I got these jerseys in august 2016, and used them since then, now it’s Jan 2020 as I updated the review, along with my other jerseys, I switched type of jersey according to the weather, the Racer Braap jerseys I used when it was not very warm as in midsummer. I don’t have an exact number of which I have used each jersey.
I use size L for Alpine Stars jerseys, with Fox I use XL, Mavic Size L, Swix base layer I use Medium.
a bad video I was not able flip due to not using proper software:
No itching label at the neck or itching stitching.
Comfortable against the skin
Good fit. No issues with the jersey arms sliding up.The jersey fits well over Poc elbow pads or probably any other protective padding.
after some months of use the the label on the inside started peeling. but the label does not matter.
All of the jerseys eventually developed a tear at the upper chest lower throat area, in a upside down triangle, after few years of use, then eventually some the sleeve ends the stitching failed. but nothing that can’r easily be fixed with a sewing kit. All 4 jerseys developed a tear like this, but this one had a shorter tear, but just gentle movement using my hands I could make it grow, so with in a crash or a lot more use it would tear a lot more, so this has to be sewn. Repair instead of throw away clothes.
So far my most durable jersey has been Mavic Crossmax but it has a itchy label so I only use it in when I use a base layer. I think this is due to the type of weave it has, much tighter, no exposed thin threads, like on the Racer Braap jersey.
I can’t really recommend it due to bein too fragile, but the fit is great.
I can only recommend a jersey that won’t tear, and last many years, which this jersey does not. but of course you can keep using it and repair it, patch it up sew holes shut.
so if you don’t mind it’s not as durable as a jersey could be, and you want a jersey that had this amount of air flow through it, and not more or less, then you can go for it, but I would not recommend it.
I originally posted the review in 10 April 2015, but since then I used it some more, when Gemini Xera light died, I had to get new lights, but in the meanwhile I used this light again until I got the new lights. I I have updated this review with more pictures and video, improved the text.
its not a bike specific light but, i need a decent light fast, but it’s a horrible choice if you use it at max power for long distances after few days you need new batteries, So I can’t recommend this light for mountain biking.
So i got my self LED Lenser M7 LED (Item no. 7439) flash light,
i got a clamp too it fits thick bars and comes with rubber spacers so it can fit on thinner handlebars or the thinner part of the bigger bars.
It comes with a belt pouch
It attaches with a Velcro scrap & a metal button for extra security
easy to adjust focus, by moving the head forward & backwards.
made of metal so its strong, but its heavier than plastic lights of course
nice button on the back with nice feel, and click.
pattern for extra grip
good battery cartridge, you can’t get the batteries or cartridge stuck inside the light.
Last about 6 Hours with Energizer Max Power batteries, after 6 hours it is getting too weak to ride with.
Lights up way too small area,its useless for riding fast in dark woods or paths/trails.
It should be water proof but i got damp inside on the inside behind the glass, when I rode in some really rainy weather. I think this happen in 2015. I eventually noticed water on behind the glass, I can see some spots in there, after the water has dried out.I could also eventually push the glass in, so no wonder water came i when the glass was rattling in there, but this did not make the light fail, but it eventually dried out, but as I got better lights intended for my use, I don’t use this light any-more for riding. But I did not manage to get any video or picture of this. I don’t know if the rattle in the lens is due to me dropping the light or if it was like it when new or if it just developed over time, but I definitely dropped it several times after & probably before.
In my experience the rechargeable batteries get empty faster, so but the it’s expensive to buy new batteries every week. but in case you cna’t charge batteries it’s nice to have a flash light that works with normal batteries.
Bracket item No. 7799-PT
tool-less easy to mount the clamp/mount
easy to take off the clamp/mount
clamp got turning joint so you can’t adjust the light for the right angle
after more than 1 season the light began to slip forward when riding .
if you crash or get off the pedal and hit the light you will push the light out or almost out of the clamp,but during rides it does not slide out, or even just a lot of bumps, it will slide out.So first thing I tried was a a section of an inner tube,
then I tried a reflector mount with a rubber strip, this keeps it secured.
When my Xera light failed, I had to go back to using this light before I got proper light set up.
This is a ok flash light, but not a bike light, way too narrow and short beam, but hte 210M claim is true.
