I have usedthesebrakesforover2monthson2bikeswithoutanyissues.
And I have put these brakes trough their paces.
I don’t think I have to wait much more than 2 months before publishing this review, as these brakes are mechanical brakes, So not much can go wrong, But I will update you if there is something more to write about.
Both levers offer excellent feel, but the ML930 has a smooth surface on the lever blade, the ml800 has a textured surface with a Spyke logo, but the white paint on the logo wears off after few weeks or days.
The Spyke logo on the lever blade actually gives more grip as its engraved, But for me It does not make a difference.
Rech adjustment so these levers will work well for a kids bike.
Excellent barrel adjuster, it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.
up and down play in the lever blade
No hinged mount, so you have to remove the grips, but for me this is not a deal-breaker.
Excellent barrel adjuster, it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.
Lighter than the ML800 Spyke levers
Hinged mount for easy removal
Rech adjustment so these levers will work well for a kids bike.
I have these levers on both of my fuel ex 29ers, and they the levers on both survived crashes, on one it survived over the bar crash, where the bike landed parked upsidedownon the other bike it survived a fall about 1 meter from a concrete wall.
Same up & down play as the Spyke levers
The dual arm has is quite harder to pull up compared to Tektro single piston brakes, but this does not bother me.
the Spyke brakes offer one finger braking, as powerful as the Shimano m615 brake, but without the issues of leaks and impossible to get seals.
The Pad mud cover does not protect the pads that much, mine were had sand on them, when riding in wet conditions, there is no way to protect the pads, things will get in the rotor and can get stuck and make noises.
well engineered, caliper, the narrow design gives good clearance so you won’t hit your heals on the brake.
the 3 mm piston adjustment, makes these brakes easy to set up.
barrel adjusters that are easy to use and by figners fit nicely on them.
rubber seal helps to keep dirt from coming in the hoses.
Easy to align The calipers: To align the callipers with the Hope floating rotors, I screw in the outside pistons about ca 3 quarters, and the inside piston about ca 2 quarters, then I tighten the caliper bolts and loosen the pistons, which leaves me with perfectly aligned brakes.
easy to assemble, & get the cable clamped.
Verdict, these brakes performed well so far, so far I don’t see any reason to switch to back to hydraulic brakes.
To keep the brakes having consistent braking power and modulation, you only have to use thread lock on the piston threads and have proper wire tension, and check it regularly. And of course, adjust the pads inwards as they wear out.
The semi-metallic pads give excellent g braking power, and they held up well for a few months, and I think they will last a few months more.
I really needed a full suspension bike, at minimum 120 mm travel, I got the the best bike, I could as fast as I could.but I knew I might need to change few things, but I test ridden the bike around the store, but that was not good enough test.
It was a lot better to ride than the 2010 Trek 6300.
This is my first full suspension bike, and my first 29er, I have never ridden other full suspension bikes, so can’t compare it to others.
Don’t let others decide for you if 29er is the right choice for you.The ride quality not only depend on the bike, but the person sitting on it and the correct size, but for me it climbs well and turns well even in gnarly sections.
I and I felt at home straight away, I noticed the smooth and easy controllable steering straight away, But 800mm handle bars would fit my arms better, but this is will depend on your body measurements.
I think this bike is easy to ride, much better compared to my 6300(100mm stem & 720 bars) even its heavier it goes much faster, no matter if its downhill steep up hills, even doing a wheelie.
with 720 mm handlebars you get easy and controlled steering,720 mm bars, the 18,5 frame and the 29 wheel is just perfect for me.
The bike does not accelerate as fast as a 26er would do but it maintains the speed longer, but the bike is fast & stable in corners.
Technical climbs is not an issue with this bike, but with most trail bikes there is not.
Get a Dropper post
the lack of dropper post hides the capabilities of this bike.
with a dropper post I can get my body in the correct position for going downhill.
Even the dropper post adds more weight, it get you in the correct pedalling position when its up, and for technical sections you just lower it, and the capabilities of the bike increases, the dropper post made me alto faster in descents and on technical climbs.
