I have ridden the Suomi Tyres WXC 300 tyres for few weeks, you have to run higher pressures than summer tyres, I had to pump them up 10 psi more, I am about 75kg with all my gear on, and I usually I run 25 psi front 30 rear,but I had to run 40 rear 35 front with the Suomi Tyres WXC 300 tyres. at a lower pressure, it will squirm. If you run low pressures with Hakka tyres you will dent the rims, eventually, I haven’t Tried other winter tyres that Suomi yet.
I noticed the tyres don’t stink as the Suomi 294 extreme I got for my 26er.
First I tried adding just 5 psi but it did not help much, so I had to add 10psi.
With Maxxis High Roller 2 2.30 I run 3 rear and 25 Front.
I lost 6 studs on the rear tyre, but I am sure I rode too hard in the break in period.
Rear Tyre shredded January 14th, 2017:
after jumping off concrete walls, riding up straits, I did not notice any significant wear, but I have not done it many times, but I did it at least 50 times, didlongBut it was not Until did long-distance mountain biking.with roots ice, rocky hills.
The tyre is quite soft, which I think Is the reason for the knobs shredding apart & losing studs, Specially when braking and cornering, or going over alto of obstacles.
I have ridden every single week, almost every day.
After riding on an icy, snow-covered dirt road, I noticed the rear slipping and the rear acting weird, almost like n untrue wheel, but it was the shredded side knobs that were the reason.but January the 14th I lot many studs, and the many of the side knobs were shredded.
I rode about 24km for 3 days in conditions like in the video with about the same terrain, after that The picture above says it all, I have ridden some different trails with that were not as rough, but I think the change in terrain might have something to do with the tyres shredding apart, a lot of roots a lot of more faster corners, resulting in shredded tyre.
Before all that I had been riding for almost every day, at least 1-3 hours(But lately I have been timing how long I ride.
But its was only the rear tyre that got shredded knobs, but the front still lost at least 10-20 studs, but the rear lost 20-40, and the rear end washed out too many times to continue riding like this. On frozen snow, I won’t slip, but on ice I will spin.
You have to run high pressures to avoid hitting the rim, the compound is too weak.
THe Tpi is is higher than my summer tyre which is Maxxis high roller 2 60 Tpi, at 65 Tpi,.
I think the need for higher pressures might be caused by the low volume of the tyre.
But this footage is not from the day the rear tyres got shredded, but I think it was already in progress of being shredded.
a few days later I bought Suomi Gazza Extreme 294, the local shop had some in stock so I had to buy one, shame other shops did not have it in stock at the time I got WXC 300, but at least I can write this review and tell you about my experience.
Did I miss one? feel free to suggest more channels.
and of course you should follow all the bike and components channels
Technical stuff and list of standards, and differences between standards, and info about tools …….:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com Is you wonder about standards, or have seen something weird on an old bike you want to know about, or find the right tool for the job, or want to know more about bikes in general check this site out.
Post originally posted Dec 16, 2015& Updated 12.01.2017
POC is well known for their protection product.
I have several POC products now and I recommend checking them out.
This glove is my favorite glove so far.
they cost the same as the giro remedy X gloves and are way better when it comes to comfort & Poc offers protection padding but Giro does not.
because these gloves were actually bit too big(size large) I changed to 2016 Resistance strong gloves(size medium),the palm on some of the gloves worn out, I think this is caused by the material used & the venting holes in them, so far the Index Dh has been holding up OK,but I guess over long period of time they will eventually wear too.
You should Always Check if everything is correct when getting the back from a shop, I never trusted the local shops.
Big mistakes The local bike shop did:
wrong bolt length, way too short bolt, but I had bolted from Bontrager SSR Seatpost fro my trek fuel ex, that fit perfectly, So I just swapped them, they Did the same mistake on one more bike.
