Short term review: Nicolai/Geometron G1 Large

Product pages:

The 18 min video below explains the features and benefits.

I won’t explain all the benefits and why I went for this bike, but the video below says it all.

Nicolai/Geometron G1 at Guderudgata, Askim

Handling and steering.

Nicolai/Geometron G1 at Guderudgata, Askim

Great turning, more direct steering but stable.

The chainstay is 455 which is the about what the Fuel Ex has, I liked the long chain stays, I like it here too, its agile enough, not and issue, it actually fits this size, the long front end and the weight means I have to get more to the front to lift the front up but I like that, this keeps the bike mot planted anyway.

I tried wheelies the first ride, it was not problem just had to lean more forward to initiate the wheelie, but once it lifted it was easy to control, and balance one got it at nice height I could even get it further in a steeper angle, it was easy to keep it there or to adjust the position it was much more stable than on the 2014 fuel ex. I got used to it on day one, but I was already had mastered wheelies, I had years of experience.

The Bike is stiff, great symmetric chainstay design the bike is stiff, I can’t get the tyre to flex into the chainstay, or get the chainstay to hit the tyre, the frame does not sway side to side like the Fuel Ex did.

The drivetrain performed as it should no change from first meters to after several hours of riding, hanger was straight, smooth shifts. Problem free how it should be, but then again frame does not sway/flex too much.

The only time I managed to get the hanger out of true was when I had a had to bail once when doing side hops down a stair case, bike went to the ground rear derailleur got hit, so I checked the hanger, I did tiny adjustment, which took few seconds. So I won’t have any issues with bending hanger like I did on my previous bike.

I of course ride with a spare hanger/dropout in my bike pack.

The Bike climbed well, cornered great, climbed up steep trails well.

Wonderful no matter what I do,
climbs steep to climbs, and turn at steep climbs,it climbs well, stable steering, far from wobbly,

The bike is planted, I don’t have to lean forward as much, and give such an effort and movements to stay in balance on steep climbs with sharp turns, and don’t have to pivot as much to have grip on medium steep technical climbs

The slack steering angle of about 62 degrees (this is how my bike is set up with 170 mm Fox 36 44 offset and Chris King Inset2 headset)and long reach of 515mm, wheelbase, and long chainstay, steep seat tube, ensures good sitting position, well balanced bike, like handles everything you want, very stable, and glued to the ground, but with a little bit of getting used to being able to get it off the ground, don’t let yourself be fooled by to little time on such a bike.

I don’t mind the weight, it’s 17.80 kg with High Roller 2 2.30
18.70 kg with lights, Schwalbe Ice Spiker Lite skin 2.25, as it outweighs the benefits, the frame frame is stiff enough, tougher than my previous, has the right reach for me, I have coil front & back which eliminates having to adjust air pressure, it is more consistent.

After some days on the bike I eventually managed to do everything I did on the previous bike. Don’t let one test ride fool you into thinking a modern enduro bike

EXT Storia LOk V3

The frame set included the EXT Storia LOK V3 coil shock. I have mine setup with 400 pund spring.

Links to reviews of the shock:





Gee Milner made a nice video showing the tuning process.

EXT Storia LOK V3 on Geometron G1

The shock has Low & high speed compression, rebound damping, Hydraulic Bottom-out Control, you can read more about it on the the product page.

EXT Storia LOk V3
EXT Storia LOk V3

Somehow EXT managed to make a climb switch that has a very light feel to it, easy to move, but yet it so far it does not shift to locked position with rough riding.

EXT Storia V3
EXT Storia LOK V3
The chainstay

Non-boost 32T chainring 73mm Chris King Thread Fit 30 BB, 175mm Race Face Atlas crank set.

The location of the chainstay pivot might make you conserved about not being able to access it, I can’t access it with tools I have, at least not with non-boost chainring, but I have done a lot of hard trail riding, and it not get lose so far.
but the other bots are easily accessible, I haven’t had issues with those either.
but first rides I noticed the bolt on left side of the Mutator got bit loose, but I applied Loctite 243 and tightened it and it did not happen again, I am not sure why it happen. If I discover more about this will update you on this. but things like this happen, maybe I just pushed the bike so hard that bolt got bit loose, it was by no means dangerously loose, just enough for me to turn it with a hex key, but it only happen once.

Great cable routing.

it might be the best cable routing on the market.

Where the Gear cable/hhousign would go.
Where the Gear cable/housing would go.
this is just cable for dropper post I routed from the start, just put it where the gear cable would go, but I won’t have a cable going there cus I will use Archer D1X trail.

Component choices for Mk1 build:

Bike Yoke Divine 185 mm dropper post:

BikeYoke Divine 185mm

I the time of writing this post, I did not have a review of this dropper post, so here is what I can say so far.

The dropper stays pretty clean.

I have installed the wire in reverse with wire head at the post.

I had had issue with the bolts loosening in the winter after 3 rides, I think it’s rapid temp changes, maybe material contributed to it, but I think temp changes might be a contributor, I don’t want that again so that’s why I did this, but other than this I have no complaints and recommend this dropper post, and it seems to be easy to service and reduce travel, maybe a barrel that only takes the wire though it with head of wire. I think I understand why there is a barrel there, so I understand That I did is not optimal, but I just can’t risk potential issues I experienced.

But Bikeyoke strictly advice against it in a comment on a review from vital mtb on YouTube

BikeYoke dropper post remote

The remote was too slippery I had to add grip tape.

Rebar & G1

TRP Spyke calipers

Hope Floating 203mm rotor TRP Spyke

which are great but the barrel adjuster is fragile & Spyke ML800 brake levers, I knew it would work quite well, but they are not perfect. I am done with leaking Shimano brakes, so far it’s the most reliable option I have tried. But at the time of building this bike I did not try any high end less common brake options.

TRP Spyke on Geometron G1
TRP Spyke
G1 Brake mount, wheel axle, pivot
Hope Floating 203mm TRP Spyke
Hope Floating 203mm…
TRP Spyke:
Vorsprung Smashpot Fork Coil Conversion:……
Cockpit & light

I went for Chris King headset, becuase I wanted high precision headset.

Chris King InSet2

The installation went smoothly as you can see in the video below, I wanted to had to get the bike built up fast, so no I did not make build video.

Waiting for Headset.
Waiting for headset.
Nicolai Geometron G1 head tube
Nicolai Geometron G1 head tube
Nicolai Geometron G1 head tube
Brake mounted and centred
Brake mounted and centred
180mm rotor
Hope Tech Boost conversion kit
2 rotor spacers used
No driveside spacer.
Hope Floating 203mm rotor TRP Spyke brake caliper

Chris King ThreadFit 30 BB


I already had a Chris King Threadfit 30 BB, cus I knew which bike I wanted I already bought it long before I got to do the rest, which I installed, it went smoothly.

Race Face Atlas Cane Creek preloader Chris King BB
7354 Nicolai/Geometron G1

The Fork:

Fox 36 Factory GRIP2 170mm with Vorsprung Smashpot Coil conversion

Fox 36 GRIP2 Factory Vorsprung Smashpot

I got a fork offered to me from Ole from Oslo Sykkelcompagniet AS, So I went for it, correct spring was ordered, I am 68kg with all gear on, which worked out nicely. Also frame was imported via Oslo Sykkelcompagniet, and I got both frame & fork, spare stanchion with air spring, so all was in one box easy fast, fork was on a Geometron frame before, so it did not need to be cut, everything was ready to go, only had to wait for the headset I ordered from Merlin cycles, I went for black, I think it suits the rest of the build.

Continuing with the trusted Stem choice, Renthal Apex

Renthal Apex 35Ø 33mm

Because I was satisfied with the performance, security of the Renthal Apex 35 stem I went for it but in 33mm length, I found one for a nice price second hand, so I went for it.

Renthal Apex Ø35 33mm
Pump track Askim Idrettspark


Box One X-Wide & Archer D1X Trail on G1
Mutator & drivetrain

11-50T sun race, Sun Race cassette is a cheaper option. It was the cheapest, fastest, easiest option for me at the time, but I might try other options later.

