10.12.2016 Updated Review: 2015 Bontrager SE4 Team Issue 29×2.3

After few weeks of use of the XR3 Expert tyres, so I need new tyres so I purchased all the se4 tyres in stock. I did not abuse the tyres, I rode singletrack & some stairs.I do not mind the weight of these tyres because of the durability.

After using the 2015 Bontrager SE4 Team Issue 29×2.3 for the 2015 season, I tried Maxxis High roller 2 3C Maxx Terra EXO TR  2.3  the 2016 season, which are much better tyres in my opinion, so I needed to update you on this.

Pros

• durable
• No twisting when running 25 psi.
• the excellent pattern gives you good grip
• I did not notice any difference in rolling resistance from the Xr3 expert to the Se4 team issue
• puncture resistant. I don’t know if I was lucky or this is very puncture resistant, but I never got a puncture no matter how hard I rode, which is partly good luck at the time, but these tyres won puncture by trail use. even if I rode on broken glass.( of course I if you  ride on a big and sharp thing you will puncture every tyre) Takes rock gardens pretty well, no cuts yet. But I don’t have any many sharp rocks where I lived at the time of the review.
• fast rolling & cornering, Compared to Maxxis High Roller 2 23.3 Se4 corners better on asphalt. it’s the thread pattern & hardness of the tyre which does it.(but for grip Maxxis HighRoller 2 2.3 wins.)

As you can see the side knobs are pretty close, I think that’s why this tyre corners so fast.

these tyres are easy to put on and off the Bontrager Duster 29e rims

Cons:

• heavy at 1010 grams for one tyre its quite heavy, but the higher weight is unavoidable with thicker & stronger tyres.
• The Se4 tyre washes out on hard packed dirt or loose dirt, The tyre does not compress and form to the surface enough. I had these tyres on my spare bike, but I swapped wheels from my spare bike over from my main bike and taken a ride the local trails with the Bontrager Se4 tyres the rear i crashed which I have never done on the trusty Maxxis High Roller 2 3C Maxx Terra EXO TR  2.3.

Ignore the sounds I made, just tested the mic.

Verdict

I can’t recommend these tyres because I have tried Maxxis HighRoller 2 3C ‘s

I have not had any issues when riding on the pavement or asphalt road.

Not so good on common variable trail conditions. I recommend getting a tyre with better cornering grip, and stickier rubber for better grip, I now use Maxxis HighRoller 2’s and I have never looked back.

Maxxis HighRoller 2 is as durable and got a much softer compound.

For me the Maxxis HighRoller 2, offer a better package, even it does not turn as fast, but for me it’s better compromise, the result is an excellent overall experience.

I use Maxxis Minion 2.3 on my trek 6300 26er bikes, and they roll fast in corners, but they don’t slide/wash out on you when riding fast in corners, so for more technical trails I recommend Maxxis High Roller 2 2.3 or 2.4

for xc gravel, or not too rooty trails, for xc, gravel and asphalt Minion’s are better

VItal MTB review

Photo Album

several saddles several years Review: Fabric Scoop Shallow Race 143mm

This review is in process of being updated after years of use and riding with second saddle.

I bought I think 3 of these on sale, too good deal to pass up. I’ve used it on mountain bikes.

Album

 

After 5 months the saddle tip showed signs of wear, probably caused by the saddle flexing and compressing and the material rubbing against the plastic.

some of the tip is got little bit loose.

Some words:

Does not grip as well as Bontrager saddles, but it’s not very slippery neither. But if you use a the SSR seat post you should change to shorter screws, because of the flex and the low profile of the saddle,there is too little room, so the saddle will hit the screws.

This saddle is the most comfortable saddle i owned yet,but i gave not owned many.

The screws were so long that the saddle flexing down and hit them.I need to use brake caliper screw spacers because of too of too long screws on the SSR seat post.

 

Pros

• The plastic fame will be lasting a long time because the rails are mounted to the plastic base using a machine instead of 2 or 1 small screw holding it together with a plastic plate.
• Very comfy
• perfect amount of flex for comfort.
• Titanium rains have proven to strong, no issues, never bent, even when the clamping bolts got loose, and the saddles slit back.

Cons:

• one of the saddles had creaking and a bit loose rail on the left side.
• the saddle gets very harsh in sub zero temps, it’s painful to sit on during the winter, even in -1C, but gets harsher in -10C.

• the cover wears out with too much friction/rubbing.
• The white lines for the adjustment, are not equal on both sides on all of the saddles, I got.

• 

  saddle Vs asphalt, I crashed and the saddle this the asphalt,this is the result.

 

 

After 4-5 hours there’s discomfort, it hurts to sit, I don’t know if it’s the saddle or my butt.

Eventually the first  saddle got harsher, even during the summer, so I retired that one. The second saddle I used last started to have a creak at the back where the rails go into the base.

The bolts on BIke Yoke Divine and Revive 2.0 are just long enough, not too long, so no clearance issues, The SSR seat post was one of the exceptions. But it’s something to be aware of, check the bolt clearance no matter the saddle.

