Slightly Revised Long term review: Straitline DeFacto pedals

I have revised this one before 14 june, But I added some info about issues with the O-rings. I have also ordered Catalyst pedals, SO I will see how much difference they will make.

Flickr album

Straightline Components flickr group

I was so impressed with grip of these pedals that I ordered more sets so now I got 4 in total.

I run these with all pins, and the grip can’t even compare to normal cheap pedals they are on a whole new level, But They are not perfect, the short standard size platform is rideable but it’s too short for me.

I have jumped and landed with the pedal on the end of a stair end and no damage not bend no play. but they are now on my fuel ex and the left crank arm failed and the left pedal fell off, the threads for the pin failed few days later, which is probably caused by loosened pin, and damage to threads was probably done wheel the pedal fell off,I have Used Loctite 243 all of my pedals,the thread locker on the pins are will no do the job properly, So you have to apply some more.

IMG_20150805_165018

 

No damage to the threads

 

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No I did not overtighten them, it as a bike mechanic in the store that switched the pedals from my trek 6300 to the fuel ex.good they had a spare crank.I have used the pedal with the xt crank arm I got and the pedal did not fall of, so I assume it was just a faulty crank arm that caused this.

After about 2 season of use the metal rings and the locking clips will show sings of wear, I had to bend the clips with pliers to make them tight again, the O rings stretch after few months or weeks, causing the pedal to move from side to side and making knocking & creaking sounds.

But straight line provides spare parts, which can be bought directly from their site, or from online shops.

Winter Use:

After riding few days in freezing conditions& rapid changing conditions, the service intervals changed to servicing them quite often.

I had to use grease instead of lube, and apply so much grease it hindered water from coming on the inside, but the harsh conditions I rode in, still required the pedals to be serviced often. To Prevent Rust This is necessary, This is normal you will have to service any component more often in the winter.

I  did go trough several bushings in a year,about 1- 2 depending on use , as In got got several bikes & ride a lot.

Cons:

  • The platform is too short, for my 44 size feet, a longer platform would be nice. But riding with the five ten impact shoes definitely help.
  • The o-rings were problematic,f ew times as they stretched in a short time, and in hot weather the stretched O ring slid up from the spindle to the pedal wrench slots,after changing the shims, few times the o-rings start to wear. my experience was that I had to change them after few months or weeks,they cracked and stretched way too much way too fast, So if you got these pedals, toy need to stock these Orings.After having these issues I found on MTBR.com forum that others have the same issues. http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/straitline-all-mountain-amp-pedals-727035.html

Pros:

  • Very durable, can take some abuse.
  • excellent construction
  • excellent grip, the pins amount of pins & the sharp shape provide excellent grip, combined with Five Ten shoes it gives perfect grip.
  • easy to replace pins
  • easy to service, one of the easiest on the market right now
  • The pedal has plastic shim, which allows the pedal to stay in place in the same position when you remove your foot from the pedal.

Conclusion

If it was not for the ”standard” size platform I could recommend these pedals,But for smaller feet these will do the job. but as I have big feet, these feel too short.

IF you decide to get these, you will lave to get better O-rings

DeFfacto are not the lightest pedals with good grip on the market, but if you want to save weight go for the Syntace nine nine titan instead, but the Straightline de facto are much cheaper, But in my opinion a longer platform medal would be better, I don’t care about some tiny weight gains.

I have wanted a longer platform pedals for years, and I wanted to buy some buy never got around to do it, but I think my next pedals will be Pedal innovations catalyst,I think I will buy them to try them out for myself, The Straitline defacto and many other pedals are too short for me, but this does not stop me from using riding well, but I can definitely feel the disadvantages of the standard platform size.

http://www.straitlinecomponents.com/products/defacto-pedals

Kjøp Straightline komponenter i Norge/buying straightline components in Norway:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/no/en/straitline-defacto-platform-flat-pedal/rp-prod92591

eller: http://www.sykkelbutikken.no/komponenter/pedaler/mtb/straitline-defacto/

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pages/search-results?page_num=1&q=straightline

 

 

Long term review on 3 bikes: Shimano Deore M615 I-Spec-B brake set

I have used these brakes on 3 bikes, some more than others, the one That the threads for the Torx screws failed, was the one I used on my main bike.

