I haven’t had a very hard impact on the bash guard yet, but I had one light scrub, which barely gave a mark, but once I get a big impact I will update you on this.
The bash guard is mounted with two Torx screws to into the plate, which makes assembly and disassembly is very easy & fast, there is no need for two Torx screws like with MRP AMGv2, but the only bad thing about this is if you ruin the threads, you cna’t just swap bolts, but it keeps the weight down.
Doesn’t clog up with mud, 77designs designed a great chain guide, it does the job well, without any unnecessary bulk or material, mud will travel through the big hole.
easy to take the chain off, due to the simple and great design of the guide, you just undo the bolt little bit and swing the front guide, with Loctite 243 and proper torque it will stay on securely.
the chain guide from 77 Designz seems to be good, with keeping the chain in place, I tested how well the chain will stay on by forcing it off the chainring, the plastic pushed it back on, so I think the chain will be very secure on the trail no matter how fast or hard you ride. I think it does a better job than MRP AMG v2, which is not really made for oval chainrings.
bash guard could be few millimetres longer, to protect against very uneven stone edges.
I could not compare & test the durability & longevity of the cassettes in a accurate & scientific way, but here is my experience with it so far. I have been swapping between 3 wheel sets, and various time of use, only way to accurately test it is a machine with exact same abuse.
The cogs eventually bent/twisted, but it took much longer than on the XT casette,
the Sun Race Cassette is more flexible, but also more resistant to ”permanent” bends.
I have 3 wheel sets I rotate, when one needs a service or something is wrong I can just swap, so I haven’t used the cassettes 100% equally amount of time.
I am not sure if the flex in the FuelEx’s that did this or if its the cassette’s fault.
it was more resistant to blends but is more flexible than XT cassette.
I have of course regurally chainged the chain when it got to 0.40mm stretch. and lube the chain well, an done every htign correctly.
The Last ride on the last cassette:
I worn out 2 of the tree cassettes, and June 2018 I worn out the last one.
The cassette was so messed up, that the chain dropped to the smallest cog.
I knew the cassette was going to wear out soon, and it did,the chain dropped to the smallest cog. The hanger was bent too.
the smaller cogs are have bent teeth & twisted teeth, some of the cogs are bent too.
there is no way I can twist the teeth back to be straight with any tool I got. if it was just the cogs a screw driver would probably do the trick, it did before on several XT cassettes.
I had to put on Xt cassette I had.
The Sun Race cassette was more resistant to the abuse The Fuel EX frame set put s the drive train trough, but eventually it got abused too much.
With 11-46T x 34T oval I found I need wider range, so I might try 11-50T Sunrace Cassette or maybe E Thirteen, I will continue the research for a while. But I won’t get A Shimano cassette as it does not offer the smooth and range and bigger range.
First things I noticed compared to the Xt m8000 was the different feel, which is difficult to explain, but it’s different.
A look inside:
A closer look at the mount:
you can see the clamp is narrow & have a smart design which does not compromise on stiffness or reliability, and keeps it light.
It got some abuse:
I have managed to scrape up the Carbon trigger, I don’t know how or when, but probably in one of the few crashes I had, probably on asphalt or rock, but it held up well without any cracks or other damage.
No position adjustment:
XTR Shifter & TRP Spyke lever is not a good combo, with the Spyke lever I have less room to play with shifter placement.
I would like to change the position of the shifter, for a better fit but The XTR M9000 shifter does not allow me to do this by default, I haven’t looked at alternative mounting solutions much.
WIth the new Shimano brakes(M7000, M8000, M9000), there is more room for clamping position.
I have recently changed from Exi Extra Chunky silicone grips to Rev grips in 34mm, and I am rubbing my thumb on the Lockon clamp when shifting up.
Both triggers have play, the play has been present in all Shimano shifters I have used or tried.
The clamp is well engineered, for lightweight, but the connection between the mount & the shifter is flawed, there is slight rotational play between the mount and the shifter.
Issues with too soft bolts:
I have experienced too soft bolts on several drivetrain components, shifters, rear derailleurs, So this was not a surprise.
The bolt holding the shifter to the clamp was not tight enough when I checked it, so I unscrewed it applied Loctite 243 and screwed it back in, the bolt rounded off slightly, the stronger bolt should have been used, this is disappointing, this is not something most people aspect from a high-end component, But I do, sadly there I see too many shortcuts in the bike industry.
Shimano please make mounts and other components compatible with cheaper shifters, for example, the clamps, covers, and so on.
I have been through several cassettes and put it through its paces.
Due to the design of the cogs, the transition from each cog is excellent. The chain stays well in place with unrealistic fast backpedalling, where the sun race cassettes would drop the chain, my bike has hope pro 4hub, Absolute Black 34t.oval chainring, this but the chain at an optimal angle for the biggest cog, so this clearly shows the sun race cassette performs worse with backpedalling. As mentioned in many other reviews, the jump to the 46t cog is too big, it messes up your cadence, but I got used to it.
The XT cassette has quite stiff cogs when the chainstay wore out on my 2014 fuel ex the extra side to side movement combined with bearing misalignment caused the cogs to bend, but this will not be an issue on a bike that does not have an extreme side to side movement or bearing misalignment issues. So, in conclusion, the cassette performed well.
Going from Xt m8000 with uncut 116 link Kmc x11 Sl silver chain, I had to add 5 links, due to the bigger tension pulley, but with 34T Oval I could use stock chain length, But I think I will try the E thirteen cassette, with 9-46T and go down to 32 T chainring for better range, and low weight.