BOX One X-Wide:

Box One X-Wide on Nicolai/Geometron G1

The bushings can be replaced, by taking the Rd apart, so in theory you could run it for decades, if you replaced the bushings.

I ran out of Zipties.
I built the bike up I had this rotor on temporarily.

32T Absolutte Black Oval:

Testing Abus Bordo holder(included with the lock) & Abus Bordo Alarm 6000A on my G1

For me the oval chainring makes a huge difference on my knees, I can last much longer, and don’t get unbearable pain as fast, So I can ride much longer, much more demanding stuff for longer, and my knees don’t get tire out before everything else. 32T gives me enough both on low and high gear.


Absolute Black chain guide, and got a second hand unused 32T chainring, non boost, which worked well with Hope Pro 4 hubs which I converted to boost with the Hope Tech boost kit, I used two rotor spacers, and did not use a spacer on the driveside.

Atlas cranks

Race Face Atlas Cane Creek preloader Chris King BB
Race Face Atlas Cane Creek preloader Chris King BB
Not a bad idea to have beefy cranks, like this when riding how I do, it will be scraped up.

Archer D1X Trail electronic shifting system:

Eliminates thumb fatigue & pain, that needle thumb tip feeling, no extreme movements, just simple buttons to push. and it allows me to shift without getting pain, when my thumb gets joint misalignment, which can hurt if I shift and it happens during actuating the shifter lever, especially with clutch, but with archer it’s not an issue, its buttons with very light action.

all of this meant I had to add 7 links to the chain, so I will need a 122 link chain, cus I had to get it to be 121 link and 2 of the links were of course missing links/quick links. 121 link chain does not exit, but 122 link chain exist, so that’s what I will get, that extra one link won’t matter much performance wise, So I won’t have to cut the chain or make chain longer if I get 122 link chain.

Pedaling Innovation Catalyst pedals

scraped Pedaling Innovation Catalyst pedal

there is no other choice for pedals for me, the big platform supporting the arch, there is no other pedal that would fit me and do this. There are several reviews on YouTube, and I have a review of them here, I linked few of the reviews on YouTube in my review.

Bike Yoke Squeezy seat post clamp

I wanted to try something different than the Hope clamp, and feedback I got on this seat post clamp was good & I could easily get one, so I did. it’s very minimalistic, no unnecessary material at the top. the Fit was excellent.

Bike Yoke Squeezy seat post clamp

Bike build in progress.
all separate big parts have a number.
Nicolai Geometron G1

Mudhugger Front & rear.

Mudhugger FR & Maxxis Shorty 2.30

For me mudguards are a must, but I am not afraid of getting little bit dirt.

Mudhugger Rear Geometron G1
Mudhugger Rear Geometron G1
The Gorilla tape is there to keep it more secure and protect the frame.

But the rear guard protects against spray from te rear tyre, it greatly reduces the dirt at the dropper post, thus putting less wear, and protecting it from scrapes from rocks, that the tyre could shoot up at it, and my the riding shorts, reduces the wear off saddle by not having as dirty shorts, I can ride through wet trails, and not get wet butt, no waterproof shorts needed, so on cold days I don’t feel too cold due to being wet.

The front guard reduces the spray on the goggles, I think Ben Cathro’s video showcasing the difference it can make, is great, he recorded the goggles, how much spray the goggles got, it makes a big difference, but tyre can still shoot up rocks on someone infront of me if riding on gravel, the big gravel/stones can shoot up from the tyre, so goggles is a must.

Improvements of the first build I want do:

  • But I would like a hub with better engagement, so far most promising seems to be Onyx Vesper, which Oslo Sykkelcompagniet is distributor of, Ole has confirmed he sell them, so I know who to contact if I decide to i.
  • Strong barrel adjusters for the TRP Spyke calipers, cus they are way too weak, just hitting them with your hand, can snap them off, and the rear suspension will ruin the threads, so I decided to try not using them just having it turned all the way in, I will see how that goes. I haven’t tried a perfect brake yet, and hydraulic brakes that did not leak would be nice, but I am gonna stick with with mechanical for a while. but Trick Stuff brakes seem to have a good reputation. I have also been recommended Magura, I haven’t tried any of those. But I am done with Shimano brakes, I can’t take the evil circle of leaking brakes any longer. So if I got better barrel adjusters for TRP Spyke caliper I think it would bee a great caliper for me, but so far I haven’t found the perfect lever, but ML800 works fine, but it’s not perfect.

Geometron website:

Nicolai bikes, is the manufacturer

Flickr Album:

Chain wear:

Chain wear, is definitely not as bad os the previous on the 2014 Trek Fuel EX, which wore chain to 0.40 at about 80km.

Chain wear was about 0.30 at 144.0km, so a still had plenty life left in it.

I put on a new chain, and I was swapped wheels with summer setup, with fresh cassette, I can also notice it performing better, So I think this is some thing I should continue to do even on this bike.

swapping between multiple chains will make swapping between wheels perform better, and will wear the drivetrain less.

other peoples builds:

5 Years Review: 2014 Trek Fuel EX7 29er

I revised it this review many times, so here it is 5 years review.

I  needed a full suspension bike, at minimum 120 mm travel, I got the best bike, I could as fast as I could.but I knew I might need to change few things, but I test rode the bike around the store, but that was not good enough test, but at the time it was the best bike I could get fast & easy.

My Fuel EX at Askim Museum
bike march 2019
how the bike looked like may 2018

It was a lot better to ride than the 2010 Trek 6300.

This is my first full suspension bike, and my first 29er, I have never ridden other full suspension bikes, so can’t compare it to others.

Don’t let others decide for you if 29er is the right choice for you. The ride quality not only depends on the bike but the person sitting on it and the correct size.

The first rides:

I noticed the bike was also easier to ride, the steering was easier, I also noticed the bike is more stable than my 6300, pulling wheelies was easier to control,  the front was heavier so it helped to make wheelies more stable.

I think this bike is easy to ride, much better compared to my 6300(100mm stem & 720 bars) even its heavier it goes much faster, no matter if its downhill steep up hills, even doing a wheelie.

The bike does not accelerate as fast as a 26er would do, but it maintains the speed longer, but the bike is fast & stable in corners.

Technical climbs is not an issue with this bike, but with most trail bikes there is not.

Handling & geometry

The steering and handling was a huge improvement going from Trek 6300 with very steep head angle, but I want even more stable steering & handling bike.

The Fuel EX struggles at tight switchback climbs, the steering is not stable enough,  it’s easy to ”lock” the front wheel, it requires very precise mode movement, good balance to be able to tun and go up smoothly.
also at straight climbs the is a struggle, you have to shift the upper body position to get grip, it’s a balancing act,
I can climb most of the steep climbs on my local trails, but does not mean the bike is doing a great job, it could be better.
there are something about the geometry that are not to my liking: the reach is too short, the wheelbase short, the bike is very easy too wheelie, and manual, it’s very agile, and ”flickable” as reviewers wants to call it, but most bikes will be for me, unless they are a tandem.

The video below  by Pole, does a good job at explaining & showing the issue with the geometry old bikes have and even some current bikes, it’s the same issue I got, on the Trek 6300 the problem was very noticeable, and steering was unstable, but the Fuel ex, was much more stable, but on tight switchbacks and doing precise trails moves I really notice the flaw.

I got a Dropper post

the lack of dropper post hides the capabilities of this bike.

with a dropper post, I can get my body in the correct position for going downhill.

Even the dropper post adds more weight, it gets you in the correct pedalling position when its up, and for technical sections, you just lower it, and the capabilities of the bike increases, the dropper post made me alto faster in descents and on technical climbs.

The frame supports both internal and external dropper post routing.

The cable should go alongside the brake hose, For the Race Face Turbine 440mm 150mmdrop dropper post for my 17.5/18.5 frame.

if you use 1x drivetrain, you can use the front dérailleur routing for the external dropper post.

