These shoes are clearly summer shoes, the shoes have venting holes on the top in the front & on the sides, which work great, I can feel the wind blowing through.
The outer sole is the same as on the ESP version, with the same trusted S1 rubber.
They have differences but they have the same fit.
The Impact has much higher mid sole.
from the left: Impact high, Freerider, Freerider EPS
Feel & comfort.
But the Freerider ESP is comfortable when running, the sole bends as much as running shoes upwards, I think the Freerider shoe is a well thought out shoe.
I can feel the surface I walk on & the pedals, without any discomfort, which gives me a good feel of what the bike is doing & this is a good thing for walking up things if you can’t ride over/on.
in the video below you can see how these shoes are when walking.
August 2018 the shoes were worn out.
When these shoes wore out, I got new shoes of the same model.
Here you can see the new and worn out sole compared to the new sole.
A Closer look at the wear at the ball of the foot:
Because my feet misalign, I pop them back in place using the pedal this is causing wear on the rear of the shoes. I might need to get ankle supports to keep my feet more stable.
The wear here is probably due to friction between the tongue & the sides of the shoe, and the the wear on the sides is probably a combo of the pads and the tongue.
New shoe on the left and worn shoe on the right
You can look at the video below and see the wear it had.
The laces don’t wear out after months of use they are like new, unlike the 2015 Impact shoes.
Very easy to tie and untie, when tying the laces, i bend my legs down and tie the shoe, with few millimetre of room between the laces and the tongue, which gives perfect tightness,without Hurting , and when doing it this way I know it’s going to be right, if I do it this way, I can tuck the laces on to the side.
the shoelaces don’t untie if you tighten them properly.
Easy to take off, the tongue won’t restricts you from taking the shoes on and off fast.
Recommended, but could be improved, like the durability of the sole, and spare soles would be nice, if you could glue new sole, and make the shoe stiff enough and in right shape again, but I am not sure how good it would be with just getting new rubber on.
But there are more options on the market now, which I haven’t tried yet. for example Unpararell & Ride Consepts but at the time Five Ten Freerider were the only choice for me, as I needed high top riding shoe, because I wanted to protect the rear of my foot ankles from pedal strikes and scraping my feet on things.
Originally posted 15 may 2017, but updated with pictures and improved text.
The knobs in the mat will keep small parts from rolling off.
It sticks to my painted kitchen table/dinner table well.
Reacts to direct sunlight / heat it bends upwards
Keep it away from sunlight!!!, the mat bent upwards, and made it almost useless, to fix this you have to put your heaviest tools on it and let it lay in the sunlight for a long time. For some reason, there was red discolouration in the white park tool logo.
I noticed something similar on my 100% Race Craft goggles,the same red color on my on the top on the 100% logo, as I have a the helmet is white there and has no red in it there should not be any color transfer, I don’t know why this happen.
I have not tried other mats, but So far I like this one, But keep it away from the direct sunlight.
There is a huge difference is how smooth the Cane Creek collar spins vs the original preload collar from Race Face, making it easy to adjust the preload. the original Race Face collar with a tiny weak wood screw. But the Collar from Cane Creek was a big improvement, to the Robust Race Face Cranks, they served me well and took some abuse, but the collar and screw always annoyed me. So far I haven’t found anything negative about it.
The Titanium bolt bolt has also stayed secure for months, but I had to adjust the preload, it doesn’t loosen up fast like on the original Race Face preload collar, it can stay secure for months, so it’s more secure than the original preload collar.
The bolt has no signs of wear in months of use, which was not the case for the wood screw on original preload collar, which rounded off after fast.
The gold thread ring is not used for Race Face cranks, but for Sram cranks.
I bought these in august 2017, and used them since to now, 2019.
The bolt has worn significantly, quite fast. I have two of these so I had to switch I did not want to round the bolt off, and end up with loose seat post.
the hex key does does not fit as tight as I wish it did, I have tried Park Tool Hex keys and Teng Tools bits which are even more precise than Park Tools Hex (Bondhus) keys. I noticed it was not good tolerances between the tool first when it the first use, with a park tool multi tool (Bondhus). I don’t know who makes the bolts.
