100% RaceCraft Plus Goggles Mid-Term review

I guess I can call it a mid term review, I haven’t worn them out yet, I am probably about half way trough the life cycle of these goggles.

So how do they compare to the previous version with no plus in the name? What has changed?

The short answer is, the plus refers to the shaped lens & the added layer of foam, the lens is stronger, and is stiff, much easier to install and remove, but the con is it takes up more room in the backpack, unless you lay it on the top, you have to be careful where you have it, for me it’s not really an issue.

I don’t know how strong these lenses are, I discovered Leatt has lenses that are bullet proof, but I don’t know if these are.

But I don’t know if they changed the formula for this plastic, it’s exactly the same, but the shape, and properties, like the flex, stiffness seems to be the same so is the comfort.

The durability seems to be the same.

I found the Stock lens to be weird, natural colour. They had a blue tint. So I bought new lenses.

here it is, much natural color.

2016 Fox Rampage Pro Carbon & 100% Goggle

I also think the goggles look great with both colours of goggles.

100% RaceCraft Plus_2473
100% RaceCraft Plus__2471
100% RaceCraft Plus_3597

This is the lenses I had from the previous goggles, but I ordered clear Plus lenses.

100% RaceCracft Plus goggle _2019
Exposure Lights Diablo Mk10

Wear & tear 25 May 2019:

100% Race Craft Plus goggle
100% Race Craft Plus goggle
100% Race Craft Plus goggle
100% Race Craft Plus goggle
100% Race Craft Plus goggle

Five Ten Freerider high Long-term review Revised with videos

24 april 2019 I updated,revised the review & on 21.05.2019 I added videos comparing the shoes right out of the box to used shoes.

I have updated the review with pictures and video showing the wear and how fast they wore, and compared the worn and new shoes.

These shoes are clearly summer shoes, the shoes have venting holes on the top in the front & on the sides, which work great, I can feel the wind blowing through.

The outer sole is the same as on the ESP version, with the same trusted S1 rubber.

The Freerider is a quite breathable & lightweight shoe, they are higher over the ankle than the EPS version.
from the left: Impact high, Freerider, Freerider EPS
Freerider EPS & Freerider

They have differences but they have the same fit.

Five Ten Impact High Vs Five Ten freerider high_0086

The Impact has much higher mid sole.

from the left: Impact high, Freerider, Freerider EPS

Five Ten freerider high_0053
Five Ten freerider high_0042

Feel & comfort.

Five Ten Freerider Noir_5110

But the Freerider ESP is comfortable when running, the sole bends as much as running shoes upwards, I think the Freerider shoe is a well thought out shoe.

I can feel the surface I walk on & the pedals, without any discomfort, which gives me a good feel of what the bike is doing & this is a good thing for walking up things if you can’t ride over/on.

in the video below you can see how these shoes are when walking.

Five Ten freerider high_0091

August 2018 the shoes were worn out.

When these shoes wore out, I got new shoes of the same model.

Here you can see the new and worn out sole compared to the new sole.

Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0046
Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0041
Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0028

A Closer look at the wear at the ball of the foot:

Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear sole damage_4030
Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear sole damage_4033
Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear sole damage_4020crop
Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0049
Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear Rear damage_4006

Because my feet misalign, I pop them back in place using the pedal this is causing wear on the rear of the shoes. I might need to get ankle supports to keep my feet more stable.

Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear_4017edit
Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear_4036

The wear here is probably due to friction between the tongue & the sides of the shoe, and the the wear on the sides is probably a combo of the pads and the tongue.

Five Ten Freerider High Noir August 2018 wear_4039

New shoe on the left and worn shoe on the right

Used Vs new Five Ten Freerider_0033

You can look at the video below and see the wear it had.


  • The laces don’t wear out after months of use they are like new, unlike the 2015 Impact shoes.
  • Very easy to tie and untie, when tying the laces, i bend my legs down and tie the shoe, with few millimetre of room between the laces and the tongue, which gives perfect tightness,without Hurting , and when doing it this way I know it’s going to be right, if I do it this way, I can tuck the laces on to the side.
  • the shoelaces don’t untie if you tighten them properly.
  • Easy to take off, the tongue won’t restricts you from taking the shoes on and off fast.
  • The Tongue stays in place.
  • good fit, enough room for big toes.

Freerider ESP review


Recommended, but could be improved, like the durability of the sole, and spare soles would be nice, if you could glue new sole, and make the shoe stiff enough and in right shape again, but I am not sure how good it would be with just getting new rubber on.

But there are more options on the market now, which I haven’t tried yet. for example Unpararell & Ride Consepts but at the time Five Ten Freerider were the only choice for me, and still is Because I needed high top riding shoe, because I wanted to protect the rear of my foot ankles from pedal strikes and scraping my feet on things.

Other reviews: https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Flat-Pedal-Shoes,60/Five-Ten/Freerider-High,18618#product-reviews/3545/expand

revised Short term review: Park Tool OM-1 Bench top Overhaul Mat


Originally posted 15 may 2017, but updated with pictures and improved text.



