Revised Long-term review: ESI Chunky extra chunky silicone grips

Here is an improved review, since the last time I posted a review on these,

I have used Esi grips since 11.2015 until January 2018, so I am very familiar with them.  But now finally I revised the review, new pictures, improved text.  I wish I did it sooner but did not get around to doing I until now.

I put them thru its paces, I rode with them in -11c to summer heat, in most weather conditions.

I went from hard and too small diameter grips to Easton MTB grips, which was torture to ride with so I had to get something better, but ESI Grisp were just a temporary solution.

I went for the 34mm diameter grips, they fit me perfectly.

I have been using these grips since 2015, they definitely work, but not for long, So I had to swap them out for a fresh set after few weeks.


  • Shock absorbing
  • feels great without gloves
  • 10 colour choices, I got green fits my fuel-ex perfectly.
  • stays in place, does not slide off.
  • reduces hand numbness – fatigue- arm pump
  • easy to clean with a hard brush
  • not effected much by the subzero temperatures, they work in the summer heat and in the freezing winter.
  • they can be used in the winter, I have ridden few days with -10  and more, with the grips, without any issues.


  • not as grippy as rubber grips.
  • but they only last me 4 weeks, they become too soft and lose the shock absorption, and at that point, they are torture to ride, so they are expensive in longterm. In the  In the winter I use 2.1 Suomi Gazza Extrem studded tyres with 4psi higher pressure than my summer setup with Maxxis 2.3 tyres, which becomes torture to ride with once the grips lose the shock absorption feature, first comes the loss of shock absobtion then the grip becoems more fragile and gets ripped apart easier and easier, then they begin to spin slowly, but this happens over the course of smany weeks, with higher wolume tyres I could ride them for bit longer, but not with my current winter setup, it’s torture, so I had to swap to fresh grips every 4th week, which cost way too much.
  • birds can damage the grips like here, after riding with them more than a week after the bird attacking them there are holes so deep I can see the handlebar, so if you crash hard you will rip the grips part.



I can’t recommend these grips.

I recommend looking into other options instead.

The end caps are junk,  you can replace them with proper alloy end caps instead.



Putting them on & off:

The best way to install the grips is by using a compressor.

here are some great videos:


I put the grip under running hot tap water to heat expand it or fill the sink up with hot tap water, but a using compressor instead is much easier.

What you should NOT do:

DON’T USE A SCREWDRIVER TO PUT THEM ON AND OFF!!! It will damage the grips on the inside and the grip can rip apart.

Don’t use hairspray, even if the bike mechanic tells you to, it might stink, and make the grip slipperier on the inside.  it’s dangerous stuff to breathe in.



24.02.2018 Revised 3 Years Review: 2014 Trek Fuel EX7 29er – flexible frame

I  needed a full suspension bike, at minimum 120 mm travel, I got the best bike, I could as fast as I could.but I knew I might need to change few things, but I test rode the bike around the store, but that was not good enough test.

It was a lot better to ride than the 2010 Trek 6300.

This is my first full suspension bike, and my first 29er, I have never ridden other full suspension bikes, so can’t compare it to others.

Don’t let others decide for you if 29er is the right choice for you.The ride quality not only depends on the bike but the person sitting on it and the correct size.

The first rides:

I noticed the bike was also easier to ride, the steering was easier, I also noticed the bike is more stable than my 6300, pulling wheelies was easier to control,  the front was heavier so it helped to make wheelies more stable.

I think this bike is easy to ride, much better compared to my 6300(100mm stem & 720 bars) even its heavier it goes much faster, no matter if its downhill steep up hills, even doing a wheelie.

The bike does not accelerate as fast as a 26er would do, but it maintains the speed longer, but the bike is fast & stable in corners.

Technical climbs is not an issue with this bike, but with most trail bikes there is not.

I got a Dropper post

the lack of dropper post hides the capabilities of this bike.

with a dropper post, I can get my body in the correct position for going downhill.

Even the dropper post adds more weight, it gets you in the correct pedalling position when its up, and for technical sections, you just lower it, and the capabilities of the bike increases, the dropper post made me alto faster in descents and on technical climbs.

The frame supports both internal and external dropper post routing.

The cable should go alongside the brake hose, For the Race Face Turbine 440mm 150mmdrop dropper post.

if you use 1x drivetrain, you can use the front dérailleur routing for the external dropper post.

My setup:

work pretty well for me I am a bit more than I am somewhere close to 75 kg with gear on.So I ride with 210 in the shock and 110 psi in the fork, 6 clicks rebound both front and rear, which work pretty well for me, I am somewhere close to 75 kg with gear on.

I am ca 182 cm high, the 18,5 frame and the 29 wheel is perfect for me

The bike is 13,600 Grams in size 18,5 so it could be too heavy for you if you really need a light bike, but for me, it’s not that heavy I can ride pretty fast with it anyway, in fact, it’s a huge upgrade from my 26 inches 6300.


after 2 seasons the original bearing in the chainstay worn out,(by worn out I mean they did not turn smoothly and they made noise even when I repacked them with grease, but they had no noticeable play in them) so I had to change them,So I did,but even though I have had repacked them with grease once, I think I should have done it sooner, but I  replaced the original bearings with Enduro bearings, and I regularly maintained them so they lasted alto longer.I have been riding with the second bike in -11 degrees, and on wet rainy days, and all kinds of weather, I had to repack the bearings after few weeks of winter riding, but the bearings were running smooth, So I guess I will just have to check the bearings more often.



  • handlebar got stripes to help you with brake and gear lever alignment.
  • Shimano Deore SL-M610 Shifter triggers give smooth and very easy to shift, a lot better than the 2010 Deore, more ergonomic than the past model like the 2010 from my 6300 bike.
  • holes for internal cable routing for a dropper post
  • external top tube routing support for shock remote or a mechanical dropper post.
  • the bike is stable in the descend and climb
  • the frame got SCG-05 chain guide mount
  • decentent clearance for my feet and legs



  • The Bontrager Duster 29 wheel set is way too flexible & get untrue way too fast, 
  • I experienced some knocking, clicking sound from the spokes grinding, in turns or when the temperature was way over 20 deg Celsius, but upgrading to a proper wheelset fixed the issue.
  • The headset bearings failed after few months:
  • Top bearings were the first to fail.

    This is from a bike rode few months. (bike Nr1) I was doing headset bearing service, and there was a lot of crushed metal in the grease, all over. the rest snapped when I touched it. Some bearing balls fell out when I took the bearings out of the cup, the other is crushed or they were never there in the first place, but I don’t know. The bearings on the other bike lasted for longer, but they wore out quite fast, But I switched to Cane Creek bearings, the type with the seal on top and bottom, they lasted for much longer.

    • the rims had alloy machining residue, on the inside of the rim, it came out of the spoke holes.
    • bad selection of components
    • front resin brake pads got worn out in ca. 2 months, I upgraded to Shimano J02A IceTech, but this worn out the Resing only rotors.
    • The suspension:

      do not have every adjustment there is, but the CTD (climb, trail, descend), But I need more adjustment.

    • Shock & fork compression goes out of adjustment, if you ride fast down a hill and over kerbs, down technical trails, or riding fast over technical trails, this has happened quite often, I had to use zip ties to lock the dial on the for and shock, this also happens on Fit grip dial, which I have on one of the bikes because it got replaced under warranty on service.


    • Saddle: Bontrager Evoke 2 choice is not no great.