My setup for summer 2018:

Worked ok, for me I am a bit more than I am somewhere close to 75 kg with gear on. So I ride with 210 in the shock and 110 psi in the fork, 5-6 clicks rebound both front and rear, which work pretty well for me, I am somewhere close between 70 & 80kg kg with gear on I guess.

I installed Cush Core which greatly improved the ride:
Installation of Cush Core tyre inserts greatly improved the ride comfort, the tyres where tracking well I noticed I was faster, I dropped the air pressure for suspension by 20psi, and 4psi tyre pressure.

The bike is 13,600 Grams(I did not measure it) in size 18,5 so it could be too heavy for you if you really need a light bike, but for me, it’s not that heavy I can ride pretty fast with it anyway, in fact, it’s a huge upgrade from my 26 inches 6300.

after 2 seasons the original bearing in the chainstay worn out,(by worn out I mean they did not turn smoothly and they made noise even when I repacked them with grease, but they had no noticeable play in them) so I had to change them,So I did,but even though I have had repacked them with grease once, I think I should have done it sooner, but I  replaced the original bearings with Enduro bearings, and I regularly maintained them so they lasted alto longer.I have been riding with the second bike in -11 degrees, and on wet rainy days, and all kinds of weather, I had to repack the bearings after few weeks of winter riding, but the bearings were running smooth, So I guess I will just have to check the bearings more often.


handlebar got stripes to help you with brake and gear lever alignment.

Shimano Deore SL-M610 Shifter triggers give smooth and very easy to shift, a lot better than the 2010 Deore, more ergonomic than the past model like the 2010 from my 6300 bike, but they don’t fit me well, and lack necessary adjustments to fit me.

  • holes for internal cable routing for a dropper post
  • external top tube routing support for shock remote or a mechanical dropper post.
  • the bike is stable in the descend and climb
  • the frame got SCG-05 chain guide mount
  • decent clearance for my feet and legs


  • I experienced some knocking, clicking sound from the spokes grinding, in turns or when the temperature was way over 20 deg Celsius, but upgrading to a proper wheel set fixed the issue.
  • The headset bearings failed after few months:
  • Top bearings were the first to fail. This is from a bike rode few months. (bike Nr1) I was doing headset bearing service, and there was a lot of crushed metal in the grease, all over. the rest snapped when I touched it. Some bearing balls fell out when I took the bearings out of the cup, the other is crushed or they were never there in the first place, but I don’t know. The bearings on the other bike lasted for longer, but they wore out quite fast, But I switched to Cane Creek bearings, the type with the seal on top and bottom, they lasted for much longer.
    • the rims had alloy machining residue, on the inside of the rim, it came out of the spoke holes.
    • bad selection of components
    • front resin brake pads got worn out in ca. 2 months, I upgraded to Shimano J02A IceTech, but this worn out the Resin only rotors, which wore out the rotors in about 4 months, I had to upgrade, so I went for Hope Tech Floating rotors, which was a great improvement.
    • The suspension:

      do not have every adjustment there is, but the CTD (climb, trail, descend), But I need more adjustment.

    • Shock & fork compression goes out of adjustment, if you ride fast down a hill and over kerbs, down technical trails, or riding fast over technical trails, this has happened quite often, I had to use zip ties to lock the dial on the for and shock, this also happens on Fit grip dial, which I have got on both the bikes because it got replaced under warranty on service due to the stock damper failing, but what happen exactly I don’t know I did not even notice a difference.
    • Saddle: Bontrager Evoke 2 choice is not no great.


  • The saddle grips well.
  • it flexes and got cushioning
  • I don’t feel the rail inserts
  • the foam cushioning does not work that well, my weight compress it all the way down(  I am somewhere between 70 and 80 KG + gear)
  • I can feel folded synthetic leather where the fabric and the synthetic leather is stitched
  • the saddle is not so comfortable as it should be, I can feel the sides of the saddle.(I notice it if I use the climb mode on the rear shock)

I can feel the bump where the fabric and pleather is, I can feel the side of the saddle

Bontrager Evoke 2 Lime green

The screws on the seat post are too long for mounting lower saddles with shorter rails, the Bontrager saddle got the rails higher s other is more space between the saddle and the screws.if you are using a carbon saddle with higher rail profile, instead of round rails, it’s nice to have long screws, but not that if you plan to upgrade saddle to a lower profile saddle like I did, you might need to cut the screws. But I upgraded to Fabric Scoop Shallow Race, which is more comfortable for me, but the screws on the seat post hit the plastic underneath the saddle, so I had to replace them, but later I upgraded to dropper post so the issue was gone anyway.


the 10 spd 11-36 x3: I don’t need the 42 tooth ring at the front where I live,  but if you have long roads or steep 40 degrees downhill(where you can run out of gears with 36T) its nice with a 42T ring. I have upgraded to 11-46T cassette and 36T Race Face Narrow Wide ring, I will test it out without chain-guide.

You can watch  Seth’s Bike Hacks review to see how the narrow wide chaining performs

  • The rear bolts on the the rocker link (Evo Link) are getting loose very fast, it takes few weeks for them to get loose, but the other bolts stay tight, I think this is caused by the flex in the chain stay and down tube, which then flexes the chain stay so the bolts get loose.

The Shimano Deore BL-M615 brake is awful as they flex causing the threads for the Torx screws to fail. On one the main bike/the bike with hamburger bell) the threads on the rear/right master cylinder failed, so the brake was leaking fluid, and NO I did not over tighten the Torx screws, first I tough the brake just needed a bleed, so I bled them, so there was no air but the next day I lost a lot of braking powers, there was air in the master cylinder, and oil was leaning,I checked the screws they were just spinning endlessly, I opened up the master cylinder and I saw the threads were polished away, I don’t thin kit was caused by a crash, at least not this particular brake, because I have never hit the brakes in a crash with this master cylinder.

The brake felt nice and worked for a short while, but they are just too weak.

  • one of the frames had uneven welding for the zip ties the gap was too small for the big zip ties on the upper cable guide on the down tube,.I could use bit zip tie all over but the one spot.
The first months the bolts did not show any signs of wear, after a lot of maintenance work, but after that, they showed signs of wear and got very worn, the hex slot measured at 40.70mm.

<p>they have tight tolerances, so the park tool Allen/Hex bits & keys fit in tight, but of course, bolts wear out, but these bolts wore out quite fast in my opinion, few bearing services and they were worn out.

from the left, the original worn out bolt & to the right the replacement bolt, which does not have the Hex all the way through, but it starts from the middle.

I replaced the bolts in the rear of the Evo link

This bolt rounded off very easily, I barely turned the Allen key it just shredded the bolt.
I had to make the hole a bit bigger to remove the already damaged material, then I hammered a bigger Torx bit into the bolt as hard as I could, until I felt it sat firmly in, I then carefully took it out and used Torx key to remove the bolt.

Noticeably flexible chain stays & seat stays fast wearing chainstay & rocker link Which are causing many issues

I think the damage in the Evo link is caused by the flex in the frame, forcing the shock into the Evo link. the Evo link is also quite stiff, but not everything on the frame is so lack of stiffness in other palaces makes this frame horrible.I noticed the bike was frame & the wheels were too flexible the first months I rode the bike, but when leaning the bike against something with rear wheel only I could see it flex, I upgraded to stiffer wheels, which greatly improved the almost constant tyre rub, upgraded cranks which improved the ride greatly, but this also affected the flex in the frame, which already was horrible, but I needed stronger & stiffer cranks, so that’s where the Turbine & Atlas came in.

Frame tyre rub_3608

The flexes in the chain stay is causing the chain stay to rub into the tyre is causing the inner tube I wrapped the chain stay to tear the rubber part sticks out and rubs against the tyre. of course the wheel flexes some too, but both combined is not great, but The hope wheels are stiff, but will flex some when pushed hard, but in my case it’s mostly the frame, but with original wheels both the wheels and frame set were an issue.