  • The knobs in the mat will keep small parts from rolling off.
  • It sticks to my painted kitchen table/dinner table well.


  • Reacts to direct sunlight / heat it bends upwards
PArktool workbench mat_20190112_133235edit

Keep it away from sunlight!!!, the mat bent upwards, and made it almost useless, to fix this you have to put your heaviest tools on it and let it lay in the sunlight for a long time.
For some reason, there was red discolouration in the white park tool logo.

I noticed something similar on my 100% Race Craft goggles,the same red color on my on the top on the 100% logo, as I have a the helmet is white there and has no red in it there should not be any color transfer, I don’t know why this happen.


I have not tried other mats, but So far I like this one, But keep it away from the direct sunlight.


Cane Creek Crank Preloader – Review

I have used it since summer 2018.

There is a huge difference is how smooth the Cane Creek collar spins vs the original preload collar from Race Face, making it easy to adjust the preload. the original Race Face collar with a tiny weak wood screw. But the Collar from Cane Creek was a big improvement, to the Robust Race Face Cranks, they served me well and took some abuse, but the collar and screw always annoyed me. So far I haven’t found anything negative about it.

Cane Creek Preload Collar on Race Face ccrank_5506
Cane Creek Preload Collar on Race Face ccrank_5506
Crish King - Race Face Turbine- Cane Creek Preload Collar_2857
Chris King Threadfit30_4511
Chris King Thread fit 30_20180927_113708

Cane Creek Preload collar on Race Face Atlast crank_5499
Cane Creek Preload collar on Race Face Atlast crank_5497

The Titanium bolt bolt has also stayed secure for months, but I had to adjust the preload, it doesn’t loosen up fast like on the original Race Face preload collar, it can stay secure for months, so it’s more secure than the original preload collar.

The bolt has no signs of wear in months of use, which was not the case for the wood screw on original preload collar, which rounded off after fast.


The gold thread ring is not used for Race Face cranks, but for Sram cranks.

Cane Creek Preload collar on Race Face Atlast crank_5503
Crank arm_20180927_110352

Flickr Photo Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmi3PwY3

Product Page: https://www.canecreek.com/product/crank-preloader/

I got mine from https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/cane-creek-alloy-preload-collar-with-ti-bolt-for-30mm-spindles

Hope Tech 36.4 mm Bolt seat post clamp – long-term review

Hope Tech 36.4 mm Bolt Seat post clamp

Hope Tech 36.4 mm Bolt Seat post clamp
Hope Tech 36.4 mm Bolt Seat post clamp

The non drive side/ left side has an egg shaped threaded piece which the bolt threads into, this eliminates the possibility of ruining the clamp, via the bolt, as this part could be replaced, but I haven’t seen it sold desperately.

Hope Tech 36.4 mm Bolt Seat post clamp

I bought these in august 2017, and used them since to now, 2019.


  • The bolt has worn significantly, quite fast. I have two of these so I had to switch I did not want to round the bolt off, and end up with loose seat post.
Wear on bolt for Hope Tech seat post clamp
Wear on bolt for Hope Tech seat post clamp
Wear on bolt for Hope Tech seat post clamp
Seat post clamp bolt wear_20181129_090959Edit
  • the hex key does does not fit as tight as I wish it did, I have tried Park Tool Hex keys and Teng Tools bits which are even more precise than Park Tools Hex (Bondhus) keys. I noticed it was not good tolerances between the tool first when it the first use, with a park tool multi tool (Bondhus). I don’t know who makes the bolts.
  • Bolt can loosen up fast in big temp changes. Even with Loctite 243 the bolt has loosened up every time I took the bike out from the room temperature indoors to cold winter outside, few minutes and it was loose, so if you plan to ride with extreme temperature changes and ride hard it will eventually come loose and seat post will spin, this is also be common issue with seat rail clamps on many dropper post, or seat posts. Of course how fast it will depend on material combo and load, vibrations it gets, also had issue with loose bolts on Shimano brake levers clamps, and race face stems, but for secure stem Renthal Apex is has worked well for me, but for seat post clamps I don’t know which are the best, this was my first aftermarket seat post clamp.
i have Hope _1581

I haven’t had any other issues with the clamp, the bolt turns smoothly


  • the bolt turns smoothly
  • it fits precisely on the seat tube.
  • Lovely Laser etching
  • even surfaces, well made, no sharp edges, but it has a tiny texture to it, which also can bee seen, which some might like, you can clearly see it’s CNC machined.

Product Page: https://www.hopetech.com/products/accessories/seat-clamp/seat-clamp/

Flickr Photo Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskQ7TiRk

Most interesting frames for me 2018/2019

I have looked at most bikes on the market, here is the list of the most interesting bikes to me for 2018.


My requirements for new bike:

  • I measured my setup and what would be setup I want, here are the results.

On my current set up, I would have to have increased reach, bars to be between be higher, so it would be 30mm to 40 mm rise, wheel base is too short, steering is not stable enough.