Buy a proper bike light, I later bought a Gemini Xera light which eventually failed, and was not good enough anyway, but then I got Exposure Six Pack & Diablo, which was a much better choice, but it was not cheap.
I have tested the lube in very wet days in various times of the year I have also tested it in the winter in harsh conditions it performed quite well, so far this has the lube with highest consistency I have tried, so make sure you wipe off access because this lube creates ”spider webs”.
I put on the Extreme Wet lube in case it would be wet but became quite dry, But I did not change the lube, I continued using it, it was not dry, so I rode with it after the snow was almost gone, I rode long distance on paved bike path with sand on them, the lube attracted a lot of sand.
the drive train was very crunchy, due to sand and gravel sticking to the chain. I was riding many km’s on the pavement with sand on it from the winter.
It works great in harsh winter, I have ridden in -10 Celsius, but it for very dirty conditions.
The long tip makes it easy to lube the rear dérailleur.
I have updated the review on Dec 16, 2015, I have improved the review.
they cost the same as the giro remedy X gloves and are way better when it comes to comfort & Poc offers protection padding but Giro does not.
the impact protection is too thin, they won’t help on a proper impact, I tested it with hitting my hand harder and harder on a stem
The adjustment strap is twisting and keeps getting undone.
because these gloves were actually bit too big(size large) I changed to 2016 Resistance strong gloves(size medium),the palm on some of the gloves worn out, I think this is caused by the material used & the venting holes in them, so far the Index Dh has been holding up OK,but I guess over long period of time they will eventually wear too.
I have used the gloves my two pairs for the whole winter of 2017-2018 I managed to wear out the stitching in the long finger due to braking, but that is easy to fix.
I use these gloves in the winter, with fleece gloves and Nitrile gloves, for colder days with -5c and below I use two pairs of fleece gloves, and nitrile gloves for waterproofing, which has worked great.
I recommend doing something similar.
I get good to feel a and control over the cockpit with this setup, but with Ski gloves, I Lack control and feel.
because these gloves are one size to big, I had to get them sewn in where the gap with the elastic is, which results in no need for the Velcro strap. So the glove fits securely, and I can take it on and off easily.
Since I first wrote this review in 2016 I have improved this review, more & better pictures, improved text, and more details.
no more twisted strap, like on 2015 Index DH glove
more air flow than the DH index glove provided by the holes in the palm
I stay cool even in 25 deg. Celsius
true to size, I have 21cm knuckle size, and the medium fits me perfectly. I went from Index DH gloves in large which was a bit too bit too big, to this glove.
Durable ceramic-coated SuperFabric® with abrasion-resistant properties, this actually works.
the impact protection is silly thin, they won’t help on a proper impact, I tested it with hitting my hand harder and harder on a stem.
Because of the holes on the palm, the durability suffers when you get something (pedal pins for example) stuck in the holes you can tear the fabric, but this is also caused by the fabric’s weakness.but if you do it can easily be fixed if you got some sewing skills.
the triple dots on the fingers wear off fast because they are glued on.
The Stitching failed on one pair, They were Only used one day, I put these on today and the stitching came loose.
the glue holding the Velcro to the rubber strap failed of some pairs of gloves, but you can easily fix this with a sewing kit. Sadly I got an inconsistent quality of the stitching on these gloves with the gloves I got.
after many months of use, the glove stretched and had to be sewn in the palm to fit me properly.
These tires give excellent grip, but they, of course, don’t stop you from sliding on very slippery ice when you turn too fast or brake too hard, no tyre will.
the strong stink goes away after few weeks of use so the stink will not irritate you when you got the bike indoors.
after about 4 months of use, there were some cracks in the tyres, which have been caused by broken glass, some studs fell out some snapped in half, but studs can be replaced.
sticky well gripping tyre
the tyre is stiff enough for the studs to sit securely, which is not the case for WXC 300
good pattern, that helps with getting the mud away and gripping the surface.
