I think it’s fitting that this is taking the place of my annual NAHBS post. This post is about idiots making decisions, marketing of garbage, and what happens on a ride when something that is supposed to work, doesn’t. 528 more words
I had few weeks on this stem, so far I like it, but the bolts that came with my stem were disappointing.
- The stem held the bars well, there were no issues with losing bolts or any other issues.
- The rental stems have great design, which allows low weight, But I did not notice any difference in stiffness & ride feels, from the Race Face Atlas Stem, which is heavily overbuilt.
The stem is well machined, very smooth, no rough surfaces, but the edges are not rounded off to the section between steerer and handlebar are quite pointy, but this does not matter much, unless you slam your hand there, which is unlikely.
The bolts showed signs of wear after the first installation, the tolerances between the tool and the bolts are quite loose, the diameter measurements are between 4.15 up to 4.24mm The park tools measurements are 3.99mm, the after few times of tightening the headset, I managed to damage the bolts, the bots became more damaged after tightening headset.
It might be that the bolts I got are just a manufacturing fluke for this batch, but there is no way for me to know for sure, but if all bolts are like this, this is a huge disappointment and should be addressed ASAP.
This stem seems like a great option if you want lightweight, durable, stiffness, and don’t want to spend a lot of money on a carbon stem like an Enve AM for example..
These shoes are clearly summer shoes, the shoes have venting holes on the top in the front & on the sides, which work great, I can feel the wind blowing through.
The outer sole is the same as on the ESP version, with the same trusted S1 rubber.
They have differences but they feel the same.
from the left: Impact high, Freerider, Freerider EPS
Feel & comfort.
But the Freerider ESP is comfortable when running, the sole bends as much as running shoes upwards, I think the Freerider shoe is a well thought out shoe.
I can feel the surface I walk on & the pedals, without any discomfort, which gives me a good feel of what the bike is doing & this is a good thing for walking up things you can’t ride over/on.
- The laces don’t wear out after months of use they are like new, unlike the 2015 Impact shoes.
- Very easy to tie and untie, when tying the laces, i bend my legs down and tie the shoe, with few millimetre of room between the laces and the tongue, which gives perfect tightness,without Hurting , and when doing it this way I know it’s going to be right, if I do it this way, I can tuck the laces on to the side.
- the shoelaces don’t untie if you tighten them properly.
- Easy to take off, the tongue won’t restricts you from taking the shoes on and off fast.
- The Tongue stays in place.
You can’t find a better platform summer high top Mtb shoe on the market right now if you want this, Five Ten is the only choice, I only ride with higher shoes, due to the added protection.
I have been through several cassettes and put it through its paces.
Due to the design of the cogs, the transition from each cog is excellent. The chain stays well in place with unrealistic fast backpedalling, where the sun race cassettes would drop the chain, my bike has hope pro 4hub, Absolute Black 34t.oval chainring, this but the chain at an optimal angle for the biggest cog, so this clearly shows the sun race cassette performs worse with backpedalling. As mentioned in many other reviews, the jump to the 46t cog is too big, it messes up your cadence, but I got used to it.
The XT cassette has quite stiff cogs when the chainstay wore out on my 2014 fuel ex the extra side to side movement combined with bearing misalignment caused the cogs to bend, but this will not be an issue on a bike that does not have an extreme side to side movement or bearing misalignment issues. So, in conclusion, the cassette performed well.
- The pack got alot of room for every thing you really need for a ride plus more, id you want to use it for grosery shopping you can, I can fit 2 cola bottles or 2 1,5 milk cartons,3 1 L cartons
- upper pocket got 2 Compartments with an elastic band which is perfect for a wallet and a helmet light battery charger, I sue one for Gemini Xera light battery charger and the other one for my wallet. And it’s perfect a smartphone & Go Pro mounts, small chargers.
- the top pocket got keyholder
- soft material inside the pocket so you don’t scratch your camera lens smartphone, I can fit a Sony experia XZ Premium smartphone in the pocket but any bigger phone won’t fit, but I prefer to have it in short pocket instead.
- back protector comes at 145 grams with feels like nothing.
- side pockets with elastic band, which is great if you forgot to fill up the Hydrapak and just wants to buy a bottle with juice or soda or to keep shopping bags in.
- Tool compartment
- no matter how aggressive riding I done, jumping, riding in stairs, the zippers staid in place.