Routing a dropper post on this frame:
the cable should go alongside the brake hose, For the Race Face Turbine 440mm 150mmdrop dropper pos.
if you use 1x drivetrain, you can use the front dérailleur routing for the external dropper post.
do not have every adjustment there is, but the CTD (climb,trail,descend)
work pretty well for me I am bit more than I am somewhere close to 75 kg with gear on.
So I ride with 180 in the shock and 80 psi in the fork.
I did not want to bottom out the fork so I ran 110 psi for doing drops and jumps, but I later reduced it to 80 psi because the fork was but it too harsh on the roots.
The recommended psi for my weight(with gear of course) is 80 psi.
I am ca 180 cm high,the 18,5 frame and the 29 wheel is perfect for me
I experienced some knocking, clicking sound from the spokes grinding, in turns or when the temperature was way over 20 deg Celsius.
The bike is 13,600 Grams in size 18,5 so it could be too heavy for you if you really need a light bike, but for me it’s not that heavy I can ride pretty fast with it anyway in fact it’s a huge upgrade from my 26 inch 6300,lighter bikes are more expensive and have to break these parts is expensive to replace.
the 10 spd 11-36 x3: I don’t need the 42 tooth ring at the front where I live, but if you have long roads or steep 40 degrees downhill(where you can run out of gears with 36T) its nice with a 42T ring.I have upgraded to 11-42T cassette and 36T Race Face Narrow Wide ring, I will test it out without chain-guide.
You can watch Seth’s Bike Hacks review to see how the narrow wide chaining performs
Saddle: Bontrager Evoke 2
The saddle grips well.
it flexes and got cushioning
I don’t feel the rail inserts
the foam cushioning does not work that well, my weight compress it all the way down( I am somewhere between 170 and 180 KG + gear)
I can feel folded synthetic leather where the fabric and the synthetic leather is stitched
the rims had alloy machining residue, on the inside of the rim, it came out of the spoke holes.
trek should have done a better job with selection of components.
front resin brake pads got worn out in ca. 2 months,I upgraded to Shimano J02A IceTech
the saddle is not so comfortable as it should be,I can feel the sides of the saddle.(I notice it if i use the climb mode on the rear shock)
The screws on the seat post are too long for mounting lower saddles with shorter rails,the Bontrager saddle got the rails higher s other is more space between the saddle and the screws.if you are using a carbon saddle with higher rail profile,instead of round rails, it’s nice to have long screws,but not that if you plan to upgrade saddle to a lower profile saddle, like i did, you might need to cut the screws,
I upgraded to Fabric Scoop Shallow Race, which is more comfortable for me, but the screws on the seat post hit the plastic underneath the saddle.
The 2014 Shimano Deore BL-M615 brake got good modulation, feels perfect to me. it’s a excellent brake set for a excellent price( as long as it works) but of course at a weight penalty.
Shimano Deore SL-M610 Shifter triggers,gives smooth and very easy to shift, a lot better than the 2010 Deore, more ergonomic than the past model like the 2010 from my 6300 bike.
handle bar got stripes to help you with brake and gear lever alignment.
handles well on the rough downhills
holes for internal cable routing for dropper post
external toptube routing support for shock remote or a mechanical dropper post.
the bike is stable in the descend and climb
Shimano Deore brakes work well and are not expensive brakes.
the frame got SCG-05 chainguide mount
no tools need to take off the wheels
fork: work well, even its not the top of the line fork from Fox it’s good in my opinion, i don’t notice any flex when riding.
the rear suspension works very well.
The EVO link is stiff & light
feet & legs do not hit the swing-arms
Shock & fork compression goes out of adjustment when riding hard.
The rear bolts on the Evo Link are getting loose very fast, it takes few weeks for them to get loose, but the other bolts stay tight, I think this is caused by the flex in the chain stay and down tube,which then flexes the chain stay so the bolts get loose.