Does not lose studs easily
they can last several seasons, at least 2 or 3 probably more if you are not too crazy with them. Since 2016 I have put these tyres through its paces with hard single track, riding on ice, riding street, I have dropped jumped, I rode down & upstairs, and they survived.
due to the 2.1 studded tyre will feel like horrible no matter of the rim width, with a lot of vibrations,lowering pressures means folding & hitting the rim, for this to not happen I have to add 4 psi more from usual setup, so instead of 28psi rear it’s 32 psi rear & 28 psi front, so when the Esi grips wore out & got softer my hands hurt due to the massive increase in vibrations.
they got a strong stink to them when they are new, which last few weeks.
about 4 months of use:
If you don’t mind the harsh ride, But proper grips help, and you want durable tyres these will do the job, But I might try bigger tyres, but be as durable as Gazza Extremes 294.
Check out Tommi Kivimäki‘s review & set up of Suomi Tyres Gazza Extremes 294:
This is not a cycling specific jacket, but a sports jacket, but I think it it’s good for cycling.
The arm zippers:
To close them while riding, you have to do the bicep bodybuilder move, which will hold the jacket in the sleeve in place while you zip it up, do it carefully of course.
excellent fit, which you can see in the video above, yes this jacket is very comfortable, there isn’t a point where I feel like it’s annoying or restricting or uncomfortable in any other way, I can move freely.
easily fit into a backpack, it’s so thin and flexible it’s easy to roll up & fold up to get into the bottom of a backpack.
the jacket covers up the neck, which is a necessary feature to have, there are some jackets out there that have too low neck coverage, but of course, I still use 2 Buff’s for maximum coverage, covering my face with one & neck with the other one.
Good coverage. I went with size XL, size L could fit me, for walking, but I went with the XL so I had full coverage, so the when my arms are down my hands are inside the jacket, but when having it on when riding and moving in all directions and stretching my arms and moving my upper body backwards, the jacket covers everything, and I don’t get wet.
The velcro sleeve wrist adjustment works great, there is great room for big ski gloves to go on the inside of the sleeve, and the Velcro adjustment is a good proof solution to adjust for maximum protection/coverage, no matter if you use huge gloves or thin gloves, you can adjust it to fit with ease.
well placed venting zippers, so when I began to be too hot, I just unzipped them and I stayed the perfect temperature.but when wearing a backpack you can’t fully unzip the zippers, but that is not a big deal, But you have to be careful unzipping it, as these zippers are more fragile than the heavy duty zippers.
the hood fit perfectly under the helmet, and it has adjustment i the back head and 2 in the front, but it is not in the way of the helmet adjustment which is great.
Excellent fit, perfect for mountain biking.
the adjustments are placed in the perfect spots.
2 big & well placed front pockets
the jacket has an adjustment in the hood & the bottom, which is also a feature that is necessary to keep water & mud out, it’s easily adjusted.
I can wear the POC elbow pads without any fit issues.
the front of the hood is stiffer than the rest
you can roll it and put it in your backpack, it takes little space. so its perfect for me, as the weather can change from warm summer weather to cold and rainy weather the same day.
I have ridden in -9 Celsius with only Swix base layer and a jersey under this jacket, I stayed warm, but I also did a ride in -11 Celsius I stayed warm but if I was still too long I felt bit colder, so if I am very active, I won’t get cold in -11 degrees, but, if your activity is not intense, another jersey should do fine.
The jacket fabric:
I crashed few times, but the latest crash, I jumped a root over & over a log and landed, due to my back twisting and I lost control, and my bike went to the left I went on the right and, the jacket’s sleeve landed on the gravel-covered asphalt, I got a small hole, on the left sleeve. but after being used for a really long time afterwards the hole did not get any bigger.
The velcro stitching on the sleeves loosened up, but it is to expect & long term use.
the zipper is definitely the biggest weak point of this jacket.
2 of the lower pins in the zipper, bent so I had to bend it back, but it came keeps coming back to pent position, I don’t know why this happened, maybe in one of the few crashes I had.
This jacket is a seasonless jacket, it can be used no matter the season, in my opinion, no matter if you run, ride, or ski.
But the Zipper has to be improved, it’s too easy to damage it, This is the first of this type of zipper I have ever used, But I have used many clothes with YKK zipper, but they all were bigger.
.I have used these brakes on 3 bikes, some more than others, until they failed.
No banjo fitting
The brake lever body/Master cylinder flex when braking harder than 50%,which is why the plastic lid & the separator & the Master piston unit to bend or get damaged, and cause leaks, so the lever will be soaked in oil, and oil will spit out through the middle where the plastic lid is.I compared the flexing in the levers on m396&m615 and there is significantly more flex in the m615, if you press the lever blade half way you wont see flex on the m396,but on the m615 you will.