    • The saddle grips well.
    • it flexes and got cushioning
    • I don’t feel the rail inserts
    • the foam cushioning does not work that well, my weight compress it all the way down(  I am somewhere between 170 and 180 KG + gear)
    • I can feel folded synthetic leather where the fabric and the synthetic leather is stitched
    • the saddle is not so comfortable as it should be, I can feel the sides of the saddle.(I notice it if I use the climb mode on the rear shock)

      I can feel the bump where the fabric and pleather is, I can feel the side of the saddle
    • The screws on the seat post are too long for mounting lower saddles with shorter rails, the Bontrager saddle got the rails higher s other is more space between the saddle and the screws.if you are using a carbon saddle with higher rail profile, instead of round rails, it’s nice to have long screws, but not that if you plan to upgrade saddle to a lower profile saddle like I did, you might need to cut the screws. But I upgraded to Fabric Scoop Shallow Race, which is more comfortable for me, but the screws on the seat post hit the plastic underneath the saddle, so I had to replace them, but later I upgraded to dropper post so the issue was gone anyway.



the 10 spd 11-36 x3: I don’t need the 42 tooth ring at the front where I live,  but if you have long roads or steep 40 degrees downhill(where you can run out of gears with 36T) its nice with a 42T ring.I have upgraded to 11-46T cassette and 36T Race Face Narrow Wide ring, I will test it out without chain-guide.

You can watch  Seth’s Bike Hacks review to see how the narrow wide chaining performs

  • The rear bolts on the Evo Link are getting loose very fast, it takes few weeks for them to get loose, but the other bolts stay tight, I think this is caused by the flex in the chain stay and down tube, which then flexes the chainstay so the bolts get loose.

The Shimano Deore BL-M615 brake is awful as they flex causing the threads for the Torx screws to fail. On one the main bike/the bike with hamburger bell) the threads on the rear/right master cylinder failed, so the brake was leaking fluid, and NO I did not over tighten the Torx screws, first I tough the brake just needed a bleed, so I bled them, so there was no air but the next day I lost a lot of braking powers, there was air in the master cylinder, and oil was leaning,I checked the screws they were just spinning endlessly, I opened up the master cylinder and I saw the threads were polished away, I don’t thin kit was caused by a crash, at least not this particular brake, because I have never hit the brakes in a crash with this master cylinder.

The brake felt nice and worked for a short while, but they are just too weak.

  • one of the frames had uneven welding for the zip ties the gap was too small for the big zip ties on the upper cable guide on the down tube,.I could use bit zip tie all over but the one spot.
  • The first months the bolts did not show any signs of wear, after a lot of maintenance work, but after that, they showed signs of wear and got very worn, the hex slot measured at 40.70mm.
  • The bolts:

    they have tight tolerances, so the park tool Allen/Hex bits & keys fit in tight, but of course, bolts wear out, but these bolts got worn out quite fast in my opinion, few bearing services and they were worn out.

    from the left, the original worn out bolt & to the right the replacement bolt, which does not have the Hex all the way through, but it starts from the middle.

    I replaced the bolts in the rear of the Evo link

    This bolt rounded off very easily, I barely turned the Allen key it just shredded the bolt.
    I had to make the hole a bit bigger to remove the already damaged material, then I hammered a bigger Torx bit into the bolt as hard as I could, until I felt it sat firmly in, I then carefully took it out and used Torx key to remove the bolt.

  • Noticeably Flexy down tube, chain stays & seat stays fast wearing chainstay & rocker link Which are causing many issues:

I think the damage in the Evo link is caused by the flex in the frame, forcing the shock into the Evo link. the Evo link is also quite stiff, but not everything on the frame is so lack of stiffness in other palaces makes this frame horrible.I noticed the bike was frame & the wheels were too flexible the first months I rode the bike, but when leaning the bike against something with rear wheel only I could see it flex, I upgraded to stiffer wheels, which greatly improved the almost constant tyre rub, upgraded cranks which improved the ride greatly, but this also affected the flex in the frame, which already was horrible, but I needed stronger & stiffer cranks, so that’s where the Turbine & Atlas came in.

Frame flexing into the tyre is causing the inner tube I wrapped the chainstay to tear the rubber part sticks out and rubs against the tyre.

Mis-aligned/pushed out/dislocated bearings:

The issues were worse over time, so in October 2017 it got to the point where I had to press in the bearings in the Evo link after every ride, even riding on pavement without any aggressive moves, or hard technical trails,  what did it that day was just riding on a bike path, the rear end felt awkward, I could feel it happening, eventually I heard squeaking, which was the seat stay rubbing against the Evo Link.

This picture shows the bearings dislocated.
So I had to press the back in place, in this picture they’re pressed in.
This is due to the bearings moving due to too flexible 2014 Trek Fuel Ex 7 29er frame

damaged paint due to slipping bearing, the left bearings were almost ruined, it was quite rough, so I installed new bearings.
There you can see the bearing is so far out that the arms were girding.
  • Bent rear derailleur hanger caused by flex in the bb area, causing the hanger to bend under load because the chain line changes too. Such extreme, and twisting the chain, this is why I am sure the time I bent a KMC x 11 silver, and crushed the threads in the axle on the Shimano m8000 rear derailleur cage, was caused by the flex in the frame. I have had to true the hanger after almost every long ride the past months, this is getting very annoying.
  • The bent cassette cogs happen on several cassettes I had to use a flat head screwdriver to get the cogs straight.

A Xt m8000 cassette was also bent due to the flex in the frame, which happens very often in September & October 2017

In September-October 2017 the chain wear got significantly worse. This is basically a new chain which will soon wear out, I did not decrease it, I just rode few times in a week, and did few minutes of MTB, I was sick so I could not do much riding because I was sick, but this is a new record in chain wear, the hanger had a significant bend, at least between 10-20 degrees.
The bike was always flexible, I felt it was too flexible for the first months I rode it, I had to upgrade many components, stiffer wheels with proper spoke nipples & hubs, stiffer cranks, wider bars, better drivetrain, but the frame was too flexible but the summer of 2017 I had so many problems with the drivetrain & bearings, that its really annoying

    You can see the tyre is pretty close to the chainstay.

  • I would not recommend using tyres wider than 2.3, the seat stay & chainstay are too close for bigger tyres.
  • SHIMANO RT56 RESIN ONLY rotors, After few months of use with Metal pads I wore out the rotors, the holes are rounded off, and I lost a lot of bite.

Noticeable flex in the Shimano Deore M552 crank arms, the cranks were way too flexible for me, the cranks failed on both of the bikes, without any abuse, so faulty crank arms, or they are just too weak for a track stand, flexy cranks like this should not be on a trail bike.