I think something close to 490 500mm, or something close to it.

I measured my current bike to get an idea of desired reach: Example 430 reach minus 50mm stem, plus 20 mm difference if I would run shorter 30mm stem plus =desired reach at ca 490,so little bit less or more might work like 500mm, I can play with the spacers and rise,stem length a little bit.

30mm is of course rounded off as the stem would be 33mm.

  • also Longer wheelbase
  • more stable steering
  • better tyre clearance
  • stiff enough frame, for me to not bend rear dérailleurs, or wear out chains after 80km, or anything crazy fast like that.
  • Dual shear linkages, or a system that eliminates the need for them, if single shear it has to have the stop for bearing on the correct side, to avoid bearings slipping out.
  • good cable routing, it has to be easy to install and remove the cables & wires.
  • Proper solution for headset & bottom bracket, for reliability.
  • the frame has to have a protective layer like paint, powder coating, Anodizing, I will ride in the winter, so I need it to be well protected against salt, which will corrode alloy.

Nicolai G15

Picture from https://en.nicolai-bicycles.com/frames/ion-g15/


The cable routing is easy to work with.

threaded Bottom bracket, so I can use trusty bottom brackets, like Chris King Threadfit 30, don’t have to compromise on axle weight,or bearing strength or size.

also their tailor made option is nice, so they can make you a frame that will fit you.

I have also seen the manufacturing process, which I approve of.


I like the sealed pivots & angular contact bearings, to me it seems like good ideas.

and for winter riding, extra sealing is nice, to increase service intervals.




Guerrilla Gravity The Smash

Beautiful blue color, nice livery.


In size large it has 490 mm reach.

Pole Evo Link 140 – The folding trail bike



The v1.3 has color change, and improvements, but hte reviews below review the older versions.


The Loam Ranger has a nice video about his bike:

Some reviews:



Transition Sentinel



In size large it has 475mm reach, which could fit me with long enough stem. the wheelbase is also longer than on my bike, mine got 1143mm but the Sentinel has

1247. so It will climb better and be more stable.

it has 43cm chain stays which are shorter than my current bike, 2014 Fuel ex 29, which has 45cm.

but it would be nice to have longer chain stays, for even more stability.

I like that the linkages are double shear, no misaligning bearings, or other issues.

but the routing is not optimal, but better than on my bike.

Maximum 34T chainring, that means I cant fit my 34T OVal as it is the size of 36T, so I would have to go for Ethirteen cassette with the 9T cog, to get closer top end to what I got.

some reviews:

Transition Smuggler


MDE damper 29


The large comes at 460mm reach for size large, XL at 485 So I would go for the XL I think I would go for the 485 out of these two sizes.

Where do the Shock pumps that come with most bicycle suspension come from?

This is what I know So far.

All of the pumps I have seen from suspension brands are just are branded of two brands: https://www.giyo.com.tw/ & http://www.beto.com.tw/products/index.php?index_tag_id[]=15 There different variations, different handles, different heads, colors, finishes, & they get customized to fit the brands. but there are differences, some can take more pressure than others.



Picture from DVO site: http://tech.dvosuspension.com/setup/emerald/air-pressure-guide/




Pumps each by Brands/Manufacture’s pumps next to each other

The Pump on hte left is a Giyo GS-02 rebranded for Marzocchi & on the right has no branding but comes with Trek Bikes & it’s a Beto SP-002AGN



pump to the right is made by BETO  and is rebranded for: Marzocchi,Monitou,Spin Doctor, pump is a
fox use the same body but with round handle & Fox branding on inside the pressure meter
the pressure meter is also used by RavX and Syncros( now owned by Scott sports)
the screw-on valve tip is also used on Shockmate 2.0 Suspension Pump
with Marzocchi pump you loose less air(I mean fro mthe pump hose not the suspension of course) when unscrewing it from the suspension,and the air release button releases less air than the trek pump


Giyo makes pumps for Fox & Marzocchi, DVO,Rock Shox





2010 Trek 6300 Review

2010 Trek 6300 ewhiterootbeer.jpg

The Official photo from Trek, there are two major differences, the fork is 120mm,the dropouts have a hole, but my bike came with 10mm fork and no hole in the dropout.

I got this bike for my birthday August 2011 & I have used it ever since, but less over the past few years, due to getting the 2014 Fuel Ex 29er, I needed A full suspension bike due to my back issues, but it had its shortcomings, but I kept the 6300 in pretty good shape & slowly upgrading it, but I do not ride any difficult terrain with it.

The frame Is 18.5.

Albums: https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=6300&user_id=69376314%40N07&album_search=1&view_all=1

The Shimano SL-M590 shifters:

Shimano SL-M590_4686

The shifters have a light feel, you can only up shift once gear at the time, the indicators are pointless, for me or any rider, no matter if you are working on the bike or riding it, I never looked at them.

as all the shifters on the market over many decades none of them fit me well.