Wrong BB 68mm in 73mm bb shell & no Locktite on the threads so the BB came loose
Crushed headset bearings, which is probably bike shop’s fault.
leaning my bike against a empty carton box,& almost do a domino off all the bikes in the shop, But I grabbed the first falling bike & saved the day.
But when I lost the Linkage bolt on my fuel ex they got the part fast, and did the job fast.
but the problem is with local shops is that they only make money on repair, But I no longer go to a shop for any repairs.
I had to educate them on prices, googles for example, they did not know the price of the Adidas Pinner goggle, so they had to call a other store for price, but they looked at the wrong goggle
What many local shop did wrong:
no demo bikes to try before buying.
not stocking some of the most common parts to wear pout.
Giving good deals & Free wheel truing, and kind and telling the truth, but if the shop did this to more customer than me No wonder the local bike shop went bankrupt, but they probably did not do that, because I was the only customer they remembered the name of.
lack of knowledge about both the old school, modern bikes, both road and mtb.
Lack of the tool, every shop MUST HAVE, I have seen this in Sport stores too.
not doing every thing
Long wait time.
Too many bikes to repair, too few people to do the job.
Bikes not assembled correctly.
too many bikes too closely together, with horrible and unstable stands, so there is a big chance of Domino effect.
lack of proper web presence
Not using torque wrench
I have heard a guy complaining about, one of the mechanics using 2 different kinds of grease,& making a mess.
Many bike shops will try to make money of your stupidity or lack of knowledge:
Many bike shops will not tell you the whole truth, because they want you to come back for more repairs,because you ridden with loose spokes, or too low pressure or what ever and tacoed the wheels, broken some parts, That has never happen to me, but I know that’s how it is.
Lack of website
if you are a beginner they want to sell a garbage bike to you,those so called beginner or budget bikes, with sr Suntour forks, and outdated drive trains,with way too many gears, bad ergonomics or shifters, horrible grips, tyres,saddle, QR release hub,for example Shimano m475 hubs,which got horrible seals.
the things that the local shop did right:
offering custom build bikes to your wish.
Some things that are wrong with the bike industry:
some brands do too little advertising & instructional videos, and product overviews, videos, so all the info you get is only on their site, which sometimes is not great.
But so far I like how Poc got all the info you need on their site, but I still think they should do videos, videos are an easy way to share stuff.
some brands are not good at making a budget or mid-range bike:
making budget bikes with some high-end medium range, to some of the most low-end outdated parts mixed altogether all over the place.
my 2014 trek fuel ex 7 29er,triple rings, fox fork which is a not bad, but horrible flexible wheels that went out of true after few days, tyres that wore out after 4 weeks,cranks that failed,as soon as I put on new Turbine cinch cranks and new hope pro 4 enduro wheelset the bike became a whole new beast.
Don’t let marketing fool you and steer you towards something you will regret.
Pointless selling points, which Trek, for example, is doing a lot.
Some brands are good at marketing stuff for people who does not know anything, and make it sound like its the best thing in the world, I only care about facts, and how it performs in real life. Trek is a perfect example of this.the trek 2014 fuel ex 7 29er was not as amazing as trek made it to be, wheels were junk, crank arms failed, tyres worn out in 4 weeks, too many gears for a trail bike….
but if rode well, good handling, great stable steering, great fit, but frame was too flexy for me with 75kg with all gear on.
But there are those that don’t even try to make a proper video, or convince you to buy it, which is partly a good thing, but if they don’t people won’t discover them as easily.
if you want to make a ad or introduction video give is the facts wee need and explain why this bike might be for us,so it can give us a ide if we want it or not, but reading customer reviews & demoing/trying the bike out is the best for the customers to get a good bike
This is why Demoing a bike is important, but at the time I needed a full suspension bike fast.
the shop in the video is TRAILFLO bikes I, I think their business method is good, they let you go on rides with them, instead of paying for a demo bike,and they build the bike for you how you want it to, when you decided on the right bike, I think more shops should do this.