Cons:

  • The brake lever body/Master cylinder flex when braking harder than 50%,which is why the plastic lid & the separator &  the Master piston unit to bend or get damaged, and cause leaks, so the lever will be soaked in oil, and oil will spit out through the middle where the plastic lid is.I compared the flexing in the levers on m396&m615 and there is significantly more flex in the m615, if you press the lever blade half way you wont see flex on the m396,but on the  m615 you will.
  • Leaking caused by plastic cover bending upwards, and front and the back is also being pushed upwards but sideways too, causing a leak.
    temperature changes, will cause this, a minor hit can cause this. the design is clearly flawed.
  • I had to replace one master cylinder due to failed threads, and I had the leaking issues with the new one too,but with a set of pliers it was fixed, by pressing the cover into the master cylinder until it was straight/flat against the master cylinder,but this is pointless to do, you are better off buying a mechanical brake or a proper hydraulic brake.
The threads for the Torx screw failed, which is clamping the cover which clamps down the grommet, SO fluid leaked, But I don’t know if it just failed, of if it was due to a crash, but the Torx screw was not damaged. In my opinion these screws are way too small,the design is way too fragile.
  • Impossible so far to get placement seals/grommets/diaphragms, or just the master cylinder separately.


I don’t know what caused the threads to fail, it was certainly not over torquing  the screws,I don’t know if its caused by fluid pushing the parts and girding the threads apart until they are so polished that they cant hold the cover, maybe I don’t know, I certainly was not a crash that caused it,because I never crashed with this particular brake.

Pros.

  • Hinged clamp,no need to remove grips & shifter.
  • the levers are easy to bend back if you bent them,which I have done on 2 bikes so far.
  • good modulation
  • good braking power,at least if you use Metal pads, ( if its wet or ride a lot)
  • it’s not too  expensive
  • it’s not too heavy
  • no need to take off grips to take off the brake, because of the swing arm clamping mechanism.

The Brake Lever will bend if you crash into a tree(before I upgraded the handle bars i was used to ride on the fuel ex 7 with 720 bars),at low-speed,don’t just let the bike fall on the ground,it can bend the brake lever.

  • 23779701854_0a5eeb02bd_b

You can of course bend it back with proper tools and technique.

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The I spec B system, is flawed, it’s quite flimsy, the shifter will move if you did not use Threadlocker and torqued it properly,
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2016 Shimano Deore XT M8000 Ispec B shifter mounted to Deore M615, (there is no B on the brake but its compatible jsut look for the I spec B holes) i know  the brakes are bit steep in this picture but I have tweaked that later.
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The Deore M615 on a 2010 trek 6300

Extra Info

M615 Piston seals:

IUY 21.1 25  3.19 78 NOK

Verdict:

The Both brakes are too fragile.

Because the brake lever body/master cylinder is way too flexible and that there is a palstic lid,instead of metal lid,which causes the brake to leak.

I have seen a lot of reviews claiming these brakes are a good value at a low price point.

I agree with the braking power for the money is there, but not the reliability, these brakes are too fragile.

same goes for the other brakes with the similar design, for example, M396, M395,but at least it’s possible to get seals for M396, M395.

Failed tHreads on M396 right lever/rear lever.

Flickr album

Review: Shimano Deore XT M8000 with Race Face Narrow wide

On 10speed Formula/Bontrager Freehub:

If I use the 42T cog on the cassette the chain will fall off when back-pedalling, but when I shift up to 37T cog the chain stays in place no matter how hard I pack pedal.

On Hope Pro 4 freehub:

the Pro 4 free hub, is 11 speed compatible, which means it’s wider, and comes with a spacer,and with 11speed cassette, the  cassette is closer to the frame/more outwards to the right, which gives a better chain line, so the backpedalling issues is gone,Unless you backpedal at unrealistic speed,then it will fall off,but I have done 180 U turns in 1stgear(42T) and the chain never fell off.

So if your rear hub is compatible with a wider freehub,you should get one.

Huge noise reduction when riding:

The first thing I noticed after I upgraded to 1×11 is that all the slapping ,banging and scraping noises are gone from my bike.25185797391_0cfdb76e37_o

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Enter a caption

The narrow wide chain-ring will make more sound than the triple chain-ring,  but when ring in rough terrain or jumping, the noise is a lot less than a conventional triple ring set-up would make.

With this set up i used uncut CN-HG701-11 chain.

Shimano Deore XT M8000 I-Spec B shifter:

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There is big  difference in the force needed to press to press the small trigger(up shift),but I got used to it after days ,and it did not feel as hard to press, and I like the shifter feel,I get less accidental shifts this way.

The change in gear is instant like promised.

The possibility to shift by bending you finger and do a finger kick motion,which you can’t do with Sram shifters.

(like this(https://youtu.be/7HvJma35fZA) to push the lever/trigger is gone, as the Shimano Deore 10 Spd had.But for me this is a acceptable compromise.

But there will be no accidental shifts

Down shifting:

  • smooth lever-action.
  • There is huge difference in the force required to push the triggers between SL-M610 &  M8000 , so if you plan to upgrade a kids bike you might want to let the kid try it out first,but for the youngest I recommend getting SL-M610 or something similar.
  • you can shift down 4 gears

The I-Spec B shifter will have rotational play,because of the pin system, it’s not avoidable.

The screw came with a lot of  Blue thread-locker,so needed to try few times until I finally got it tight without loose shifter.

But the adjustment screws did not,so you have to buy thread locker for them, I used Loctite 243.

The rear Derailleur:

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11-26T M8000 Cassette  & RD m8000 with original link & trek ABP hanger 

 

Pros:

  • A lot stiffer Clutch system, which is good.
  • Very smooth,fast shifting movement.
  • Esy to service, as long as you got magnetic bowl, and are careful with the round seal fo the spring assambly.

 

Enter a caption

 

 

Race Face Narrow wide:

The chain will not fall off no matter how hard I ride, if it falls off you must be crashing really hard.

There is some drag when pedalling but this is not noticeable when riding, the chain still wants to be on the ring for about a half of a second, but this is impossible to avoid with Narrow Wide.

If you want video proof that narrow wide works watch this video by Seth’s Bike Hacks

Me unboxing the 36T chainring

Down 50 degrees stairs test:

Steep stairs

set up used in test: 2010 trek 6300 1 x10 36-11T cassette Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, with 36T Race Face Narrow Wide chain ring.The chain dropped when it was in 24 Tooth cog, but when I tried in 21 cog it stayed on. Even on stairs that were not that steep probably 40 degrees,the chain fell off.

Pros of 1×11:

  • You get all the gears you need if you just select the right chairing for you.
  • a lot quieter drive train
  • dropping the chain is rare unless you ride in low gears down steep stairs.
  • No front chain rigns to deal with
  • easier to clean the drive train,less dirt & mud on the drive train
  • if you want to sue a chain guide, you can use a single ring chain guide which will be more secure,and look better
  • if you use a wide range cassette with a 9T cog you can get the a pretty high gear as you could with triple rings,but with 11-42 with 36T cassette I get a pretty good range,but once I get on the 1km flat straights I will run out of gears

Cons of 1×11: There are no real cons riding 1×11 it will have faster wearing cassette and chain of course,but that’s not a reason to not upgrade. the 37 and 42 cogs are the fastest wearing cogs, because of the bigger chain angle.

the cassette & chainring wore out at the end of the season like it did with 10×3, maybe few weeks sooner wear. I don’t have to shift as often and skip so many gear so often,so I get less side to side wear on the chain,by using 1×11,so the chain growth will be less.

If i changed the chain,a lot earlier, the cassette and ring would have lasted longer,but I had no spare chains,but I have a stock of chains now.

The Rear derailleur cage will have visible wear, with 1x  setup,because of the chain line the chain will hit the plates,but its not a big deal.

 

I absolutely recommend Both the Xt m8000 drivetrain and the Race Face Narrow Wide single chaining.

If you are not sure which gear ratio you need:http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/

Flickr Album: Shimano DeoreXT M8000

Flickr Album: Race Face

quick review Review: 2012 Marzocchi Corsa Superleggera(RL) RC 26er fork

I need a fork as fast as possible, this fork was the best I could get at the time straight away.the 2012 XCM v3 I had on the Trek 3900 worn out, so I had the local shop swap the 2010 Rockshox Tora SL fork over from the 6300 to the 3900, and get the Corsa on the 6300.The fork plus lighter handlebar & stem (race face turbine) made the front a lot lighter.the flex is about the same as on the Rock Shox Rora SL, bu the suitability is much better.

Winter riding:

The fork was making less noise, the knocking sound was almost gone or maybe gone, itsI had no issues riding in -6 degrees Celsius.I don’t know why the fork get silenced in below freezing, and the knocking is back with above freezing.

Flickr Album

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the lockout remote
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Sr Suntour VS Marzocchi

Pros:

  • a lot more stable/controllable ride than the Tora SL,because of the adjustments
  • remote lockout
  • lockout adjustment
  • much better adjustment than the 2010 RockShox Tora Sl

according to bike radar the corsa forks got noticeable flex, I have nto ridden that hard wit this fork yet, so I cant really say much about it.

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/category/components/forks-suspension/product/review-marzocchi-corsa-sl-lr-12-46027/

Cons:

  • knocking sound on rebound,The knocking sound comes from the right leg, I can feel something move in there, when I press the brake and rock back and forth.
  • The red rebound adjuster have a very flimsy feel, it got huge flex when you turn the knob.

Soem Riding footage:

The pump:

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Pros:

  • the button to reduce air pressure  is more precise than the Beto/Trek/Bontrager bump

Cons:

  • the black peace screws off sometimes

https://www.marzocchi.com/support/forks/2012/2012-corsa-sl-lr.aspx?idC=62354&idM=19240-1433-1433&idMy=15637&idP=18780-560&idS=15793

Review: Mucky Nutz BUTT FENDER mud guard/saddle mud guard-useless

The Mucky Nutz is is more secure, or getting hit than Ass Savers large ,which will easily fall of when hit or or pulled,but the Mucky Nutz will not fall off unless extreme forces are applied.

Pros:

  • Provides pretty good protection a gianst mud from the rear tyre.
  • when hit from above or under side it will stay in place.
  • it will stay in place without any issues when you ride.

cons:

  • does a very bad job at keeping you mud free, unless you only sit on the saddle. just look at this video:
  • its hanging down a bit.
  • when hit hard from the side it can snap out of place and fall off, if you crash or for example when you are getting on the bike by pulling your leg up, so be careful if you do it this way,this is not really a big issue.
  • can be bit tricky to take off,but that depends on the seat post design,i got the 2014 Bontrager seat post on my fuel ex 7.On the 2014
  • will not fit every saddle there is, the 2014 Bontrager Evoke 2  saddle the Fender will not stick up like this but will hand about 5 degrees down.
  • there will still be dirt coming from the rear tyre but if you got a backpack or jacket on it does not matter, i use a Evoc Fr Enduro Team and the bottom part of it get bit dirty, but for me that’s not a issue,the main reason for this fender is to protect your pants or shorts being muddy.

 

Conclusion:

Useless

I can’t recommend any saddle mounted fenders, its best to have a fender mounted on the seat stays, so it protects the pivots, and the dropper seat post.

Review:BBB BSD-04 Anatomic Race-Black saddle- Uncomfortable

ncathis saddle has more cons than pros, it’s basicly butt torture for me.

the plastic on the sides and the plastic part that hold the rails will be pushed into your buttcheaks and will hurt when sitting on it.

i felt the saddle right where my butt bones/ischial tuberosities.

its very unconfortable saddle, the onyl reason i fot the saddle is because hte bontrager ssr saddle on my 3900 broke.

i now sue a Bontrager race RL wich flexes more and is thinenr btu still cmfortable.

Pros:

  • pretty durable
  • the front plate under the saddle did not breake
  • no screws popped out.
  • the grip,but can’t say how long it lasts becuase i got a new saddle as soon as i could

 

Review: 2015 BBB-11 LOUD & CLEAR Bell

 

Pros

  • The spring system work very well, and never get stuck
  • the plastic will not bend and touch the metal bell it self so it will always stay loud.

 

Cons:

  • When wet , you can barely hear it.
  • the plastic spacers do not work, so when you have the screw tightened all the way it will slide off the plastic spacers, it did slide of when i was doing some trail riding with my bike,it came off. if you buy this bell you have to mount it in the middle/wide part of the handle bar, witch is very uncomfortable way to use it, or sue some rubber spacers instead, i had some laying around. so i did that and it seems to be secure.
  • cant adjust the angle, but the bells you can do that with are usually very bad
  • when it was -1 Celsius the bell was not loud
  • Bit less loud than the hamburger and Disney bells
  • When wet the bell is not loud.

Conclusion:

Not recommended,I later bought Disney Winnie The Pooh Bicycle Bell,which is as lout,but works in rain.

http://bbbcycling.com/accessories/bells/BBB-11

Review: BBB ULTRABASE DTL Road & MTB saddle

the saddle is harder than the Bontrager race saddle on the 2010 trek 6300,saddles is a personal thing,not every one will find every saddle comfortable, this saddle was not the most comfortable one I had.

IMG_20150924_192543

Pros:

  • durability is acceptable, it did not wear out or bend og any screws that fell out, so this is good,i got few holes on the sides from few crashes.

cons:

  • becomes slippery after at  least 1 year of use
  • the black stripes that go on the sides ,top of the saddle wear out after much riding.
  • only 3 colour options
  • bit hard,not as flexy as I would like.

http://bbbcycling.com/

REVIEW: 2011 SR Suntour XCM v3 100mm RSLO ( Heavy terrible fork for a terrible price)

RSLO= Remote speed lockout

i got this for because my xct v2 on my trek 3900 2010 had too mutch play and was jut horrible to ride on.so the store ordered the xcm  fork .

First i must tell you the travel is about 40mm not 100. i had a xct fork on mm trek 3900 disc 2010,it had alot of play and was flexing and alot of play when braking hard,but with the XCM V3 fork i don’t get that issue. i have not been riding this fork hard,in fact i had nto been riding mtb with it jsut used it to comute from store to store to home and so on. afther ca 1 year of riding the fork got play specially the left side,noise when braking clicking sounds. the paint on it is glossy black , it did not scratch easely or no paint fallen off yet.

i have ridden this fork in late summer and fall(few times only),winter(few weeks)

pros

  • Stiffer than XCT v2 2010 fork,but it still is bending and twisting
  • preload
  • comes in white and black
  • remote cockout
  • you can put it on older bike with vbrakes
  • 2 color option white and black
  • the remote works well,its the same as marzocchi use.

Cons:

  • rebound is bad when you sit on the bike,it just does not work, my weight is between 70 and 80kg. Small bumps get abozorbed by the fork,but big bumps the frok will stay compressed. you need to lift the front wheel to get it back to normal posistion.
  • no rebound adjusment
  • weight,very heavy,i put my rock shox tora from my 6300 on my 3900 biek and its a big improvment.
  • Very heavy, poor dampening, doesn’t provide confort.
  • my opinion the price is too high compared to rockshox forks that cost little bit more.
  • the seals on mine wore out very fast,they expanded so they now got ca 2 mm cap. witch resulted in water and mud got inside the fork.
  • tuned wrong for most people
  • after ca 1 year i got play and clicking sounds and twisting from side to side,play when braking, feels very dangerous to ride that way i did not take it apart so don’t know how much is wrong with it if there is more.

concllusion: this fork is a terrible and way too heavy fork, don’t get this fork. get a real mtb fork from sr suntour or get a rockshox xc, monitou or fox.

i desided to but my rockshox tora sl 2010 on my trek 3900 and upgrade to a new air fork on my 6300. no point in  fixing that xcm fork,service plus parts will cost almost as mutch as the fork it self.

i no longer have this fork the store trown it away.