I guess the curve at the middle rear gives a bit more breathability when you wear breathable clothing. Maybe it’s designed like this for the tail bone, maybe both.

Verdict

It worked well for me as on 2-3 hours in the summer, but too harsh in the winter.

I love the base construction, no bolts and plate at the tip, with wood screws popping out. So the saddle lasts a long time. But It’s not perfect. But I don’t regret trying it, at the time it was a good deal, I had to try it.

 

Flickr album

Product page: http://fabric.cc/shop/saddles/scoop/

If you live in Norway you can order from these sites:

http://www.sykkelkomponenter.no/products/fabric-scoop-shallow-race-blackblack-sete

http://bikeshop.no/Sykkel/Komponenter/Sadler/Konkurranse/trening/Fabric/Fabric-Scoop-Shallow-Race-Sadel-Sort-142mm-Titan-Rails-254gSEFBSHARABBK-p0000080836

International shops:

https://www.bike24.com/p2117947.html

https://www.evanscycles.com/fabric-scoop-shallow-race-saddle-EV223759

review: Fox 180 MX jersey

Size comparison:

Mavic int L/EU, GER M

Alpinestars L

FOX XL

My size for this jersey is XL, L will be too short arms.

Pros

• very cool jersey, it’s so cool I can almost not feel that I’m wearing it, So its cooler than the Mavic Crossmax jerseys I have.
• Wearing protection is not an issue, because of the perfect fit.
• True to size Fit
• Perfect with elbow pads.
• not too baggy
• The collar is not too big, which I think Mavic Crossmax had.
  

Cons

• None if you are careful, something can get hooked on it and pull the threads, but this is going to happen with all thin clothing.

 

Verdict: Recommended

It’s a jersey, so there is not much to say about

 

https://www.foxracing.com/

2 season Review: Bontrager Duster 29 wheelset

This wheelset is a perfect example of why you should know or read long term reviews.

The Bontrager hubs using in this wheelset are manufactured by Formula Hubs.

the type of riding I have done is the most normal trail/enduro/singletrack

The highest I ever jumped with these wheels was 1 meter.

This is the stock wheelset on my 2014 trek fuel ex 29ers.

The front wheel wheels were fine, but the primary bike had a noisy front wheel, its most likely the spokes, or the rings in the rim, on the rear rims many of them were loose.

Brushed & black

Maxis high roller 2 are quite hard to take on and off on this rim, a good tyre lever is needed.

Tiny tent in the left sidewall, I think this if from hitting a stair step edge, I have punctured quite many times and lost air too much air when I was riding down stairs, but this dent can probably by fixed.

The wheels get out of true way too fast.
I managed to make it true sideways but not radially.
after few km on my spare bike, the rear tyre was hitting the inner tube wrapped on the chainstay, I took off the tyre and tried to true the wheel, it was impossible to radially true it.
even at max tension & loosening the and loosening the other spokes above to make it true)the spokes could not pull the rim inwards.
the primary bike had a flat spot, but it also was untrue very fast, and the tyre hit the frame on it too, but it was fixed with truing.
but the flat spot was impossible to fix, I managed to get it better but still was about half cm out of true radially.
this was after few months

the rim had drilling residue after spoke holes.The other had something black inside it, probably drilling residue with black paint-job.

Formula DC-51- The front hub use 3/16 inch bearing

The spoke nipples:

It’s Am not brutal or using the wrong tool for the job, I have never seen so soft spoke nipples, but some worked fine. so this might be faulty nipples, something wrong with the alloy on these spokes.

many of them were inaccurate so the spoke wrench did not fit properly unless forced,
almost half of the spoke nipples got rounded off,t he metal was like chocolate that began to melt, some nipples even cracked,t o take them off I need pliers, some nipples even snapped/cracked.
I used the correct size of a wrench, I will rebuild the wheels with new rims, spokes, and spoke nipples.

I have been puncturing a lot, even I go beefy tyres: Maxxis High roller 2 2.3, and I have been riding down stairs and rough terrain, and lost air pressure, and ridden down stairs until I hear a loud bang, But I did not get any big dents.
So upgrading to tubeless might be a good upgrade.

28 spokes are too few on a 29er trail/xc/enduro bike.these are the Moist flexible wheels I ever rode.

Bigger the wheel is more spokes it needs.

more spokes easier it is to true it, and longer they stay true.

The original rim tape, eventually will twist and bend, when you get punctures.

the freehub on the spare bike had no grease in the freehub bearings.
I had ridden the bike only 60km, at the time, but this resulted in play, and loud noises, I had to repack it with grease.
the front is almost idiot proof.
It’s so easy to service as long as you got the right tools for the job.

rear hub:

the rear bearings did not need any repacking, they have good, blue grease in them.

to take off the freehub you need an 11mm Allen/Umbraco key & an adjustable wrench, and use the long side of the Allen key.

because of the Park tool 11mm, Free-hub retrench is too short for this particular hub.

Verdict:

Horrible wheelset.

Way too flexy get untrue too fast, the only good thing is the easy to service hubs

It’s best to read a lot of reviews, and see what your friends or the rest of the community are riding and what they think is good, before you order a wheelset. that what I am gonna do.