Leaking caused by plastic cover bending upwards, and front and the back is also being pushed upwards but sideways too, causing a leak.
temperature changes, will cause changes to the materials, a minor hit can cause this. the design is clearly flawed.
I had to replace one master cylinder due to failed threads, and I had the leaking issues with the new one too.
Impossible so far to get placement seals/grommets/diaphragms, or just the master cylinder separately.
The cause of failure was certainly not over torquing the screws, It certainly was not a crash that caused it,because I never crashed with this particular brake.
Hinged clamp,no need to remove grips & shifter.
the levers are easy to bend back if you bent them,which I have done on 2 bikes so far.
good braking power,at least if you use Metal pads
it’s not too expensive
it’s not too heavy
no need to take off grips to take off the brake, because of the swing arm clamping mechanism.
The Brake Lever will bend if you crash into a tree(before I upgraded the handle bars i was used to ride on the fuel ex 7 with 720 bars),at low-speed,don’t just let the bike fall on the ground,it can bend the brake lever.
You can of course bend it back with proper tools and technique.
M615 Piston seals: the number written on pistons seals.
IUY 21.1 25 3.19 78 NOK
The Both brakes are too fragile.
Because the brake lever body/master cylinder is way too flexible and that there is a palstic lid,instead of metal lid,which causes the brake to leak.
I have seen a lot of reviews claiming these brakes are a good value at a low price point.
I agree with the braking power for the money is there, but not the reliability, these brakes are too fragile.
same goes for the other brakes with the similar design, for example, M396, M395, but at least it’s possible to get Reservoir Lid Unit for M396, M395.
This wheelset is a perfect example of why you should know or read long term reviews.
The Bontrager hubs using in this wheelset are manufactured by Formula Hubs.
the type of riding I have done is the most normal trail/enduro/singletrack
The highest I ever jumped with these wheels was 1 meter.
This is the stock wheelset on my 2014 trek fuel ex 29ers.
The front wheel wheels were fine, but the primary bike had a noisy front wheel, its most likely the spokes, or the rings in the rim, on the rear rims many of them were loose.
Maxis high roller 2 are quite hard to take on and off on this rim, a good tyre lever is needed.
The wheels get out of true way too fast.
I managed to make it true sideways but not radially.
after few km on my spare bike, the rear tyre was hitting the inner tube wrapped on the chainstay, I took off the tyre and tried to true the wheel, it was impossible to radially true it.
even at max tension & loosening the and loosening the other spokes above to make it true)the spokes could not pull the rim inwards.
the primary bike had a flat spot, but it also was untrue very fast, and the tyre hit the frame on it too, but it was fixed with truing.
but the flat spot was impossible to fix, I managed to get it better but still was about half cm out of true radially.
this was after few months
the rim had drilling residue after spoke holes.The other had something black inside it, probably drilling residue with black paint-job.
The spoke nipples:
It’s Am not brutal or using the wrong tool for the job, I have never seen so soft spoke nipples, but some worked fine. so this might be faulty nipples, something wrong with the alloy on these spokes.
many of them were inaccurate so the spoke wrench did not fit properly unless forced,
almost half of the spoke nipples got rounded off,t he metal was like chocolate that began to melt, some nipples even cracked,t o take them off I need pliers, some nipples even snapped/cracked.
I used the correct size of a wrench, I will rebuild the wheels with new rims, spokes, and spoke nipples.
I have been puncturing a lot, even I go beefy tyres: Maxxis High roller 2 2.3, and I have been riding down stairs and rough terrain, and lost air pressure, and ridden down stairs until I hear a loud bang, But I did not get any big dents.
So upgrading to tubeless might be a good upgrade.
28 spokes are too few on a 29er trail/xc/enduro bike.these are the Moist flexible wheels I ever rode.
Bigger the wheel is more spokes it needs.
more spokes easier it is to true it, and longer they stay true.
The original rim tape, eventually will twist and bend, when you get punctures.
the freehub on the spare bike had no grease in the freehub bearings.
I had ridden the bike only 60km, at the time, but this resulted in play, and loud noises, I had to repack it with grease.
the front is almost idiot proof.
