I have updated the review on Dec 16, 2015, I have improved the review.
they cost the same as the giro remedy X gloves and are way better when it comes to comfort & Poc offers protection padding but Giro does not.
the impact protection is too thin, they won’t help on a proper impact, I tested it with hitting my hand harder and harder on a stem
The adjustment strap is twisting and keeps getting undone.
because these gloves were actually bit too big(size large) I changed to 2016 Resistance strong gloves(size medium),the palm on some of the gloves worn out, I think this is caused by the material used & the venting holes in them, so far the Index Dh has been holding up OK,but I guess over long period of time they will eventually wear too.
I have used the gloves my two pairs for the whole winter of 2017-2018 I managed to wear out the stitching in the long finger due to braking, but that is easy to fix.
I use these gloves in the winter, with fleece gloves and Nitrile gloves, for colder days with -5c and below I use two pairs of fleece gloves, and nitrile gloves for waterproofing, which has worked great.
I recommend doing something similar.
I get good to feel a and control over the cockpit with this setup, but with Ski gloves, I Lack control and feel.
because these gloves are one size to big, I had to get them sewn in where the gap with the elastic is, which results in no need for the Velcro strap. So the glove fits securely, and I can take it on and off easily.
Since I first wrote this review in 2016 I have improved this review, more & better pictures, improved text, and more details.
no more twisted strap, like on 2015 Index DH glove
more air flow than the DH index glove provided by the holes in the palm
I stay cool even in 25 deg. Celsius
true to size, I have 21cm knuckle size, and the medium fits me perfectly. I went from Index DH gloves in large which was a bit too bit too big, to this glove.
Durable ceramic-coated SuperFabric® with abrasion-resistant properties, this actually works.
the impact protection is silly thin, they won’t help on a proper impact, I tested it with hitting my hand harder and harder on a stem.
Because of the holes on the palm, the durability suffers when you get something (pedal pins for example) stuck in the holes you can tear the fabric, but this is also caused by the fabric’s weakness.but if you do it can easily be fixed if you got some sewing skills.
the triple dots on the fingers wear off fast because they are glued on.
The Stitching failed on one pair, They were Only used one day, I put these on today and the stitching came loose.
the glue holding the Velcro to the rubber strap failed of some pairs of gloves, but you can easily fix this with a sewing kit. Sadly I got an inconsistent quality of the stitching on these gloves with the gloves I got.
after many months of use, the glove stretched and had to be sewn in the palm to fit me properly.
the picture below shows a new glove:
But if you want longer lasting palm to get the Index DH glove instead, but it will of course not be as cool as the Resistance glove, but the durability of the palm must be improved.
I still use my Index DH gloves in size L, for colder days, I wear them over fleece gloves in size M, which works well.
I will look into other gloves, like Mechanix for example, they got full finger padding and knuckle padding.
Here is an improved review, since the last time I posted a review on these,
I have used Esi grips since 11.2015 until January 2018, so I am very familiar with them. But now finally I revised the review, new pictures, improved text. I wish I did it sooner but did not get around to doing I until now.
I put them thru its paces, I rode with them in -11c to summer heat, in most weather conditions.
I went from hard and too small diameter grips to Easton MTB grips, which was torture to ride with so I had to get something better, but ESI Grisp were just a temporary solution.
I went for the 34mm diameter grips, they fit me perfectly.
I have been using these grips since 2015, they definitely work, but not for long, So I had to swap them out for a fresh set after few weeks.
feels great without gloves
10 colour choices, I got green fits my fuel-ex perfectly.
stays in place, does not slide off.
reduces hand numbness – fatigue- arm pump
easy to clean with a hard brush
not effected much by the subzero temperatures, they work in the summer heat and in the freezing winter.
they can be used in the winter, I have ridden few days with -10 and more, with the grips, without any issues.
not as grippy as rubber grips.
but they only last me 4 weeks, they become too soft and lose the shock absorption, and at that point, they are torture to ride, so they are expensive in longterm. In the In the winter I use 2.1 Suomi Gazza Extrem studded tyres with 4psi higher pressure than my summer setup with Maxxis 2.3 tyres, which becomes torture to ride with once the grips lose the shock absorption feature, first comes the loss of shock absobtion then the grip becoems more fragile and gets ripped apart easier and easier, then they begin to spin slowly, but this happens over the course of smany weeks, with higher wolume tyres I could ride them for bit longer, but not with my current winter setup, it’s torture, so I had to swap to fresh grips every 4th week, which cost way too much.
birds can damage the grips like here, after riding with them more than a week after the bird attacking them there are holes so deep I can see the handlebar, so if you crash hard you will rip the grips part.