On one the main bike/the bike with hamburger bell) the threads on the rear/right master cylinder failed, so the brake was leaking fluid,and NO I did not over tighten the Torx screws, first I tough the brake just needed a bleed, so I bled them, so there was no air but the next day I lost a lot of braking powers, there was air in the master cylinder, and oil was leaning,I checked the screws they were just spinning endlessly, I opened up the master cylinder and I saw the threads were polished away, I don’t thin kit was caused by a crash, at least not this particular brake, because I have never hit the brakes in a crash with this master cylinder.
one of the frames had uneven welding for the zipties the gap was too small for the big zipties on the upper cable guide on the downtube,.I could use bit ziptie all over but the one spot.
Noticeably Flexy down tube & chain stays:
After upgrading to the much stiffer Race Face Turbine Cranks, I noticed that the frame is flexing on the right side in the chain stay when turning /leaning the bike to the left,and it hits the tyre 2.3 tyre,I have a tube wrapped around the chain stay , It’s between 1-2 mm. So by upgrading to the stiffer cranks instead of the cranks flexing the chain stay is flexing,so the flex in the frame is more significantly more noticeable with a stiffer crank.
I would not recommend using tyres wider than 2.3,the seat stay&chain stays are too close for bigger tyres.
SHIMANO RT56 RESIN ONLY rotors, After few months of use with Metal pads I worn out the rotors, the holes are rounded off, and I lost a lot of bite.
Noticeable flex in the Shimano Deore M552 crank arms, the cranks failed on both of the bikes, without any abuse,so faulty crank arms, or the they are just too weak for a track stand, flexy cranks like this should not be on a trail bike.
like any suspension bike there is some pedal-bob, but its minimal, I get about 10% of the travel.
The chain stays near the bottom bracket could be made stiffer,but the flex is not I did not notice the flex when riding relaxed on flat surface,unless your tyre or wheel is untrue,the design should be improved.
no chain guide,the chain fell off more than 10 times the 2015 season,when jumping and riding ruff places hard, I jumped from 3 steps of stairs and if fell off)
(as you can see the paint got stripped off by the chain)
one Allen bolt on the EVO link was over tightened from factory ,but I managed to unscrew it by using warm water and Allen key in the freezer for few minutes & the big bolt on the chain stay and seat tube fell off,but the bike shop replaced it.
chain fall off when jumping sometimes, my plan is to get 11 speed and get a chainguide.
Tyres: Bontrager XR3 Expert, is not a very lasting tyre, because of the soft trubber, l the rear tyre lasted me few weeks,so i upgraded the rear with SE4 Team Issue tyres,witch has last me to the winter came.
the weight is 13,6 on 18,5(virtual)(real 17.5)
the Fox 32 has flex/twisting,from side to side, but not noticeable when riding, but this is quite common for 32 mm stanchion forks ,my RockShox tora sl 2010,Marzocchi Corsa 2012,the flex is a lot less than these forks, but when the wheel is on it can be flexed to about the same, but when wheel is off the fox 32 evo is clearly stiffer.
no dropper post.
Bontrager RL(Race Lite) lock on grips: they are way too hard for me,but got good grip,but they are too hard for me and give no dampening, so I replaced them with ESI Extra Chunky green grips in is a pretty good match.
this bike really need a chain guide. If you ride hard or jump you will need a chain guide.
3 chain rings for a trail bike is not optimal, the problem is over big roots or obstacles you can hit it some time times, and as bigger the chainring is as more chance there is for you to crash or damage the ring.
The chain-stay protector does not work well, the chain will hit the zip-ties, and they will snap so the protector will be loose and will scratch the paint,and because it does not cover the whole chain-stay the inside of the chain stay will get hit by the chain, i replaced the protector with a old inner-tube instead.
chain slap on the Front Dérailleur: which crapes of the pant and make visible scrapes on the puller arm.
the bad choices of components, and flexy frame, is Disappointing, the must be some flex in a frame or it will snap, but this is too much in one place.
the bike rides well, very stable no matter how I ridden it,but ,trek did not do a good job on selecting all the components, the drive train is outdated, The wheels are too flexible and get out of true way too easily, triple chain rings is outdated,and the crank arms have too much flex. In my opinion most riders do not need triple chainring setup,wider range cassette just replaces the Front RD so there is no point in having a front Rd.