Shimano SL-M590: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmgZzqz5

2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300- look down at front derailleur

Current Spec:

Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskyTmB5c

Trek 6300 at Rudsmosen_4885
at at Rudsmosen, Askim, Indre Østfold, Norway
Trek 6300 at Rudsmosen_4873
at at Rudsmosen, Askim, Indre Østfold, Norway

With the current spec, the bike can handle much more than I will ever put it trough, as I can’t ride hardtails trough rough terrain or do gnarly stuff, due to my back & neck.

Trek 6300_5666
Trek 6300_5660
at at Rudsmosen, Askim, Indre Østfold, Norway
Map at Slitu_0317edit
at Slitu, Eidsberg, Indre Østfold, Norway
at Romsåsen, Askim, Indre Østfold, Norway

current weight of the bike is about 11.90 kg with current setup, as seen in the top pictures, So it’s pretty light.

I swapped over the cockpit form the Fuel ex, including brakes, the M6300 brakes have perfect shape for my fingers and are gentle on my finger, unlike TRP Spyke which fatigues my finger after hours of riding.

The Renthal Apex Stem is great, holds on to the bar securely for a long time, My Dream build will definitely have it.

The Hope Pro 4 Enduro 26er, wheels are lighter,stiffer,stronger, and have much better engagement, but not the best engagement n the market, but good enough to not feel awkward.

The only forks I could find that would fit this bike were 100mm Recon gold, it was a fast fix, but I am interesting in the MRP forks, a 120mm fork would improve the handling of this bike a lot, this bike can handle it, so far it’s the are some gripes with the current set up significant complaint, but a dropper post would also be nice.I run 90PSI in the fork, the fork has enough mid stroke support & enough bottom out support for me, but it has horrible tyre clearance, no mudguards will fit with 2.3 tyres, you will have to go down to 2.1.

2.3 tyre clearance 2010 Trek 6300_0250
2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300-headset-Seatstays rear view
WIth Bontrager XR 1 Team Issue 2.2

The bike started out with horrible components, but over time I learned more & found more components, and the bike is reliable now.

2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300- downtube Safetywarning & EN14766

I will keep the TRP Spyke as Spares In case the hydraulic Shimano brakes fail.

The main use of this bike the past years has been grocery shopping, and gentle rides.

Oval Chain ring from Absolute black, reduced knee pain, have smoother pedal stroke, I can last much longer without knee pain and fatigue.

I could get Knee pain & fatigue after just 1-2 hours, if I rode hard, but now I can last for several hours.

Cane Creek Preload Collar

The collar was a great upgrade, it stays in place, and spins easy so it’s easy to adjust the preload,The bolt stays in place, so it’s secure.

Chris King Thread Fit bb, runs smooth but it has drag, but I don’t mind it if it will last me a long time, which the reputation suggest.

E thirteen ISCG adapter, Absolute black Oval Chain ring,73mmbb.

The chain was rubbing in the lowest gears with the MRP chain guide installed, but installing the Absolute black chain guide which has adjustable guide was an improvement, but there was still rub.

the absolute black chainring is offset by 3mm, this is causing the to rub on the inner guide plate when in lower gears, but also causes the chain to catch the second smallest cog, and slap back down, if back-pedalling not that you would do that, but if there is enough chain slap the chain this could still happen when pedalling forward, which I noticed few times, The Box One rear dérailleur’s clutch spring was very firm in the start, but it wore out quite fast, it became lighter, the shifting became much easier on my thumb, but still too much for my finger in the long run, but the chain slap increased slightly, that’s probably why I noticed the noisy banging noise from the chain catching the second last cog.

Silky smooth Chris King Inset 1

Enough clearance for 2.3 tyres,but it would ben ice with more clearance, for studded 2.3 tyres, but 2.1 studded tyres will fit.

Skoglia traktorveien_1195
at Trippestadskogen, Askim , Indre Østfold, Norway
2010 Trek 6300 rear frame 0103
28.07.2017 2010 Trek 6300 Rootbeer White_0059

because the original fork was trouble, I bought this fork, the shop installed it, it was a easy fix,but it eventually developed play, probably needs new bushings, but I had to get a fast fix so I bought the Rock Shox Recon gold, which doesn’t have has as good clearance, the Corsa fork has good clearance for both mudguard & 2.3 tyre, which the Rock Shox fork does not have, I also swapped over bars so I ended up with no bars fro this bike I had to get new bar, only thing I found at the time was this Race Face Turbine bar, but later I swapped for 800mm bars from the Trek Ffuel ex I originally bought for, eventually I swapped over the whole cockpit including Renthal Apex stem. The Fuel Ex is going to a bike shop and Trek will look at it,But I plan on new bike build at some point, So I kept this bike going.


The Avid Juicy 3 brakes were ok for a while, but they eventually wore out after few years, the lever was slow to return, the return spring for the lever wore out, which is not surprising, quite normal for springs to wear out, but my local shop could not fix it, the I pressed the lever but the braking power was not there,  it was useless, Mabbe the calipers were leaking I don’t know it was years ago, but the master cylinder was well sealed, there were no failed threads or loose bolts, but the lever blade developed play.