These tires give excellent grip, but they, of course, don’t stop you from sliding on very slippery ice when you turn too fast or brake too hard, no tyre will.
the strong stink goes away after few weeks of use so the stink will not irritate you when you got the bike indoors.
after about 4 months of use, there were some cracks in the tyres, which have been caused by broken glass, some studs fell out some snapped in half, but studs can be replaced.
sticky well gripping tyre
the tyre is stiff enough for the studs to sit securely, which is not the case for WXC 300
good pattern, that helps with getting the mud away and gripping the surface.
Does not lose studs easily
they can last several seasons, at least 2 or 3 probably more if you are not too crazy with them. Since 2016 I have put these tyres through its paces with hard single track, riding on ice, riding street, I have dropped jumped, I rode down & upstairs, and they survived.
due to the 2.1 studded tyre will feel like horrible no matter of the rim width, with a lot of vibrations,lowering pressures means folding & hitting the rim, for this to not happen I have to add 4 psi more from usual setup, so instead of 28psi rear it’s 32 psi rear & 28 psi front, so when the Esi grips wore out & got softer my hands hurt due to the massive increase in vibrations.
they got a strong stink to them when they are new, which last few weeks.
about 4 months of use:
If you don’t mind the harsh ride, But proper grips help, and you want durable tyres these will do the job, But I might try bigger tyres, but be as durable as Gazza Extremes 294.
Check out Tommi Kivimäki‘s review & set up of Suomi Tyres Gazza Extremes 294:
This is not a cycling specific jacket, but a sports jacket, but I think it it’s good for cycling.
The arm zippers:
To close them while riding, you have to do the bicep bodybuilder move, which will hold the jacket in the sleeve in place while you zip it up, do it carefully of course.
excellent fit, which you can see in the video above, yes this jacket is very comfortable, there isn’t a point where I feel like it’s annoying or restricting or uncomfortable in any other way, I can move freely.
easily fit into a backpack, it’s so thin and flexible it’s easy to roll up & fold up to get into the bottom of a backpack.
the jacket covers up the neck, which is a necessary feature to have, there are some jackets out there that have too low neck coverage, but of course, I still use 2 Buff’s for maximum coverage, covering my face with one & neck with the other one.
Good coverage. I went with size XL, size L could fit me, for walking, but I went with the XL so I had full coverage, so the when my arms are down my hands are inside the jacket, but when having it on when riding and moving in all directions and stretching my arms and moving my upper body backwards, the jacket covers everything, and I don’t get wet.
The velcro sleeve wrist adjustment works great, there is great room for big ski gloves to go on the inside of the sleeve, and the Velcro adjustment is a good proof solution to adjust for maximum protection/coverage, no matter if you use huge gloves or thin gloves, you can adjust it to fit with ease.
well placed venting zippers, so when I began to be too hot, I just unzipped them and I stayed the perfect temperature.but when wearing a backpack you can’t fully unzip the zippers, but that is not a big deal, But you have to be careful unzipping it, as these zippers are more fragile than the heavy duty zippers.
the hood fit perfectly under the helmet, and it has adjustment i the back head and 2 in the front, but it is not in the way of the helmet adjustment which is great.
Excellent fit, perfect for mountain biking.
the adjustments are placed in the perfect spots.
2 big & well placed front pockets
the jacket has an adjustment in the hood & the bottom, which is also a feature that is necessary to keep water & mud out, it’s easily adjusted.
I can wear the POC elbow pads without any fit issues.
the front of the hood is stiffer than the rest
you can roll it and put it in your backpack, it takes little space. so its perfect for me, as the weather can change from warm summer weather to cold and rainy weather the same day.
I have ridden in -9 Celsius with only Swix base layer and a jersey under this jacket, I stayed warm, but I also did a ride in -11 Celsius I stayed warm but if I was still too long I felt bit colder, so if I am very active, I won’t get cold in -11 degrees, but, if your activity is not intense, another jersey should do fine.