Treating us like idiots in ads, making a simple commuter bike sound like it’s an amazing piece of engineering with new technology when it’s actually basic technology that is decades old, and who cares about grips, we buy the grips we want anyway the same goes for saddles.
We Have to help them: us the customer should write reviews and share the flaws products
Most of the mountain bike gloves don’t last long,but if you can sew you can of course fix them if you have materials & sewing kit.
for me Poc resistance strong gloves are the best glove so far, but the palm wear out too fast,So I contacted them about this, writing a review and not sharing won’t help them,So please if you like a product but its not perfect, contact who makes it and help them make it better.
Reviews. reviews that don’t help us:
If you write a review you have to have tested it properly for a long period, not just a few hours.
The good stuff:
the last 2 years I have seen a big increase in free mountain bike instructional/technique videos
I am self-taught and have mastered most skills, apart from the extreme dirt jump tricks, which I will never do, but some people don’t learn as fast by just trying it them selves, some people need guidance, and see how it should be done to do it.
a few years ago, there just a few videos and all the good stuff was paid only, more accessible videos will keep beginners riding better faster.
The increase in User reviews, demo of bikes on Youtube.
This video is an excellent example of an excellent bike review video.
but still not many doing this, I have not had the chance to try any demo bikes yet, but I tried my best to do a proper review of my bikes, which is more in depth than any other magazine has done(that I know of)
for me, it was easiest to take pictures and some videos of my bike, and write when something needed to be written, and I continued this, and even though the review was not finished I posted it and updated it over and over again until it became a very in depth review.
More of you should do the same, but with the top notch bikes there is not much negative to say, but on the budget bikes, there is can be much wrong or it can be a good deal, so proper reviews are important, but I strongly recommend building a custom bike,its a lot cheaper.
Too hard to get some components or some bike gear, & clothing:
for example Poc:
I had to buy some pair of gloves from fjellsport.no, some from sykkelkompoinenter.no some I had to buy chamois boxers from iterreng.no some from amazon.com some from fjellsport.no
the poc stuff sell fast, and not many stores got it.
There are many thigns I have to order from outside Norway, for exmple shimano parts are impossible to get without waiting for the shop to order it fro mimporter which gets it to nroway so the whole process will take few weeks.
but I jsut order from bikecomponents.de or amazon.
I use size L for Alpine Stars jerseys, with Fox I use XL, Mavic Size L, Swix base layer I use Medium
No itching labels or stitching
good fit works well with protectors underneath, the sleeves are long enough, good size of collar, the jersey stay in place how it should no sliding or twisting of the sleeves or any other part of the jersey
the collar is not too open,so it works well , it keeps the buff in place,I wear a Swix Race X base layer underneath & a buff/neck warmer(s), for those colder times where you don’t have to wear a jacket to stay warm, as the neck is one of the places I get cold fast, this is a big plus for me.
the pockets do not interfere with my Evoc backpack, the pockets are perfectly placed.
the pockets are so big you can have lunch or some energy bars in them, or 2 buffs or 2 sets of gloves.
easy to take things out or put in the pockets,because of the Velcro straps,which makes a secure pocket to keep stuff in,but I would not keep small or tiny stuff in it because they could come out, on rough rides, because the Velcro straps are only in the middle and not on the whole length.
the stitched part of the pocket rolls down on the Velcro strap some times, but this is not a big deal, there is more than enough Velcro to keep the pocket secure.
After 1 meter drop with too low tyre pressure: we all make mistakes
Good thing is that I learn from my mistakes and never do them again.
one of the rear wheels,got a small dent,I ridden with studded Suomi WXC 300 tyres, 30 psi was too low in turns because of squirming,but I later added 10 psi.
If can, of course, bend it back.
AS the temperature decreases seals shrink, wheels go out of true faster, but this will happen on any wheel set.
So far I have been riding down to -11 Celsius.