Bolt can loosen up fast in big temp changes. Even with Loctite 243 the bolt has loosened up every time I took the bike out from the room temperature indoors to cold winter outside, few minutes and it was loose, so if you plan to ride with extreme temperature changes and ride hard it will eventually come loose and seat post will spin, this is also be common issue with seat rail clamps on many dropper post, or seat posts. Of course how fast it will depend on material combo and load, vibrations it gets, also had issue with loose bolts on Shimano brake levers clamps, and race face stems, but for secure stem Renthal Apex is has worked well for me, but for seat post clamps I don’t know which are the best, this was my first aftermarket seat post clamp.
I haven’t had any other issues with the clamp, the bolt turns smoothly
the bolt turns smoothly
it fits precisely on the seat tube.
Lovely Laser etching
even surfaces, well made, no sharp edges, but it has a tiny texture to it, which also can bee seen, which some might like, you can clearly see it’s CNC machined.
I have looked at most bikes on the market, here is the list of the most interesting bikes to me for 2018.
My requirements for new bike:
I measured my setup and what would be setup I want, here are the results.
On my current set up, I would have to have increased reach, bars to be between be higher, so it would be 30mm to 40 mm rise, wheel base is too short, steering is not stable enough.
I think something close to 490 500mm, or something close to it.
I measured my current bike to get an idea of desired reach: Example 430 reach minus 50mm stem, plus 20 mm difference if I would run shorter 30mm stem plus =desired reach at ca 490,so little bit less or more might work like 500mm, I can play with the spacers and rise, little bit.
30mm is of course rounded off as the stem would be 33mm.
also Longer wheelbase
more stable steering
better tyre clearance
stiff enough frame, for me to not bend rear dérailleurs, or wear out chains after 80km, or anything crazy fast like that.
Dual shear linkages, or a system that eliminates the need for them, if single shear it has to have the stop for bearing on the correct side, to avoid bearings slipping out.
good cable routing, it has to be easy to install and remove the cables & wires.
Proper solution for headset & bottom bracket, for reliability.
the frame has to have a protective layer like paint, powder coating, Anodizing, I will ride in the winter, so I need it to be well protected against salt, which will corrode alloy.
Pumps each by Brands/Manufacture’s pumps next to each other
The Pump on hte left is a Giyo GS-02 rebranded for Marzocchi & on the right has no branding but comes with Trek Bikes & it’s a Beto SP-002AGN
pump to the right is made by BETO and is rebranded for: Marzocchi,Monitou,Spin Doctor, pump is a
fox use the same body but with round handle & Fox branding on inside the pressure meter
the pressure meter is also used by RavX and Syncros( now owned by Scott sports)
the screw-on valve tip is also used on Shockmate 2.0 Suspension Pump
with Marzocchi pump you loose less air(I mean fro mthe pump hose not the suspension of course) when unscrewing it from the suspension,and the air release button releases less air than the trek pump
Giyo makes pumps for Fox & Marzocchi, DVO,Rock Shox
The Official photo from Trek, there are two major differences, the fork is 120mm,the dropouts have a hole, but my bike came with 10mm fork and no hole in the dropout.
I got this bike for my birthday August 2011 & I have used it ever since, but less over the past few years, due to getting the 2014 Fuel Ex 29er, I needed A full suspension bike due to my back issues, but it had its shortcomings, but I kept the 6300 in pretty good shape & slowly upgrading it, but I do not ride any difficult terrain with it.
The shifters have a light feel, you can only up shift once gear at the time, the indicators are pointless, for me or any rider, no matter if you are working on the bike or riding it, I never looked at them.
as all the shifters on the market over many decades none of them fit me well.
With the current spec, the bike can handle much more than I will ever put it trough, as I can’t ride hardtails trough rough terrain or do gnarly stuff, due to my back & neck.
current weight of the bike is about 11.90 kg with current setup, as seen in the top pictures, So it’s pretty light.
I swapped over the cockpit form the Fuel ex, including brakes, the M6300 brakes have perfect shape for my fingers and are gentle on my finger, unlike TRP Spyke which fatigues my finger after hours of riding.
The Renthal Apex Stem is great, holds on to the bar securely for a long time, My Dream build will definitely have it.
The Hope Pro 4 Enduro 26er, wheels are lighter,stiffer,stronger, and have much better engagement, but not the best engagement n the market, but good enough to not feel awkward.