The jacket fabric:
I crashed few times, but the latest crash, I jumped a root over & over a log and landed, due to my back twisting and I lost control, and my bike went to the left I went on the right and, the jacket’s sleeve landed on the gravel-covered asphalt, I got a small hole, on the left sleeve. but after being used for a really long time afterwards the hole did not get any bigger.
The velcro stitching on the sleeves loosened up, but it is to expect & long term use.
the zipper is definitely the biggest weak point of this jacket.
2 of the lower pins in the zipper, bent so I had to bend it back, but it came keeps coming back to pent position, I don’t know why this happened, maybe in one of the few crashes I had.
This jacket is a seasonless jacket, it can be used no matter the season, in my opinion, no matter if you run, ride, or ski.
But the Zipper has to be improved, it’s too easy to damage it, This is the first of this type of zipper I have ever used, But I have used many clothes with YKK zipper, but they all were bigger.
4th August I posted the review, but Since Then the crank was completely useless.
Time of use:
I have ridden this crank at least one season, but after I got my new bikes in 2015, I only rode this crank few weeks and days each year.
On my trail bikes, I have been using Race Face Turbine Cinch cranks, and they are very stiff, but the Acera cranks are not, it’s noticeable while track standing or on technical climbs.
When track standing I can feel the cranks flexing, which I have not experienced while riding on Hallow XT cranks.
So far no damage to the threads for the pedals, like on the M522 cranks.
But these cranks are clearly not good enough for me.
The cranks are quite flexible,
I destroyed the cranks.
A few Days ago the crank looked like it was in perfect order, but I took the bike for a short side-walk ride, and after doing a inspection on the bike I noticed I managed to bend the spider leg on the front/ to the right of the crank. after a closer look Isaw the square taper hole in the crank had tiny alloy ”spaghetti” & when sliding on the crank on the tapered square axle I noticed that there was a difference in resistance on each angle, might be due to wear caused by too flexible crank,I am about 75kg with all the gear on.
A few days later crank arm to loose after about 14 km ride, with some bike-path and some light xc trails, I torqued used Loctite 243 bolt thread, I torqued it to spec, and I left it to cure, the next day I checked the cranks as I was Already working on bike, I noticed creaking sound from the BB area, so I inspåected it, I cocked each crank arm in all directrions,I noticed the left was making the noise, I then removed the bolt, and inspected it further, by rocking the crank arm, doing this I managed to take it off using my bare hands
I abused them but not much:
I have jumped the bike with these cranks, dropped of concrete walls.
The hardest abuse these cranks got must be the time I landed on a stair step, with the pedals after jumping.
I have used these pads for a really long time now, over 2 year,The whole year, and I put them trough some hard crashes, and they protected me every time.
I was so satisfied with these, that I bought second pair as spare,So I always have clean protection, or if I damage one the other can be repaired.
When fabric has stretched:
When the rear fabric has stretched make sure you fix it, get it back to the correct measurements again so the pads fit as intended,which is important so they don’t slide around,So they give you maximum protection.
You have to use the right technique to put them on:
if the pad slides up its because you did not use the right technique to put them on,You should hold the top part with 2 hands and pull them up so all the fabric slides upwards keeping the pad low, and have to top part with the adjustment strap as high as possible, this way they say in place, I have the typical muscle legs and thighs, And I use size Medium and have worked perfectly, as long as I did put them on right. I also noticed that they will make noises as the pads are against each other, as for the discomfort,you should have the upper part as far up as you can,if it’s right under the knee it will not be comfy.
comfortable(if worn & put on correctly)
good fit, the upper is made like a joint, so the upper part stays n palace while the rest moves with your leg and knee. this work very well.
does not slide down
good protection on the side of the knee
good Velcro straps
no movement restrictions
size matches the size guide, not like 2015 products from Bliss
But of course you are gonna get bit warm, but the protection Poc’s pads give you is definitely worth it, but in the fall, winter this is not a con:-)
the weight,but I don’t care, if they protect me.
I think these pads are one of the best on the market right now
if you want durable,heavy duty protection these are a good option,if you ignore the fact they are sweaty to wear.