So it was later replaced with Shimano M615, which had a better lever feel, but they also failed eventually, so I got M6000 under warranty.

hanger 297656_0102
hanger 297656_0158
hanger 297656_0141
hanger 297656_0150
hanger 297656_0096

After 7 years of use( 4 regular rest not as often)

I failed under truing with hanger tool, I only did it few times before, But the last time I noticed something that looked like a crack, and it felt too soft, But it eventually got bigger.

because the original fork was trouble, I bought this fork, the shop installed it, it was a easy fix,but it eventually developed play, probably needs new bushings, but I had to get a fast fix so I bought the Rock Shox Recon gold, which doesn’t have has as good clearance, the Corsa fork has good clearance for both mudguard & 2.3 tyre, which the Rock Shox fork does not have, I also swapped over bars so I ended up with no bars fro this bike I had to get new bar, onlky thign I foudn at the time was this Race Face Turbine bar, but later I swapped for 800mm bars from the Trek Ffuel ex I originally bought for, eventually I swapped over the whole cockpit including Renthal Apex stem. The Fuel Ex is going to a bike shop and Trek will look at it,But I plan on new bike build at some point, So I kept this bike going.


The rear end is very easy to throw around, due to the short chain stay and the bike is very easy to initiate/start a wheelie, but with 100mm fork the steering suffers.

the steep head angle & short wheelbase makes the bike harder to do precise riding like skinnies, but it makes the bike easier to initiate a do endo turn, spinning the bike around the fork.

if I let go of the handlebar and roll the bike turn in both directions, I struggle to steer it without holding the bars, it requires some practise to do so, but I can can ride horrible bikes with horrible characteristics and still do most of the things I do with a better bike, but of course I notices the shortcomings of them, including this bike, but a longer travel fork would improve the steering and make the bike more balanced by increasing the wheelbase.


  • Due to the stiffness of the frame the chain wear is good, the chain wears slowly, unlike with 2014 Trek Fuel EX 7 29, I am quite sure it’s due to the stiffer frame, less twisting and movement, also the hanger does not get bent as fast, it can go for a really long time, several months or maybe longer, I rarely hit RD hangers, so it stays true for a long time, but with the Fuel Ex it bent very often, but I sent it to a shop for trek to look at I hope they sort it out for me.
  • The frame is stiff enough for me, I am somewhere between 75 & 80g, I don’t have any issues with tyre rub or frame flex, but if you mess up or push really hard while pedalling in a brutal way it’s possible, but if you I don’t do that which I don’t do normally, but I did that just to test what happen, so I am quite satisfied with the performance of this frame.The frame has even flex on both sides,at least very similar.
  • The welds are also good.
  • Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm, 20mm offset, I had no issues with the seat post, but the adjust jaw result in less adjusts-ability of the angle.The logo wore out quite fast, and the black paint became discoloured.


  • very slack seat tube angle, which puts the saddle too far back, even if reversing the seat post, but for a kid or shorter adult it will work, but  not for 180cm person like me, if fork was bumped up to 120 it would be a quite nice handling bike.
  • The Bontrager Rangers wheels, had weak spoke nipples which rounded off when truing the wheels, and when hit by rocks & Shimano m475 hubs was horrible, it had awful engagement, a huge dead zone, which was very noticeable, the freehub lasted about 1 season in the beginning when I was younger, but now as I am a lot heavier they wobble and causes shifting issues due to wobble, and only 3 trips and the axle bent, this was the case on all the the hubs, not only this wheelset.
  • The Bontrager Ranger wheels were heavy, the main reason is the Shimano
2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300-crank area-Shimano deore dron front derailleur -mega drive
  • The plastic on the front dérailleur was eventually hitting the frame, which caused paint damage
angle -36T Race Face Narrow wide-my 2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeerwhite
2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300- look down at front derailleur
Clearance- 36T Race Face Narrow wide-my 2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeerwhite
  • The triple chainring setup was problematic, no clainguide, and hte hcian dropped on the rougher stuff, like roots, or technical terrain, if you changed gears, a chain guide is a must, but I did not have that at hte time, so this caused chain drop damage on the paint near the bb.
11-36 10 speed x 36T Race Face Narrow wide-my 2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeer/white
  • Came with 100mm fork not with 120 as official picture shows.
  • The cockpit was not good enough, too long stem, too narrow bars, the original bars were Bontrager Lowriser 650mm 9deg bend 31.8mm dia 6061-T6 alum, I did not have any issues with them, they took some crashes, they did not bend.
my 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeer/white handle bar front
2018 Upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 BB shell_0554

Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmpHFYab

Now as I am a adult, I need 800mm bars.