The only forks I could find that would fit this bike were 100mm Recon gold, it was a fast fix, but I am interesting in the MRP forks, a 120mm fork would improve the handling of this bike a lot, this bike can handle it, so far it’s the are some gripes with the current set up significant complaint, but a dropper post would also be nice.I run 90PSI in the fork, the fork has enough mid stroke support & enough bottom out support for me, but it has horrible tyre clearance, no mudguards will fit with 2.3 tyres, you will have to go down to 2.1.
The bike started out with horrible components, but over time I learned more & found more components, and the bike is reliable now.
I will keep the TRP Spyke as Spares In case the hydraulic Shimano brakes fail.
The main use of this bike the past years has been grocery shopping, and gentle rides.
Oval Chain ring from Absolute black, reduced knee pain, have smoother pedal stroke, I can last much longer without knee pain and fatigue.
I could get Knee pain & fatigue after just 1-2 hours, if I rode hard, but now I can last for several hours.
Cane Creek Preload Collar
The collar was a great upgrade, it stays in place, and spins easy so it’s easy to adjust the preload,The bolt stays in place, so it’s secure.
Chris King Thread Fit bb, runs smooth but it has drag, but I don’t mind it if it will last me a long time, which the reputation suggest.
E thirteen ISCG adapter, Absolute black Oval Chain ring,73mmbb.
The chain was rubbing in the lowest gears with the MRP chain guide installed, but installing the Absolute black chain guide which has adjustable guide was an improvement, but there was still rub.
the absolute black chainring is offset by 3mm, this is causing the to rub on the inner guide plate when in lower gears, but also causes the chain to catch the second smallest cog, and slap back down, if back-pedalling not that you would do that, but if there is enough chain slap the chain this could still happen when pedalling forward, which I noticed few times, The Box One rear dérailleur’s clutch spring was very firm in the start, but it wore out quite fast, it became lighter, the shifting became much easier on my thumb, but still too much for my finger in the long run, but the chain slap increased slightly, that’s probably why I noticed the noisy banging noise from the chain catching the second last cog.
Silky smooth Chris King Inset 1
Enough clearance for 2.3 tyres,but it would ben ice with more clearance, for studded 2.3 tyres, but 2.1 studded tyres will fit.
because the original fork was trouble, I bought this fork, the shop installed it, it was a easy fix,but it eventually developed play, probably needs new bushings, but I had to get a fast fix so I bought the Rock Shox Recon gold, which doesn’t have has as good clearance, the Corsa fork has good clearance for both mudguard & 2.3 tyre, which the Rock Shox fork does not have, I also swapped over bars so I ended up with no bars fro this bike I had to get new bar, only thing I found at the time was this Race Face Turbine bar, but later I swapped for 800mm bars from the Trek Ffuel ex I originally bought for, eventually I swapped over the whole cockpit including Renthal Apex stem. The Fuel Ex is going to a bike shop and Trek will look at it,But I plan on new bike build at some point, So I kept this bike going.
The Avid Juicy 3 brakes were ok for a while, but they eventually wore out after few years, the lever was slow to return, the return spring for the lever wore out, which is not surprising, quite normal for springs to wear out, but my local shop could not fix it, the I pressed the lever but the braking power was not there, it was useless, Mabbe the calipers were leaking I don’t know it was years ago, but the master cylinder was well sealed, there were no failed threads or loose bolts, but the lever blade developed play.
So it was later replaced with Shimano M615, which had a better lever feel, but they also failed eventually, so I got M6000 under warranty.
After 7 years of use( 4 regular rest not as often)
I failed under truing with hanger tool, I only did it few times before, But the last time I noticed something that looked like a crack, and it felt too soft, But it eventually got bigger.
because the original fork was trouble, I bought this fork, the shop installed it, it was a easy fix,but it eventually developed play, probably needs new bushings, but I had to get a fast fix so I bought the Rock Shox Recon gold, which doesn’t have has as good clearance, the Corsa fork has good clearance for both mudguard & 2.3 tyre, which the Rock Shox fork does not have, I also swapped over bars so I ended up with no bars fro this bike I had to get new bar, onlky thign I foudn at the time was this Race Face Turbine bar, but later I swapped for 800mm bars from the Trek Ffuel ex I originally bought for, eventually I swapped over the whole cockpit including Renthal Apex stem. The Fuel Ex is going to a bike shop and Trek will look at it,But I plan on new bike build at some point, So I kept this bike going.