  • Mis-aligned/pushed out/dislocated bearings:

The issues were worse over time, so in October 2017 it got to the point where I had to press in the bearings in the Evo link after every ride, even riding on pavement without any aggressive moves, or hard technical trails,  what did it that day was just riding on a bike path, the rear end felt awkward, I could feel it happening, eventually I heard squeaking, which was the seat stay rubbing against the Evo Link.

This picture shows the bearings dislocated.
So I had to press the back in place, in this picture they’re pressed in.
This is due to the bearings moving due to too flexible 2014 Trek Fuel Ex 7 29er frame

damaged paint due to slipping bearing, the left bearings were almost ruined, it was quite rough, so I installed new bearings.

There you can see the bearing is so far out that the arms were girding.
  • Bent rear dérailleur hanger caused by flex in the bb area, causing the hanger to bend under load because the chain line changes too. Such extreme, and twisting the chain, this is why I am sure the time I bent a KMC x 11 silver, and crushed the threads in the axle on the Shimano m8000 rear dérailleur cage, was caused by the flex in the frame. I have had to true the hanger after almost every long ride the past months, this is getting very annoying.

  • The bent cassette cogs happen on several cassettes I had to use a flat head screwdriver to get the cogs straight.

A Xt m8000 cassette was also bent due to the flex in the frame, which happens very often in September & October 2017

In September-October 2017 the chain wear got significantly worse. This is basically a new chain which will soon wear out, I did not decrease it, I just rode few times in a week, and did few minutes of MTB, I was sick so I could not do much riding because I was sick, but this is a new record in chain wear, the hanger had a significant bend, at least between 10-20 degrees.
The bike was always flexible, I felt it was too flexible for the first months I rode it, I had to upgrade many components, stiffer wheels with proper spoke nipples & hubs, stiffer cranks, wider bars, better drivetrain, but the frame was too flexible but the summer of 2017 I had so many problems with the drivetrain & bearings, that its really annoying.
  • I would not recommend using tyres wider than 2.3, the seat stay & chain stay are too close for bigger tyres.
Horrible Tyre clearance_3998
Non driveside clearance_4007

  • SHIMANO RT56 RESIN ONLY rotors, After few months of use with Metal pads I wore out the rotors, the holes are rounded off, and I lost a lot of bite.

Noticeable flex in the Shimano Deore M552 crank arms, the cranks were way too flexible for me, the cranks failed on both of the bikes, without any abuse, so faulty crank arms, or they are just too weak for a track stand, flexy cranks like this should not be on a trail bike.

  • like any suspension bike, there is some pedal-bob, but it’s minimal, I get about 10% of the travel.
  • no chain guide, the chain fell off more than 10 times the 2015 season, when jumping and riding ruff places hard, I jumped from 3 steps of stairs and if fell off)
  • Awful housing routing, the housing gets kinked in a twisted S shape, causing fast wear of wire coating wear & housing.
77 Designz guide - Housing rubbing eliminated_5077
Internal cable rou_5082
  • (as you can see the paint got stripped off by the chain)
  • one Allen bolt, on the EVO link, was overtightened from the factory, but I managed to unscrew it by using warm water and Allen key in the freezer for few minutes & the big bolt on the chain stay and seat tube fell off, but the bike shop replaced it.
  • chain fall off when jumping sometimes, my plan is to get 11 speed and get a chain guide.
  • Tyres: Bontrager XR3 Expert, is not a very lasting tyre, because of the soft rubber, l the rear tyre lasted me few weeks, so I upgraded the rear with SE4 Team Issue tyres, which has last me to the winter came.
  • the weight is 13,6 on 18,5(virtual)(real 17.5)
  • the Fox 32 has flex/twisting, from side to side, I am about 75 kg, There is noticeable twisting in the fork when riding over huge roots fast, or through potholes, or front wheel pivot, this is quite common for 32 mm stanchion forks, my Rock Shox Tora sl 2010, Marzocchi Corsa 2012, the flex is a lot less than these forks, but when the wheel is on it can be flexed to about the same, but when wheel is off the fox 32 Evo is clearly stiffer.
  • no dropper post.
  • Bontrager RL(Race Lite) lock on grips: got good grip, but they are too hard a or me and give no dampening.
  • 3 chainrings for a trail bike is not optimal, the problem is over big roots or obstacles you can hit it some time times, and as bigger the chainring is as more chance there is for you to crash or damage the ring.
  • The chain-stay protector does not work well, the chain will hit the zip-ties, and they will snap so the protector will be loose and will scratch the paint,and because it does not cover the whole chain-stay the inside of the chain stay will get hit by the chain, I replaced the protector with an old inner-tube instead.
  • chain slap on the Front Dérailleur: which crapes of the pant and make visible scrapes on the puller arm.
chain slap 2014 Shimano SLX FD-M671A
chain slap 2014 Shimano SLX FD-M671A --
Chain slap scratches

have not received any answer why this happens or what could cause it, I will update you on that since I do

2014 Trek fuel ex 7-upgraded to 1x11 11-42Tx36T Race Face Narrow Wide

This is how the crank looked like before it eventually failed.

  • like any suspension bike, there is some pedal-bob, but it’s minimal, I get about 10% of the travel.
  • no chain guide, the chain fell off more than 10 times the 2015 season, when jumping and riding ruff places hard, I jumped from 3 steps of stairs and if fell off)
  • Awful housing routing, the housing gets kinked in a twisted S shape, causing premature wire coating wear & housing wear.
  • (as you can see the paint got stripped off by the chain)
  • one Allen bolt, on the EVO link, was overtightened from the factory, but I managed to unscrew it by using warm water and Allen key in the freezer for few minutes & the big bolt on the chain stay and seat tube fell off, but the bike shop replaced it.
  • chain fall off when jumping sometimes, my plan is to get 11 speed and get a chain guide.
  • Tyres: Bontrager XR3 Expert, is not a very lasting tyre, because of the soft rubber, l the rear tyre lasted me few weeks, so I upgraded the rear with SE4 Team Issue tyres, which has last me to the winter came.
  • the weight is 13,6 on 18,5(virtual)(real 17.5)
  • the Fox 32 has flex/twisting, from side to side, I am about 75 kg, There is noticeable twisting in the fork when riding over huge roots fast, or through potholes, or front wheel pivot, this is quite common for 32 mm stanchion forks, my Rock Shox Tora sl 2010, Marzocchi Corsa 2012, the flex is a lot less than these forks, but when the wheel is on it can be flexed to about the same, but when wheel is off the fox 32 Evo is clearly stiffer.
  • no dropper post.
  • Bontrager RL(Race Lite) lock on grips: they are way too hard for me, but got good grip, but they are too hard for me and give no dampening, so I replaced them with ESI Extra Chunky green grips in is a pretty good match.
  • 3 chainrings for a trail bike is not optimal, the problem is over big roots or obstacles you can hit it some time times, and as bigger the chainring is as more chance there is for you to crash or damage the ring.
  • The chain-stay protector does not work well, the chain will hit the zip-ties, and they will snap so the protector will be loose and will scratch the paint,and because it does not cover the whole chain-stay the inside of the chainstay will get hit by the chain, I replaced the protector with a old inner-tube instead.
I have not received any answer why this happens or what could cause it, I will update you on that since I do

  • Other reviews:

    While working on my bike  I noticed  the frame protection I put on a while back, looked awkward, it looked like there was a dent in the frame,  So I  I took a closer look and indeed there was a dent

    When I took the fork off to send it for service, I took pictures of it. But there was never an impact on the frame, to make such dent in the frame by impacting it I would have to land on a sharp object,  in that exact spot, which I didn’t. I of course never rode with the bearing outside of the frame with loose fork.

    After replaced Evo Link & chainstay:

    The bearings in that came with the frame parts were crunchy, they had little grease, I had to grease them.

