I changed the whole clutch assembly, not only the axle, I noticed the original spring lost the stiffness, the new one was a lot stiffer.
2014 Trek fuel ex 7 damaged the RD:
The axle failed & the chain got bent, So first I tried warranty, but that did not work, but later, I became quite sure it was my frame that caused it. The Rd still had some life in it, So I ordered spares from SJS Cycles, but Shimano Norway would not warranty it as there was another damage, which actually is just cosmetic damage.
I am quite sure now the reason cage axle failed, was due to major flex in the 2014 Fuel ex 7 frame under pedalling load.
no use of bushings, causing shorter lifetime, which is a compromise.
not well optimized for wide range cassettes, So the use of goat link or similar is necessary, but if doing so, it performs very well.
plastic jockey wheels which wear a lot faster than metal
THe clutch lever is plastic and is flimsy, it bends.
good shifting performance, if the clutch is well adjusted, by having a hard clutch you get harder lever action, so optimising it for you is important, I can’t have it super hard, the shifting performance is good with the Xt m8000 cassette, but also with the Sunrace cassette, but the Sunrace cassette, has backpåedallign issues So I can’t recommend it.
Apart from paly do to lack of bushings, it performed well, without any major issues.
Going from Xt m8000 with uncut 116 link Kmc x11 Sl silver chain, I had to add 5 links, due to the bigger tension pulley.
The flaw that can’t be ignored.
There is definitely potential, Box has some great ideas, for example, use of bushings, but there some flaw that can’t be ignored.
Because the clutch(CamClutch) is not as strong in the higher hears as in the lower gears, it improves shifting greatly, over clutch systems like on Shimano m8000 or previous Shimano models,The shifting is so smooth that I can’t feel it, so going from Xt M8000 to Box one you might think the rear dérailleur is not shifting properly but if you take a look it actually did shift( I use a Xt M8000 11-46T Cassette with Both Rear dérailleur’s) I used This also makes the lever action lighter.
You can fully take it apart, as the swing arms have E clips, so removing them is easy with a screwdriver, So far Box does not offer every single part as a replacement.
I have already had the chance to smash it, on this technical section this was the result :
So far I am pretty impressed with it, But I prefer Shimano trigger shifter, So I use the XTR m9000, good combo. The shifting is very smooth, it’s actually smoother than Shimano XT M8000, because of the cam clutch, it gets stiffer as the lower gear you use, but this makes the high gear as there is no clutch at all, so this means smooth shifting, but this won’t be an issue unless you ride like a madman within the top gear, so any issues are unlikely, But I read reviews saying they dropped the chain, but some of them did not use chain guides, and some of them probably rode like madmen. like
So far I am pretty impressed with it, But I prefer Shimano trigger shifter, So I use the XTR m9000, good combo. The shifting is very smooth, it’s actually smoother than Shimano XT M8000, because of the cam clutch, it gets stiffer as the lower gear you use, but this makes the high gear as there is no clutch at all, so this means smooth shifting, but this won’t be an issue unless you ride like a madman within the top gear, so any issues are unlikely, But I read reviews saying they dropped the chain, but some of them did not use chain guides, and some of them probably rode like madmen. like back-pedalling downhill in max gear, which no one normally does, or even on the flat you will feel the chain slap. I rode pretty hard and fast in technical sections and I never had any issues.
But I also use A MRP AMg V2 chain guide, which is a must for trail/enduro riding, If you ride hard with even with a NarrowWide chainring you will eventually drop the chain, especially n a full suspension bike, So if you drop the chain it’s not the rear derailleur’s fault but your own.
Fitted on the bike with Uncut KMC 11x Sl silver chain:
At first glance, I thought I had to adjust the B screw, But a few seconds later noticed that the screw has chewed off the edge of the hanger. Since then, I fully unscrewed it I discovered the threads were ruined, But then I discovered the B screw was switching between light and hard to turn as I unscrewed it, this was caused by the threads in hte body being completely destroyed. So I put Xt M8000 on the bike.
Dislocating cam clutch spring, the spring wears out and becomes too big, and creeps out on both sides of the O ring until most of it pops out.
BOX one has great potential, but the current rear derailleur should not have been released to the public, as the product has major flaws.
So I can’t recommend Box one Rd at this stage, I really hope they will fix this issue, by offering a free rear body upgrade, which would be easy to do, & easy for the more custom to install, as the Box ONE Rd can be fully disassembled, with only a screwdriver & Allen keys.I recommend keeping up to date with Box is doing, as maybe they will make the perfect Rd in the future.
This rear derailleur has been on some long rides, and got some abuse.
I have ridden this rear derailleur since 2015, some weeks in 2016 & the whole 2016/2017 winter plus one winter, and some weeks and days in the summer of 2017.
I ride a lot, I ride at least 5 days in a week, from 1 hour few hours, depending on how I ride up to 20 plus km, sometimes less, but my point is I ride a lot
I have mostly used this rear derailleur with 1x setup.
Sometimes I am unlucky and crash or mess up on a technical climb, and this is why the rear derailleur got some scratches, It had some scratches before the crash, for smaller impacts, but the last crash really shows damage, but it’s only cosmetic damage, so my conclusion is that this is a robust rear derailer able to take a lot of abuse, but the pins and swing arms are not replaceable, So when has play you have to get a new rear derailleur.
I crashed off a 1 m concrete wall, the cage was grinding against the wall, I had shifting issues, First I thought they might be the result of the crash, But later I found it not to be the case.
I Did an inspection on the rear dérailleur, I checked all the adjustment screws I took off the cage and did a service, the cage was bent, So I straightened it, but the shifting issues were still present. So I checked them, but then I checked for play, the rear dérailleur had huge play, so it was definitely the play. causing issues.
but I straightened it, but after few days of riding, I noticed shifting issues, So I checked the all the adjustment screws, but then I checked for play, the rear dérailleur had huge play, so it was definitely the play. causing issues.
after riding few weeks with, there was just too much play to do up-shifts, the play caused the Rd to hesitate on shifts.
SLX M675 comes with bad jockey wheels, but you can upgrade to proper jockey wheels, the problem with the stock jockey wheels is that the that the jockey wheel and the metal ring grind against with other and cause damage to the jockey wheel which causes it to not spin smoothly.
Even upgrading to XT jockey wheels which work better, they are not that great, Hope has better spacers, they are Labyrinth style spacers, so the bearings are more protected against contaminants.
I recommend upgrading to Hope jockey wheels or similar, with proper bearings & proper cover.