The rear end is very easy to throw around, due to the short chain stay and the bike is very easy to initiate/start a wheelie, but with 100mm fork the steering suffers.
the steep head angle & short wheelbase makes the bike harder to do precise riding like skinnies, but it makes the bike easier to initiate a do endo turn, spinning the bike around the fork.
if I let go of the handlebar and roll the bike turn in both directions, I struggle to steer it without holding the bars, it requires some practise to do so, but I can can ride horrible bikes with horrible characteristics and still do most of the things I do with a better bike, but of course I notices the shortcomings of them, including this bike, but a longer travel fork would improve the steering and make the bike more balanced by increasing the wheelbase.
Due to the stiffness of the frame the chain wear is good, the chain wears slowly, unlike with 2014 Trek Fuel EX 7 29, I am quite sure it’s due to the stiffer frame, less twisting and movement, also the hanger does not get bent as fast, it can go for a really long time, several months or maybe longer, I rarely hit RD hangers, so it stays true for a long time, but with the Fuel Ex it bent very often, but I sent it to a shop for trek to look at I hope they sort it out for me.
The frame is stiff enough for me, I am somewhere between 75 & 80g, I don’t have any issues with tyre rub or frame flex, but if you mess up or push really hard while pedalling in a brutal way it’s possible, but if you I don’t do that which I don’t do normally, but I did that just to test what happen, so I am quite satisfied with the performance of this frame.The frame has even flex on both sides,at least very similar.
The welds are also good.
Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm, 20mm offset, I had no issues with the seat post, but the adjust jaw result in less adjusts-ability of the angle.The logo wore out quite fast, and the black paint became discoloured.
very slack seat tube angle, which puts the saddle too far back, even if reversing the seat post, but for a kid or shorter adult it will work, but not for 180cm person like me, if fork was bumped up to 120 it would be a quite nice handling bike.
The Bontrager Rangers wheels, had weak spoke nipples which rounded off when truing the wheels, and when hit by rocks & Shimano m475 hubs was horrible, it had awful engagement, a huge dead zone, which was very noticeable, the freehub lasted about 1 season in the beginning when I was younger, but now as I am a lot heavier they wobble and causes shifting issues due to wobble, and only 3 trips and the axle bent, this was the case on all the the hubs, not only this wheelset.
The Bontrager Ranger wheels were heavy, the main reason is the Shimano
The plastic on the front dérailleur was eventually hitting the frame, which caused paint damage
The triple chainring setup was problematic, no clainguide, and hte hcian dropped on the rougher stuff, like roots, or technical terrain, if you changed gears, a chain guide is a must, but I did not have that at hte time, so this caused chain drop damage on the paint near the bb.
Came with 100mm fork not with 120 as official picture shows.
The cockpit was not good enough, too long stem, too narrow bars, the original bars were Bontrager Lowriser 650mm 9deg bend 31.8mm dia 6061-T6 alum, I did not have any issues with them, they took some crashes, they did not bend.
Bontrager Race saddle was a good fit for me, but it failed fast, screws flew off, and the plastic plate loosened, and the saddle was useless, I don’t remember exactly how fast that happen, some months or maybe a year I don’t remember, but quite fast.
Bontrager Jones XR tyres were fast rolling but they lacked grip for the type of riding I did.
The paint is quite fragile, the paint falling off the was fro ma crowing on gravel many years ago.
The only problems with the frame I had was when installing Chris King headset, the frame did not match Chris King’s precision, So I had to use a hammer to make it go in straight then use the bearing press, It sits flush now, but the head tube is not completely flush at the bottom towards the down tube, there is a small gap just there. The original Cane Creek headset was very easy to remove,it does not sit there as tight, the tolerances are different, with Chris King it’s tight, the Chris King headset was a great upgrade, it’s smooth and even turning all the way.
The original VP-A42E, 1-1/8″ semi-integratedheadset from Cane Creek, I can clearly see there is a gap & the bottom of the head tube is not 100% flush.
Original headset removed.
The head tube after removing the original headset.
The original worn out noisy uneven turning headset, new bearings did not help, it was time to for an upgrade, I could go on of a while but I rather have a reliable solution, So I went With Chris King.