Sickline.com video in the Poc stand at Interbike 2014:
.I have used these brakes on 3 bikes, some more than others, until they failed.
No banjo fitting
The brake lever body/Master cylinder flex when braking harder than 50%,which is why the plastic lid & the separator & the Master piston unit to bend or get damaged, and cause leaks, so the lever will be soaked in oil, and oil will spit out through the middle where the plastic lid is.I compared the flexing in the levers on m396&m615 and there is significantly more flex in the m615, if you press the lever blade half way you wont see flex on the m396,but on the m615 you will.
Leaking caused by plastic cover bending upwards, and front and the back is also being pushed upwards but sideways too, causing a leak.
temperature changes, will cause changes to the materials, a minor hit can cause this. the design is clearly flawed.
I had to replace one master cylinder due to failed threads, and I had the leaking issues with the new one too.
Impossible so far to get placement seals/grommets/diaphragms, or just the master cylinder separately.
The cause of failure was certainly not over torquing the screws, It certainly was not a crash that caused it,because I never crashed with this particular brake.
Hinged clamp,no need to remove grips & shifter.
the levers are easy to bend back if you bent them,which I have done on 2 bikes so far.
good braking power,at least if you use Metal pads
it’s not too expensive
it’s not too heavy
no need to take off grips to take off the brake, because of the swing arm clamping mechanism.
The Brake Lever will bend if you crash into a tree(before I upgraded the handle bars i was used to ride on the fuel ex 7 with 720 bars),at low-speed,don’t just let the bike fall on the ground,it can bend the brake lever.
You can of course bend it back with proper tools and technique.
M615 Piston seals: the number written on pistons seals.
IUY 21.1 25 3.19 78 NOK
The Both brakes are too fragile.
Because the brake lever body/master cylinder is way too flexible and that there is a palstic lid,instead of metal lid,which causes the brake to leak.
I have seen a lot of reviews claiming these brakes are a good value at a low price point.
I agree with the braking power for the money is there, but not the reliability, these brakes are too fragile.
same goes for the other brakes with the similar design, for example, M396, M395, but at least it’s possible to get Reservoir Lid Unit for M396, M395.
the main reasons I got these shoes is the protection it gives for the ankle, and use them all year and I can wear them over my rain pants.
Five Ten is probably the most used and well known flat shoes on the market.
as far as I know there is no other MTB shoe that gives you ankle protection, these shoes do not have any protection padding, it’s just that these shoes go over the ankle and are thick so will give protection against smashing your feet against stuff.
The only way to get wet in these shoes is if rains come through the shoe tongue or the top of the shoe-pants tucked into them. But if you don’t tighten the shoe laces properly you can get quite wet.
The venting holes don’t make any difference.
But I do not recommend standing too long in water where the tongue gets under, it will eventually soak up water& when you bend the shoe water will come between the tongue.
stiff sole but you are still able to walk in these shoes without any issues.
the stiffer sole makes my foot more stable and does not twist like with softer running shoes.
The leather on these shoes is durable.Even there are venting holes(that don’t really work).
the shoes will fit with high feet with fat toes.
Very durable outer sole After almost 6 months:
Very sticky sounds like you have jam under your shoes, but of course, on very wet and slippery or slimy roots and such, it will not help with anything no matter how good rubber you got.
good side protection around the whole shoe, but on the top of the shoe you will not get the same protection but if it had that it would probably be uncomfortable.
will protect your rear part fo your feet against the pedal bite.
Some design flaw which results in wear
I got water in the shoe o n a rainy day and soaked trails when the shoe whole was bent, even though the laces were tight.
Replacing laces is tricky if you use the original fabric loops, they are so tight and in such angle, it’s very tricky, that’s why I later just use the holes in the leather which is much easier to and will not wear the laces as fast.
waI had issues with the laces slip, they undo them self slowly, but after 15-10 minutes, but I later changed to some other shorter and grippy laces,b ut the new laces snapped too, which is caused by the fabric lace guides.
The tongue design result in the tongue sliding up to the side, the 2016 model has a standard tongue, where this is not an issue, but the tongue was still sliding up this way, this is a design flaw.
mine came with sticky glue , this only issue I had with these shoes, not really a issue because this has no effect on anything there is no necessary to have glue there at all.i have not returned them because really need these shoes.