    After I had replaced the chainstay and rocker link, the bearing dislocation issues were gone, for a while at least, but the bolts back in the rocker link kept loosening up, which I heard and read about, apparently loose bolts are still an issue on the newer bikes.
    The bent cassette cogs were still happening, but the premature chain wear was gone, the chain wore at the normal rate.
    The gear hanger was getting out of true, but nowhere near as bad as when the worn out chainstay was there.

    Worn crownrace December 17, 2017

    December 2017 I noticed wear on the crown race on bike nr1:

    (Click on image to see all pictures in The album)

    I got the forks back fro service, but I put on the fork that the less worn crown race, but after few weeks it also showed signs of wear.

    I also noticed the bearings sit skewed in the head tube, unless it’s the head tube that is skewed.

    there was also very noticeable signs of wear on the bearings:

    very noticeable scratches.
    The forks have been serviced by Ccyklon and the CSU has been replaced to the 2018 model.

    I have swapped the fork with the most wear on the crown race in March.

    February 2018 update on the frame issues:

    The seat stay becomes bent.

    Damage to the new chainstay:

    Just showing that there is a gap using a pick.

    I think this is caused by the axle unthreading and the bearing is getting pushed out as I ride.

    I had to install the seat stay from the other frame.

    In this period did not do any technical trail riding, but I rode some skitracks and rodeo n pavement, rode some stairs few times, did some bunny hops some wheelies, but nothing out of the ordinary, a trail frame should take this, but this frame, can barely take any commuting.

    the issues with the hanger continued:

    some more recent content from 2018 & 2019

    The hanger that cracked:

    ABP hanger_4824edit
    ABP hanger_4807Edit

    I checked the cassette the cogs were twisted and bent as were the teeth, I swapped cassette, There was also significant play in the Box One RD which I noticed a while, but it was worse, it definitely messed up the shifting. I suspected that there was something wrong with the hanger, with the park tool hanger tool it looked to be straight but after several checks it was out of true, I eventually heard a cracking sound, I took the hanger off there was a long crack, no wonder the gearing was messed up, So I suspect it failed on the last ride to Skansehytta, and the truing did not work due to there already being a crack. the barely used RD worked fine with that cassette, but that cassette is showing wear on the smallest cog so I could not continue to use the smallest cog, but I am quite sure this will happen over again.

    After a while the bolt was wearing a lot.

    Really worn bolt_4041
    Too close_3926

    I have tools to do the job, so it’s easy to do, but annoying having to do this after several days of riding or for example a 4 hour ride up to Skansehytta and on the trails there and back.

    Removal of bearing, and then I clean the rocker link, so I don’t get creacking from debris.

    Bearing removal w/ RRP tool _0676

    These two pictures showing the tool are from April 2018

    and pressing the bearings in.

    Bearing install_1294edit

    Too close_3919
    Too close_3916

    This is not result of a impact or crash. My Rear dérailleur hanger bent on the ride, I noticed the shifting was messed up, I could left & heard it happen at the steep climb at Holterveien, horrible noise, the shifting was not working properly, and I had to stop and bend it back enough using my hands to get it to a point where I could continue riding it, and I continued riding, but when I riding back down at Holterveien. Ridelog:

    Bent hanger - Skansehytta ride_5332
    Bent hanger - Skansehytta ride_5335
    almost touching_5845
    almost touching_5849
    SunRace CS-MX8 & ABP_5065

    June 9, 2018 The bearings got pushed out at Skansehytta, here are the videos from this day:

    Also here is the Ridelog:


    The hanger that racked:

    and I could easily snap off, so it could easily snap during a ride, or on a light impact, so I had to swap it.

    2014 Fuel EX Snapped Hange_20181205_115356Edit
    2014 Fuel EX Snapped Hanger_20181205_115342Edit

    this hanger had cracked, and I could move it, I was pretty sure it would fail, I used the DAG2 tool It snapped fast, it might have snapped on a ride, if it did that it could have resulted in a crash, but I installed my last spare hanger.

    hanger failure_20181205_094941Edit
    hanger failure_20181205_095028Edit
    hanger failure_20181205_094919edit
    hanger failure_20181205_094913edit
    hanger failure_20181205_093353Edit

    The last hanger I had for 12×142 bent horribly, it bent many times, but hte last time it bent a a lot more, and when trying to true it it snapped off easily.

    Bent ABP Rd hanger
    Bent ABP hanger 2014 Fuel EX 29er
    Bent Trek ABP 301805 142X12mm hanger _20190306_084828

    This is how the hanger looked like after snapping it with the DAG 2.2 tool.


    I suspected it would snap when I tried to true it, it was just too abused by the bike very bent the Rear dérailleur was pointing out to the front.

    I had hangers crack at the same spot there too, so this would eventually snap anyway. I installed the original think qr axle drop outs. only got one spare now.

    ABP Convert QR drop outs & Hope Pro4 QR adapters

    Upgrades I did:

    how the bike looked like may 2018
    • ESI Extra Chunky green grips
    • Fabric Scoop Shallow Race saddle
    • First I upgraded to StraightlineDeFacto pedals, But later I switched to Pedalling Catalyst pedals, which improved my riding greatly.
    • Shimano XT M8000 Shadow+ GS(medium cage) Rear Derailleur
    • Shimano XT M8000 11-46 cassette
    • Hope bolt seat post clamp, as a quick release clamp just ads weight and is not necessary for me, it also looks great.
      I discovered the dropper post was horrible, But I need a dropper post, I eventually installed a E thirteen TRS Plus dropper post which was more reliable, but had its flaws.
    • Race Face Narrow Wide chainring 36T 104mm Later I switched to oval which was very beneficial to me.
    • BB:Race Face CINCH 41 x 92 x 30mm BB92 (PRESS FIT) which turned out to be junk.
    • Maxxis High Roller 2 2.3
    • Bottom bracket & Cranks:
    • Crank: Race Face Turbine Cinch 30mm axle 175mm, are noticeably stiffer, but on one of the bikes I switched to Atlas cranks, which were even stiffer.
    • 24173105230_3bcbca165c_c
    • the pressfit Shimano BB, is hard to remove or service without destroying it, but I had  to switch to BB30 press-fit,  I could have chosen 24 cranks,  I But I wanted 30mm spindle, direct chainring, So I went for Race Face Turbine cranks, but by doing So I had to switch the Shimano BB with to 30mmPressfit BB, So I went with the Race Face BB30, but  unlike the Shimano bb the race face BB has the has the bearings pressed directly in the BB shell, and has no plastic insert on the inner ring in the on the bearing, so the Shimano BB will not wear the spindle, but as the RaceFace has not, there will eventually be wear on the axle, but So far I have not seen any visible wear, I like how Chris King does it, the bearing play can be fine-tuned, adapters are used, the adapters keep the spindles from wearing & easily switch to other spindles/cranksets, the bearings are better sealed from contaminants and is easy to repack/regrease with special tool.  So that is what I wish for my next trail bike. So this is why I went for Chris King Threadfit BB for the 6300, I have seen a lot about Praxis BB lately, which I will look into further.
    • After upgrading to the much stiffer Race Face Turbine Cranks.
    • with the flexy cranks, which felt horrible, the race face cranks were much more durable,stiffer, and I the flex in that the frame, is flexing on the right side in the chain stay when turning /leaning the bike to the left, and it hits the tyre 2.3 tyre, I have a tube wrapped around the chain stay, It’s  between 1-2 mm. So by upgrading to the stiffer cranks instead of the cranks flexing the chain stay is flexing, so the flex in the frame is more significantly more noticeable with a stiffer crank. But riding while seated on asphalt the flex is not as noticeable.
    This is how the Race Face BB30 looks like inside the bike. But I wish it had better protection against wet weather.

    Sometime in 2016 I uninstalled the bottom bracket, I was about to install the new BB when I noticed, there was crushed alloy there.
    Trek ABP Convert Dropout Set 12x142mm – 427343

    Renthal Apex 35 50mm stem

  • RevGrips

  • M6000 brakes which replaced the M615 under warranty, due to failure.
  • Verdict/Conclusion:

    The bike is horrible.