The original stem

  • Bontrager Race saddle was a good fit for me, but it failed fast,  screws flew off, and the plastic plate loosened, and the saddle was useless, I don’t remember exactly how fast that happen, some months or maybe a year I don’t remember, but quite fast.
  • Bontrager Jones XR tyres were fast rolling but they lacked grip for the type of riding I did.
  • The paint is quite fragile, the paint falling off the was fro ma crowing on gravel many years ago.
  • The only problems with the frame I had was when installing Chris King headset, the frame did not match Chris King’s precision, So I had to use a hammer to make it go in straight then use the bearing press, It sits flush now, but the head tube is not completely flush at the bottom towards the down tube, there is a small gap just there. The original Cane Creek headset was very easy to remove,it does not sit there as tight, the tolerances are different, with Chris King it’s tight, the Chris King headset was a great upgrade, it’s smooth and even turning all the way.

The original VP-A42E, 1-1/8″ semi-integratedheadset from Cane Creek, I can clearly see there is a gap & the bottom of the head tube is not 100% flush.

my upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeer/white headtube

Original headset removed.

The head tube after removing the original headset.

The original worn out noisy uneven turning headset, new bearings did not help, it was time to for an upgrade, I could go on of a while but I rather have a reliable solution, So I went With Chris King.


Serial number do not remove- my upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeer/white

Great free software – summer 2018

here is a lsit of free software I use: https://kit.com/mtbboy1993/free-software-i-use

This is kind of mountain bike related, if you make videos or shoot photos or stream you will find these software very useful.

I have used or tried the software in this list, I am quite fond of most f them.

Video editing :

Da Vinci Resolve


Editing made easy, easy learning curve, great package for sure.

It offers all the features most of use need to make edit videos for Youtube.

The paid version got more features, but So far I haven’t found the need for them.


but before editing make sure the camera settings are good:



Blender, has a steeper learning curve, can be tricker to learn, but it’s a powerful video editing, rendering, animation, game engine, modelling software.


Screen capture & streaming software:

OBS Studio – Open broadcasting software


Perfect software for recording what ever you want,

no matter if you want to record or stream, it got every thing you need, it’s the best broadcasting software so far, it beats most paid options.

It got everything you need, and has more features than some commercial software

Video player:

VLC media player



Video converting


it’s not perfect, you can’t use it to upscale video but otherwise it works great, but you can do that in DaVinci Resolve but I haven’t explored everything it has to offer yet.



Photo manipulation:

here is an example of what I could do using Rawtherapee & gimp, this picture is a combination, I used gimp to combine the pictures exported and edited in Rawtherapee.




A great alternative to Photoshop, you will be able to do most things.


I haven’t tested out every feature, yet, and haven’t done a lot of skin work for sim racing games in a while, but I did it in the past, but I had to install DDS plugin for that, I don’t know much aobut the latest changes, I haven’t had the time to research those. but I had some fun iwth Gimp over the years. here are the skins I made for sim racing games: https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/authors/mtbboy1993.168461/

video below shows me recreating a livery design I did for VW Polo WRC for Assetto Corsa

Raw editing software:

RawTherapee is a great software for raw editing, even if you don’t have raw files, you can do some great improvements to the photos, that you would not be able to do in gimp.



Photos edited in Rawtherapee: https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=69376314%40N07&sort=date-taken-desc&text=rawtherapee&view_all=1

Image viewer:

A simple but effective software, it also comes with Thumbnail browser, which supports DDS files and other files most people don’t know.




Irfan view: http://www.irfanview.com/


I have only played with it a short period, but I am sure many of you will get some use of this software.



Mozilla Thunderbird

A great alternative to Microsoft’s mail software, which I found to be horribly buggy, to the point of me abandoning it.



Music player:

For audiophiles, with support for lossless audio formats, so you can listen to music in great detail. no need to convert to mp3 files, but it supports m3 files too of course.



Chat software


It’s kind of like Skype, but not quite but with more features. it gained popularty quite fast, and is the main choice of gamers.



Revised Review: Weldtite TF2 Extreme Wet Lube

I have tested the lube in very wet days in various times of the year I have also tested it in the winter in harsh conditions it performed quite well, so far this has the lube with highest consistency I have tried, so make sure you wipe off access because this lube creates ”spider webs”.

11 April 2018:

Ridelog: https://www.trailforks.com/ridelog/view/2713910/

I put on the Extreme Wet lube in case it would be wet but became quite dry, But I did not change the lube, I continued using it, it was not dry, so I rode with it after the snow was almost gone, I rode long distance on paved bike path with sand on them, the lube attracted a lot of sand.

the drive train was very crunchy, due to sand and gravel sticking to the chain. I was riding many km’s on the pavement with sand on it from the winter.

It works great in harsh winter, I have ridden in -10 Celsius, but it for very dirty conditions.

The long tip makes it easy to lube the rear dérailleur.



Muc-Off Bio Wet Lube long-term review


I have used this lube for several years, with great success, here are my experiences with it.

The muddies & wettest ride of 2017:







After few days of riding in freeze-thaw cycle with some deep long rim and shoe deep puddles getting the drivetrain asked in water slush, Crashing in wet snow, I got the chain quite noisy, so this is far worse conditions for a longer time than the Rock n’ Roll Extreme lube.