It’s so easy to service as long as you got the right tools for the job.
the rear bearings did not need any repacking, they have good, blue grease in them.
to take off the freehub you need an 11mm Allen/Umbraco key & an adjustable wrench, and use the long side of the Allen key.
because of the Park tool 11mm, Free-hub retrench is too short for this particular hub.
Way too flexy get untrue too fast, the only good thing is the easy to service hubs
It’s best to read a lot of reviews, and see what your friends or the rest of the community are riding and what they think is good, before you order a wheelset. that what I am gonna do.
These shorts use 2 buttons instead of one button through a hole.
The pockets are smaller than in the trail vent shorts, a small wallet or keys will fit perfectly.
the Ykk zippers are smooth
Zip pocket at leg works well as phone pocket
Durable material used in the the seated area.
True to size fit
good breathability, the short is made of a thin material in the thigh and front area, and with Super Fabric on the sides. these shorts are a huge improvement in terms of cooling over the trail vent shorts.
perfect with knee pads
good adjustment & sizing, the sizing is perfect for me, I am 32 in waist and 26 in the hips, and I use the adjustment straps to the max both on the Poc Trail vent and Resistance shorts.
if you don’t adjust the straps just right the back of the short might feel like it’s going to fall off, even if it does not, I think this is due to the stretch material, but as long you adjust it properly it’s not an issue.
This one is half con and half pro, the huge Sony xz premium phone with Love Mei case just fits in snug, but but could be bigger, or maybe or have two sizes one on each side, but the zipper is a weak piont, also having phone in there is wearing holes in the fabric.
The VPD padding does not compromise comfort.
And of course white will look dirty
the VPD padding could be wider and longer.
only 2 colour choices
better zippers are needed, stronger zipper, with strong zipper grip.
I had to use a zip tie to fix the broken grip.
eventually the zipper failed on all of the shorts.
Because of the fit, comfort, and protection, I recommend these shorts.
These shorts are one of the best shorts you can get, but these are the only proper shorts I have tried.
In my opinion, these shorts are the best shorts for use so far.
If I use the 42T cog on the cassette the chain will fall off when back-pedalling, but when I shift up to 37T cog the chain stays in place no matter how hard I pack pedal.
On Hope Pro 4 freehub:
the Pro 4 free hub, is 11 speed compatible, which means it’s wider, and comes with a spacer,and with 11speed cassette, the cassette is closer to the frame/more outwards to the right, which gives a better chain line, so the backpedalling issues is gone,Unless you backpedal at unrealistic speed,then it will fall off,but I have done 180 U turns in 1stgear(42T) and the chain never fell off.
So if your rear hub is compatible with a wider freehub,you should get one.
Huge noise reduction when riding:
The first thing I noticed after I upgraded to 1×11 is that all the slapping ,banging and scraping noises are gone from my bike.
The narrow wide chain-ring will make more sound than the triple chain-ring, but when ring in rough terrain or jumping, the noise is a lot less than a conventional triple ring set-up would make.
There is big difference in the force needed to press to press the small trigger(up shift),but I got used to it after days ,and it did not feel as hard to press, and I like the shifter feel,I get less accidental shifts this way.
The change in gear is instant like promised.
The possibility to shift by bending you finger and do a finger kick motion,which you can’t do with Sram shifters.
(like this(https://youtu.be/7HvJma35fZA) to push the lever/trigger is gone, as the Shimano Deore 10 Spd had.But for me this is a acceptable compromise.
But there will be no accidental shifts
There is huge difference in the force required to push the triggers between SL-M610 & M8000 , so if you plan to upgrade a kids bike you might want to let the kid try it out first,but for the youngest I recommend getting SL-M610 or something similar.
you can shift down 4 gears
The I-Spec B shifter will have rotational play,because of the pin system, it’s not avoidable.
The screw came with a lot of Blue thread-locker,so needed to try few times until I finally got it tight without loose shifter.
But the adjustment screws did not,so you have to buy thread locker for them, I used Loctite 243.
The rear Derailleur:
A lot stiffer Clutch system, which is good.
Very smooth,fast shifting movement.
Esy to service, as long as you got magnetic bowl, and are careful with the round seal fo the spring assambly.
Race Face Narrow wide:
The chain will not fall off no matter how hard I ride, if it falls off you must be crashing really hard.