    • not good enough for me, due to the flaws.
    • I need a much stiffer & stronger frame & stiffer fork would be nice.
    • replacing the tyre is the one of the first things you have I had to do.
    • If you ride very steep downhills a, A dropper post will definitely be the next upgrade.
    • the bad choices of components, and chainstay & seat stay, is Disappointing, the must be some flex in a frame or it will snap, but this is too much in one place.
    • The bike rides well, very stable no matter how I rode it,but ,trek did not do a good job on selecting all the components, the drive train is outdated, The wheels are too flexible and get out of true way too easily, triple chainrings is outdated, and the crank arms have too much flex. In my opinion, most riders do not need triple chainring setup, wider range cassette just replaces the Front RD so there is no point in having a front Rd.
    • Bad selection of components and too flexible frame make this a bad choice.
    • A trail bike should handle major abuse, a proper bicycle should handle an average weight rider to a heavier muscular or slightly overweight rider,  this bike can clearly not,  I am 182 and weight weighed about 74kg with gear on last time I weigh my self, but I am sure I ma heavier due to more muscle mass & heavier gear.
    • a trail bike should handle a rider commuting or sprinting, which this bike does not, the increasing issues might be to fatigue, so basically, the frame wearing out, and becoming more & more flexible.
    • Trek has been contacted: I translated it to English: ”The bearing in the Closed Convert link at the rear wheel has moved out of the chainstay. This happens when the chain has expanded, so the bearing is no longer sit securely. This can also contribute to the wheel rubbing the frame.” Even If this is the case, there is down tube Flex so much it takes the chain stays with it, so it will still be too flexible, So I basically need the whole frame that is much stiffer & stronger, that can withstand my weight, but of course frames eventually wear out, but this bike is bout 3 years.
    • Flickr album: 2014 Trek fuel ex 7- Issues

    Original Spec:,3/Trek/Fuel-EX-7-29,12595

    THe 2018 bikes look like this:

    they increased the travel by 10mm, so its 130mm.

    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 5  EVO link_1732edit

    the newer bikes have beefier chain stays, seat stays, the shapes are mroe of a rectangle shape, not oval like on 2014

    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 5_1818edit
    also the cable routing at chain stay has improved, but they bikes come with Race Face bottom bracket so it won’t last long, they have a bad reputation, I have also experienced the horrendous performance from Race face BB.

    they changed the name of the wheels, but I don’t know if they are junk as the wheels on my bike, but it would not surprise me, if it’s just the same weak alloy spoke nipples.
    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 5 EvoLink_1813Edit
    The same seat post clamp, but you can clearly see they have stiffened up the swing arm and rocker link.

    straight down tube, so they have knock block which many hate, but for some it’s not a problem, but some people do more technical riding, and turn the bar a lot, I haven’t tried the newer bikes.

    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 5_1805Edit
    2018 Trek Fuel Ex 9_1869Edit

    Revised Review: 2010 trek 3900 disc

    MSRP (new) $529.99

    this bike is made for commuting I have it in size 18,and in orange

    the geometry so, not good for Mtb, for me, but for people with short armed and short back, this is not a bad thing, but I am about 180 cm high and i am average sized  everywhere,so  I get a very upright position, But when I was a teen i was not as big as I am now so it was ok.

    which is too small of mountain biking  but for commuting its OK, you will sit upright.

    the bike is no real mountain bike, frame is way too short and the handlebar is too short too, this make the bike too responsive.

    ignore the sticker that say trek mountain bikes, it just refers to the standard for mountain bike frames. it’s not a mountain bike,but it can be with some upgrades.

    Seat post parts look like this:

    2010 Bontrager seatpost  saddle clamp parts
    2010 Bontrager seatpost  saddle clamp parts
    2010 Trek 3900 disc 18'' chain drop damage
    2010 Trek 3900 disc 18'' Right dropout
    2010 Trek 3900 disc 18'' - dropouts- upside down

    the frame can withstand mountain biking, but the geometry is horrible for mountain biking.

    2010 Trek 3900 disc 18'' - BB shell -chainstays


    • max tyre size is 2.3
    Chris King BB 30 & Race Face Turbine_0628
    • slack seat tube angle
    • steep head tube angle
    • horrible wheels, the rear wheel comes with a FH-M475 rear hub which has been troublesome, bending axle, possibly due to bad tolerances, this happen on all of the FH-M475 rear hubs I used.
    • The Shimano Acera M360rear dérailleur is horrible, too soft spring, no clutch. the use of a nut instead of a bolt was a bad choice.
    2010 trek 3900 Shimano Acerarear derailleur
    2010 trek 3900 rear a look from above
    • The handle bar bends in a crash, a simple side fall will bend it.
    • Steel stem with only two bolts which is also quite heavy & low quality:
    my custom 2010 trek 3900
    2010 Bontrager Approved 2 bolt stem

    You can notice the low quality part I mentioned on the inside of the stem, weird wave pattern instead of a smooth hole, there were no wall there that has been rusted away, it is just made this badly, as you can see there is paint on it,so this means it clearly was like this when new.

    2010 Bontrager Approved 2 bolt stem
    2010 Bontrager Approved 2 bolt stem
    2010 Bontrager Approved 2 bolt stem
    • The fork is a SR Suntour SF9 XCT V2, 100mm travel  does not have the promised 100mm travel, but more like 20mm, the fork had play and it got even more play so when i was braking hard i felt like the fork would snap or fall apart. it also lack of adjust ability.
    • Nylon Wellgo pedals, which were horrible, the plastic snapped on on side, I don’t remember how that happen, and they were very sketchy, foot coming off was a common issues for me. here is a review from Bikechanic for what seems to be the same or similar pedals:

    • The all in one unit Brake & Shifters/triggers: the stock are v brake lever and shifters, shifters are horrible you need to swing the lever way too far to change gear, so changing gear becomes unnecessarily difficult. if you want the shifter to be at a good angle the brake will be at a bad angle and wise versa.
    • Brakes: the bike comes with single piston mechanical brakes from Promax.. The mechanical brakes don’t work well you need to press very hard to brake. these brake are so bad that V-brakes actually are better for braking wise,not wear wise of course. so i upgraded  to hydraulic & shifters/triggers.
    • Saddle– saddle is way too big for me, it wears out fast because of flex in the saddle the plastic under  it that  have screws in it will flex too so the screws will pop out.
    • Overly beefy brake mount, it’s heavy, and wide.
    2010 trek 3900 brake upgrade Shimano Acera M39
    with upgraded brakes, but they failed.
    2010 Trek 3900 disc 18'' - brake caliper mount & dropout
    2010 trek 3900 downtube & bottom bracket shell
    BB area 0508
    • horrible headset: VP-A68-TK, 1-1/8″ semi-cartridge, with horrible seal, making it a greasy rust water mess.
    my custom 2010 trek 3900- Inside the headtube
    my custom 2010 trek 3900- Inside the headtube
    • The Bontrager LT-3, 26×2.0 tyres got horrible grip in the wet they are a death trap. on wet asphalt they slip and you will crash, there is not enough space between the knobs and the rubber is too hard and not sticky enough to grab on to the asphalt check out the the review by Bikechanic :

    • 25221077486_cf268d17c3

    winter ready & upgraded 2010 Trek 3900 Disc


    • replaceable derailleur hanger, which is a must.
    • decent welds.
    • stiff enough frame for a average rider for at least this size.
    • the brake rotors can handle metal pads.
    Rusted Promax 160mm disc
    Rusted Promax 160mm disc

    Rusted Promax 160mm disc


    seatpost swap Trek 3900_1900
    Most recent state of the bike, assembled with parts from part I took from other bikes I have, and some parts I had used previously. this bike does not fit me, but I just did this to have a spare bike, I will eventually build a new bike with some of the parts I have on the fuel ex plus some new parts.

    waste of money, unless you need a bike fast and it’s the only bike you can then at the point you are i the store.