I switched to shorter laces with more grip:
After almost 2 years of use:
here are the measurements of my foot.
So these shoes are actually a bit too long for my feet, but the width is perfect in size 44, so that why I did not go lower.
the size is very similar to Adidas running shoe sizes, or identical
I have been using these shoes both in + and – degrees, you will get bit sweaty and warm on hot days, But it’s worth the sacrifice for the protection and grip the shoe provides.
I have used the shoes in -6 degrees Celsius with wool socks, on a normal intensity ride, but for slow casual riding or commute you would need 2 socks.
Things to improve:
making the shoe lighter
side shoe vent material should be replaced, with leather or something wight similar strength.
If you want an all year all round shoe, these are a good choice, but buy new shoelaces, and you have the best MTB flat shoe in my opinion.
If you ride in trainers/running shoes then you are missing out big, the amount of grip these shoes give is good.the have to lift you your feet to move it on the pedal, it sticks so well, but of course walking on ice or wet surface you lose grip.
February 2016 update: some wear on the top on the side of the shoe where the shoe tongue goes. the sole wear is minimal.
I have ordered the 2016 model, but need to return them because of faulty glueing, but I will review these shoes after I have used them a while.
After few weeks of use of the XR3 Expert tyres, so I need new tyres so I purchased all the se4 tyres in stock. I did not abuse the tyres, I rode singletrack & some stairs.I do not mind the weight of these tyres because of the durability.
After using the 2015 Bontrager SE4 Team Issue 29×2.3 for the 2015 season, I tried Maxxis High roller 2 3C Maxx Terra EXO TR 2.3 the 2016 season, which are much better tyres in my opinion, so I needed to update you on this.
No twisting when running 25 psi.
Takes rock gardens pretty well, no cuts yet.
the excellent pattern gives you good grip
I did not notice any difference in rolling resistance from the Xr3 expert to the Se4 team issue
puncture resistant.Never got a puncture no matter how hard I rode, which is partly good luck at the time, but these tyres won puncture by trail use. even if I rode on broken glass.( of course I if you ride on a big and sharp thing you will puncture every tyre)
no problem to run 25 psi,no matter how hard I ridden,which I can’t do on the Bontrager XR1 Team Issue 26″” x 2.20 or the Bontrager XR 3 expert
fast rolling & cornering, Compared to Maxxis HigRoller 2 23.3 Se4 corners better on asphalt.its the thread pattern & hardness of the tyre which does it.(but for grip Maxxis HighRoller 2 2.3 wins.)
heavy at 1010 grams for one tyre its quite heavy, but the higher weight is unavoidable with thicker s, stronger tyres.
The Se4 tyre is way too hard which result in the tyre washing out/sliding out on hard packed dirt or loose dirt, The tyre does not compress and form to the surface enough. I had these tyres on my spare bike, but iI swapped wheels from my spare bike over from my main bike and taken a ride the local trails with the Bontrager Se4 tyres the rear i crashed which I have never done on the trusty Maxxis High roller 2 3C Maxx Terra EXO TR 2.3.
I can’t recommend these tyres because I have tried Maxxis HighRoller 2 3C ‘s
I have not had any issues when riding on the pavement or asphalt road, but I haven’t ridden down o’clock turn on asphalt, so I can’t Tell you about it.
Not so good on common variable trail conditions. mountain biking, I recommend getting a tyre with better cornering grip, and stickier rubber for better grip, I now use Maxxis HighRoller 2’s and I have never looked back.
Maxxis HighRoller 2 is as durable and got a much softer compound.
For me the Maxxis HighRoller 2, offer a better package, even it does not turn as fast, but for me it’s perfect, sacrifice, the result is an excellent overall experience.
I use Maxxis Minion 2.3 on my trek 6300 26er bikes, and they roll fast in corners, but they don’t slide/wash out on you when riding fast in corners, so for more technical trails I recommend Maxxis High Roller 2 2.3 or 2.4
for xc gravel, or not too rooty trails, for xc, gravel and asphalt Minion’s are perfect
After 5 months the saddle tip showed signs of wear, probably caused by the saddle flexing and compressing and the material rubbing against the plastic.
does not grip as well as Bontrager saddles,but it’s not very slippery neither.but if you use a the SSR seat post you should change to shorter screws, because of the flex and the low profile of the saddle,there is too little room, so the saddle will hit the screws.