There is some drag when pedalling but this is not noticeable when riding, the chain still wants to be on the ring for about a half of a second, but this is impossible to avoid with Narrow Wide.
set up used in test: 2010 trek 6300 1 x10 36-11T cassette Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, with 36T Race Face Narrow Wide chain ring.The chain dropped when it was in 24 Tooth cog, but when I tried in 21 cog it stayed on. Even on stairs that were not that steep probably 40 degrees,the chain fell off.
Pros of 1×11:
You get all the gears you need if you just select the right chairing for you.
a lot quieter drive train
dropping the chain is rare unless you ride in low gears down steep stairs.
No front chain rigns to deal with
easier to clean the drive train,less dirt & mud on the drive train
if you want to sue a chain guide, you can use a single ring chain guide which will be more secure,and look better
if you use a wide range cassette with a 9T cog you can get the a pretty high gear as you could with triple rings,but with 11-42 with 36T cassette I get a pretty good range,but once I get on the 1km flat straights I will run out of gears
Cons of 1×11: There are no real cons riding 1×11 it will havefaster wearing cassette and chain of course,but that’s not a reason to not upgrade. the 37 and 42 cogs are the fastest wearing cogs, because of the bigger chain angle.
the cassette & chainring wore out at the end of the season like it did with 10×3, maybe few weeks sooner wear. I don’t have to shift as often and skip so many gear so often,so I get less side to side wear on the chain,by using 1×11,so the chain growth will be less.
If i changed the chain,a lot earlier, the cassette and ring would have lasted longer,but I had no spare chains,but I have a stock of chains now.
The Rear derailleur cage will have visible wear, with 1x setup,because of the chain line the chain will hit the plates,but its not a big deal.
I absolutely recommend Both the Xt m8000 drivetrain and the Race Face Narrow Wide single chaining.
Removes dirt that no dish soap, I use it all over the my bikes
Cleans off Muc off dry and wet lubes.
I had no issues with cleaning dirty chain with Muc off wet lube on, wuith Finish line Grunge Brush with Motorex bike clean the chain was sparkly clean,but Muc off lubes are easy to clean off,with proper cleaners.
It feels dish washing soap or lube, so its important to rinse it off before a ride, if you use it on your brake pads or discs you will reduce the braking power if you don’t rinse it off.
I have used it Motorex bike clean to clean the brake discs and brake pads, but I rinsed it off well.
I can clean the whole bike with this product.(if there is not extremely sticky stuff on it)
no matter how dirt it was,mud,lube,and other things it removed it with no issue.
But If you want to remove good grease, you can’t with this product, you will have to use a a degreaser.
it works faster than finish line’s cleaner,I can use less of it.
it got a mild smell, does not stink extremely like some other stuff can do.
washing the drive train works well, compared to finish line cleaner,with finish line I had to use their degreaser which stink/smell horrible and still would not remove as well as Motorex’s bike cleaner.
Some stuff even the good cleaners and degreasers struggle with:
but it can’t clean the sticky shimano lube that has been my second fuel ex that has been indoors most of the time,and has been only ridden 3 times, and standing indoors for the rest of the time. but I tried re lubing it with Finish Line Dry lube, and that loosened up the chain and it now works like new.
recommended Motorex’ cleaner,definitely worth a it.
cleans fork that is brown from dirt with no issues,that dish soap can’t clean.
can be used without water,the super wash does not have the dish washing soap or lube feel effect like some other cleaners have (Motorex for example), it feels more like water.
cleaning a well lubed chain with Finish line wet with lube full of dirt, will be a issue, and the multi degreaser can’t do the job either.the Multi degreaser got a strong stink.But after many months the stink is not strong any more.
works best on dirt only,I have tried Motorex & Muc off, the Motorex cleaner ,Both Muc off and Motorex works great and even faster than Finishline.
But here is where the Finish line Dry lube comes in, the second fuel ex has only been ridden 3 times, and had been standing indoors, without re-lubing. the Motorex could not do the job. but the Finish line dry lube loosened up the chain and now it works perfectly.
I have not tried to ride with this lube, but I assume it is perfect for dry conditions.