  • like any suspension bike, there is some pedal-bob, but it’s minimal, I get about 10% of the travel.
  • no chain guide, the chain fell off more than 10 times the 2015 season, when jumping and riding ruff places hard, I jumped from 3 steps of stairs and if fell off)
  • Awful housing routing, the housing gets kinked in a twisted S shape, causing premature wire coating wear & housing wear.
  • (as you can see the paint got stripped off by the chain)
  • one Allen bolt, on the EVO link, was overtightened from the factory, but I managed to unscrew it by using warm water and Allen key in the freezer for few minutes & the big bolt on the chain stay and seat tube fell off, but the bike shop replaced it.
  • chain fall off when jumping sometimes, my plan is to get 11 speed and get a chain guide.
  • Tyres: Bontrager XR3 Expert, is not a very lasting tyre, because of the soft rubber, l the rear tyre lasted me few weeks, so I upgraded the rear with SE4 Team Issue tyres, which has last me to the winter came.
  • the weight is 13,6 on 18,5(virtual)(real 17.5)
  • the Fox 32 has flex/twisting, from side to side, I am about 75 kg, There is noticeable twisting in the fork when riding over huge roots fast, or through potholes, or front wheel pivot, this is quite common for 32 mm stanchion forks, my Rock Shox Tora sl 2010, Marzocchi Corsa 2012, the flex is a lot less than these forks, but when the wheel is on it can be flexed to about the same, but when wheel is off the fox 32 Evo is clearly stiffer.
  • no dropper post.
  • Bontrager RL(Race Lite) lock on grips: got good grip, but they are too hard a or me and give no dampening.19525248243_5d21846fca_b
  • 3 chainrings for a trail bike is not optimal, the problem is over big roots or obstacles you can hit it some time times, and as bigger the chainring is as more chance there is for you to crash or damage the ring.
  • The chain-stay protector does not work well, the chain will hit the zip-ties, and they will snap so the protector will be loose and will scratch the paint,and because it does not cover the whole chain-stay the inside of the chainstay will get hit by the chain, I replaced the protector with an old inner-tube instead.
  • chain slap on the Front Dérailleur: which crapes of the pant and make visible scrapes on the puller arm.
  • 24391495434_71c35e73f8_b
    Chain slap scratches
  • 24726582220_68fffd2f17_b
    Chain slap scratches
  • Bike nr1 got a bend in the headtube wall:
  • I have not received any answer why this happens or what could cause it, I will update you on that since I do.
This is how the crank looked like before it eventually failed.
  • like any suspension bike, there is some pedal-bob, but it’s minimal, I get about 10% of the travel.
  • no chain guide, the chain fell off more than 10 times the 2015 season, when jumping and riding ruff places hard, I jumped from 3 steps of stairs and if fell off)
  • Awful housing routing, the housing gets kinked in a twisted S shape, causing premature wire coating wear & housing wear.
  • (as you can see the paint got stripped off by the chain)
  • one Allen bolt, on the EVO link, was overtightened from the factory, but I managed to unscrew it by using warm water and Allen key in the freezer for few minutes & the big bolt on the chain stay and seat tube fell off, but the bike shop replaced it.
  • chain fall off when jumping sometimes, my plan is to get 11 speed and get a chain guide.
  • Tyres: Bontrager XR3 Expert, is not a very lasting tyre, because of the soft rubber, l the rear tyre lasted me few weeks, so I upgraded the rear with SE4 Team Issue tyres, which has last me to the winter came.
  • the weight is 13,6 on 18,5(virtual)(real 17.5)
  • the Fox 32 has flex/twisting, from side to side, I am about 75 kg, There is noticeable twisting in the fork when riding over huge roots fast, or through potholes, or front wheel pivot, this is quite common for 32 mm stanchion forks, my Rock Shox Tora sl 2010, Marzocchi Corsa 2012, the flex is a lot less than these forks, but when the wheel is on it can be flexed to about the same, but when wheel is off the fox 32 Evo is clearly stiffer.
  • no dropper post.
  • Bontrager RL(Race Lite) lock on grips: they are way too hard for me, but got good grip, but they are too hard for me and give no dampening, so I replaced them with ESI Extra Chunky green grips in is a pretty good match.19525248243_5d21846fca_b
  • 3 chainrings for a trail bike is not optimal, the problem is over big roots or obstacles you can hit it some time times, and as bigger the chainring is as more chance there is for you to crash or damage the ring.
  • The chain-stay protector does not work well, the chain will hit the zip-ties, and they will snap so the protector will be loose and will scratch the paint,and because it does not cover the whole chain-stay the inside of the chainstay will get hit by the chain, I replaced the protector with a old inner-tube instead.
  • chain slap on the Front Dérailleur: which crapes of the pant and make visible scrapes on the puller arm.
  • 24391495434_71c35e73f8_b
    Chain slap scratches
  • 24726582220_68fffd2f17_b
    Chain slap scratches
  • Bike nr1 got a bend in the headtube wall:
  • I have not received any answer why this happens or what could cause it, I will update you on that since I do.
  • Full Specs:,3/Trek/Fuel-EX-7-29,12595
  • Other reviews:

While working on my bike  I noticed  the frame protection I put on a while back, looked awkward, it looked like there was a dent in the frame,  So I  I took a closer look and indeed there was a dent

When I took the fork off to send it for service, I took pictures of it. But there was never an impact on the frame, to make such dent in the frame by impacting it I would have to land on a sharp object,  in that exact spot, which I didn’t. I of course never rode with the bearing outside of the frame with loose fork.

After replaced Evo Link & chainstay:

The bearings in that came with the frame parts were crunchy, they made crunchy noises, they had little grease, I had to grease them.

After I had replaced the chainstay and rocker link, the bearing dislocation issues were gone, for a while at least, but the bolts back in the rocker link kept loosening up, which I heard and read about, apparently loose bolts are still an issue on the newer bikes.
The bent cassette cogs were still happening, but the premature chain wear was gone, the chain wore at the normal rate.
The gear hanger was getting out of true, but nowhere near as bad as when the worn out chainstay was there.

December 2017 I noticed wear on the crown race on bike nr1:
Worn crownrace December 17, 2017

(Click on image to see all pictures in The album)

I got the forks back fro service, but I put on the fork that the less worn crown race, but after few weeks it also showed signs of wear. at the beginning of February 2018 the crown race has been worn out:

I also noticed the bearings sit skewed in the headtube

there was also very noticeable signs of wear on the bearings:

very noticeable scratches.
The forks have been serviced by Ccyklon and the CSU has been replaced to the 2018 model.

February 2018 update on the frame issues:

The seat stay becomes twisted

with the wheel installed the linkage is rubbing.

Damage to the new chainstay:

Crushed alloy from bearing slot:

I had to install the seat stay from the other frame.

In this period did not do any technical trail riding, but I rode some skitracks and rodeo n pavement, rode some stairs few times, did some bunny hops some wheelies, but nothing out of the ordinary, a trail frame should take this, but this frame, can barely take any commuting.

Upgrades I did:

  • 24173105230_3bcbca165c_c
  • the pressfit Shimano BB, is hard to remove without destroying it, but I had  to switch to BB30 press-fit,  I could have chosen 24 cranks,  I But I wanted 30mm spindle, direct chainring, So I went for Race Face Turbine cranks, but by doing So I had to switch the Shimano BB with to 30mmPressfit BB, So I went with the Race Face BB30, but  unlike the Shimano bb the race face BB has the has the bearings pressed directly in the BB shell, and has no plastic insert on the inner ring in the on the bearing, so the Shimano BB will not wear the spindle, but as the RaceFace has not, there will eventually be wear on the axle, but So far I have not seen any visible wear, I like how Chris King does it, the bearing play can be fine-tuned, adapters are used, the adapters keep the spindles from wearing & easily switch to other spindles/cranksets, the bearings are better sealed from contaminants and is easy to repack/regrease with special tool.  So that is what I wish for my next trail bike. So this is why I went for Chris King Threadfit BB for the 6300, I have seen a lot about Praxis BB lately, which I will look into further.
  • After upgrading to the much stiffer Race Face Turbine Cranks, I felt more of the flex in that the frame is flexing on the right side in the chainstay when turning /leaning the bike to the left, and it hits the tyre 2.3 tyre, I have a tube wrapped around the chainstay, It’s  between 1-2 mm. So by upgrading to the stiffer cranks instead of the cranks flexing the chain stay is flexing, so the flex in the frame is more significantly more noticeable with a stiffer crank. But riding while seated on asphalt the flex is not as noticeable.
This is how the Race Face BB30 looks like inside the bike. But I wish it had better protection against wet weather.