    I only used the 3900 as winter bike, plus the front dérailleur does not work in  below -2 degrees for some reason, maybe due to the wear it has.

    the review was originally posted 26 june 2015, but I improved the text and added pictures.

    Biltema Yosemate EX-Trail 27,5 E-bike quick test ride

    I am sure there is more wrong with the bike than what I noticed from the test ride.

    The very heavy, I could feel it, the steering was slow, I could barely get the bike to move.

    and of course, the XCT fork is bad, heavy, lacks adjustment, and is horribly heavy.

    the seat tube is quite slack & the stem is absurdly long.

    the gearing is too heavy, absurdly small gearing range.

    I only test rode it, when I met a local rider, I don’t know much about this bike, but it’s awful.

    But I can’t judge all E-bikes from this bike, this is a department store bike with some of the cheapest heaviest components.

    There are some component’s I don’t know, and can’t say anything about, but I would avoid this bike If I was you, I would avoid all bikes from Biltema.

    There might be other issues I can’t think off.

    Even the spec sheet is bad:

    it has Shimano RevoShift, which is awful, it’s very exposed, the plastic cover can be easily damaged in a crash, I had grip shifters from Shimano on previous bikes when I was a kid.

    36 V / 250 W E motor with  9 assistance settings, & 8,8 Ah battery. Max. 25 km/t, 30–60 km rekkevidde.

    Ramme: Aluminium
    Hjulstørrelse: 27,5″
    Rammehøyde: 48 cm
    Gaffel: Dempet med låsefunksjon
    Gir: 7
    Bakgir: Shimano Altus
    Girsystem: Shimano RevoShift
    Veivparti: Aluminium
    Veivlager: Kapslet
    Styrelager: Stål
    Styre/styrestamme: Aluminium
    Forbremse: Hydraulisk skivebremse, Tektro
    Bakbremse: Hydraulisk skivebremse, Tektro
    Kjede: Rustbeskyttet
    Felg: Dobbel bunn, aluminium
    Farge: Sort
    Vekt (kg): 22

    2010 Trek 6300 Review

    2010 Trek 6300 ewhiterootbeer.jpg

    The Official photo from Trek, there are two major differences, the fork is 120mm,the dropouts have a hole, but my bike came with 10mm fork and no hole in the dropout.

    I got this bike for my birthday August 2011 & I have used it ever since, but less over the past few years, due to getting the 2014 Fuel Ex 29er, I needed A full suspension bike due to my back issues, but it had its shortcomings, but I kept the 6300 in pretty good shape & slowly upgrading it, but I do not ride any difficult terrain with it.

    The frame Is 18.5.


    The Shimano SL-M590 shifters:

    Shimano SL-M590_4686

    The shifters have a light feel, you can only up shift once gear at the time, the indicators are pointless, for me or any rider, no matter if you are working on the bike or riding it, I never looked at them.

    as all the shifters on the market over many decades none of them fit me well.

    Shimano SL-M590:

    2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300- look down at front derailleur

    Current Spec:


    Trek 6300 at Rudsmosen_4885
    at at Rudsmosen, Askim, Indre Østfold, Norway
    Trek 6300 at Rudsmosen_4873
    at at Rudsmosen, Askim, Indre Østfold, Norway

    With the current spec, the bike can handle much more than I will ever put it trough, as I can’t ride hardtails trough rough terrain or do gnarly stuff, due to my back & neck.

    Trek 6300_5666
    Trek 6300_5660
    at at Rudsmosen, Askim, Indre Østfold, Norway
    Map at Slitu_0317edit
    at Slitu, Eidsberg, Indre Østfold, Norway
    at Romsåsen, Askim, Indre Østfold, Norway

    current weight of the bike is about 11.90 kg with current setup, as seen in the top pictures, So it’s pretty light.

    I swapped over the cockpit form the Fuel ex, including brakes, the M6300 brakes have perfect shape for my fingers and are gentle on my finger, unlike TRP Spyke which fatigues my finger after hours of riding.

    The Renthal Apex Stem is great, holds on to the bar securely for a long time, My Dream build will definitely have it.

    The Hope Pro 4 Enduro 26er, wheels are lighter,stiffer,stronger, and have much better engagement, but not the best engagement n the market, but good enough to not feel awkward.

    The only forks I could find that would fit this bike were 100mm Recon gold, it was a fast fix, but I am interesting in the MRP forks, a 120mm fork would improve the handling of this bike a lot, this bike can handle it, so far it’s the are some gripes with the current set up significant complaint, but a dropper post would also be nice.I run 90PSI in the fork, the fork has enough mid stroke support & enough bottom out support for me, but it has horrible tyre clearance, no mudguards will fit with 2.3 tyres, you will have to go down to 2.1.

    2.3 tyre clearance 2010 Trek 6300_0250
    2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300-headset-Seatstays rear view
    WIth Bontrager XR 1 Team Issue 2.2

    The bike started out with horrible components, but over time I learned more & found more components, and the bike is reliable now.

    2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300- downtube Safetywarning & EN14766

    I will keep the TRP Spyke as Spares In case the hydraulic Shimano brakes fail.

    The main use of this bike the past years has been grocery shopping, and gentle rides.

    Oval Chain ring from Absolute black, reduced knee pain, have smoother pedal stroke, I can last much longer without knee pain and fatigue.

    I could get Knee pain & fatigue after just 1-2 hours, if I rode hard, but now I can last for several hours.

    Cane Creek Preload Collar

    The collar was a great upgrade, it stays in place, and spins easy so it’s easy to adjust the preload,The bolt stays in place, so it’s secure.

    Chris King Thread Fit bb, runs smooth but it has drag, but I don’t mind it if it will last me a long time, which the reputation suggest.

    E thirteen ISCG adapter, Absolute black Oval Chain ring,73mmbb.

    The chain was rubbing in the lowest gears with the MRP chain guide installed, but installing the Absolute black chain guide which has adjustable guide was an improvement, but there was still rub.

    the absolute black chainring is offset by 3mm, this is causing the to rub on the inner guide plate when in lower gears, but also causes the chain to catch the second smallest cog, and slap back down, if back-pedalling not that you would do that, but if there is enough chain slap the chain this could still happen when pedalling forward, which I noticed few times, The Box One rear dérailleur’s clutch spring was very firm in the start, but it wore out quite fast, it became lighter, the shifting became much easier on my thumb, but still too much for my finger in the long run, but the chain slap increased slightly, that’s probably why I noticed the noisy banging noise from the chain catching the second last cog.

    Silky smooth Chris King Inset 1

    Enough clearance for 2.3 tyres,but it would ben ice with more clearance, for studded 2.3 tyres, but 2.1 studded tyres will fit.

    Skoglia traktorveien_1195
    at Trippestadskogen, Askim , Indre Østfold, Norway
    2010 Trek 6300 rear frame 0103
    28.07.2017 2010 Trek 6300 Rootbeer White_0059

    because the original fork was trouble, I bought this fork, the shop installed it, it was a easy fix,but it eventually developed play, probably needs new bushings, but I had to get a fast fix so I bought the Rock Shox Recon gold, which doesn’t have has as good clearance, the Corsa fork has good clearance for both mudguard & 2.3 tyre, which the Rock Shox fork does not have, I also swapped over bars so I ended up with no bars fro this bike I had to get new bar, only thing I found at the time was this Race Face Turbine bar, but later I swapped for 800mm bars from the Trek Ffuel ex I originally bought for, eventually I swapped over the whole cockpit including Renthal Apex stem. The Fuel Ex is going to a bike shop and Trek will look at it,But I plan on new bike build at some point, So I kept this bike going.

    The Avid Juicy 3 brakes were ok for a while, but they eventually wore out after few years, the lever was slow to return, the return spring for the lever wore out, which is not surprising, quite normal for springs to wear out, but my local shop could not fix it, the I pressed the lever but the braking power was not there,  it was useless, Mabbe the calipers were leaking I don’t know it was years ago, but the master cylinder was well sealed, there were no failed threads or loose bolts, but the lever blade developed play.