The only con of the lube is that it stinks,but you should not sniff lubes anyway.
the lube works very well, and does not attract much dirt, when you put too much on and don’t wipe off the excess it will not make ”spider-webs” on between the rollers and the chain. like Weldtite Extreme Wet lube does.
because the lube is not sticky the chain stays pretty clean no matter conditions, and is easier to clean that some other lubes like the extremely sticky lube on the Shimano chains.
Works well in the cold, I have been riding it in summer over 20 Celsius down to -6 Celsius with out any issues
the Multi degreaser got a strong stink.But after many months the stink is not strong any more, but you should not breath stuff like this anyway.
not any pros that stand out
cleaning a well lubed chain with full of dirt, will be a issue, and the multi degreaser can’t do the job either.
The Degreaser Works well, but It struggles with cleaning the lube/grease that come on KMC & Shimano.
I have never tried this lube, but after watching cannondany’s Shaibike’s video it’s clear that i will never buy it.
The round paintbrush style brush & round small long brush works well for cleaning off tricky parts,
The brush with the hole, can be used for cleaning crank arms, but i can’t recommend using it for cleaning the brake disc rotor, because the brush can slip out of your hand and you can hit your hand on the sharp rotor,and hurt your hand.
not any pros that stand out just does thee job done
no rubberised grip
no rubberised brush body, which can result in scratches on frame or bike components
This is probably one of the best chain cleaning devices, unlike closed system witch are bit more time consuming, the Grunge Brush work as good as them but it is a simple solution, you can use it to clean the front chainring(s) and the cassette to, witch works great.
If you crash a lot, and need a durable jersey, POC Flow is a good choice.
if you want soft and super comfortable jersey i would go for the Trail jersey instead, biut for me this is OK.
confortable, the jersey is smoother inside than outside, so it will not be as unconfortable as you might think.
Very Durable,i crashed 2 tiomnmes ( on concrete stairs and on asphalt) with this jersey on and it still looks like new,but i assume if you crash very bad the POC logo might get some scrapes.
no itchy size label
i ordered wrong size but i kept it did not have time to deal with it so i just used it, but one size too small was wearable but not so comfy to put it on, but hopefully i can get some more of these in the right size
Conclusion, if you want durability, the POC flow jersey is a good choice.
i have ridden thsi fork in the winter only in 2014 in about 5 to -2 degrees c
but 2015/2016 winter i ridden it alot in – 6 degrees celsius,but the coil became notisable stiffer at -6 degrees celsius
I had this fork on a 2010 trek 6300 disc, and thspring/coil was way too soft after i got over 70kg. so i upgraded to the 100mm coil 11.4015.437.090.
after the shop changed coil, the plastic preload adjustment screw failed,here you can see that the threads are stripped off.that resulted in 20mm loss of travel,and the coil scratching agist the crown.
here you can see how i bodged it,with a gripend,but of course i no longer have prelaod adjsutment.
i had lubed the stanchions every week,cleaned the bike when it got some dirt on it.
This fork was not my biggest priority at the time, i got more bikes, so i got thsi fork on my trek 3900 witch is my spare and winter bike.
the 6300 disc got a 2011 Marzocchi Corsa SL RC
now know who import sram/rockshox to nroway so i can buy directly from them, but before I did not know and the bike shops could not get parts for forks.
I have jumped ridden technical downhill without any issues,but of course the preload adjustment broke and I lost travel.
much better that the Sr suntour forks at similar price.
seals last long time after 4 years it got few small cracks(withc isww prettyy good in my opinion, the seals on the 2011 sr suntour xcm fork worn out jsut in few weeks)
the pop lock remote works smoothly, and does not take up too much space.
can be upgraded to solo air. witch I want to do.
don’t notice flex when braking, jumping 1 meter or doing stunts, riding down stairs or shredding the local trails.(when having the wheel between your legs and the fork in your hands you can of course notice flex)
travel can be increased up to 120 mm or decreased to 80mm
prelaod adjsutment screw is made out of palstic so it wears out too fast.
the Reboudt adjustment umbraco key will fall off when you ride. so you better set it up how you want it and take it off.
i got the blue coil installed, and i turned the rebound dampenign to max, but its still too fast.
Lack of proper adjustment, the fork has preload and rebound adjsutment,but the rebound adjustment range is too small.
the coil spring snapped
decent body but bad internals,with low durability, so i can’t recommend this model.