This saddle is the most comfortable saddle i owned yet,but i gave not owned many.
The plastic fame will be lasting a long time because the rails are mounted to the plastic base using a machine instead of 2 or 1 small screw holding it together with a plastic plate.
perfect amount of flex for comfort.
the cover wears out with too much friction/rubbing.
The white lines for the adjustment, are not equal on both sides on all of the saddles, I got.
The cover need improvement.
I do not regret buying this saddle, because of the comfort & the frame durability
Finally a saddle with a base made how I would have done it,simple no screws that pop out/jump out/fall out.
one of the most comfortable saddles, to a competitive price.
This wheelset is a perfect example of why you should know or read long term reviews.
The Bontrager hubs using in this wheelset are manufactured by Formula Hubs.
the type of riding I have done is the most normal trail/enduro/singletrack
The highest I ever jumped with these wheels was 1 meter.
This is the stock wheelset on my 2014 trek fuel ex 29ers.
The front wheel wheels were fine, but the primary bike had a noisy front wheel, its most likely the spokes, or the rings in the rim, on the rear rims many of them were loose.
Maxis high roller 2 are quite hard to take on and off on this rim, a good tyre lever is needed.
The wheels get out of true way too fast.
I managed to make it true sideways but not radially.
after few km on my spare bike, the rear tyre was hitting the inner tube wrapped on the chainstay, I took off the tyre and tried to true the wheel, it was impossible to radially true it.
even at max tension & loosening the and loosening the other spokes above to make it true)the spokes could not pull the rim inwards.
the primary bike had a flat spot, but it also was untrue very fast, and the tyre hit the frame on it too, but it was fixed with truing.
but the flat spot was impossible to fix, I managed to get it better but still was about half cm out of true radially.
this was after few months
the rim had drilling residue after spoke holes.The other had something black inside it, probably drilling residue with black paint-job.
The spoke nipples:
It’s Am not brutal or using the wrong tool for the job, I have never seen so soft spoke nipples, but some worked fine. so this might be faulty nipples, something wrong with the alloy on these spokes.
many of them were inaccurate so the spoke wrench did not fit properly unless forced,
almost half of the spoke nipples got rounded off,t he metal was like chocolate that began to melt, some nipples even cracked,t o take them off I need pliers, some nipples even snapped/cracked.
I used the correct size of a wrench, I will rebuild the wheels with new rims, spokes, and spoke nipples.
I have been puncturing a lot, even I go beefy tyres: Maxxis High roller 2 2.3, and I have been riding down stairs and rough terrain, and lost air pressure, and ridden down stairs until I hear a loud bang, But I did not get any big dents.
So upgrading to tubeless might be a good upgrade.
28 spokes are too few on a 29er trail/xc/enduro bike.these are the Moist flexible wheels I ever rode.
Bigger the wheel is more spokes it needs.
more spokes easier it is to true it, and longer they stay true.
The original rim tape, eventually will twist and bend, when you get punctures.
the freehub on the spare bike had no grease in the freehub bearings.
I had ridden the bike only 60km, at the time, but this resulted in play, and loud noises, I had to repack it with grease.
the front is almost idiot proof.
It’s so easy to service as long as you got the right tools for the job.
the rear bearings did not need any repacking, they have good, blue grease in them.
to take off the freehub you need an 11mm Allen/Umbraco key & an adjustable wrench, and use the long side of the Allen key.
because of the Park tool 11mm, Free-hub retrench is too short for this particular hub.
Way too flexy get untrue too fast, the only good thing is the easy to service hubs
It’s best to read a lot of reviews, and see what your friends or the rest of the community are riding and what they think is good, before you order a wheelset. that what I am gonna do.
The best method to take off the tyre with these Tyre levers:
Removing this way does not work:
Even when I lubed the tyre with soap, and used the put on part of the lever but it I still struggled with the Maxxis High Roller, This is unavoidable because of the tightness of the tyre.