Sometime in 2016 I uninstalled the bottom bracket, I was about to install the new BB when I noticed, there was crushed alloy there.


The bike is horrible.

  • the frame has design flaws causing fast wearing chainstay and cracks in rocker link, which cause many other issues, so it’s not good enough for me.
  • I need a much stiffer & stronger frame & stiffer fork.
  • replacing the tyre is the first thing you have to do.
  • If you ride very steep downhills a, A dropper post will definitely be the next upgrade.
  • the bad choices of components, and flexy frame, is Disappointing, the must be some flex in a frame or it will snap, but this is too much in one place.
  • The bike rides well, very stable no matter how I rode it,but ,trek did not do a good job on selecting all the components, the drive train is outdated, The wheels are too flexible and get out of true way too easily, triple chainrings is outdated, and the crank arms have too much flex. In my opinion, most riders do not need triple chainring setup, wider range cassette just replaces the Front RD so there is no point in having a front Rd.
  • Bad selection of components and too flexible frame make this a bad choice.
  • A trail bike should handle major abuse, a proper bicycle should handle an average weight rider to a heavier muscular or slightly overweight rider,  this bike can clearly not,  I am 182 and weight weighed about 74kg with gear on last time I weigh my self, but I am sure I ma heavier due to more muscle mass & heavier gear.
  • a trail bike should handle a rider commuting or sprinting, which this bike does not, the increasing issues might be to fatigue, so basically, the frame wearing out, and becoming more & more flexible.
  • Trek has been contacted: I translated it to English: ”The bearing in the Closed Convert link at the rear wheel has moved out of the chainstay. This happens when the chain has expanded, so the bearing is no longer sit securely. This can also contribute to the wheel rubbing the frame.” Even If this is the case, there is downtube Flex so much it takes the chainstays with it, so it will still be too flexible, So I basically need the whole frame that is much stiffer & stronger, that can withstand my weight, but of course frames eventually wear out, but this bike is bout 3 years.

Suomi Tyres Extreme 294 2.1 26″ & 29” Revised 3 season review


These tires give excellent grip, but they, of course, don’t stop you from sliding on very slippery ice when you turn too fast or brake too hard, no tyre will.

the strong stink goes away after few weeks of use so the stink will not irritate you when you got the bike indoors.

after about 4 months of use, there were some cracks in the tyres, which have been caused by broken glass, some studs fell out some snapped in half, but studs can be replaced.


  • sticky well gripping tyre
  • the tyre is stiff enough for the studs to sit securely, which is not the case for WXC 300
  • good pattern, that helps with getting the mud away and gripping the surface.
  • Does not lose studs easily
  • fast rolling
  • they can last several seasons, at least 2 or 3 probably more if you are not too crazy with them.  Since 2016 I have put these tyres through its paces with hard single track, riding on ice, riding street, I have dropped jumped, I rode down & upstairs, and they survived.
  • they are not as loud as WXC 300


  • due to the 2.1 studded tyre will feel like horrible no matter of the rim width, with a lot of vibrations,lowering pressures means folding & hitting the rim,  for this  to not happen I have to add 4 psi more from usual setup, so instead of 28psi rear it’s 32 psi rear & 28 psi front, so when the Esi grips wore out & got softer my hands hurt due to the massive increase in vibrations.
  • they got a strong stink to them when they are new, which last few weeks.

about 4 months of use:

Suomi Tyres Extreme 294 26"

Suomi Tyres Extreme 294 26"

Suomi Tyres Extreme 294 26"

Rear evo snow covered _20170222_144808844


If you don’t mind the harsh ride, But proper grips help, and you want durable tyres these will do the job, But I  might try bigger tyres, but be as durable as Gazza Extremes 294.

Check out Tommi Kivimäki‘s review & set up of  Suomi Tyres Gazza Extremes 294:

Suomi Stud tool:;product=73184;menu=1000,185,191;mid=0;pgc=0;page=3


31.10.2017 updated plus 2 years review: Bergans Airojohka Mens jacket

I have used this jacket for about 2 plus years.

This is not a cycling specific jacket, but a sports jacket, but I think it it’s good for cycling.

The arm zippers:

To close them while riding, you have to do the bicep bodybuilder move, which will hold the jacket in the sleeve in place while you zip it up, do it carefully of course.


  • excellent fit, which you can see in the video above, yes this jacket is very comfortable, there isn’t a point where I feel like it’s annoying or restricting or uncomfortable in any other way, I can move freely.
  • Lightweight
  • easily fit into a backpack, it’s so thin and flexible it’s easy to roll up & fold up to get into the bottom of a backpack.
  • the jacket covers up the neck, which is a necessary feature to have, there are some jackets out there that have too low neck coverage, but of course, I still use 2 Buff’s for maximum coverage, covering my face with one & neck with the other one.
  • Good coverage. I went with size XL, size L could fit me, for walking, but I went with the XL so I had full coverage, so the when my arms are down my hands are inside the jacket, but when having it on when riding and moving in all directions and stretching my arms and moving my upper body backwards, the jacket covers everything, and I don’t get wet.26429134494_b9afe8dc82_b
  • The velcro sleeve wrist adjustment works great, there is great room for big ski gloves to go on the inside of the sleeve, and the Velcro adjustment is a good proof solution to adjust for maximum protection/coverage, no matter if you use huge gloves or thin gloves, you can adjust it to fit with ease.
  • well placed venting zippers, so when I began to be too hot, I just unzipped them and I stayed the perfect temperature.but when wearing a backpack you can’t fully unzip the zippers, but that is not a big deal, But you have to be careful unzipping it, as these zippers are more fragile than the heavy duty zippers.26429093764_582e974c2a_b
  • the hood fit perfectly under the helmet, and it has adjustment i the back head and 2 in the front, but it is not in the way of the helmet adjustment which is great.25540285094_bae8fc92a8_b
  • Excellent fit, perfect for mountain biking.
  • the adjustments are placed in the perfect spots.
  • 2 big & well placed front pockets
  • the jacket has an adjustment in the hood & the bottom, which is also a feature that is necessary to keep water & mud out, it’s easily adjusted.
  • I can wear the POC elbow pads without any fit issues.
  • the front of the hood is stiffer than the rest
  • you can roll it and put it in your backpack, it takes little space. so its perfect for me, as the weather can change from warm summer weather to cold and rainy weather the same day.
  • I have ridden in -9 Celsius with only Swix base layer and a jersey under this jacket, I stayed warm, but I also did a ride in -11 Celsius I stayed warm but if I was still too long I felt bit colder, so if I am very active, I won’t get cold in -11 degrees, but, if your activity is not intense, another jersey should do fine.


acceptable durability:

The jacket fabric:

I crashed few times, but the latest crash, I jumped a root over & over a log and landed, due to my back twisting and I lost control, and my bike went to the left I went on the right and, the jacket’s sleeve landed on the gravel-covered asphalt, I got a small hole, on the left sleeve. but after being used for a really long time afterwards the hole did not get any bigger.


The velcro stitching on the sleeves loosened up, but it is to expect & long term use.


  • The Zippers:

the zipper is definitely the biggest weak point of this jacket.

2 of the lower pins in the zipper, bent so I had to bend it back, but it came keeps coming back to pent position, I don’t know why this happened, maybe in one of the few crashes I had.


This jacket is a seasonless jacket, it can be used no matter the season, in my opinion, no matter if you run, ride, or ski.

But the Zipper has to be improved, it’s too easy to damage it, This is the first of this type of zipper I have ever used, But I have used many clothes with YKK zipper, but they all were bigger.


Flickr album

Product pages:

I found this German review:

2 Months Review of TRP Spyke caliper & Spyke ML800 & ML930 levers

I have used these brakes for over 2 months on 2 bikes without any issues.

And I have put these brakes through their paces.

I don’t think I have to wait much more than 2 months before publishing this review, as these brakes are mechanical brakes, So not much can go wrong, But I will update you if there is something more to write about.

Both levers good enough feel, but the ML930 has a smooth surface on the lever blade, the ML800 has a textured surface with a Spyke logo, but the white paint on the logo wears off after few weeks or days.

Spyke Levers:

The Spyke logo on the lever blade actually gives more grip as its engraved.


  • Rech adjustment so these levers will work well for a kids bike.
  • Excellent barrel adjuster, it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.


  • up and down play in the lever blade
  • No hinged mount, so you have to remove the grips, but for me this is not a deal-breaker.

Product page:

The brake levers combined with the Spyke caliper results in a rougher lever feel than Any hydraulic brakes I have tried so far,
this is due to the return spring in the caliper, it can really be felt through the lever body & lever, the return spring i nthe lever can also get rough, so you need to lube the moving parts in the lever to avoid sqeaking or other noises,


ML930 levers:

The lever body has visible flex while braking, But I can’t notice it while braking.

TRP offers a carbon version of this lever, which is ML940.Product image


  • Excellent barrel adjuster, it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.
  • Lighter than the ML800 Spyke levers
  • Hinged mount for easy removal
  • Rech adjustment so these levers will work well for a kids bike.
  • I have these levers on both of my fuel ex 29ers, and they the levers on both survived crashes, on one it survived over the bar crash, where the bike landed parked upsidedownThe brake on tother bike like it survived a fall about 1 meter from a concrete wall.


  • Same up & down play as the Spyke levers

TRP ML 930 levers fittet on a 800mm Race Face Sixc handlebar, I have them setup 3cm from the grips.


38545312311_56f4755a28_oThe dual arm has is quite harder to pull up compared to Tektro single piston brakes, but this does not bother me This is caused by the return spring.

the Spyke brakes offer one finger braking, as powerful as the Shimano m615 brake, but without the issues of leaks and impossible to get seals(without contacting Shimano).

The Pad mud cover give some protection, but they definitely make a difference, mine was had sand on them when riding in wet conditions, there is no way to protect the pads, things will get in the rotor and can get stuck and make noises.

Note that this is the wrong way toclamp the wire, clam it agianst the arm. after soem testing I can say I feel the difference in power.


  • well engineered, caliper, the narrow design gives good clearance so you won’t hit your heals on the brake.
  • the 3 mm piston adjustment, makes these brakes easy to set up.
  • barrel adjusters that are easy to use and by figners fit nicely on them, to adjust the wire tension I turn the barrel adjuster, and hold my finger on the swingarm, when I feel the arm move I back off.
  • With barrel adjuster both at the lever & on the caliper, you get a good amount of adjustment.
  • rubber seal helps to keep dirt from coming in the hoses.
  • Easy to align The calipers: To align the callipers with the Hope floating rotors, I screw in the outside pistons about ca 3 quarters, and the inside piston about ca 2 quarters, then I tighten the caliper bolts and loosen the pistons, which leaves me with perfectly aligned brakes.
  • easy to assemble, & get the cable clamped.
Note that this is the wrogn way toclamp the wire, clam it agianst the arm. after somw testing I can say I feel the difference in power. Even with the wire clamped wrong these brakes were powerful enough for trail riding, but you shou

Verdict, these brakes performed well so far, so far I don’t see any reason to switch to back to hydraulic brakes, But hydraulics.

To keep the brakes having consistent braking power and modulation, you only have to use thread lock on the piston threads and have proper wire tension, and check it regularly. And of course, adjust the pads inwards as they wear out.

The semi-metallic pads give excellent g braking power, and they held up well for a few months, and I think they will last a few months more.


If you get the Caliper & Rotor pack, caliper adaptors are included 

Enter a caption


Updated REVIEW: Rapid Racer Products Enduro Guard 200mm/large

It protects you and the fork from the most of the mud and dirt and stones, but if its very muddy and its splashing mud from every direction or other riders it does not help much with seal guard.32732697525_afef6fc554_o

but the seal guard I have used it almost 7 months, and its still going strong, evo but the guy in the store tried to mount one white guard on one of my other bikes and it snapped(according to him).

enduro guard large green mounted on a FOX Evo29” no matter the size of  of the travel i think you should get size large, more protection the better, unless its a small kids bike.



As you can see the seal guard don’t help much, the featured picture shows it even better, as the seal is covered with snow.

After long ride, I discovered that it failed. I heard a lot of banging noises, when jumping or riding off a drop or hitting a root and now I know why.


Official site:


Not Recommended, It failed after being used ca 1 year on my main bike,1 winter in 2016/2017, and few weeks on my spare bike, it’s not durable enough.

Give light protection against mud or gravel in your face, but does not catch everything in bad weather, my goggles will still get wet, muddy

You will definitely need a bigger & longer fender/mudguard if you plan do a mud bath.

Updated Review: 2015 Poc Index DH Vpd 2.0

Post originally posted Dec 16, 2015& Updated 12.01.2017

POC is well known for their protection product.

I have several POC products now and I recommend checking them out.

This glove is my favorite glove so far.


  • very comfy
  • light weight
  • Velcro strap
  • perfect fit.
  • Excellent padding
  • they cost the same as the giro remedy X  gloves and are way better when it comes to comfort & Poc offers protection padding but Giro does not.


  • The adjustment strap is twisting.

because these gloves were actually bit too big(size large) I changed to 2016 Resistance strong gloves(size medium),the palm on some of the gloves worn out, I think this is caused by the material used & the venting holes in them, so far the Index Dh has been holding up OK,but I guess over long period of time they will eventually wear too.

Flickr album:

Conclusion: Recommended, for durability I recommend getting Index DH over the newer 2016 Resistance Strong gloves.

In my opinion, they are currently the best MTB gloves on the market right now.

Product page: (12.02.2017 er borte/ it’s gone);product=85527;menu=1000,18,56;mid%5B456%5D=1;page=3

review: Fox 180 MX jersey

Size comparison:

Mavic int L/EU, GER M

Alpinestars L


My size for this jersey is XL, L will be too short arms.


  • very cool jersey, it’s so cool I can almost not feel that I’m wearing it, So its cooler than the Mavic Crossmax jerseys I have.
  • Wearing protection is not an issue, because of the perfect fit.
  • True to size Fit
  • Perfect with elbow pads.
  • not too baggy
  • The collar is not too big, which I think Mavic Crossmax had.


  • None if you are careful, something can get hooked on it and pull the threads, but this is going to happen with all thin clothing.


Verdict: Recommended

It’s a jersey, so there is not much to say about

Review:Weldtite Cycle oil

Time tested: few years


  • Works excellent for lubricating the chain or suspension
  • Works great on the chain in dry conditions, and does not get the chain too dirty.
  • Cheap


  • It stinks, I don’t know what Weldtite have changed but it stinks more than before.
  • Too short tip on the bottle
  • A screw on cap would be better, to avoid spillage better.
  • The tip is bit short & thick so a bit tight when lubing rear dérailleurs.


recommended if you want a cheap lube that does the job and does not add extra issues, But if you are willing to ignore that the tip is a it short.

Some of the best Kids/small person MTB bikes November 2016

Note that this article is work in progress, at least now you know some more brands or bikes.