So the conclusion is Muc-Off offers a better option, for a lower price.

April 26, 2018:


May 11, 2018:


some wet some dry, some muddy spots, this is the result:

from the city centre to Skansehytta from parking.

In hot summer days when the bike stands indoors overnight, the lube gets thicker/ the consistency changes, and the chain does not run as smoothly, and the drive train will be noisier and it will attract more dust, so you need to lube it after each ride or the the next day before the ride.


This lube suits most conditions, for wet summer days to muddy wet rain autumn days, to winter, riding in slush, -11c dry icy. but won’t keep the drive train completely clean, this lube performed ok for every thing I put it trough. will last logner than the dry lube.

There might be other lubes that perform as well or better, but so far Muc Off & Weldtite has my favorite lubes.

Shimano XT M8000 11-46T casette long-term review

I have been through several cassettes and put it through its paces.

Due to the design of the cogs, the transition from each cog is excellent. The chain stays well in place with unrealistic fast backpedalling, where the sun race cassettes would drop the chain, my bike has hope pro 4hub, Absolute Black 34t.oval chainring, this but the chain at an optimal angle for the biggest cog, so this clearly shows the sun race cassette performs worse with backpedalling. As mentioned in many other reviews, the jump to the 46t cog is too big, it messes up your cadence, but I got used to it.

The XT cassette has quite stiff cogs when the chainstay wore out on my 2014 fuel ex the extra side to side movement combined with bearing misalignment caused the cogs to bend, but this will not be an issue on a bike that does not have an extreme side to side movement or bearing misalignment issues. So, in conclusion, the cassette performed well.


2015 Evoc Freeride Enduro Team 16L backpack 3 years review

Evoc FR Enduro Team Hydration backpack & 2014 Fox Rampage Pro Carbon


  • Durable
  • The pack got a lot of room for everything you really need for a ride plus more, if you want to use it for grocery shopping you can, I can fit 2 cola bottles or 2 1,5 milk cartons,3 1 L cartons
  • upper pocket got 2 Compartments with an elastic band which is perfect for a wallet and a helmet light battery charger, I sue one for Gemini Xera light battery charger and the other one for my wallet. And it’s perfect a smartphone & Go Pro mounts, small chargers.
Evoc FR Enduro Team Hydration Pack
  • the top pocket got keyholder
  • soft material inside the pocket so you don’t scratch your camera lens smartphone, I can fit a Sony experia XZ Premium smartphone in the pocket but any bigger phone won’t fit, but I prefer to have it in  short pocket instead.
The Velcro transparent pocket is nice for storing food that was in a plastic bag you have opened, for example, trail mix.
in the top pockets, I got Lezyne SV10 multi-tool, 2 Co2 cartridges, Dynaplug, the big mesh pocket can fit 2 29er tubes.  the narrower higher pocket fits a shock pump & tyre pump. in the outer pokets, I got Shopping bags & a lock.
in the big mesh pocket, I keep cables, tyre lever.

back protector comes at 145 grams with feels like nothing

side pockets with elastic band, which is great if you forgot to fill up the Hydrapak and just wants to buy a bottle of juice or soda or to keep shopping bags i

Evoc FR Enduro Team Hydration Pack Side pocket is perfect for gloves

no matter how aggressive riding I did, jumping, riding in stairs, the zippers staid in place

Side waist pocket, which is perfect for rubber gloves or a small snack

Evoc FR Enduro Team Hydration Pack-Park Tool gloves inside side pocket
Snapped zipper slider, but this is not a surprise, zippers eventually fail, So it’s great that Evoc decided on dual zippers.

March 2018

the plastic zipper extension failed.

The Velcro got work out, it was not gripping.

The belt keeps the backpack from bouncing. The Velcro got worn out worn after about 2 years of use, so it did not stay in place by itself, but with buckle strap, it stays in place still after 3 years. But if you need new Velcro straps you can buy new and sew them on, so that’s not really an issue. The buckle & the other plastic parts still work great.

Worn out Velcro Evoc FR enduro 16L_1116

27 march 2018 it snapped, which is not surprising at all. But not too bad.

Snapped zipper grip Evoc FR Enduro _1138

eventually the other snapped few months later.

I fixed it with a zip ties.

DIY zipper hack_20181121_095957Edit

It has a strap for mounting rear light.


The helmet holder is also nice for securing toilet paper or anything similar when you are grocery shopping.


March 21, 2019 the zipper failed during a ride.

Zipper Failure on Evoc FR Enduro 16L

It was time for a new backpack.

2015 EVOC FR Enduro 16L
Some wear at the bottom of the pack.
2015 EVOC FR Enduro 16L
The tool pockets have damage after years of use.
# B106 2015 EVOC FR Enduro 16L
Hose holder 2015 EVOC FR Enduro 16L

The buckles and straps were still in great condition.