I think the frame will be too flexy in the left chain stay for average riders.
after 2 seasons the bearing in the chain stay worn out,(by worn out I mean they did not turn smoothly and they made noise even when I repacked them with grease,but they had not noticeable play in them) so I had to change them,So I did,but even though I have had repacked them with grease once, I think I should have done it sooner.
I have been riding with the second bike in -11 degrees, and on wet rainy days, and al lkinds of weather, I had to repack the bearings after few weeks of winter riding, but the bearings were running smooth, So I guess I will just have to cheek the bearings more often.
buy new rear tyres,
If you ride very steep downhills a, A dropper post will definitely be the next upgrade.
This is not a cycling specific jacket, but a sports jacket, but I think it its good for cycling.
The arm zippers:
To close them while riding, you have to do the bicep bodybuilder move, which will hold the jacket in the sleeve in place while you zip it up, do it carefully of course.
excellent fit, which you can see in the video above.
Good coverage. I went with size XL, size L could fit me, for walking, but I went with the XL so I had full coverage, so the when my arms are down my hands are inside the jacket, but when having it on when riding and moving in all directions and stretching my arms and moving my upper body backwards, the jacket covers everything, and I don’t get wet.
well placed venting zippers, so when I began to be too hot, I just unzipped them and I stayed the perfect temperature.but when wearing a backpack you can’t fully unzip the zippers, but that is not a big deal.
the hood fit perfectly under the helmet, and it has adjustment i the back head and 2 in the front, but it is not in the way of the helmet adjustment which is great.
Excellent fit, perfect for mountain biking.
the adjustments are placed in the perfect spots.
2 big front pockets
I can wear the POC elbow pads without any fit issues.
the front of the hood is stiffer than the rest
you can roll it and put it in your backpack, it takes little space. so its perfect for me, as the weather can change from warm summer weather to cold and rain weather the same day.
I have ridden in -9 Celsius with only Swix base layer and a jersey under this jacket, I stayed warm, but I also did a ride in -11 Celsius I stayed warm but if I was still too long I felt bit colder, so if I am very active, I won’t get cold in -11 degrees, but, if your activity is not intense, another jersey should do fine.
so far none
Durability: Updated 22.02.2017
The jacket fabric:
I crashed few times, but the latest crash, loogI jumped a root over a root and landed and my back twisted and I lost control, and my bike went to the left I went on the right and, the jacket’s sleeve landed on the gravel covered asphalt, I got a small hole, on the left sleeve.
2 of the lower pins in the zipper, bent so I had to bend it back, but it came back to being bent few times, I don’t know why this happened, maybe in one of the few crashes I had.
This jacket is perfect for any use, in my opinion, no matter if you run, ride, or ski.
Post originally posted Dec 16, 2015& Updated 12.01.2017
POC is well known for their protection product.
I have several POC products now and I recommend checking them out.
This glove is my favorite glove so far.
they cost the same as the giro remedy X gloves and are way better when it comes to comfort & Poc offers protection padding but Giro does not.
because these gloves were actually bit too big(size large) I changed to 2016 Resistance strong gloves(size medium),the palm on some of the gloves worn out, I think this is caused by the material used & the venting holes in them, so far the Index Dh has been holding up OK,but I guess over long period of time they will eventually wear too.
Note that this article is work in progress, at least now you know some more brands or bikes.
These bikes are in no particular order.
If any of you have found more bikes or child specific stuff, be so kind to comment below to share with us.
I have no experience with these bikes, So I will say my opinion, and my experiences with the components used,I will not decide for you.
This article will be update when I find more good bikes
order and title of article might change but I publish this right ow so you can see it, sorry if there are mistakes and typos.
there are few kids bike brands that make good bikes for kids,and there are even fewer adult bike brands that make kids good kids bikes,and there are not many kids brand that make good kids bikes for 24 and 20 inch wheel size.
Kids should have as safe,light,strong,and as well performing bikes as adults.
for the kids to enjoy riding the bikes for a long time the bikes must be light.
Fit is very important,Adjustable reach for brake levers, right crank arm length,saddle that fit kids,I have seen kids riding on saddles that are painful to sit on,the shape of the saddle the length of the saddle the height/depth of it,Its all very important,a flexible saddle is a must In my opinion for optimal comfort.