These bikes are in no particular order.

If any of you have found more bikes or child specific stuff, be so kind to comment below to share with us.

I have no experience with these bikes, So I will say my opinion, and my experiences with the components used,I will not decide for you.

This article will be update when I find more good bikes
order and title of article might change but I publish this right ow so you can see it, sorry if there are mistakes and typos.

there are few kids bike brands that make good bikes for kids,and there are even fewer adult bike brands that make kids good kids bikes,and there are not many kids brand that make good kids bikes for 24 and 20 inch wheel size.

Some facts:

Kids should have as safe,light,strong,and as well performing bikes as adults.

for the kids to enjoy riding the bikes for a long time the bikes must be light.

Fit is very important,Adjustable reach for brake levers, right crank arm length,saddle that fit kids,I have seen kids riding on saddles that are painful to sit on,the shape of the saddle the length of the saddle the height/depth of it,Its all very important,a flexible saddle is a must In my opinion for optimal comfort.

When you want to buy a bike please ignore the silly marketing tricks, like using using A celebrity or pro riders name, or a company’s name..

this is a good example of what I mean: Hyper Cam Zink Edition is a good example:

I see many kids got awful bikes, and jump and ride downstairs jump off walls, and they do it on awful and dangerous bikes. the kids I saw ridden like Seth does in this video.

Shame so many kids ride on bikes that is junk,and they don’t know how dangerous it is,and the parents got no clue.

but in this guide I will show some the best kids bike I have found on the internet.(custom builds only commercial products will be listed here)

In my opinion bikes like these should be illegal to sell, but sadly they are not.

And then there are the fake dirt jump bikes that are marketed as bikes that can withstand abuse. which they can’t do at all, bikes with Sr Suntour xct and xcm forks,the plastic adjustment, pops out, flexing, knocking sounds, or almost no rebound, depending on the model.

Some bikes have warning stickers on that say the opposite of what the ad say.

I see many kids got awful bikes, and jump and ride downstairs jump off walls, and they do it on awful and dangerous bikes. the kids I saw ridden like Seth does in this video.

If you are a beginner and want to do advanced riding I you need to subscribe to this channel.

Most of the world-wide big bicycles brands,only make cheap awful bikes for the kids, or really basic hard tails.

Many of the Kids MTB guides, are misleading, many of the bikes got awful components.

Many of the kids bikes I have seen are absolutely awful junk.

Almost every thing is wrong with these 100 dollar bikes.

Just some of the things that are wrong with them:

  • they are very heavy,a too heavy bike can be dangerous, the bike was glued to the ground I could no jump it.
  • suspension that does not do the job,the most common fork on these cheap bikes are ZOOM.
  • mechanical disk brakes that are hard to brake with for kids.
  • saddles that is torture to sit on.
  • tyres with no grip

Example of kids bikes that are marketed as mountain bikes, but they are to they are garbage, they are not made for Drop-Offs and jumps, and shredding in the woods.
this is junk 14 KG for a kids bike is  stupid.

There are many choices on the market right now,

but If you want the best speed bike without spending too much I recommend buying from Direct Sale brands.
This video shows me jumping a 24 inch fat bike that is way too heavy:

The List:

Here are some real mountain bikes for kids. all from XC to freeride,downhill

Lil Shredder Prodigy


Lil Shredder Phenom
24″ WheelsRace face narrow wide ring make sure the chain stays on.(unless you pedal at extreme speed oride down 40-50 degrees steep strairs) so A chain guide would be nice.
As you can see, Shimano ZEE RD, which can take a beating,short cage is excellent, specially for kid’s bike so now they get clearance too.

Full suspension 26er trail bikes:

Enter a caption

10 speed 1 by drive trail with shimano Deore shadow plus, and Rock Shox fork  & shock & hydraulic mineral oil disk brakes from shimano. I think this is a nice package,but  a chain guide would be nice
this model got 11 speed 11 speed Sram drive trail and high end fork.
This kona has a budget is a budget built, but no clutch on the rear derailleur not good,I think the extra you would pay for a clutch is worth it.
Transition Ripcord,1&op_usm=0,0,0,0&iccEmbed=0&cache=on,on&bgc=247,247,247

2016 Trek Fuel EX Jr

So far this is the only high -end bike for kids from trek.
X-Fusion Performance Suspension is tuned for lighter riders
10×2 setup makes sure that the kid got all the gear range he or she needs. the bike got Deore shifters which are lighter to push, than the Deore XT M8000, so shifting should not be a issue for kids.
Propain Yuma this bike got good components
Propain Frechdax   Its a shame they put Acera RD, would be nice with Shimano Zee instead,but if the kid crash a lot and ruin RD’s this is not a issue.
Shame they did not spec it with clutch Rd instead.Not as well speed as the other bike in this guide,but this is a Store/bike shop bike, so you can expect it to,not many kids bikes come with a dropper post,I think Norco made the right choice wit this bike by doing so. smaller ring that a adult would so the low gear wont be too hard.As most kids wont ride as fast as adults anyway.
Shimano Zee gives ground clearance.

This bike got no clutch Rd.


Trailcraft Titanium Pineridge 24

16 inch and below:


Cnoc 16 Pro Series Age 4+ / £799.99


Beinn 20 Pro Series
Age 5+ / £999.99
Creig 26 Pro Series Age 9+ / £1499.99
KANIA PYRO X.13 / B.15 / B.18

Dirt jump bikes:

Kotori – 24″

this is a dirt jump bike with decent specs, but it got no front brake so it’s not street legal,at least not in Norway.Fyoutub




Short term Review: Shimano Deore XT M8000 with Race Face Narrow wide

On 10speed Formula/Bontrager Freehub:

If I use the 42T cog on the cassette the chain will fall off when back-pedalling, but when I shift up to 37T cog the chain stays in place no matter how hard I pack pedal.

On Hope Pro 4 freehub:

the Pro 4 free hub, is 11 speed compatible, which means it’s wider, and comes with a spacer,and with 11speed cassette, the  cassette is closer to the frame/more outwards to the right, which gives a better chain line, so the backpedalling issues is gone,Unless you backpedal at unrealistic speed,then it will fall off,but I have done 180 U turns in 1stgear(42T) and the chain never fell off.

So if your rear hub is compatible with a wider freehub,you should get one.

Huge noise reduction when riding:

The first thing I noticed after I upgraded to 1×11 is that all the slapping ,banging and scraping noises are gone from my bike.25185797391_0cfdb76e37_o

Enter a caption

The narrow wide chain-ring will make more sound than the triple chain-ring,  but when ring in rough terrain or jumping, the noise is a lot less than a conventional triple ring set-up would make.

With this set up i used uncut CN-HG701-11 chain.

Shimano Deore XT M8000 I-Spec B shifter:


There is big  difference in the force needed to press to press the small trigger(up shift),but I got used to it after days ,and it did not feel as hard to press, and I like the shifter feel,I get less accidental shifts this way.

The change in gear is instant like promised.

The possibility to shift by bending you finger and do a finger kick motion,which you can’t do with Sram shifters.

(like this( to push the lever/trigger is gone, as the Shimano Deore 10 Spd had.But for me this is a acceptable compromise.

But there will be no accidental shifts

Down shifting:

  • smooth lever-action.
  • There is huge difference in the force required to push the triggers between SL-M610 &  M8000 , so if you plan to upgrade a kids bike you might want to let the kid try it out first,but for the youngest I recommend getting SL-M610 or something similar.
  • you can shift down 4 gears

The I-Spec B shifter will have rotational play,because of the pin system, it’s not avoidable.

