot, this is quite common for 32 mm stanchion forks, my Rock Shox Tora sl 2010, Marzocchi Corsa 2012, the flex is a lot less than these forks, but when the wheel is on it can be flexed to about the same, but when wheel is off the fox 32 Evo is clearly stiffer.
  • no dropper post.
  • Bontrager RL(Race Lite) lock on grips: they are way too hard for me, but got good grip, but they are too hard for me and give no dampening, so I replaced them with ESI Extra Chunky green grips in is a pretty good match.
    19525248243_5d21846fca_b
  • 3 chainrings for a trail bike is not optimal, the problem is over big roots or obstacles you can hit it some time times, and as bigger the chainring is as more chance there is for you to crash or damage the ring.
  • The chain-stay protector does not work well, the chain will hit the zip-ties, and they will snap so the protector will be loose and will scratch the paint,and because it does not cover the whole chain-stay the inside of the chainstay will get hit by the chain, I replaced the protector with a old inner-tube instead.
I have not received any answer why this happens or what could cause it, I will update you on that since I do

http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/05/22/first-look-2014-trek-fuel-ex-29er-weights-details-ride-impressions/

  • Other reviews:
  • http://reviews.mtbr.com/review-trek-fuel-ex-7-29
  • http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/05/22/first-look-2014-trek-fuel-ex-29er-weights-details-ride-impressions/

    While working on my bike  I noticed  the frame protection I put on a while back, looked awkward, it looked like there was a dent in the frame,  So I  I took a closer look and indeed there was a dent

    When I took the fork off to send it for service, I took pictures of it. But there was never an impact on the frame, to make such dent in the frame by impacting it I would have to land on a sharp object,  in that exact spot, which I didn’t. I of course never rode with the bearing outside of the frame with loose fork.

    After replaced Evo Link & chainstay:

    The bearings in that came with the frame parts were crunchy, they had little grease, I had to grease them.

    After I had replaced the chainstay and rocker link, the bearing dislocation issues were gone, for a while at least, but the bolts back in the rocker link kept loosening up, which I heard and read about, apparently loose bolts are still an issue on the newer bikes.
    The bent cassette cogs were still happening, but the premature chain wear was gone, the chain wore at the normal rate.
    The gear hanger was getting out of true, but nowhere near as bad as when the worn out chainstay was there.

    Worn crownrace December 17, 2017

    December 2017 I noticed wear on the crown race on bike nr1:
    https://flic.kr/s/aHsmaUB1Xb

    (Click on image to see all pictures in The album)

    I got the forks back fro service, but I put on the fork that the less worn crown race, but after few weeks it also showed signs of wear.

    I also noticed the bearings sit skewed in the head tube, unless it’s the head tube that is skewed.

    there was also very noticeable signs of wear on the bearings:

    very noticeable scratches.
    The forks have been serviced by Ccyklon and the CSU has been replaced to the 2018 model.

    I have swapped the fork with the most wear on the crown race in March.

    February 2018 update on the frame issues:

    The seat stay becomes bent.

    Damage to the new chainstay:

    Just showing that there is a gap using a pick.

    I think this is caused by the axle unthreading and the bearing is getting pushed out as I ride.

    I had to install the seat stay from the other frame.

    In this period did not do any technical trail riding, but I rode some skitracks and rodeo n pavement, rode some stairs few times, did some bunny hops some wheelies, but nothing out of the ordinary, a trail frame should take this, but this frame, can barely take any commuting.

    the issues with the hanger continued:

    some more recent content from 2018 & 2019

    The hanger that cracked:

    ABP hanger_4824edit
    ABP hanger_4807Edit

    I checked the cassette the cogs were twisted and bent as were the teeth, I swapped cassette, There was also significant play in the Box One RD which I noticed a while, but it was worse, it definitely messed up the shifting. I suspected that there was something wrong with the hanger, with the park tool hanger tool it looked to be straight but after several checks it was out of true, I eventually heard a cracking sound, I took the hanger off there was a long crack, no wonder the gearing was messed up, So I suspect it failed on the last ride to Skansehytta, and the truing did not work due to there already being a crack. the barely used RD worked fine with that cassette, but that cassette is showing wear on the smallest cog so I could not continue to use the smallest cog, but I am quite sure this will happen over again.