So I did this instead:
When taking off my Maxxis High Roller 2 tyres off my Bontrager duster wheels, I used one lever with a spoke hook to hold the tyre in place, and taken the ”remove” part of the lever under the tyre bead and lifted it, step by step did the same thing over and over to the tyre loosened, it worked quite well. But dragging/pushing/pulling the lever just does not work.
Easy to remove as long as you do it the right way, which is not how its shown in the press videos.
last longer than many cheap thin flexy alternatives, Weldtite for example.
the put on part works with light xc tyres, but not with sticky thicker tyres.
Because it’s plastic it does not scratch the rim.
the ”remove” part of the lever works great for installing, just keep the tube away from getting pinched.
no matter how I hold it the tip and the rest body flexes, I have been using if quite often maybe 20 or 30 times in 1,5 years.
I got 2 of these, one of them was bit tight to get on the rim but was ok after few times of use.-
I ended up using just the ”removes” instead of the ” install” part of the lever when I was finishing off putting the tyre on. ( I used Maxxis High roller 2 tyres)
Does not fit average and big hands
Super easy the lady said, The method this woman use does not work with Maxxis High Roller 2 on Bontrager Duster wheels, one of the issues is that the tyres are so tight, unlike the bike magazine have shown in their video
One of the best plastic tyre levers,that is for sure.
Its the only tyre lever that I could take off tight enduro/trail tyres with.
I have used Weldtite and Zefal lever before,the Zefal levers were way too thin and broke, Weldtite levers flex too much.
I but the perfect tyre lever must be made of alloy,with plastic tips to protect against scratching.will have to buy Metal levers next time,and have a handle that fits every hand, which Speedier Lever does not have.
A metal lever with replaceable plastic tips would be the best, in my opinion.
These shorts use 2 buttons instead of one button through a hole.
The pockets are smaller than in the trail vent shorts, a small wallet or keys will fit perfectly.
Zip pocket at leg works well as phone pocket
True to size fit
good breathability, the short is made of a thin material in the thigh and front area, and with SuperFabric on the sides. these shorts are a huge improvement in terms of cooling over the trail vent shorts.
perfect with knee pads
good adjustment & sizing, the sizing is perfect for me, I am 32 in waist and 26 in the hips, and I use the adjustment straps to the max both on the Poc Trail vent and Resistance shorts.
smooth YKK zippers
The VPD padding does not compromise comfort.
the VPD padding could be wider and longer.
only 2 colour choices
Because of the fit, comfort, and protection, I recommend these shorts.
These shorts are one of the best shorts you can get.
In my opinion, these 2016 shorts are the best shorts for use.
the stand I got Failed after few days of use,the clamping plates failed when I had the Trek Fuel ex 7 29er in it.and suddenly I hear a loud bang,but it was fixed with 2 washers on each plate.
The teeth on the and angle-adjustment wear out fast and there will be huge play, which makes the bike hang loose. it should be made of metal instead, or there should be a different solution for adjustment.
The plastic where the screws are got eaten up by the weight of the 13.6 KG bike.
the arm holding the bike is sagging so the bike will not be hanging 100% straight.
No replacement offered for Plastic inserts for the arm.The plastic inserts where the arm fro the adjustment slides in and out, wears out fast, so there will be huge amount of play, that causes huge amount of sag,(the bike hangs uneven. there is nothing wrong using plastic there but then spare parts are needed.
huge amount of play, in the legs
when working on the bike you have to take the wheels of or the the weight of the bike might flip the stand.
the clamp failed after few times of use, I had my 13,6 kg bike clamped. and suddenly I hear a loud bang,one of the plastic plates on the clamp failed, so now its very flimsy and bike wont stay still.
there is noticeable play I the whole stand
when you have The small-parts box is useless,if you hang the bike to by the seat post.
The plastic camping plates, will scratch the frame,so you need to have something over it.
If I use the 42T cog on the cassette the chain will fall off when back-pedalling, but when I shift up to 37T cog the chain stays in place no matter how hard I pack pedal.
On Hope Pro 4 freehub:
the Pro 4 free hub, is 11 speed compatible, which means it’s wider, and comes with a spacer,and with 11speed cassette, the cassette is closer to the frame/more outwards to the right, which gives a better chain line, so the backpedalling issues is gone,Unless you backpedal at unrealistic speed,then it will fall off,but I have done 180 U turns in 1stgear(42T) and the chain never fell off.