The screw came with a lot of  Blue thread-locker,so needed to try few times until I finally got it tight without loose shifter.

But the adjustment screws did not,so you have to buy thread locker for them, I used Loctite 243.

The rear Derailleur:


11-26T M8000 Cassette  & RD m8000 with original link & trek ABP hanger



  • A lot stiffer Clutch system, which is good.
  • Very smooth,fast shifting movement.
  • Esy to service, as long as you got magnetic bowl, and are careful with the round seal fo the spring assambly.


Enter a caption



Race Face Narrow wide:

The chain will not fall off no matter how hard I ride, if it falls off you must be crashing really hard.

There is some drag when pedalling but this is not noticeable when riding, the chain still wants to be on the ring for about a half of a second, but this is impossible to avoid with Narrow Wide.

If you want video proof that narrow wide works watch this video by Seth’s Bike Hacks

Me unboxing the 36T chainring

Down 50 degrees stairs test:

Steep stairs

set up used in test: 2010 trek 6300 1 x10 36-11T cassette Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, with 36T Race Face Narrow Wide chain ring.The chain dropped when it was in 24 Tooth cog, but when I tried in 21 cog it stayed on. Even on stairs that were not that steep probably 40 degrees,the chain fell off.

Pros of 1×11:

  • You get all the gears you need if you just select the right chairing for you.
  • a lot quieter drive train
  • dropping the chain is rare unless you ride in low gears down steep stairs.
  • No front chain rigns to deal with
  • easier to clean the drive train,less dirt & mud on the drive train
  • if you want to sue a chain guide, you can use a single ring chain guide which will be more secure,and look better
  • if you use a wide range cassette with a 9T cog you can get the a pretty high gear as you could with triple rings,but with 11-42 with 36T cassette I get a pretty good range,but once I get on the 1km flat straights I will run out of gears

Cons of 1×11: There are no real cons riding 1×11 it will have faster wearing cassette and chain of course,but that’s not a reason to not upgrade. the 37 and 42 cogs are the fastest wearing cogs, because of the bigger chain angle.

the cassette & chainring wore out at the end of the season like it did with 10×3, maybe few weeks sooner wear. I don’t have to shift as often and skip so many gear so often,so I get less side to side wear on the chain,by using 1×11,so the chain growth will be less.

If i changed the chain,a lot earlier, the cassette and ring would have lasted longer,but I had no spare chains,but I have a stock of chains now.

The Rear derailleur cage will have visible wear, with 1x  setup,because of the chain line the chain will hit the plates,but its not a big deal.


I absolutely recommend Both the Xt m8000 drivetrain and the Race Face Narrow Wide single chaining.

If you are not sure which gear ratio you need:

Flickr Album: Shimano DeoreXT M8000

Flickr Album: Race Face

Short term review: Jagwire WST028 Pro Wire & Housing Cutter


  • The cutting is excellent, as good as its show in their video, no matter if it’s Shimano or Jagwire cable or wire.
  • The spring never falls out unless, you drop the tool.
  • integrated awl


  • If you like the cable to be short at the end, you can’t use the wire end cap criper,unless you want to take the wheel off if you do it on the Rear Derailleur.

To be able to use it,you got to have the cable really long , which is not nice to have

I recommend using Slip-joint pliers ,which i do.


I absolutely recommend this this tool because it’s 4 tools in one.

Official product video


Jagwire Pro Housing Cutter:;product=54359;menu=1000,185,191


Rebranded Jagwire cutter with SRAM branding:00 7915 073 010 Sram  Sram Kabel Kutter Til Wire og strømper;product=29247;menu=1000,185,191;mid=0;pgc=0;page=10


Review:Ass Savers Asssaver wide-useless,it will fall off

i rolled the bike down 1 stair step(i rolled it on the rear wheel only), and the mudguard fell off.

the seat-mounted mud guard are not so good for MTB.

this mud guard is usless for mtb.

the salpping test:

Pros: NONE,bcause it fall off so easy,it’s usless


  • falls off way too easy
  • you can pull it off way too easy

I made 8 holes in it and used zip ties to convert ass guard to a suspension pivot & rear shock guard.



januar 2017 updated review: MOTOREX – BIKE CLEAN

Motorex is really as good as Motorex claims.

Removes dirt that no dish soap, I use it all over the my bikes

Cleans off Muc off dry and wet lubes.

I had no issues with cleaning dirty chain with Muc off wet lube on, wuith  Finish line Grunge Brush with Motorex bike clean  the chain was sparkly clean,but Muc off lubes are easy to clean off,with proper cleaners.

It feels dish washing soap or lube, so its important to rinse it off before a ride, if you use it on your brake pads or discs you will reduce the braking power if you don’t rinse it off.

I have used it Motorex bike clean to clean the brake discs and brake pads, but I rinsed it off well.

I can clean the whole bike with this product.(if there is not extremely sticky stuff on it)

no matter how dirt it was,mud,lube,and other things it removed it with no issue.

But If you want to remove good grease, you can’t with this product, you will have to use a a degreaser.

it works faster than finish line’s cleaner,I can use less of it.

it got a mild smell, does not stink extremely like some other stuff can do.

washing the drive train works well, compared to finish line cleaner,with finish line I had to use their degreaser which stink/smell horrible and still would not remove as well as Motorex’s bike cleaner.

Some stuff even the good cleaners and degreasers struggle with:

but it can’t clean the sticky shimano lube that has been my second fuel ex that has been indoors most of the time,and has been only ridden 3 times, and standing indoors for the rest of the time. but I tried re lubing it with Finish Line Dry lube, and that loosened up the chain and it now works like new.


recommended Motorex’ cleaner,definitely worth a it.


Review Pro Care Bucket Kit 6.0 & brush set

Super bike wash:


  • cleans fork that is brown from dirt with no issues,that dish soap can’t clean.20635176250_b5d8c7ce58_b
  • dries fast
  • can be used without water,the super wash does not have the dish washing  soap or lube feel effect like some other cleaners have (Motorex for example), it feels more like water.


  • cleaning a well lubed chain with Finish line wet with lube full of dirt, will be a issue, and the multi degreaser can’t do the job either.the Multi degreaser got a strong stink.But after many months the stink is not strong any more.
  • works best on dirt only,I have tried Motorex & Muc off, the Motorex cleaner ,Both Muc off and Motorex works great and even faster than Finishline.


Dry Lube:

But here is where the Finish line Dry lube comes in, the second fuel ex has only been ridden 3 times, and had been standing indoors, without re-lubing. the Motorex could not do the job. but the Finish line dry lube loosened up the chain and now it works perfectly.

I have not tried to ride with this lube, but I assume it is perfect for dry conditions.

The only con of the lube is that it stinks,but you should not sniff lubes anyway.

 Wet lube:

the lube works very well, and does not attract much dirt, when you put too much on and don’t wipe off the excess it will not make ”spider-webs” on between the rollers and the chain. like Weldtite Extreme Wet lube does.

because the lube is not sticky the chain stays pretty clean no matter conditions, and is easier to clean that some other lubes like the extremely sticky lube on the Shimano chains.

Works well in the cold, I have been riding it in summer over 20 Celsius  down to -6 Celsius with out any issues

Multi Degreaser

the Multi degreaser got a strong stink.But after many months the stink is not strong any more, but you should not breath stuff like this anyway.


  • not any pros that stand out


  • cleaning a well lubed chain with full of dirt, will be a issue, and the multi degreaser can’t do the job either.
  • The Degreaser Works well, but It struggles with cleaning the lube/grease that come on KMC & Shimano.