Because the clutch(CamClutch) is not as strong in the higher hears as in the lower gears, it improves shifting greatly, over clutch systems like on Shimano m8000 or previous Shimano models,The shifting is so smooth that I can’t feel it, so going from Xt M8000 to Box one you might think the rear dérailleur is not shifting properly but if you take a look it actually did shift( I use a Xt M8000 11-46T Cassette with Both Rear dérailleur’s) I used This also makes the lever action lighter.
You can fully take it apart, as the swing arms have E clips, so removing them is easy with a screwdriver, So far Box does not offer every single part as a replacement.
I have already had the chance to smash it, on this technical section this was the result : so far it seems to be strong enough.
the composite got bit scratched and the big bolt too, but works well still, but had to adjust the limit bolts, the composite part replaceable, but not seen it offered as a spare yet.
I noticed there was a difference in how stiff the springs were between the two Box One rd’s I got, one still has a stiff spring.
I prefer Shimano trigger shifter, So I use the XTR m9000, good combo.
The shifting is very smooth, it’s actually smoother than Shimano XT M8000, because of the cam clutch, it gets stiffer as the lower gear you use, but this makes the high gear as there is no clutch at all, so this means smooth shifting, but this won’t be an issue unless you ride like a madman within the top gear, so any issues are unlikely, But I read reviews saying they dropped the chain, but some of them did not use chain guides, and some of them probably rode like madmen. like
I prefer Shimano trigger shifter, So I use the XTR m9000, good combo. The shifting is very smooth, it’s actually smoother than Shimano XT M8000, because of the cam clutch, it gets stiffer as the lower gear you use, but this makes the high gear as there is no clutch at all, so this means smooth shifting, but this won’t be an issue unless you ride like a madman within the top gear, so any issues are unlikely, But I read reviews saying they dropped the chain, but some of them did not use chain guides, and some of them probably rode like madmen. like back-pedalling downhill in max gear, which no one normally does, or even on the flat you will feel the chain slap. I rode pretty hard and fast in technical sections and I never had any issues.
Fitted on the bike with Uncut KMC 11x Sl silver chain:
There is definitely potential, Box has some great ideas, for example, use of bushings, but there some flaw that can’t be ignored.
The B Screw & threads in the body for B screw failed, it’s most likely due to alloy used, the next version comes with Forged alloy parts, so it should be more robust, it’s promising.
At first glance, I thought I had to adjust the B screw, But a few seconds later noticed that the screw has chewed off the edge of the hanger. Since then, I fully unscrewed it I discovered the threads were ruined, But then I discovered the B screw was switching between light and hard to turn as I unscrewed it, this was caused by the threads in hte body being completely destroyed. So I put Xt M8000 on the bike.
The position of the B screw does not help, I am quite sure it’s the reason the hanger got so damaged, but maybe the hanger on my bike should be thicker where the B screw is, but I think the B screw position is not optimal, and the combination of the placement & not using forged alloy resulted in failure. but using the rear dérailleur with upside down B screw with nuts for extra support, seems to work well, I haven’t had the issue on the other Rd. for Shimano Xt 11-46T I used one nut, for Sun Race 11-46T I used two nuts.
Dislocating cam clutch spring, the spring wears out and becomes too big, and creeps out on both sides of the O ring until most of it pops out.
BOX one has great potential, but the current rear dérailleur should not have been released to the public, as the product has major flaws, which hopefully will be fixed in the next version.
So I can’t recommend Box one Rd at this stage, but I can’t really recommend any other rear dérailleur either, I really hope they will fix this issue, by offering a free rear body upgrade, which would be easy to do, & easy for the more custom to install, as the Box ONE Rd can be fully disassembled, with only a screwdriver & Allen keys.I recommend keeping up to date with Box is doing, as maybe they will make the perfect Rd in the future.
Even trough the guide itself is made of plastic, it held up well.
I have been riding pretty fast in rough terrain, up and down steep trails, jumped, did some stunts, and drops, riding down steep stairs(40-50 degrees)in low gears, the chain never came off, there were not many signs of wear, but eventually you will have to change the guide,(the plastic part with Mrp logo), but I have been using it over a year and held up well, not much wear.
one of my first thought about the guard was it might get much mud stuck in it, but even though I have been riding in bad weather, there were not much dirt or mud stuck in there. But as long as you don’t ride in extreme condition, with a lot of mud, in something like Danny Hart’s 2011 world cup run, or even thicker mud, I am sure It won’t be an issue.
I there was some missing spacers, and I lost some of the thin spacers,but later I found them, so I switched to 2x thin spacers, which should, be better, but I still think bigger gravel can get stuck in between the chain ring and chain guide, but this is impossible to avoid.
But Now as I have a Sortimo boxes I don’t have a mess so it won’t loose any more small parts.
Make sure you Use the right spacers.
After riding a lot in the spring I noticed scrape on the 36T cinch narrow wide race face chainring, which I think is caused by a stone getting stuck between the chainring and the chain guide, causing a perfect circle scrape.
I had the bike in the repair stand, after riding on gravel paths, I noticed that there was a stone stuck in the chain guide and was scraping the chainring, and fell down again, I think that’s what happen the last time.
Very easy to install, & setup, No need to remove crankset or chainring to install the chain guide,
Minimalistic design, no bulky or unnecessary big parts.
after few hits, no damage done
all of the guides I got had missing thick spacers, and missing short screws.
Mrp claims it should fit 38 T chainring, But in my opinion, 36T is the max, with 38T the plastic will be too close to the edge of the chain. so if the guard was few millimetres bigger, it would fix 38T better, but I don’t need a 38T ring anyway.
Not properly Oval compatible:
Although MRP list this guide as Oval compatible it does not work as well with oval, due to the ovality of the chainring, the narrowest point of the oval causes more room and the chain could squeeze trough between the ring and guide.