So if your rear hub is compatible with a wider freehub,you should get one.
Huge noise reduction when riding:
The first thing I noticed after I upgraded to 1×11 is that all the slapping ,banging and scraping noises are gone from my bike.
The narrow wide chain-ring will make more sound than the triple chain-ring, but when ring in rough terrain or jumping, the noise is a lot less than a conventional triple ring set-up would make.
There is big difference in the force needed to press to press the small trigger(up shift),but I got used to it after days ,and it did not feel as hard to press, and I like the shifter feel,I get less accidental shifts this way.
The change in gear is instant like promised.
The possibility to shift by bending you finger and do a finger kick motion,which you can’t do with Sram shifters.
(like this(https://youtu.be/7HvJma35fZA) to push the lever/trigger is gone, as the Shimano Deore 10 Spd had.But for me this is a acceptable compromise.
But there will be no accidental shifts
There is huge difference in the force required to push the triggers between SL-M610 & M8000 , so if you plan to upgrade a kids bike you might want to let the kid try it out first,but for the youngest I recommend getting SL-M610 or something similar.
you can shift down 4 gears
The I-Spec B shifter will have rotational play,because of the pin system, it’s not avoidable.
The screw came with a lot of Blue thread-locker,so needed to try few times until I finally got it tight without loose shifter.
But the adjustment screws did not,so you have to buy thread locker for them, I used Loctite 243.
The rear Derailleur:
A lot stiffer Clutch system, which is good.
Very smooth,fast shifting movement.
Esy to service, as long as you got magnetic bowl, and are careful with the round seal fo the spring assambly.
Race Face Narrow wide:
The chain will not fall off no matter how hard I ride, if it falls off you must be crashing really hard.
There is some drag when pedalling but this is not noticeable when riding, the chain still wants to be on the ring for about a half of a second, but this is impossible to avoid with Narrow Wide.
set up used in test: 2010 trek 6300 1 x10 36-11T cassette Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, with 36T Race Face Narrow Wide chain ring.The chain dropped when it was in 24 Tooth cog, but when I tried in 21 cog it stayed on. Even on stairs that were not that steep probably 40 degrees,the chain fell off.
Pros of 1×11:
You get all the gears you need if you just select the right chairing for you.
a lot quieter drive train
dropping the chain is rare unless you ride in low gears down steep stairs.
No front chain rigns to deal with
easier to clean the drive train,less dirt & mud on the drive train
if you want to sue a chain guide, you can use a single ring chain guide which will be more secure,and look better
if you use a wide range cassette with a 9T cog you can get the a pretty high gear as you could with triple rings,but with 11-42 with 36T cassette I get a pretty good range,but once I get on the 1km flat straights I will run out of gears
Cons of 1×11: There are no real cons riding 1×11 it will havefaster wearing cassette and chain of course,but that’s not a reason to not upgrade. the 37 and 42 cogs are the fastest wearing cogs, because of the bigger chain angle.
the cassette & chainring wore out at the end of the season like it did with 10×3, maybe few weeks sooner wear. I don’t have to shift as often and skip so many gear so often,so I get less side to side wear on the chain,by using 1×11,so the chain growth will be less.
If i changed the chain,a lot earlier, the cassette and ring would have lasted longer,but I had no spare chains,but I have a stock of chains now.
The Rear derailleur cage will have visible wear, with 1x setup,because of the chain line the chain will hit the plates,but its not a big deal.
I absolutely recommend Both the Xt m8000 drivetrain and the Race Face Narrow Wide single chaining.
I need a fork as fast as possible, this fork was the best I could get at the time straight away.the 2012 XCM v3 I had on the Trek 3900 worn out, so I had the local shop swap the 2010 Rockshox Tora SL fork over from the 6300 to the 3900, and get the Corsa on the 6300.The fork plus lighter handlebar & stem (race face turbine) made the front a lot lighter.the flex is about the same as on the Rock Shox Rora SL, bu the suitability is much better.
The fork was making less noise, the knocking sound was almost gone or maybe gone, itsI had no issues riding in -6 degrees Celsius.I don’t know why the fork get silenced in below freezing, and the knocking is back with above freezing.