Wax lube

I have never tried this lube, but after watching cannondany’s Shaibike’s video it’s clear that i will never buy it.

Brush set

The round paintbrush style brush & round small long brush works well for cleaning off tricky parts,

The brush with the hole, can be used for cleaning crank arms, but i can’t recommend using it for cleaning the brake disc rotor, because the brush can slip out of your hand and you can hit your hand on the sharp rotor,and hurt your hand.


not any pros that stand out just does thee job done


  • no rubberised grip
  • no rubberised brush body, which can result in scratches on frame or bike components

Grunge Brush

This is probably one of the best chain cleaning devices, unlike closed system witch are bit more time consuming, the Grunge Brush work as good as them but it is a simple solution, you can use it to clean the front chainring(s) and the cassette to, witch works great.

2015 Mavic Crossmax Jersey long & short sleaves

I have not crash tested it yet:-), but I assume its quite durable.

the sizes are about 1 cm difference each way, so I can use International medium and International large.


  • very comfortable against your skin soft and stretches, much more comfortable than a normal cotton t shirt., quite smooth.
  • stretches so easy to take on & off elbow pads when wearing the jersey
  • will fit every type of body armor, I use POC VPD Air elbow pads
  • excellent fit
  • the collar could be a bit higher in the front.


  • the size label  in the rear/ neck is not comfortable against your skin
  • size label in the neck is uncomfortable
  • The yellow jersey attract bees


Because I can use base layer and jersey but still feel cold in this area, use use a buff but I pull the jersey down fro the rear and on the sleeves so I get full coverage in the neck-chest area.

as you can see there is no issue wearing the Poc VPD AIR elbow pads underneath.



good fitting and comfy jersey,so I recommend it

Review: 2015 POC Flow jersey

If  you crash a lot, and need a durable jersey, POC Flow is a good choice.

if you want soft and super comfortable jersey i would go for the Trail jersey instead, biut for me this is OK.


  • confortable, the jersey is smoother inside than outside, so it will not be as unconfortable as you might think.
  • Very Durable,i crashed 2 tiomnmes ( on concrete stairs and on asphalt) with this jersey on and it still looks like new,but i assume if you crash very bad the POC logo might get some scrapes.
  • no itchy size label



  • None yet

i ordered wrong size but i kept it did not have time to deal with it so i just used it, but one size too small  was wearable but not so comfy to put it on, but hopefully i can get some more of these in the right size



Conclusion, if you want durability, the POC flow jersey is a good choice.

4 weeks review: 2014 Bontrager XR3 Expert 2.30 tyres

They came stock on my 2014 Trek fuel ex 7 29er.

The rear tyre worn out(1 mm knobs and I changed them out) after about 4 weeks of normal trail riding & commute. (I did not do any skidding)

the sticky and soft rubber gives good with the knob pattern gives good grip,but the durability is awful,unless you want to use it for races,but for everyday use,these tyres are not durable enough.

I upgraded to Bontrager SE4 Team Issue

they lasted the rest of the season + some more weeks.

With these tyres you actually need to follow the pressure recommendations.


  • good grip


  • Awful durability, I upgraded to Se team issue tyres,but currently(2016) run Maxxis High Roller 2,they have better grip, and don’t wear out as fast as the XR3 Expert.
  • the tyre is squirm at lower pressures. So you can’t use lower pressure than 30 psi I’m somewhere between 170 and 180 Kg  and I need to keep the pressure at 40 psi,30 psi still makes the a unstable steering.
  • the grip is not as good as on Maxxis’s 3C Maxx Terra Compound.


Conclusion: NOT Recommended.

Awful durability

These tyres are waste of money.

2012 and/or 2013 MET Crossover long term review ( 3 helmets) awful

I strongly advise against buying this helmet.

having a safe helmet is important, this one is not that safe because the adjustment mechanism can fail anytime.

the way it is made it’s impossible for it to not fail.



the plates that are snapped together 8 pins, fails, the adjustment wheel pops out because of the screw holding it in place fails.



  • the adjustment strap is big,and poorly made feels and very flimsy
  • the cushion on side are poorly made and they are glued together and not stitched, so you will get glue on your head
  • sun guard is too short to be effective,
  • the price is high compared to some other much better and comfortable helmets.
  • the net on the front of the helmet does not stop flies or anything really,too big holes so pointless to have them
  • the red rear light is weak but that is to expected from a so small light with this kind of battery
  • the cost, you can get a much safer and better helmet for the same price or just little more.


  • good ventilation
  • red rear light
  • the helmet will fit big heads (my  size 51-60 cm)


I have been unlucky with my helmets from met 2 out of 3 of them were faulty

the first one was a red version, the rear of the helmet had cracked so much that it almost fell off I just ripped it off with my fingers, this was just few months a with riding I never dropped the helmet(of course some in the store could have abused it)

i could not see any serial number,i did not have the place to store the broken helmet so i thrown it away, I cant proof I did not actually break the helmet anyway,but I of course did not.

this did only happen with one of the helmets.

in my opinion every single helmet must be tested before its shipped out and.

i forgot to contact Met about this issue, but I did it now in 2016 bit late I know.

helmet nr.1

the part in the yellow above is showing the part that fell off,

in my opinion the helmet should not have so many sharp edges and strange forms,it will reduce the protection.

helmet nr.3 the screw holding the adjustment knob jumped out,  it did not happen with the helmet nr 2

and can feel uncomfortable on some heads,

note that this is in no way an attack against the MET helmet company,just facts,info and my opinions


Review:2015 Poc trail Vent shorts

I am happy with the protection products from POC.

I have not had a bad crash in these I can’t say what will happen exactly,but I assume they will do pretty well.

Attack position


  • side zip venting, it is perfect for me, I can use the shorts in the spring and autumn and some mild winter days.
  • I use size 32, but I use the waist adjustment, but if would get chubby they would still fit.
  • the adjustment straps are perfect,i do not have the need for a belt,this is perfect for me because I hate to use belts when cycling.
  • the right zip pocket  will fit a smart normal size smart phone, my cat s50 fits perfectly.
  • can use a belt,but i prefer to use the Velcro straps instead.
  • comfortable
  • zippers are smooth
  • good length,I ride the shorts in the fall/autumn,I wear the shin and knee pads, with keeps me warm but not too warm, but of course when its winter I wear my craft rain pants over the poc stuff.26905195400_2eaf2febc5_b
  • strong threads/stitching
  • excellent and smooth zippers,and the button make it simple and easy to takeo n and off.


  • The shorts should be longer.

  • the big Poc logo on the side might eventually fall off afther use and wash , as can  be seen here: i use 800rpm/ gentle wash, this is pretty common issue with printed logos, i got 2 pairs 1 in baron blue and oen in black ,this happend on the black shorts,but i have used&washed  the baron blue one more. i do not know why this happend so fast with htese shorts and did not happend on the blue shorts.ihave a adidas jacket, and this happend with it too,but this was with years of use,and now its crackign and falling off,so i was supriced so see it happenign to the poc short so fast.
  • IMG_20151229_014833.jpg
  • the fabric under the bottom show signs of wear, but nothing major it’s only on the inside,these 2 were the only signs of wear I have seen on the shorts so fat it only happen on the black short.when you wear it the bottom tilts to the left and is rubbing the fabric,so it wears.
  • get bit hot in above 25 degrees Celsius


If you can get Poc Resistance strong shorts instead get them.

The short is almost perfect, but need improvment on the button.

Review: POC Resistance Strong shorts