- Side waist pocket, which is perfect for rubber gloves or a small snack:
The belt keeps the back pack from bounging. The Velcro got worn quite worn after about 2 years of use, so it did notstay in place by it selc, but with buckle strap it stays in place still after 3 years. But if you need new Velcro straps you can buy new and sew them on, so tha’ts ntoreally an issue. The buckle & the other plastic parts still works great.
- the logos will start to peal off after one season of use.
- if you use the helmet holder for a xc or trail helmet, make sure you get the front down and all the way in other wise it will be too loose
- you have to have the zippers to the side or it will take in water because of the gap in the 2 step zipper
After about 3 years of use it’s still going strong. I am Sure I will be able to use it fore many more years.
The lever body has visible flex while braking, But I can’t notice it while braking.
TRP offers a carbon version of this lever, which is ML940.
- Excellent barrel adjuster, it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.
- Lighter than the ML800 Spyke levers
- Hinged mount for easy removal
- Rech adjustment so these levers will work well for a kids bike.
- I have these levers on both of my fuel ex 29ers, and they the levers on both survived crashes, on one it survived over the bar crash, where the bike landed parked upsidedownThe brake on the other bike like it survived a fall about 1 meter from a concrete wall.
- Flex in the lever body when braking hard, Which also is present in the Spyke levers.
- I could never get the reach adjustment bolt to fit securely for long, after some days the bolt would come loose, although I used Loctite 243 I think this is due to the flex in the lever body when braking hard, So I had to add Loctite often.
- When the levers were new they were a significant amount of up & down play in the lever, which also is present in the Spyke levers, which increased over time. The metal bushings had some wear too, on the top and on the inside, which also contributed to the increased play, but there was significant play from the beginning, due to the bad tolerances, there was a small gap between the bushings and the lever body. The video below shows lever play after 5 months of use, but it was pretty much the same from the beginning.If you ride hard and the brake lever is pressed slightly at an angle due to the play it feels rough. All could easily be avoided if TRP had made it to a tighter tolerance, and used bearings or bushings, for the lever puller.But I have not found another mechanical brake lever that has these features.
- the use of rivet for wire puller was a bad choice, it causes fast wear, and more play, than when they were new, and it already had a lot of play, In my opinion, bearings or bushings would be a better solution. after some weeks of use the lever made some noises, due to the wear, I had to lube the moving parts, it kept getting worse, I continued to lube it regularly.
A closer look at the components the Lever is put together with:
Weight vs more reliable reach adjustment.
I can’t call the M930 an upgrade or better than the Spyke levers, the Spyke levers have the reach adjustment on the inside of the lever blade so the flex in the lever body won’t affect the adjustment, it’s also easier to reach, and adjust with a allen key.
I knew this could could be an issue on M930 levers , but I later found the Spyke levers, on chainreactioncycles.
this is not a perfect mechanical brake lever, neither is the Spyke, but due to the more reliable reach adjustment, I will use the Spyke lever instead.
But it’s not perfect, it has flaws, the rivets in the lever pullers for example.
A mix of these two levers, with the best elements, plus bearing would make a pretty good lever, but nothing like that exist yet to my knowledge.
the bike felt quite heavy when riding it, heavier steering than my fuel ex 7 29er, As the tyres are bigger & wider the wheels are heavier.
the steering was quite decent, there was no strange steering like on the Diamant 24inch, the bike did go where I wanted it to, when I wanted it to.
the Tektro brakes felt easy to press, and control, similar to Shimano’s, but a bit different, with good modulation, and braking power.
The frame did not have too much flex.
I did not have enough time to properly test ride this bike as the owner had to ride away.
I can’t recommend cheap bikes like these, the components are not great, no clutch on the Shimano Rear derailleur, square taper bottom bracket.
I have still not tested a fat bike in my size.
Although this bike was too small for me, my points are still valid, I have ridden other 24inch bikes, it’s not the size that makes this bike handle so horrible.This bike is anything but playful, the bike is so heavy its almost glued to the ground, It was impossible for me to do a wheelie or do even a short manual, even jumping was hard, because the weight kept the bike down.
The brakes lack power, due to only one piston.
but bunny hops are of course more difficult on a smaller bike, but it still felt way too heavy.
Riding up stair steps, in the skatepark, worked without any issues.
The drivetrain is a joke, it’s outdated and
when I turned to left it wanted to stay left and this was with the tyres pumped hard.
the fork has a big offset, and the head tube is slack, It’s overkill.
The bike is way too heavy, I am strong, and I could not get the front wheel to stay up, it was just slamming down hard, bunny hopping was quite hard, due to the weight.
Many of the Diamant bikes are rebranded bikes from other bike brands, Rockmachine is one of them, But I do not know if this one is rebranded or not.
I can’t recommend such heavy bike, even for an adult it’s way too heavy.
Australian distributor: http://www.fatbike.com.au/
The remote has a well-designed clamp, there are 2 threaded holes for inward-outward adjustment to get the lever positioned perfectly.
The barrel adjuster is very fragile, it can easily be bent or kinked, It’s likely this will happen in a crash if the housing forces it to bend, but it’s so weak you don’t need a crash for it to fail, I never crashed so badly that the barrel adjuster would bend.
Check out Peter Verdone’s post about remote:
the barrel adjuster on his remote snapped.
A closer look at the lever:
The bearing measurements:
Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm6h8Mih
So far I’ve not had a crash where there was an impact on hte lever, So I can’t comment on this at this point.
Easily misaligned if you use Velcro straps:
Using the provided Velcro straps, there will be significant movement which will cause the mudguard to move into the tyre, technical trails. I have of course had them as snug as possible, when it’s moving there is a risk of getting small branches stuck between the tyre and the mudguard.
See videos below:
But going for zip ties instead, will make it more secure, But there will still cane move if you hit it, so In a crash, it might misalign, So far I have not had issues with it misaligning, or tyre rub. I have ridden pretty fast and hard without any issues, but who knows what will happen later, But I think it will stay on ok.
This mudguard is much better than RRP Enduro guard, more coverage, and more durable, but still not perfect.
The provided stickers are pointless as they will not fit the style of every bike, and they just wear out.
The mud guard does definitely make a difference less mud on my goggles, it did not eliminate it completely, but no fender/guard will.
Since september, I have used the mudguard soem more, but I upgraded to Mudhugger.
I swapped the guard over to the hardtail, But when i did it I noticed the plastic has cracked in the gfork leg mountign holes.
it gives soem protection but not perfect, I have used Mudhugger FR which does a much better job, it trows the dirt back down in hte front,and has more mounting holes.
For me, the fastest & easiest solution when the awful Shimano M552 cranks failed, was to get turbine cranks. The cranks on my trek 6300 bike failed, so I de sided to switch to my trusted Turbine crank, plus crisp King bb, so I decided to try Atlas cranks, I thought I would notice the difference, and I did.
I am about 75kg, (but this number varies on how much stuff I got in my backpack, I have not weighed in a long time, so I am probably heavier now.) with all the gear on
I have read reviews saying that there will not be noticeable differences, that was coming to a heavier reviewer, but pink bike review stated that there was a difference, their review is good so take a read d: https://pinkbike.com/news/race-face-atlas-cinch-crankset-review-2016.html
The crankset is quite similar looking, but there are several differences, the turbine cranks look pretty similar to the Atlas cranks, but the Turbine have a lot more material shaved off in arm where the bolt is & on the tip, the is also a difference in how much material is shaved off behind the crank, the Atlas has more material near the pedal.
for commuting, or xc/light trail, these cranks were stiff enough, but on rougher trails, I could feel the difference in stiffness or another technical riding. I think turbine cranks have a good stiffness compromise & of lightweight.
First ride with Atlas cranks:
Even before riding the cranks on the trail I could feel the difference in stiffness, just by a quick test in being on the bike in the kitchen, I tested a lot of positions, but then I took it for a spin on the trails some days later.
The first ride on the trails, I felt the difference, even though my frame is quite flexible in the BB area.
I could feel that the Atlas cranks were stiffer while riding technical trials.
Both of the crankshaft a nylon preloading, which has a small Allen screw, which was easel rounded off even though I was very gentle.
I think turbine cranks have a good stiffness compromise & of lightweight, so perfect for a commuter bike or for lighter riders.
I am all for everything that gives me better control, and stability, which both Turbine and Atlas cranks gave me over the cheaper much more flexible Shimano cranks I have ridden in the past.
scratches easy and gets covered in scratches fast, just takes few days to get it all scratched up, few weeks and the touch is does not work properly.
anything hard will scratch it with ease.
easy to apply and remove.
waste of money.
First thing I noticed when un-boxing it was the nasty smell of the rubber,which eventually goes away after few days.
the installation is easily done with 1.5mm Allen key,which is a smart design,unlike those cases that just slip on,they are pointless as they would fall off on impact, but the Powerful case can many hits.
I have crashed hard on a asphalt bike path I lost control as my joints slipped twisting my bars to the left I landed sideways on my shoulder and my thigh resulting in damage of my shorts, a hole and a damaged zipper, but the case protected the phone.
I noticed the case has been bent from the middle Allen screws,This might be from the crash, as it was a hard crash.
I tried to scratch the Screen protector with a Allen key, but it did not scratch.
The protective screen cover is very weak, it does not withstand the abuse I but it trough when mountain biking.
The screen protector can’t handle any flex, so having it in your pocket will destroy the screen protector, the shorts will move your muscles will move, the phone well move, so it will be destroyed fast.
I don’t know what actually damaged the screen protector, But it’s most likely me just riding with the phone in the pocket in my Poc shorts,Which I am pretty sure is the reason.
But the bike path crash I had did not result in any visible damage on the screen protector, but it might have damaged it any way, later I went for some long mountain bike rides, one time the zipper failed, so it was sliding down, which might have damaged the screen protector, or it might have been that I hit my thigh on the Timber bell or the dropper post remote, or maybe it was the flex in the protective case at some point on the ride, I don’t really know.
Video below shows how easy I could take apart the shattered protector.
In the video below you can see how where I put my phone while riding:
In my hands:
at the first times I tried using the shutter button I had difficulties with getting it to work, but it was probably just a small alignment issue when I put it together, after few more tries it worked flawlessly.
The case has rubber almost all the way around the sides & the back/rear side of the phone, but they don’t eliminate slipping, they definitely reduce it but , it still will slip, but the raised edges of the case make holding the phone more secure, the edges stops it from slipping.
when taking pictures or filming for example I can securely hold my phone with my trigger finger on the shutter speed, and the thumb in the upper corner, and my left thumb in the other lower corner, or my whole left thumb up to the right corner which gives good and stable grip.
The rubber buttons work flawlessly and feel great, but as it’s weak rubber it will eventually wear out,I have used it for few month, without any major signs of wear, but I can see the buttons are rounded off a little bit.
I have been using the case in rain and humid weather and I have not had any issues with water coming inside.
The rubber on the backside is meant as a heatsink.
Verdict: Ok case, with awful Screen protector
If you get this Case get a better screen protector.
So far this is one of the best case I have found, but the screen protector is horrible.
I have only used this bike as spare bike in the summer, but I used the bike one and a half winters, the same thing happen as the Acera cranks, the square taper hole had damage, it did not show as much as this bike was not used as much,I noticed it before any huge play, as on the Acera crank there was damage to the corners, there were some scratches and small crushed metal,but I also noticed the UN26 bottom bracket was worn out, it was barely used, just used few days, they lasted quite long before, But I did not check the play for play in the bb.
These cranks are about as flexible as the Acera cranks.
these cranks don’t work well with 1x set up as the offset of the middle ring is too far outwards, so without spacers, the drivetrain will be very noisy.
So, of course, these cranks and BB were removed, I can’t have components like these on a bike I ride because I will destroy them, For me, it’s not saving money, but wasting money & time, Only High-end components for me!
The rear of the jersey has a mesh, so you back will be a lot cooler, I have noticed a difference, when riding with backpack, perfect jersey for hot summer days.
Jerseys like these are a lot cooler than not wearing any thing, because sweat goes in the fabric off your body, and tries up, and air cools you down.
the jersey don’t have any uncomfortable stitching or labels.
The jersey I got have blue & white color livery, so it’s quite visible.
The jersey has a perfect fit, and works well with body armour.
The jersey has a excellent fit, my Size Is XL, I use L for Alpinestars,L/G for Mavic
I definitely recommend these jerseys.
This rear derailleur has been on some long rides, and got some abuse.
I have ridden this rear derailleur since 2015, some weeks in 2016 & the whole 2016/2017 winter plus one winter, and some weeks and days in the summer of 2017.
I ride a lot, I ride at least 5 days in a week, from 1 hour few hours, depending on how I ride up to 20 plus km, sometimes less, but my point is I ride a lot
I have mostly used this rear derailleur with 1x setup.
Sometimes I am unlucky and crash or mess up on a technical climb, and this is why the rear derailleur got some scratches, It had some scratches before the crash, for smaller impacts, but the last crash really shows damage, but it’s only cosmetic damage, so my conclusion is that this is a robust rear derailer able to take a lot of abuse, but the pins and swing arms are not replaceable, So when has play you have to get a new rear derailleur.
I crashed off a 1 m concrete wall, the cage was grinding against the wall, I had shifting issues, First I thought they might be the result of the crash, But later I found it not to be the case.
I Did an inspection on the rear dérailleur, I checked all the adjustment screws I took off the cage and did a service, the cage was bent, So I straightened it, but the shifting issues were still present. So I checked them, but then I checked for play, the rear dérailleur had huge play, so it was definitely the play. causing issues.
but I straightened it, but after few days of riding, I noticed shifting issues, So I checked the all the adjustment screws, but then I checked for play, the rear dérailleur had huge play, so it was definitely the play. causing issues.
after riding few weeks with, there was just too much play to do up-shifts, the play caused the Rd to hesitate on shifts.
SLX M675 comes with bad jockey wheels, but you can upgrade to proper jockey wheels, the problem with the stock jockey wheels is that the that the jockey wheel and the metal ring grind against with other and cause damage to the jockey wheel which causes it to not spin smoothly.
Even upgrading to XT jockey wheels which work better, they are not that great, Hope has better spacers, they are Labyrinth style spacers, so the bearings are more protected against contaminants.
I recommend upgrading to Hope jockey wheels or similar, with proper bearings & proper cover.
It leaves your gear smelling fresh,If you apply a lot of of foam,but it won’t do a better job than hand soap.
Dish soap or hand soap can do better:
Does not work as well, as normal hand soap will.
I used Lano hand soap to clean it,So far Lano soap & Zalo (Zalo is a quite common dish soap which a lot of people use to clean their bikes, not perfect for drivetrains,which Muc off degreasers do well and getting that brown color off you bike, which the last one Muc-Off Nano Tech Bike Cleaner does a great job with.) has been very good at cleaning all kinds of things out of my hands,apart chain lubes and stuff like this, But for cleaning stuff soaked in sweat it works great.So I had to try it.
With these 2 soaps you can see the helmet the effect of the soap quite fast.
with these 2 soaps I managed to clean helmet inserts so there was no dirty water coming out when rising off, which Muc off fresh foam did not, when rising off, there were dirty water after many tries, even after applying the foam and let it soak in and and rub with a sponge, there were still very dirty water when rising off many times.
Most dish soap will do the job,But make sure you don’t use to soaps/cleaners on helmets that can damage the materials.
Muc off fresh foam can clean lenses filled with dirt, but not much else.
Getting the sweat soaked helmet inserts, or adjustment straps clean & completely without a stink is impossible.
I even Tried to clean my Forest smelling Five ten Freerider shoes, which did not work, the shoes still smelled like forest, even after applying a lot of foam many times with aggressive cleaning with a rag.
Another bad thing about the foam is that it runs out way too fast, but with liquid soap or solid soap, last way longer.
I can’t recommend this cleaner,as it does a poor job on cleaning shoes, shoe soles,goggles,helmet inserts. I won’t buy it again.
To clean properly clean items like these: shoes, shoe soles,goggles,helmet inserts.
I recommend cleaning them by hand with water and hand soap or dish soap
Using a Washing machine can damage goggle foam,plastic parts on the helmet inserts,as it is a way too brutal method.
The best method to clean shoes,helmet inserts, similar things, is to use water, hand soap or dishwashing soap, and a sponge.
soak the item in water, apply soap, get soap every where with a sponge, let the soap do its job few minutes,then use the sponge clean every thing and the last the is rising the item with water. if you use hard hand soap, you can rub it against the surface you want to clean.
Time tested: 1 winter & many summer days
Make sure you wipe off access because this lube creates ”spider webs”.
- No matter if it was wet or dry it worked great.
- works great in all conditions, I have ridden in -9 Degrees Celsius, the lube does not attract dirt, and if there will be dirt it wipes off easily.
- The long tip makes it easy to lube the rear dérailleur.
So far none
- The knobs in the mat will keep small parts from rolling off.
- It sticks to my painted kitchen table/dinner table well.
- Reacts to direct sunlight, it bends upwards
Keep it away from sunlight!!!, the mat bent upwards, and made it almost useless, to fix this you have to put your heaviest tools on it and let it lay in the sunlight for a long time.
For some reason, there was red discolouration in the white park tool logo.
I noticed something similar on my 100% Race Craft goggles,the same red color on my on the top on the 100% logo, as I have a the helmet is white there and has no red in it there should not be any color transfer, I don’t know why this happen.
I have not tried other mats, but So far I like this one, But keep it away from the direct sunlight.