When you want to buy a bike please ignore the silly marketing tricks, like using using A celebrity or pro riders name, or a company’s name..
I see many kids got awful bikes, and jump and ride downstairs jump off walls, and they do it on awful and dangerous bikes. the kids I saw ridden like Seth does in this video.
Shame so many kids ride on bikes that is junk,and they don’t know how dangerous it is,and the parents got no clue.
but in this guide I will show some the best kids bike I have found on the internet.(custom builds only commercial products will be listed here)
In my opinion bikes like these should be illegal to sell, but sadly they are not.
And then there are the fake dirt jump bikes that are marketed as bikes that can withstand abuse. which they can’t do at all, bikes with Sr Suntour xct and xcm forks,the plastic adjustment, pops out, flexing, knocking sounds, or almost no rebound, depending on the model.
Some bikes have warning stickers on that say the opposite of what the ad say.
I see many kids got awful bikes, and jump and ride downstairs jump off walls, and they do it on awful and dangerous bikes. the kids I saw ridden like Seth does in this video.
If you are a beginner and want to do advanced riding I you need to subscribe to this channel.
Most of the world-wide big bicycles brands,only make cheap awful bikes for the kids, or really basic hard tails.
Many of the Kids MTB guides, are misleading, many of the bikes got awful components.
Many of the kids bikes I have seen are absolutely awful junk.
Almost every thing is wrong with these 100 dollar bikes.
Just some of the things that are wrong with them:
they are very heavy,a too heavy bike can be dangerous, the bike was glued to the ground I could no jump it.
suspension that does not do the job,the most common fork on these cheap bikes are ZOOM.
mechanical disk brakes that are hard to brake with for kids.
saddles that is torture to sit on.
tyres with no grip
Example of kids bikes that are marketed as mountain bikes, but they are to they are garbage, they are not made for Drop-Offs and jumps, and shredding in the woods.
There are many choices on the market right now,
but If you want the best speed bike without spending too much I recommend buying from Direct Sale brands.
This video shows me jumping a 24 inch fat bike that is way too heavy:
Here are some real mountain bikes for kids. all from XC to freeride,downhill
10 speed 1 by drive trail with shimano Deore shadow plus, and Rock Shox fork & shock & hydraulic mineral oil disk brakes from shimano. I think this is a nice package,but a chain guide would be nice
2016 Trek Fuel EX Jr
So far this is the only high -end bike for kids from trek.
X-Fusion Performance Suspension is tuned for lighter riders
10×2 setup makes sure that the kid got all the gear range he or she needs. the bike got Deore shifters which are lighter to push, than the Deore XT M8000, so shifting should not be a issue for kids.
If I use the 42T cog on the cassette the chain will fall off when back-pedalling, but when I shift up to 37T cog the chain stays in place no matter how hard I pack pedal.
On Hope Pro 4 freehub:
the Pro 4 free hub, is 11 speed compatible, which means it’s wider, and comes with a spacer,and with 11speed cassette, the cassette is closer to the frame/more outwards to the right, which gives a better chain line, so the backpedalling issues is gone,Unless you backpedal at unrealistic speed,then it will fall off,but I have done 180 U turns in 1stgear(42T) and the chain never fell off.
So if your rear hub is compatible with a wider freehub,you should get one.
Huge noise reduction when riding:
The first thing I noticed after I upgraded to 1×11 is that all the slapping ,banging and scraping noises are gone from my bike.
The narrow wide chain-ring will make more sound than the triple chain-ring, but when ring in rough terrain or jumping, the noise is a lot less than a conventional triple ring set-up would make.
There is big difference in the force needed to press to press the small trigger(up shift),but I got used to it after days ,and it did not feel as hard to press, and I like the shifter feel,I get less accidental shifts this way.
The change in gear is instant like promised.
The possibility to shift by bending you finger and do a finger kick motion,which you can’t do with Sram shifters.
(like this(https://youtu.be/7HvJma35fZA) to push the lever/trigger is gone, as the Shimano Deore 10 Spd had.But for me this is a acceptable compromise.
But there will be no accidental shifts
There is huge difference in the force required to push the triggers between SL-M610 & M8000 , so if you plan to upgrade a kids bike you might want to let the kid try it out first,but for the youngest I recommend getting SL-M610 or something similar.
you can shift down 4 gears
The I-Spec B shifter will have rotational play,because of the pin system, it’s not avoidable.
The screw came with a lot of Blue thread-locker,so needed to try few times until I finally got it tight without loose shifter.
But the adjustment screws did not,so you have to buy thread locker for them, I used Loctite 243.
The rear Derailleur:
A lot stiffer Clutch system, which is good.
Very smooth,fast shifting movement.
Esy to service, as long as you got magnetic bowl, and are careful with the round seal fo the spring assambly.
Race Face Narrow wide:
The chain will not fall off no matter how hard I ride, if it falls off you must be crashing really hard.
There is some drag when pedalling but this is not noticeable when riding, the chain still wants to be on the ring for about a half of a second, but this is impossible to avoid with Narrow Wide.
set up used in test: 2010 trek 6300 1 x10 36-11T cassette Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, with 36T Race Face Narrow Wide chain ring.The chain dropped when it was in 24 Tooth cog, but when I tried in 21 cog it stayed on. Even on stairs that were not that steep probably 40 degrees,the chain fell off.
Pros of 1×11:
You get all the gears you need if you just select the right chairing for you.
a lot quieter drive train
dropping the chain is rare unless you ride in low gears down steep stairs.
No front chain rigns to deal with
easier to clean the drive train,less dirt & mud on the drive train
if you want to sue a chain guide, you can use a single ring chain guide which will be more secure,and look better
if you use a wide range cassette with a 9T cog you can get the a pretty high gear as you could with triple rings,but with 11-42 with 36T cassette I get a pretty good range,but once I get on the 1km flat straights I will run out of gears
Cons of 1×11: There are no real cons riding 1×11 it will havefaster wearing cassette and chain of course,but that’s not a reason to not upgrade. the 37 and 42 cogs are the fastest wearing cogs, because of the bigger chain angle.
the cassette & chainring wore out at the end of the season like it did with 10×3, maybe few weeks sooner wear. I don’t have to shift as often and skip so many gear so often,so I get less side to side wear on the chain,by using 1×11,so the chain growth will be less.
If i changed the chain,a lot earlier, the cassette and ring would have lasted longer,but I had no spare chains,but I have a stock of chains now.
The Rear derailleur cage will have visible wear, with 1x setup,because of the chain line the chain will hit the plates,but its not a big deal.
I absolutely recommend Both the Xt m8000 drivetrain and the Race Face Narrow Wide single chaining.
Removes dirt that no dish soap, I use it all over the my bikes
Cleans off Muc off dry and wet lubes.
I had no issues with cleaning dirty chain with Muc off wet lube on, wuith Finish line Grunge Brush with Motorex bike clean the chain was sparkly clean,but Muc off lubes are easy to clean off,with proper cleaners.
It feels dish washing soap or lube, so its important to rinse it off before a ride, if you use it on your brake pads or discs you will reduce the braking power if you don’t rinse it off.
I have used it Motorex bike clean to clean the brake discs and brake pads, but I rinsed it off well.
I can clean the whole bike with this product.(if there is not extremely sticky stuff on it)
no matter how dirt it was,mud,lube,and other things it removed it with no issue.
But If you want to remove good grease, you can’t with this product, you will have to use a a degreaser.
it works faster than finish line’s cleaner,I can use less of it.
it got a mild smell, does not stink extremely like some other stuff can do.
washing the drive train works well, compared to finish line cleaner,with finish line I had to use their degreaser which stink/smell horrible and still would not remove as well as Motorex’s bike cleaner.
Some stuff even the good cleaners and degreasers struggle with:
but it can’t clean the sticky shimano lube that has been my second fuel ex that has been indoors most of the time,and has been only ridden 3 times, and standing indoors for the rest of the time. but I tried re lubing it with Finish Line Dry lube, and that loosened up the chain and it now works like new.
recommended Motorex’ cleaner,definitely worth a it.
cleans fork that is brown from dirt with no issues,that dish soap can’t clean.
can be used without water,the super wash does not have the dish washing soap or lube feel effect like some other cleaners have (Motorex for example), it feels more like water.
cleaning a well lubed chain with Finish line wet with lube full of dirt, will be a issue, and the multi degreaser can’t do the job either.the Multi degreaser got a strong stink.But after many months the stink is not strong any more.
works best on dirt only,I have tried Motorex & Muc off, the Motorex cleaner ,Both Muc off and Motorex works great and even faster than Finishline.
But here is where the Finish line Dry lube comes in, the second fuel ex has only been ridden 3 times, and had been standing indoors, without re-lubing. the Motorex could not do the job. but the Finish line dry lube loosened up the chain and now it works perfectly.
I have not tried to ride with this lube, but I assume it is perfect for dry conditions.
The only con of the lube is that it stinks,but you should not sniff lubes anyway.
the lube works very well, and does not attract much dirt, when you put too much on and don’t wipe off the excess it will not make ”spider-webs” on between the rollers and the chain. like Weldtite Extreme Wet lube does.
because the lube is not sticky the chain stays pretty clean no matter conditions, and is easier to clean that some other lubes like the extremely sticky lube on the Shimano chains.
Works well in the cold, I have been riding it in summer over 20 Celsius down to -6 Celsius with out any issues
the Multi degreaser got a strong stink.But after many months the stink is not strong any more, but you should not breath stuff like this anyway.
not any pros that stand out
cleaning a well lubed chain with full of dirt, will be a issue, and the multi degreaser can’t do the job either.
The Degreaser Works well, but It struggles with cleaning the lube/grease that come on KMC & Shimano.
I have never tried this lube, but after watching cannondany’s Shaibike’s video it’s clear that i will never buy it.
The round paintbrush style brush & round small long brush works well for cleaning off tricky parts,
The brush with the hole, can be used for cleaning crank arms, but i can’t recommend using it for cleaning the brake disc rotor, because the brush can slip out of your hand and you can hit your hand on the sharp rotor,and hurt your hand.
not any pros that stand out just does thee job done
no rubberised grip
no rubberised brush body, which can result in scratches on frame or bike components
This is probably one of the best chain cleaning devices, unlike closed system witch are bit more time consuming, the Grunge Brush work as good as them but it is a simple solution, you can use it to clean the front chainring(s) and the cassette to, witch works great.
If you crash a lot, and need a durable jersey, POC Flow is a good choice.
if you want soft and super comfortable jersey i would go for the Trail jersey instead, biut for me this is OK.
confortable, the jersey is smoother inside than outside, so it will not be as unconfortable as you might think.
Very Durable,i crashed 2 tiomnmes ( on concrete stairs and on asphalt) with this jersey on and it still looks like new,but i assume if you crash very bad the POC logo might get some scrapes.
no itchy size label
i ordered wrong size but i kept it did not have time to deal with it so i just used it, but one size too small was wearable but not so comfy to put it on, but hopefully i can get some more of these in the right size
Conclusion, if you want durability, the POC flow jersey is a good choice.
they lasted the rest of the season + some more weeks.
With these tyres you actually need to follow the pressure recommendations.
Awful durability, I upgraded to Se team issue tyres,but currently(2016) run Maxxis High Roller 2,they have better grip, and don’t wear out as fast as the XR3 Expert.
the tyre is squirm at lower pressures. So you can’t use lower pressure than 30 psi I’m somewhere between 170 and 180 Kg and I need to keep the pressure at 40 psi,30 psi still makes the a unstable steering.
the grip is not as good as on Maxxis’s 3C Maxx TerraCompound.
having a safe helmet is important, this one is not that safe because the adjustment mechanism can fail anytime.
the way it is made it’s impossible for it to not fail.
the adjustment strap is big,and poorly made feels and very flimsy
the cushion on side are poorly made and they are glued together and not stitched, so you will get glue on your head
sun guard is too short to be effective,
the price is high compared to some other much better and comfortable helmets.
the net on the front of the helmet does not stop flies or anything really,too big holes so pointless to have them
the red rear light is weak but that is to expected from a so small light with this kind of battery
the cost, you can get a much safer and better helmet for the same price or just little more.
red rear light
the helmet will fit big heads (my size 51-60 cm)
I have been unlucky with my helmets from met 2 out of 3 of them were faulty
the first one was a red version, the rear of the helmet had cracked so much that it almost fell off I just ripped it off with my fingers, this was just few months a with riding I never dropped the helmet(of course some in the store could have abused it)
i could not see any serial number,i did not have the place to store the broken helmet so i thrown it away, I cant proof I did not actually break the helmet anyway,but I of course did not.
this did only happen with one of the helmets.
in my opinion every single helmet must be tested before its shipped out and.
i forgot to contact Met about this issue, but I did it now in 2016 bit late I know.
the part in the yellow above is showing the part that fell off,
in my opinion the helmet should not have so many sharp edges and strange forms,it will reduce the protection.
helmet nr.3 the screw holding the adjustment knob jumped out, it did not happen with the helmet nr 2
and can feel uncomfortable on some heads,
note that this is in no way an attack against the MET helmet company,just facts,info and my opinions
I have not had a bad crash in these I can’t say what will happen exactly,but I assume they will do pretty well.
side zip venting, it is perfect for me, I can use the shorts in the spring and autumn and some mild winter days.
I use size 32, but I use the waist adjustment, but if would get chubby they would still fit.
the adjustment straps are perfect,i do not have the need for a belt,this is perfect for me because I hate to use belts when cycling.
the right zip pocket will fit a smart normal size smart phone, my cat s50 fits perfectly.
can use a belt,but i prefer to use the Velcro straps instead.
zippers are smooth
good length,I ride the shorts in the fall/autumn,I wear the shin and knee pads, with keeps me warm but not too warm, but of course when its winter I wear my craft rain pants over the poc stuff.
excellent and smooth zippers,and the button make it simple and easy to takeo n and off.
The shorts should be longer.
the big Poc logo on the side might eventually fall off afther use and wash , as can be seen here: i use 800rpm/ gentle wash, this is pretty common issue with printed logos, i got 2 pairs 1 in baron blue and oen in black ,this happend on the black shorts,but i have used&washed the baron blue one more. i do not know why this happend so fast with htese shorts and did not happend on the blue shorts.ihave a adidas jacket, and this happend with it too,but this was with years of use,and now its crackign and falling off,so i was supriced so see it happenign to the poc short so fast.
the fabric under the bottom show signs of wear, but nothing major it’s only on the inside,these 2 were the only signs of wear I have seen on the shorts so far.so fat it only happen on the black short.when you wear it the bottom tilts to the left and is rubbing the fabric,so it wears.
get bit hot in above 25 degrees Celsius
If you can get Poc Resistance strong shorts instead get them.
The short is almost perfect, but need improvment on the button.
The Mucky Nutz is is more secure, or getting hit than Ass Savers large ,which will easily fall of when hit or or pulled,but the Mucky Nutz will not fall off unless extreme forces are applied.
Provides pretty good protection a gianst mud from the rear tyre.
when hit from above or under side it will stay in place.
it will stay in place without any issues when you ride.
does a very bad job at keeping you mud free, unless you only sit on the saddle. just look at this video:
its hanging down a bit.
when hit hard from the side it can snap out of place and fall off, if you crash or for example when you are getting on the bike by pulling your leg up, so be careful if you do it this way,this is not really a big issue.
can be bit tricky to take off,but that depends on the seat post design,i got the 2014 Bontrager seat post on my fuel ex 7.On the 2014
will not fit every saddle there is, the 2014 Bontrager Evoke 2 saddle the Fender will not stick up like this but will hand about 5 degrees down.
there will still be dirt coming from the rear tyre but if you got a backpack or jacket on it does not matter, i use a Evoc Fr Enduro Team and the bottom part of it get bit dirty, but for me that’s not a issue,the main reason for this fender is to protect your pants or shorts being muddy.
I can’t recommend any saddle mounted fenders, its best to have a fender mounted on the seat stays, so it protects the pivots, and the dropper seat post.