I haven’t tested out every feature, yet, and haven’t done a lot of skin work for sim racing games in a while, but I did it in the past, but I had to install DDS plugin for that, I don’t know much aobut the latest changes, I haven’t had the time to research those. but I had some fun iwth Gimp over the years. here are the skins I made for sim racing games: https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/authors/mtbboy1993.168461/
video below shows me recreating a livery design I did for VW Polo WRC for Assetto Corsa
Raw editing software:
RawTherapee is a great software for raw editing, even if you don’t have raw files, you can do some great improvements to the photos, that you would not be able to do in gimp.
I have tested the lube in very wet days in various times of the year I have also tested it in the winter in harsh conditions it performed quite well, so far this has the lube with highest consistency I have tried, so make sure you wipe off access because this lube creates ”spider webs”.
I put on the Extreme Wet lube in case it would be wet but became quite dry, But I did not change the lube, I continued using it, it was not dry, so I rode with it after the snow was almost gone, I rode long distance on paved bike path with sand on them, the lube attracted a lot of sand.
the drive train was very crunchy, due to sand and gravel sticking to the chain. I was riding many km’s on the pavement with sand on it from the winter.
It works great in harsh winter, I have ridden in -10 Celsius, but it for very dirty conditions.
The long tip makes it easy to lube the rear dérailleur.
After few days of riding in freeze-thaw cycle with some deep long rim and shoe deep puddles getting the drivetrain asked in water slush, Crashing in wet snow, I got the chain quite noisy, so this is far worse conditions for a longer time than the Rock n’ Roll Extreme lube.
So the conclusion is Muc-Off offers a better option, for a lower price.
some wet some dry, some muddy spots, this is the result:
from the city centre to Skansehytta from parking.
In hot summer days when the bike stands indoors overnight, the lube gets thicker/ the consistency changes, and the chain does not run as smoothly, and the drive train will be noisier and it will attract more dust, so you need to lube it after each ride or the the next day before the ride.
This lube suits most conditions, for wet summer days to muddy wet rain autumn days, to winter, riding in slush, -11c dry icy. but won’t keep the drive train completely clean, this lube performed ok for every thing I put it trough. will last logner than the dry lube.
There might be other lubes that perform as well or better, but so far Muc Off & Weldtite has my favorite lubes.
I bought them in 2016, Since February 2017 I added a lot of pictures and improved the review.
I put the 3 wheel sets to more some more abuse, and a lot of hard riding, urban mtb and trail riding, and they survived.
I have put it through harsh riding in all different weather and temperatures.
ca 75kg with all gear on.
Aa the temperature decreases seals shrink, wheels go out of true faster, but this will happen on any wheelset.
So far I have been riding down to -11 Celsius.
I have been riding below freezing temperatures, few weeks, I noticed the sound coming from the rear hub was dampened, and sounded like there was water inside, because there was water inside, the plastic seal shrinks when its so cold, which allows water/melting show to come inside, which happen on a -6 Celsius ride. But it’s not possible to make a tighter fitting seal, so I recommend to put grease between the seal and the hub freehub body, which will give more protection after I have applied grease to the seal, I have not had any more issues with water in the freehub. but don’t make a mess, clean up the access to avoid attracting dirt.
I also put grease in the rim holes and on the spoke nipples, provides prevent corrosion.
After a long time of riding the front hub did not need service.
The wheel stays quite true, but when it it goes off center to the left both on front and rear, but I regurally check the wheels, so the tention is good and I keep them qutie true and centered, I have 3 sets in 29. I bought a set for my 6300 too.
provides a true wheel for longer than 28 like Bontrager duster.
Hope made a noticeably stiffer wheelset than Bontrager duster 29er when going fast in berms or landing jumps, or in general hard riding, it really makes a huge difference
High-quality brass spoke nipples, accurate size, so easy to work with, unlike the nipples on Bontrager Duster wheelset. There is no twisting or bending or crushing or cracking of the nipples when truing the wheel.
It has an almost idiot proof design, it’s very easy to take apart, I love the freehub system, there is no too required to take off the freehub.
10 & 11 speed compatible, hope provides a spacer for 10 to 11 speed cassettes, and the freehub body is wider than a 10 speed freehub boy, so the cassette is further to the right/closer to the frame, which results in a better chain line, for 11 speed,and no chain drop when backpedalling, unless you backpedal using your hands at unrealistic speed/rpm, I have been doing backward 180’s without any issues.