I have been riding below freezing temperatures, few weeks, I noticed the sound coming from the rear hub was dampened, and sounded like there was water inside, because there was water inside, the plastic seal shrinks when its so cold, which allows water/melting show to come inside, which happen on a -6 Celsius ride.but if you it’s not possible to make a tighter fitting seal, so I recommend to put grease between the seal and the hub freehub body, which will give more protection after I have applied grease to the seal, I have not ad any more issues with water in the freehub.
I also put grease in the rim holes and on the spoke nipples, providesTo prevent corrosion.
33providea true wheel for longer than 28 like Bontrager duster.
Hope made a noticeably stiffer wheelset than Bontrager duster 29er when going fast in berms or landing jumps, or in general hard riding, it really makes a huge difference
High quality brass spoke nipples, accurate size,s o easy to work with, unlike the nipples on Bontrager Duster wheel set. There is no twisting or bending or crushing or cracking of the nipples when truing the wheel.
The hub is one of the best hubs on the market, it’s got idiot proof design, it’s very easy to take apart, I love the freehub system, there is no too required to take off the freehub.
10 & 11 speed compatible, hope provides a spacer for 10 to 11 speed cassettes, and the freehub body is wider than a 10 speed freehub boy, so the cassette is further to the right/closer to the frame, which result in a better chain line, for 11 speed,and no chain drop when backpedalling, unless you backpedal using your hands at unrealistic speed/rpm, I have been doing backward 180’s without any issues.
The wheels stayed true for a long time & no damage to the rim was done, after 3 weeks of hard trail riding, and some hard street riding, but after those 3 months it needed a quick retention, but it was a piece of cake.
the freehub is not too loud.
end caps for skewer or 12mm & 15mm axles
very easy to do maintenance/service no springs jumping out or tools needed(not counting the cassette tool)
Sealed cartridge bearings
I managed to get a small dent in 2 spoke nipples, but it did not effect the threads, might have been a big stone that hit them, the dent was only one one side so I could get the spoke tool on.
I Recommend this wheelset, if you want wheelset that works and is easy to work on, then this is a good choice.
I have put it trough harsh riding in all different weather and temperatures.
I rode with this light at max brightness a lot, and I think 2 hours on max is way too low for me, I have to charge it when I come back or have more batteries with me, If I want to continue to ride in the dark, but I try to ride as much as I can when in daytime,when it’s bright,but this means riding from 09-16, if need to work on my bike or go to the store, or do other important tasks, I just have to ride in the dark, So a good light is important, so far this light is OK. I of course switch to the weakest mode, when I don’t have to have as bright light, but if you want to ride in complete darkness, for a long time this light is not for you.950 Lumens is quite OK, but I want something brighter with wider and longer reach, but I just bought whatIcould when I could as fast as I could, so the local sports store it was, I t was not cheap.
For me the weakest mode does not blind me, but when riding in the city,o r where cars drive, or near people, keep the light pointing slightly down,b ut, Even so, I have had complaints from people so far way I could not even see them, said the light was way too bright and they were blinded, this was surprising, but some other people I don’t react to it and think it’s fine.
after 2 season the battery died.
the light on the button changes colour from green to yellow to red, when the battery is low
can be used as a headlight
Secure rubber ring mounting, no issues with slipping.
can be mounted to most XC and road helmets
replacement glass provided.
Velcro straps work well.
comes in a nice box, to store the light in.
i had no issues with fogging glass the light not working in wet conditions, it worked well no matter the weather, I have been riding in -10 Celsius, or summer-Autumn rainy days, I had no issues what so ever.
short battery time on max brightness, with the stock 2 cell battery, I ordered 4 cell battery pack.
the provided strap is too long for many of mountainside top tube,s which makes the battery slide.
The cable plugs disconnects while riding in in green& blue trails, rock gardens will unplug it for sure, this happens no matter if i mount it to the top tube or on the stem spacers.
Gets as hot as a heating radiator, even when riding in below -10 Celsius, but new version , got a different cooling fin design, but I have never tried it out.
would be nice with a 3m adhesive mount or go pro adaptor for mounting to a full face helmet