Hose holder 2015 EVOC FR Enduro 16L
2015 EVOC FR Enduro 16L
2015 EVOC FR Enduro 16L
This is where the back protector plate is secured.
2015 EVOC FR Enduro 16L
As wide it would open.


  • the logos will start to peel off after one season of use.
  • The straps are fatiguing shoulder & neck area with heavier loads.
  • The zipper gets cough on this spot so I had to use my fingers to move this bump out of the way.
2015 EVOC FR Enduro 16L


  • if you use the helmet holder for an xc or trail helmet, make sure you get the front down and all the way in otherwise it will be too loose
  • you have to have the zippers on the side or it will take in water because of the gap in the 2 step zipper
  • to get most comfortable fit, loosen all straps, let the back pack sag down, until it bottom outs, it will bottom out somewhere with the stomach belt under the navel, then tighten the bottom straps where you feel right, and then the chest strap, it’s not perfect comfort at all times, but it will result in the most comfortable fit possible with this back pack.



After about 3 years of use, it’s still going strong. I am Sure I will be able to use it for many more years.

Flickr Album: https://wp.me/p60aTF-u3

TRP ML930 mechanical lever 5 months review

The lever body has visible flex while braking, But I can’t notice it while braking.

TRP offers a carbon version of this lever, which is ML940.



  • better ergonomics than Spyke lever, it got a rounder profile, not as great as Shimano’s shape.
  • Excellent barrel adjuster, it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.
  • Lighter than the ML800 Spyke levers
  • Hinged mount for easy removal
  • Rech adjustment so these levers will work well for a kids bike.
  • I have these levers on both of my fuel ex 29ers, and they the levers on both survived crashes, on one it survived over the bar crash, where the bike landed parked upsidedownThe brake on the other bike like it survived a fall about 1 meter from a concrete wall.


  • Flex in the lever body when braking hard, Which also is present in the Spyke levers.
  • I could never get the reach adjustment bolt to fit securely for long, after some days the bolt would come loose, although I used Loctite 243 I think this is due to the flex in the lever body when braking hard, So I had to add Loctite often.
  • When the levers were new they were a significant amount of up & down play in the lever, which also is present in the Spyke levers, which increased over time. The metal bushings had some wear too, on the top and on the inside, which also contributed to the increased play, but there was significant play from the beginning, due to the bad tolerances, there was a small gap between the bushings and the lever body. The video below shows lever play after 5 months of use, but it was pretty much the same from the beginning.If you ride hard and the brake lever is pressed slightly at an angle due to the play it feels rough. All could easily be avoided if TRP had made it to a tighter tolerance, and used bearings or bushings, for the lever puller.But I have not found another mechanical brake lever that has these features.






  • the use of rivet for wire puller was a bad choice, it causes fast wear, and more play, than when they were new, and it already had a lot of play, In my opinion, bearings  or bushings would be a better solution. after some weeks of use the lever made some noises, due to the wear, I had to lube the moving parts, it kept getting worse, I continued to lube it regularly.







TRP ML 930 levers fitted on a 800mm Race Face Sixc handlebar, I have them setup 3cm from the grips.

A closer look at the components the Lever is put together with:

The return spring

Lever blade with all parts installed as it would be in the lever body. I managed to do some minor damage to the bolt, in a crash.

Clearly visible damage caused by play in the wire puller, there was significantly more play, in after few months of use, it was a bad choice to use rivets for the wire puller.

whole lever blade assembly: DU FLANGE bushings o lever, return spring, bolt & axle.

Weight vs more reliable reach adjustment. 




 I can’t call the M930 an upgrade or better than the  Spyke levers, the Spyke levers have the reach adjustment on the inside of the lever blade so the flex in the lever body won’t affect the adjustment, it’s also easier to reach, and adjust with a allen key.

I knew this could could be an issue on M930 levers , but I later found the Spyke levers, on chainreactioncycles.


Marzocchi Remote  & TRP Spyke lever_0289



this is not a perfect mechanical brake lever, neither is the Spyke, but due to the more reliable reach adjustment, I will use the Spyke lever instead.

But it’s not perfect, it has flaws, the rivets in the lever pullers for example.

A mix of these two levers, with the best elements, plus bearing would make a pretty good lever, but nothing like that exist yet to my knowledge.

quick test ride on 26inch Alprace Sasquatch 2.6 (coop department store bike)



the bike felt quite heavy when riding it, heavier steering than my fuel ex 7 29er, As the tyres are bigger & wider the wheels are heavier.

the steering was quite decent,  there was no strange steering like on the Diamant 24inch, the bike did go where I wanted it to, when I wanted it to.

the Tektro brakes felt easy to press, and control, similar to Shimano’s, but a bit different, with good modulation, and braking power.
The frame did not have too much flex.

I did not have enough time to properly test ride this bike as the owner had to ride away.


I can’t recommend cheap bikes like these, the components are not great, no clutch on the Shimano Rear derailleur, square taper bottom bracket.

I have still not tested a fat bike in my size.