    So it was later replaced with Shimano M615, which had a better lever feel, but they also failed eventually, so I got M6000 under warranty.

    hanger 297656_0102
    hanger 297656_0158
    hanger 297656_0141
    hanger 297656_0150
    hanger 297656_0096

    After 7 years of use( 4 regular rest not as often)

    I failed under truing with hanger tool, I only did it few times before, But the last time I noticed something that looked like a crack, and it felt too soft, But it eventually got bigger.

    because the original fork was trouble, I bought this fork, the shop installed it, it was a easy fix,but it eventually developed play, probably needs new bushings, but I had to get a fast fix so I bought the Rock Shox Recon gold, which doesn’t have has as good clearance, the Corsa fork has good clearance for both mudguard & 2.3 tyre, which the Rock Shox fork does not have, I also swapped over bars so I ended up with no bars fro this bike I had to get new bar, onlky thign I foudn at the time was this Race Face Turbine bar, but later I swapped for 800mm bars from the Trek Ffuel ex I originally bought for, eventually I swapped over the whole cockpit including Renthal Apex stem. The Fuel Ex is going to a bike shop and Trek will look at it,But I plan on new bike build at some point, So I kept this bike going.


    The rear end is very easy to throw around, due to the short chain stay and the bike is very easy to initiate/start a wheelie, but with 100mm fork the steering suffers.

    the steep head angle & short wheelbase makes the bike harder to do precise riding like skinnies, but it makes the bike easier to initiate a do endo turn, spinning the bike around the fork.

    if I let go of the handlebar and roll the bike turn in both directions, I struggle to steer it without holding the bars, it requires some practise to do so, but I can can ride horrible bikes with horrible characteristics and still do most of the things I do with a better bike, but of course I notices the shortcomings of them, including this bike, but a longer travel fork would improve the steering and make the bike more balanced by increasing the wheelbase.


    • Due to the stiffness of the frame the chain wear is good, the chain wears slowly, unlike with 2014 Trek Fuel EX 7 29, I am quite sure it’s due to the stiffer frame, less twisting and movement, also the hanger does not get bent as fast, it can go for a really long time, several months or maybe longer, I rarely hit RD hangers, so it stays true for a long time, but with the Fuel Ex it bent very often, but I sent it to a shop for trek to look at I hope they sort it out for me.
    • The frame is stiff enough for me, I am somewhere between 75 & 80g, I don’t have any issues with tyre rub or frame flex, but if you mess up or push really hard while pedalling in a brutal way it’s possible, but if you I don’t do that which I don’t do normally, but I did that just to test what happen, so I am quite satisfied with the performance of this frame.The frame has even flex on both sides,at least very similar.
    • The welds are also good.
    • Bontrager SSR, 31.6mm, 20mm offset, I had no issues with the seat post, but the adjust jaw result in less adjusts-ability of the angle.The logo wore out quite fast, and the black paint became discoloured.


    • very slack seat tube angle, which puts the saddle too far back, even if reversing the seat post, but for a kid or shorter adult it will work, but  not for 180cm person like me, if fork was bumped up to 120 it would be a quite nice handling bike.
    • The Bontrager Rangers wheels, had weak spoke nipples which rounded off when truing the wheels, and when hit by rocks & Shimano m475 hubs was horrible, it had awful engagement, a huge dead zone, which was very noticeable, the freehub lasted about 1 season in the beginning when I was younger, but now as I am a lot heavier they wobble and causes shifting issues due to wobble, and only 3 trips and the axle bent, this was the case on all the the hubs, not only this wheelset.
    • The Bontrager Ranger wheels were heavy, the main reason is the Shimano
    2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300-crank area-Shimano deore dron front derailleur -mega drive
    • The plastic on the front dérailleur was eventually hitting the frame, which caused paint damage
    angle -36T Race Face Narrow wide-my 2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeerwhite
    2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300- look down at front derailleur
    Clearance- 36T Race Face Narrow wide-my 2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeerwhite
    • The triple chainring setup was problematic, no clainguide, and hte hcian dropped on the rougher stuff, like roots, or technical terrain, if you changed gears, a chain guide is a must, but I did not have that at hte time, so this caused chain drop damage on the paint near the bb.
    11-36 10 speed x 36T Race Face Narrow wide-my 2016 upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeer/white
    • Came with 100mm fork not with 120 as official picture shows.
    • The cockpit was not good enough, too long stem, too narrow bars, the original bars were Bontrager Lowriser 650mm 9deg bend 31.8mm dia 6061-T6 alum, I did not have any issues with them, they took some crashes, they did not bend.
    my 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeer/white handle bar front
    2018 Upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 BB shell_0554

    Flickr album:

    Now as I am a adult, I need 800mm bars.

    The original stem

    • Bontrager Race saddle was a good fit for me, but it failed fast,  screws flew off, and the plastic plate loosened, and the saddle was useless, I don’t remember exactly how fast that happen, some months or maybe a year I don’t remember, but quite fast.
    • Bontrager Jones XR tyres were fast rolling but they lacked grip for the type of riding I did.
    • The paint is quite fragile, the paint falling off the was fro ma crowing on gravel many years ago.
    • The only problems with the frame I had was when installing Chris King headset, the frame did not match Chris King’s precision, So I had to use a hammer to make it go in straight then use the bearing press, It sits flush now, but the head tube is not completely flush at the bottom towards the down tube, there is a small gap just there. The original Cane Creek headset was very easy to remove,it does not sit there as tight, the tolerances are different, with Chris King it’s tight, the Chris King headset was a great upgrade, it’s smooth and even turning all the way.

    The original VP-A42E, 1-1/8″ semi-integratedheadset from Cane Creek, I can clearly see there is a gap & the bottom of the head tube is not 100% flush.

    my upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeer/white headtube

    Original headset removed.

    The head tube after removing the original headset.

    The original worn out noisy uneven turning headset, new bearings did not help, it was time to for an upgrade, I could go on of a while but I rather have a reliable solution, So I went With Chris King.

    Serial number do not remove- my upgraded 2010 Trek 6300 rootbeer/white

    quick test ride on 26inch Alprace Sasquatch 2.6 (coop department store bike)



    the bike felt quite heavy when riding it, heavier steering than my fuel ex 7 29er, As the tyres are bigger & wider the wheels are heavier.

    the steering was quite decent,  there was no strange steering like on the Diamant 24inch, the bike did go where I wanted it to, when I wanted it to.

    the Tektro brakes felt easy to press, and control, similar to Shimano’s, but a bit different, with good modulation, and braking power.
    The frame did not have too much flex.

    I did not have enough time to properly test ride this bike as the owner had to ride away.


    I can’t recommend cheap bikes like these, the components are not great, no clutch on the Shimano Rear derailleur, square taper bottom bracket.

    I have still not tested a fat bike in my size.

    2014 Diamant Mammut F24 bike test ride – very heavy kids bike


    The bike does not come with these grips or this saddle.
    Although this bike was too small for me, my points are still valid, I have ridden other 24inch bikes, it’s not the size that makes this bike handle so horrible.This bike is anything but playful, the bike is so heavy its almost glued to the ground, It was impossible for me to do a wheelie or do even a short manual, even jumping was hard, because the weight kept the bike down.



    The brakes lack power, due to only one piston.

    but bunny hops are of course more difficult on a smaller bike, but it still felt way too heavy.

    Riding up stair steps, in the skatepark, worked without any issues.

    The drivetrain is a joke, it’s outdated and

    Horrible steering:

    when I turned to left it wanted to stay left and this was with the tyres pumped hard.

    the fork has a big offset, and the head tube is slack, It’s overkill.

    The bike is way too heavy, I am strong, and I could not get the front wheel to stay up, it was just slamming down hard, bunny hopping was quite hard, due to the weight.


    Many of the Diamant bikes are rebranded bikes from other bike brands, Rockmachine is one of them, But I do not know if this one is rebranded or not.


    I can’t recommend such heavy bike, even for an adult it’s way too heavy.

    Australian distributor: