Since I first wrote this review in 2016 I have improved this review, more & better pictures, improved text, and more details.
no more twisted strap, like on 2015 Index DH glove
more air flow than the DH index glove provided by the holes in the palm
I stay cool even in 25 deg. Celsius
true to size, I have 21cm knuckle size, and the medium fits me perfectly. I went from Index DH gloves in large which was a bit too bit too big, to this glove.
Durable ceramic-coated SuperFabric® with abrasion-resistant properties, this actually works.
the impact protection is silly thin, they won’t help on a proper impact, I tested it with hitting my hand harder and harder on a stem.
Because of the holes on the palm, the durability suffers when you get something (pedal pins for example) stuck in the holes you can tear the fabric, but this is also caused by the fabric’s weakness.but if you do it can easily be fixed if you got some sewing skills.
the triple dots on the fingers wear off fast because they are glued on.
The Stitching failed on one pair, They were Only used one day, I put these on today and the stitching came loose.
the glue holding the Velcro to the rubber strap failed of some pairs of gloves, but you can easily fix this with a sewing kit. Sadly I got an inconsistent quality of the stitching on these gloves with the gloves I got.
after many months of use, the glove stretched and had to be sewn in the palm to fit me properly.
the picture below shows a new glove:
But if you want longer lasting palm to get the Index DH glove instead, but it will of course not be as cool as the Resistance glove, but the durability of the palm must be improved.
I still use my Index DH gloves in size L, for colder days, I wear them over fleece gloves in size M, which works well.
I will look into other gloves, like Mechanix for example, they got full finger padding and knuckle padding.
Here is an improved review, since the last time I posted a review on these,
I have used Esi grips since 11.2015 until January 2018, so I am very familiar with them. But now finally I revised the review, new pictures, improved text. I wish I did it sooner but did not get around to doing I until now.
I put them thru its paces, I rode with them in -11c to summer heat, in most weather conditions.
I went from hard and too small diameter grips to Easton MTB grips, which was torture to ride with so I had to get something better, but ESI Grisp were just a temporary solution.
I went for the 34mm diameter grips, they fit me perfectly.
I have been using these grips since 2015, they definitely work, but not for long, So I had to swap them out for a fresh set after few weeks.
feels great without gloves
10 colour choices, I got green fits my fuel-ex perfectly.
stays in place, does not slide off.
reduces hand numbness – fatigue- arm pump
easy to clean with a hard brush
not effected much by the subzero temperatures, they work in the summer heat and in the freezing winter.
they can be used in the winter, I have ridden few days with -10 and more, with the grips, without any issues.
not as grippy as rubber grips.
but they only last me 4 weeks, they become too soft and lose the shock absorption, and at that point, they are torture to ride, so they are expensive in longterm. In the In the winter I use 2.1 Suomi Gazza Extrem studded tyres with 4psi higher pressure than my summer setup with Maxxis 2.3 tyres, which becomes torture to ride with once the grips lose the shock absorption feature, first comes the loss of shock absobtion then the grip becoems more fragile and gets ripped apart easier and easier, then they begin to spin slowly, but this happens over the course of smany weeks, with higher wolume tyres I could ride them for bit longer, but not with my current winter setup, it’s torture, so I had to swap to fresh grips every 4th week, which cost way too much.
birds can damage the grips like here, after riding with them more than a week after the bird attacking them there are holes so deep I can see the handlebar, so if you crash hard you will rip the grips part.
I was so impressed with grip of these pedals that I ordered more sets so now I got 4 in total.
I run these with all pins, and the grip can’t even compare to normal cheap pedals they are on a whole new level, But They are not perfect, the short standard size platform is rideable but it’s too short for me.
I have jumped and landed with the pedal on the end of a stair end and no damage not bend no play. but they are now on my fuel ex and the left crank arm failed and the left pedal fell off, the threads for the pin failed few days later, which is probably caused by loosened pin, and damage to threads was probably done wheel the pedal fell off,I have Used Loctite 243 all of my pedals,the thread locker on the pins are will no do the job properly, So you have to apply some more.
No I did not overtighten them, it as a bike mechanic in the store that switched the pedals from my trek 6300 to the fuel ex.good they had a spare crank.I have used the pedal with the xt crank arm I got and the pedal did not fall of, so I assume it was just a faulty crank arm that caused this.
After about 2 season of use the metal rings and the locking clips will show sings of wear, I had to bend the clips with pliers to make them tight again, the O rings stretch after few months or weeks, causing the pedal to move from side to side and making knocking & creaking sounds.
But straight line provides spare parts, which can be bought directly from their site, or from online shops.
After riding few days in freezing conditions& rapid changing conditions, the service intervals changed to servicing them quite often.
I had to use grease instead of lube, and apply so much grease it hindered water from coming on the inside, but the harsh conditions I rode in, still required the pedals to be serviced often. To Prevent Rust This is necessary, This is normal you will have to service any component more often in the winter.
I did go trough several bushings in a year,about 1- 2 depending on use , as In got got several bikes & ride a lot.
The platform is too short, for my 44 size feet, a longer platform would be nice. But riding with the five ten impact shoes definitely help.
The o-rings were problematic,f ew times as they stretched in a short time, and in hot weather the stretched O ring slid up from the spindle to the pedal wrench slots,after changing the shims, few times the o-rings start to wear. my experience was that I had to change them after few months or weeks,they cracked and stretched way too much way too fast, So if you got these pedals, toy need to stock these Orings.After having these issues I found on MTBR.com forum that others have the same issues. http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/straitline-all-mountain-amp-pedals-727035.html
Very durable, can take some abuse.
excellent grip, the pins amount of pins & the sharp shape provide excellent grip, combined with Five Ten shoes it gives perfect grip.
easy to replace pins
easy to service, one of the easiest on the market right now
The pedal has plastic shim, which allows the pedal to stay in place in the same position when you remove your foot from the pedal.
If it was not for the ”standard” size platform I could recommend these pedals,But for smaller feet these will do the job. but as I have big feet, these feel too short.
IF you decide to get these, you will lave to get better O-rings
DeFfacto are not the lightest pedals with good grip on the market, but if you want to save weight go for the Syntace nine nine titan instead, but the Straightline de facto are much cheaper, But in my opinion a longer platform medal would be better, I don’t care about some tiny weight gains.
I have wanted a longer platform pedals for years, and I wanted to buy some buy never got around to do it, but I think my next pedals will be Pedal innovations catalyst,I think I will buy them to try them out for myself, The Straitline defacto and many other pedals are too short for me, but this does not stop me from using riding well, but I can definitely feel the disadvantages of the standard platform size.
If I use the 42T cog on the cassette the chain will fall off when back-pedalling, but when I shift up to 37T cog the chain stays in place no matter how hard I pack pedal.
On Hope Pro 4 freehub:
the Pro 4 free hub, is 11 speed compatible, which means it’s wider, and comes with a spacer,and with 11speed cassette, the cassette is closer to the frame/more outwards to the right, which gives a better chain line, so the backpedalling issues is gone,Unless you backpedal at unrealistic speed,then it will fall off,but I have done 180 U turns in 1stgear(42T) and the chain never fell off.
So if your rear hub is compatible with a wider freehub,you should get one.
Huge noise reduction when riding:
The first thing I noticed after I upgraded to 1×11 is that all the slapping ,banging and scraping noises are gone from my bike.
The narrow wide chain-ring will make more sound than the triple chain-ring, but when ring in rough terrain or jumping, the noise is a lot less than a conventional triple ring set-up would make.
There is big difference in the force needed to press to press the small trigger(up shift),but I got used to it after days ,and it did not feel as hard to press, and I like the shifter feel,I get less accidental shifts this way.
The change in gear is instant like promised.
The possibility to shift by bending you finger and do a finger kick motion,which you can’t do with Sram shifters.
(like this(https://youtu.be/7HvJma35fZA) to push the lever/trigger is gone, as the Shimano Deore 10 Spd had.But for me this is a acceptable compromise.
But there will be no accidental shifts
There is huge difference in the force required to push the triggers between SL-M610 & M8000 , so if you plan to upgrade a kids bike you might want to let the kid try it out first,but for the youngest I recommend getting SL-M610 or something similar.
you can shift down 4 gears
The I-Spec B shifter will have rotational play,because of the pin system, it’s not avoidable.
The screw came with a lot of Blue thread-locker,so needed to try few times until I finally got it tight without loose shifter.
But the adjustment screws did not,so you have to buy thread locker for them, I used Loctite 243.
The rear Derailleur:
A lot stiffer Clutch system, which is good.
Very smooth,fast shifting movement.
Esy to service, as long as you got magnetic bowl, and are careful with the round seal fo the spring assambly.
Race Face Narrow wide:
The chain will not fall off no matter how hard I ride, if it falls off you must be crashing really hard.
There is some drag when pedalling but this is not noticeable when riding, the chain still wants to be on the ring for about a half of a second, but this is impossible to avoid with Narrow Wide.
set up used in test: 2010 trek 6300 1 x10 36-11T cassette Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, with 36T Race Face Narrow Wide chain ring.The chain dropped when it was in 24 Tooth cog, but when I tried in 21 cog it stayed on. Even on stairs that were not that steep probably 40 degrees,the chain fell off.
Pros of 1×11:
You get all the gears you need if you just select the right chairing for you.
a lot quieter drive train
dropping the chain is rare unless you ride in low gears down steep stairs.
No front chain rigns to deal with
easier to clean the drive train,less dirt & mud on the drive train
if you want to sue a chain guide, you can use a single ring chain guide which will be more secure,and look better
if you use a wide range cassette with a 9T cog you can get the a pretty high gear as you could with triple rings,but with 11-42 with 36T cassette I get a pretty good range,but once I get on the 1km flat straights I will run out of gears
Cons of 1×11: There are no real cons riding 1×11 it will havefaster wearing cassette and chain of course,but that’s not a reason to not upgrade. the 37 and 42 cogs are the fastest wearing cogs, because of the bigger chain angle.
the cassette & chainring wore out at the end of the season like it did with 10×3, maybe few weeks sooner wear. I don’t have to shift as often and skip so many gear so often,so I get less side to side wear on the chain,by using 1×11,so the chain growth will be less.
If i changed the chain,a lot earlier, the cassette and ring would have lasted longer,but I had no spare chains,but I have a stock of chains now.
The Rear derailleur cage will have visible wear, with 1x setup,because of the chain line the chain will hit the plates,but its not a big deal.
I absolutely recommend Both the Xt m8000 drivetrain and the Race Face Narrow Wide single chaining.
The Mucky Nutz is is more secure, or getting hit than Ass Savers large ,which will easily fall of when hit or or pulled,but the Mucky Nutz will not fall off unless extreme forces are applied.
Provides pretty good protection a gianst mud from the rear tyre.
when hit from above or under side it will stay in place.
it will stay in place without any issues when you ride.
does a very bad job at keeping you mud free, unless you only sit on the saddle. just look at this video:
its hanging down a bit.
when hit hard from the side it can snap out of place and fall off, if you crash or for example when you are getting on the bike by pulling your leg up, so be careful if you do it this way,this is not really a big issue.
can be bit tricky to take off,but that depends on the seat post design,i got the 2014 Bontrager seat post on my fuel ex 7.On the 2014
will not fit every saddle there is, the 2014 Bontrager Evoke 2 saddle the Fender will not stick up like this but will hand about 5 degrees down.
there will still be dirt coming from the rear tyre but if you got a backpack or jacket on it does not matter, i use a Evoc Fr Enduro Team and the bottom part of it get bit dirty, but for me that’s not a issue,the main reason for this fender is to protect your pants or shorts being muddy.
I can’t recommend any saddle mounted fenders, its best to have a fender mounted on the seat stays, so it protects the pivots, and the dropper seat post.
the saddle is harder than the Bontrager race saddle on the 2010 trek 6300,saddles is a personal thing,not every one will find every saddle comfortable, this saddle was not the most comfortable one I had.
durability is acceptable, it did not wear out or bend og any screws that fell out, so this is good,i got few holes on the sides from few crashes.
becomes slippery after at least 1 year of use
the black stripes that go on the sides ,top of the saddle wear out after much riding.
men etui/futeral er ikke det samme,ikke innpakningen heller Jeg har brukt brillene i mer enn (husker ikek nøyaktig)2 år i varmt vær syklet i kalde og varme dager, ingen tind har knekt , det følger med et futeral med blrillepose, men det stemmer ikke,men den har 4 glass brilene sitter på min nase ok,men problemet at jeg får fluer somkrasjer i panna mi rett i øynene.men formen på panna har jo mye å si ,de kan kansje for deg og ikke meg.
det som ikke er bra
ikke Photocromatisk linse på gsport sin side stod det at det er det. men lenger ned sto det at det følger med 4 glass.
Den svarte lakken flasser av
gummi strømpa på brille armene faller av og limen smelter, gummien revner så brillene blir ekkle å ha på seg når dette skjer. jeg måtyte vaske vekk limen
599,- prisen er for høy
bare et farge valg
bare en størrrelse
Den svarte lakken farler av, og smelte så man får svarte merker på huden. gummi strømpa på brille armene faller av limen smelter, det sklir av, gummien revener. så brillene blir ekle å ha på seg når dette skjer.
det som er bra
futteral/etui og brillepose
brille glassene er i en pose for å ungå riper.
du får kjøpt disse brillene hos gsport, intersport eller på nett på