    After a while the bolt was wearing a lot.

    Really worn bolt_4041
    Too close_3926

    I have tools to do the job, so it’s easy to do, but annoying having to do this after several days of riding or for example a 4 hour ride up to Skansehytta and on the trails there and back.

    Removal of bearing, and then I clean the rocker link, so I don’t get creacking from debris.

    Bearing removal w/ RRP tool _0676

    These two pictures showing the tool are from April 2018

    and pressing the bearings in.

    Bearing install_1294edit


    Too close_3919
    Too close_3916

    This is not result of a impact or crash. My Rear dérailleur hanger bent on the ride, I noticed the shifting was messed up, I could left & heard it happen at the steep climb at Holterveien, horrible noise, the shifting was not working properly, and I had to stop and bend it back enough using my hands to get it to a point where I could continue riding it, and I continued riding, but when I riding back down at Holterveien. Ridelog: https://www.trailforks.com/ridelog/view/3184376/

    Bent hanger - Skansehytta ride_5332
    Bent hanger - Skansehytta ride_5335
    almost touching_5845
    almost touching_5849
    SunRace CS-MX8 & ABP_5065

    June 9, 2018 The bearings got pushed out at Skansehytta, here are the videos from this day:
    h

    Also here is the Ridelog:
    https://www.trailforks.com/ridelog/view/3184376/

    ABP_5070

    The hanger that racked:

    and I could easily snap off, so it could easily snap during a ride, or on a light impact, so I had to swap it.

    2014 Fuel EX Snapped Hange_20181205_115356Edit
    2014 Fuel EX Snapped Hanger_20181205_115342Edit

    this hanger had cracked, and I could move it, I was pretty sure it would fail, I used the DAG2 tool It snapped fast, it might have snapped on a ride, if it did that it could have resulted in a crash, but I installed my last spare hanger.

    hanger failure_20181205_094941Edit
    hanger failure_20181205_095028Edit
    hanger failure_20181205_094919edit
    hanger failure_20181205_094913edit
    hanger failure_20181205_093353Edit

    The last hanger I had for 12×142 bent horribly, it bent many times, but hte last time it bent a a lot more, and when trying to true it it snapped off easily.

    Bent ABP Rd hanger
    Bent ABP hanger 2014 Fuel EX 29er
    Bent Trek ABP 301805 142X12mm hanger _20190306_084828
    IMG_20190319_165435

    This is how the hanger looked like after snapping it with the DAG 2.2 tool.

    IMG_20190319_165505

    I suspected it would snap when I tried to true it, it was just too abused by the bike very bent the Rear dérailleur was pointing out to the front.

    I had hangers crack at the same spot there too, so this would eventually snap anyway. I installed the original think qr axle drop outs. only got one spare now.

    ABP Convert QR drop outs & Hope Pro4 QR adapters
    Frameset_2768c

    Upgrades I did:

    https://kit.com/mtbboy1993/2018-upgraded-2014-trek-fuel-ex-7-black-lime-green

    how the bike looked like may 2018
    • ESI Extra Chunky green grips
    • Fabric Scoop Shallow Race saddle
      26231866835_27c15ed217_b
    • First I upgraded to StraightlineDeFacto pedals, But later I switched to Pedalling Catalyst pedals, which improved my riding greatly.
    • Shimano XT M8000 Shadow+ GS(medium cage) Rear Derailleur
    • Shimano XT M8000 11-46 cassette
    • Hope bolt seat post clamp, as a quick release clamp just ads weight and is not necessary for me, it also looks great.
      I discovered the dropper post was horrible, But I need a dropper post, I eventually installed a E thirteen TRS Plus dropper post which was more reliable, but had its flaws.
    • Race Face Narrow Wide chainring 36T 104mm Later I switched to oval which was very beneficial to me.
    • BB:Race Face CINCH 41 x 92 x 30mm BB92 (PRESS FIT) which turned out to be junk.
    • Maxxis High Roller 2 2.3
    • Bottom bracket & Cranks:
    • Crank: Race Face Turbine Cinch 30mm axle 175mm, are noticeably stiffer, but on one of the bikes I switched to Atlas cranks, which were even stiffer.
    • 24173105230_3bcbca165c_c
    • the pressfit Shimano BB, is hard to remove or service without destroying it, but I had  to switch to BB30 press-fit,  I could have chosen 24 cranks,  I But I wanted 30mm spindle, direct chainring, So I went for Race Face Turbine cranks, but by doing So I had to switch the Shimano BB with to 30mmPressfit BB, So I went with the Race Face BB30, but  unlike the Shimano bb the race face BB has the has the bearings pressed directly in the BB shell, and has no plastic insert on the inner ring in the on the bearing, so the Shimano BB will not wear the spindle, but as the RaceFace has not, there will eventually be wear on the axle, but So far I have not seen any visible wear, I like how Chris King does it, the bearing play can be fine-tuned, adapters are used, the adapters keep the spindles from wearing & easily switch to other spindles/cranksets, the bearings are better sealed from contaminants and is easy to repack/regrease with special tool.  So that is what I wish for my next trail bike. So this is why I went for Chris King Threadfit BB for the 6300, I have seen a lot about Praxis BB lately, which I will look into further.
    • After upgrading to the much stiffer Race Face Turbine Cranks.
    • with the flexy cranks, which felt horrible, the race face cranks were much more durable,stiffer, and I the flex in that the frame, is flexing on the right side in the chain stay when turning /leaning the bike to the left, and it hits the tyre 2.3 tyre, I have a tube wrapped around the chain stay, It’s  between 1-2 mm. So by upgrading to the stiffer cranks instead of the cranks flexing the chain stay is flexing, so the flex in the frame is more significantly more noticeable with a stiffer crank. But riding while seated on asphalt the flex is not as noticeable.
    This is how the Race Face BB30 looks like inside the bike. But I wish it had better protection against wet weather.

    Sometime in 2016 I uninstalled the bottom bracket, I was about to install the new BB when I noticed, there was crushed alloy there.

    https://static.bike24.com/i/p/5/1/154515_00_c.jpg
    Trek ABP Convert Dropout Set 12x142mm – 427343

    Renthal Apex 35 50mm stem

  • RevGrips

  • M6000 brakes which replaced the M615 under warranty, due to failure.
  • Verdict/Conclusion:

    The bike is horrible.

    • not good enough for me, due to the flaws.
    • I need a much stiffer & stronger frame & stiffer fork would be nice.
    • replacing the tyre is the one of the first things you have I had to do.
    • If you ride very steep downhills a, A dropper post will definitely be the next upgrade.
    • the bad choices of components, and chainstay & seat stay, is Disappointing, the must be some flex in a frame or it will snap, but this is too much in one place.
    • The bike rides well, very stable no matter how I rode it,but ,trek did not do a good job on selecting all the components, the drive train is outdated, The wheels are too flexible and get out of true way too easily, triple chainrings is outdated, and the crank arms have too much flex. In my opinion, most riders do not need triple chainring setup, wider range cassette just replaces the Front RD so there is no point in having a front Rd.
    • Bad selection of components and too flexible frame make this a bad choice.
    • A trail bike should handle major abuse, a proper bicycle should handle an average weight rider to a heavier muscular or slightly overweight rider,  this bike can clearly not,  I am 182 and weight weighed about 74kg with gear on last time I weigh my self, but I am sure I ma heavier due to more muscle mass & heavier gear.
    • a trail bike should handle a rider commuting or sprinting, which this bike does not, the increasing issues might be to fatigue, so basically, the frame wearing out, and becoming more & more flexible.
    • Trek has been contacted: I translated it to English: ”The bearing in the Closed Convert link at the rear wheel has moved out of the chainstay. This happens when the chain has expanded, so the bearing is no longer sit securely. This can also contribute to the wheel rubbing the frame.” Even If this is the case, there is down tube Flex so much it takes the chain stays with it, so it will still be too flexible, So I basically need the whole frame that is much stiffer & stronger, that can withstand my weight, but of course frames eventually wear out, but this bike is bout 3 years.
    • Flickr album: 2014 Trek fuel ex 7- Issues

    https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?item=9258666

    Original Spec: http://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Trek/Fuel-EX-7-29,12595

    THe 2018 bikes look like this:

    they increased the travel by 10mm, so its 130mm.

    https://flic.kr/s/aHsmgAaHec

    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 5  EVO link_1732edit

    the newer bikes have beefier chain stays, seat stays, the shapes are mroe of a rectangle shape, not oval like on 2014

    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 5_1818edit
    also the cable routing at chain stay has improved, but they bikes come with Race Face bottom bracket so it won’t last long, they have a bad reputation, I have also experienced the horrendous performance from Race face BB.

    they changed the name of the wheels, but I don’t know if they are junk as the wheels on my bike, but it would not surprise me, if it’s just the same weak alloy spoke nipples.
    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 5 EvoLink_1813Edit
    The same seat post clamp, but you can clearly see they have stiffened up the swing arm and rocker link.

    straight down tube, so they have knock block which many hate, but for some it’s not a problem, but some people do more technical riding, and turn the bar a lot, I haven’t tried the newer bikes.

    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 5_1805Edit
    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 9_1869Edit

    revised Short term review: Park Tool OM-1 Bench top Overhaul Mat

    Workshop_0269

    Originally posted 15 may 2017, but updated with pictures and improved text.

    Workshop_0269

    Pros:

    • The knobs in the mat will keep small parts from rolling off.
    • It sticks to my painted kitchen table/dinner table well.

    Cons:

    • Reacts to direct sunlight / heat it bends upwards
    PArktool workbench mat_20190112_133235edit

    Keep it away from sunlight!!!, the mat bent upwards, and made it almost useless, to fix this you have to put your heaviest tools on it and let it lay in the sunlight for a long time.
    For some reason, there was red discolouration in the white park tool logo.

    I noticed something similar on my 100% Race Craft goggles,the same red color on my on the top on the 100% logo, as I have a the helmet is white there and has no red in it there should not be any color transfer, I don’t know why this happen.

    Verdict:

    I have not tried other mats, but So far I like this one, But keep it away from the direct sunlight.

    https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=47986;menu=1000,185,191;mid=0;pgc=0;page=27

    e*thirteen TRS+ Seatpost Short-term review

    I have used this dropper post for few months, but I was feeling horrible most of January & February so did not put it to as much use as I hoped for, but also used it some in January, and trough march.

    IMG_20181121_094052Edit

    The remote version 17J V10SS :

    For better clearance for the cable for dropper post I flipped  Timber Bell.

    Some shots before installing housing and wire

    e thirteen TRS+ Seatpost_20181120_113253
    e thirteen TRS+ Seatpost_20181120_113300

    Here it is with the Grip Tape it comes with:

    e thirteen TRS+ Seatpost_20181120_113311

    The 17J V10SS remote on the bike

    e13 Dropper post remote 17J V10SS;
    With Tesa anti slip / grip tape installed.
    Timber Bell & Ethirteen Dropper post remove 17J V10SS
    Cockpit changes_20181121_094154Edit

    The remote came with grip tape already installed but I installed rougher grip tape, the grip tape that came with it showed slight signs of wear, but I prefer the rougher grip tape.
     

    E Thirteen dropepr post remote 17J V10SS
    e13 Dropper post remote 17J V10SS;
    IMG_20190219_142011crop


    e thirteen TRS+ Seatpost_20181120_113323
    The remote is fastened with a Torx bolt

    Cons:

    • After few weeks of riding the stanchion got a slight discolouration about a cm below the top it is where when the it’s fully down, it’s I side the collar, I am not sure why this happen, but it’s barely visible, and try to get it to show on photo.

    • You have to have weight on the middle to drop it, but not a problem, if done like that it drops smoothly, it’s faster than Turbine dropper, so light feel drop, this is not surprising at all nor is this a major flaw.
    • The slot for the brass key holding the head straight is too wide so the head rotates few degrees, this could be felt when riding, especially if doing wheelies There is also up & down play, forward backward rocking play, so a lot more play than the Turbine, which only had side to side rotational play.
    • The top of the stanchion gets very grease after a long ride with dropping the saddle a lot, a lot of up and down, combined with rocking play back and forth.
    Temperatures changes and bolts
    • Clamp head saddle rail bolts can get loose, and might undo enough for the saddle to slip back, I think it’s due to temperatures changes & the loads, this is what happens when you take the bike out from the warm home out and ride for few minutes in subzero temps, this has happen with the Bontrager rigid post too, also the Race Face Turbine post.

    When I got home I had to fix this, and yes I had on Loctite 243, but this eventually happens anyway, Loctite eventually needs reapplying.
    So a multi tool is a must, even if everything on the bike has been checked, i had to do this every time, but of course how much it loosened varied.

    But I haven’t had issues like this on the Renthal Apex stem, but with Atlas Stem I had to Check it before and after every ride, and during ride to be sure bolt’s did not get loose and the handle bar were spinning.
    also I got issue with Hope Tech Seat post clamp & Shimano brake levers too. the bolts might undo enough for the saddle to slip back, but these are side effects rapid temperature change, shrinking things slightly, of course different materials will be effected at different rates. You just have to expect this and tighten it down when you are out and check suspension too see if pressures are right, because it can drop a lot, so if this post was a air post it would need to to work with something like 10psi drop or increase, but as this is a mechanic dropper post you don’t have to worry about the pressure.

    Once when greasing the collar and screwing on the collar there was resistance, it turned out to be the dust wiper seal which has was skewed, and got worse when threading the collar on, so I had to take the collar off, and hammer it in using a bearing press block. I don’t know why this happen, but I suspect it might be the play in the post, the front to back rocking.

    Pros

    • The lever has nice ergonomics.
    • Easy to install.
    • The Torx bolts in the seat clamp have not worn out after several weeks of use, it looks promising.
    • The barrel adjuster on the lever for wire tension has not snapped or bent yet, so it looks promising.
    • The barrel adjuster has a ice wheel to turn, it makes it easy to adjust the tension even with one finger
    • the dropper is easy to service with common tools.
    IMG_20190305_140458
    IMG_20190305_140432
    Collar on E13 TRS Plus dropper post

    It has two springs and have plastic spacer holding them in together.

    I use Mudgugger Rear so the dropper post stanchion is a lot cleaner than without a mudguard, but some dirt will stil get there, fro mother directions.

    It uses a NAK WP35 25 dust wiper seal.

    E ThirteenTRS+ Dropper Post

    35 is probably 35mm 25 probably is 25mm which are the measurements of this seal.
    www.nak.com.tw/index.php/en/product/product_subcategory

    I know the first version had SKF wiper seal, but I don’t know why the switch or exact differences.

    which is mentioned & shown in this review, also showing the internals and closeup, no poin’t in me doing this when it has been done : https://nsmb.com/articles/ethirteen-trs-dropper-post-review/

    I wanted a fully rebuildable dropper post I could service at home fast & easy, which this dropper offers.

    service guide: https://service.bythehive.com/Guide/TRS+seatpost+service+-+disassembly/83

    Product page: https://bythehive.com/products/trs-seatpost

    Flickr Photo Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmwhkt5H