The wheels stayed true for a long time & no damage to the rim was done, after 3 weeks of hard trail riding, and some hard street riding, but after those 3 months it needed a quick retention, but it was a piece of cake.
the freehub is not too loud.
end caps for skewer or 12mm & 15mm axles
very easy to do maintenance/service no springs jumping out or tools needed(not counting the cassette tool)
I managed to get a small dent in 2 spoke nipples, but it did not affect the threads, might have been a big stone that hit them, the dent was only one side so I could get the spoke tool on.
not the highest engagement, there are other options on the market that provide better engagement, Industry Nine, Chris King, and the king of engagement Onyx due to the clutch, it provides infinite engagement, but they all cost a lot more. the engagement is ok, it does not feel awkward like the cheaper Shimano hubs do.
Cassettes with separate cogs Shew up the freehub body, So after some weeks or months, I have to file down the bumps to get the cassette on & off easily.The damage you can see on splines is caused by the cassette pitting into them, If you ignore this for too long you might struggle to get the cassette off, So I used 100 sandpaper to smoother the surface. I want a stronger Freehub body, I haven’t tried Steel Freehub body or XD driver yet. Some other brands claim to have strong enough free hubs to not wear like this, but I haven’t tried any of them. but I used these since 2016 so that’s quite a long time, but they will probably last me few more years.
on my 26er wheel-set: After few short rides Shimano XT 11-46T cassette:
A closer look at the Pro 4 hub:
Springs eventually wear out:
this is to be expected, it’s normal, springs eventually fail.
Shewed up Freehub body:
After 1 meter drop with too low tyre pressure: we all make mistakes
A good thing is that I learn from my mistakes and never do them again.
one of the rear wheels got a small dent, I ridden with studded Suomi WXC 300 tyres, 30 psi was too low in turns because of squirming, but I later added 10 psi.
If can, of course, bends it back.
The sumemr of 2018 I dented the rear wheel on wooden stairs, due to valve stem loosening up:
I fixed the rim in few seconds, there was Loctite on the threads & tightened with pliers, but it still had to be regularly checked I should have done it earlier, that was my fault. I rode up wooden stairs, hit the staircase, and the tyre got a hole near the bead.
which I managed to fix by letting the tyre stay still overnight with 20psi with the hole down.
it sealed up. I had Orange seal, but I filled it up with more as it was spraying after the hit.
Hope offers a wheelset that can take major abuse, for a cost-effective price, But it’s not the ultimate package. the freehub body should be stronger.
If you get this wheelset on sale it’s a good deal.
But I want to try other hubs like Onyx with more engagement for my next bike.
It’s funny to post this now as I am currently engaged. Ha. Anyway…. Bicycle ‘mechanics’ are generally very inexperienced riders. They spends their days in workshops talking trash and theorizing about this and that. 1,067 more words
I’m working with a REVELATION RC A1 (2018+), 150mm. Changing travel to 160mm. Simple enough. I ordered the part: “11.4018.026.034 Air Shaft DebonAir – PIKE B1/Revelation (35MM) (160mm 29/27)” as specified in the SRAM… 236 more words
I think it’s fitting that this is taking the place of my annual NAHBS post. This post is about idiots making decisions, marketing of garbage, and what happens on a ride when something that is supposed to work, doesn’t. 528 more words
I have been through several cassettes and put it through its paces.
Due to the design of the cogs, the transition from each cog is excellent. The chain stays well in place with unrealistic fast backpedalling, where the sun race cassettes would drop the chain, my bike has hope pro 4hub, Absolute Black 34t.oval chainring, this but the chain at an optimal angle for the biggest cog, so this clearly shows the sun race cassette performs worse with backpedalling. As mentioned in many other reviews, the jump to the 46t cog is too big, it messes up your cadence, but I got used to it.
The XT cassette has quite stiff cogs when the chainstay wore out on my 2014 fuel ex the extra side to side movement combined with bearing misalignment caused the cogs to bend, but this will not be an issue on a bike that does not have an extreme side to side movement or bearing misalignment issues. So, in conclusion, the cassette performed well.
The pack got a lot of room for everything you really need for a ride plus more, if you want to use it for grocery shopping you can, I can fit 2 cola bottles or 2 1,5 milk cartons,3 1 L cartons
upper pocket got 2 Compartments with an elastic band which is perfect for a wallet and a helmet light battery charger, I sue one for Gemini Xera light battery charger and the other one for my wallet. And it’s perfect a smartphone & Go Pro mounts, small chargers.
the top pocket got keyholder
soft material inside the pocket so you don’t scratch your camera lens smartphone, I can fit a Sony experia XZ Premium smartphone in the pocket but any bigger phone won’t fit, but I prefer to have it in short pocket instead.
back protector comes at 145 grams with feels like nothing
side pockets with elastic band, which is great if you forgot to fill up the Hydrapak and just wants to buy a bottle of juice or soda or to keep shopping bags i
no matter how aggressive riding I did, jumping, riding in stairs, the zippers staid in place
Side waist pocket, which is perfect for rubber gloves or a small snack
the plastic zipper extension failed.
The Velcro got work out, it was not gripping.
The belt keeps the backpack from bouncing. The Velcro got worn out worn after about 2 years of use, so it did not stay in place by itself, but with buckle strap, it stays in place still after 3 years. But if you need new Velcro straps you can buy new and sew them on, so that’s not really an issue. The buckle & the other plastic parts still work great.
27 march 2018 it snapped, which is not surprising at all. But not too bad.
eventually the other snapped few months later.
I fixed it with a zip ties.
It has a strap for mounting rear light.
The helmet holder is also nice for securing toilet paper or anything similar when you are grocery shopping.
March 21, 2019 the zipper failed during a ride.
the logos will start to peel off after one season of use.
The straps are fatiguing shoulder & neck area with heavier loads.
if you use the helmet holder for an xc or trail helmet, make sure you get the front down and all the way in otherwise it will be too loose
you have to have the zippers on the side or it will take in water because of the gap in the 2 step zipper
to get most comfortable fit, loosen all straps, let the back pack sag down, until it bottom outs, it will bottom out somewhere with the stomach belt under the navel, then tighten the bottom straps where you feel right, and then the chest strap, it’s not perfect comfort at all times, but it will result in the most comfortable fit possible with this back pack.
After about 3 years of use, it’s still going strong. I am Sure I will be able to use it for many more years.
better ergonomics than Spyke lever, it got a rounder profile, not as great as Shimano’s shape.
Excellent barrel adjuster, it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.
Lighter than the ML800 Spyke levers
Hinged mount for easy removal
Rech adjustment so these levers will work well for a kids bike.
I have these levers on both of my fuel ex 29ers, and they the levers on both survived crashes, on one it survived over the bar crash, where the bike landed parked upsidedownThe brake on the other bike like it survived a fall about 1 meter from a concrete wall.
Flex in the lever body when braking hard, Which also is present in the Spyke levers.
I could never get the reach adjustment bolt to fit securely for long, after some days the bolt would come loose, although I used Loctite 243 I think this is due to the flex in the lever body when braking hard, So I had to add Loctite often.
When the levers were new they were a significant amount of up & down play in the lever, which also is present in the Spyke levers, which increased over time. The metal bushings had some wear too, on the top and on the inside, which also contributed to the increased play, but there was significant play from the beginning, due to the bad tolerances, there was a small gap between the bushings and the lever body. The video below shows lever play after 5 months of use, but it was pretty much the same from the beginning.If you ride hard and the brake lever is pressed slightly at an angle due to the play it feels rough. All could easily be avoided if TRP had made it to a tighter tolerance, and used bearings or bushings, for the lever puller.But I have not found another mechanical brake lever that has these features.
the use of rivet for wire puller was a bad choice, it causes fast wear, and more play, than when they were new, and it already had a lot of play, In my opinion, bearings or bushings would be a better solution. after some weeks of use the lever made some noises, due to the wear, I had to lube the moving parts, it kept getting worse, I continued to lube it regularly.
A closer look at the components the Lever is put together with:
Weight vs more reliable reach adjustment.
I can’t call the M930 an upgrade or better than the Spyke levers, the Spyke levers have the reach adjustment on the inside of the lever blade so the flex in the lever body won’t affect the adjustment, it’s also easier to reach, and adjust with a allen key.
I knew this could could be an issue on M930 levers , but I later found the Spyke levers, on chainreactioncycles.
this is not a perfect mechanical brake lever, neither is the Spyke, but due to the more reliable reach adjustment, I will use the Spyke lever instead.
But it’s not perfect, it has flaws, the rivets in the lever pullers for example.
A mix of these two levers, with the best elements, plus bearing would make a pretty good lever, but nothing like that exist yet to my knowledge.