if left too long in the tyre off the rim it can look like this:
Pro:
The sealant lasts as long as claimed.
sealant lasts about 6 months.
I rode in conditions between -10C and 30C, I did not notice any issues.
works well sealing thorn punctures, one rotation and no air was escaping, at least I could not hear it or see any sealant escaping, and the tyre held air well after.
Cons:
the price is not crazy, but cheaper options exist that perform as well, but cheaper options exist that work as well or better.
can be hard to remove, nearly if not impossible to get rid of all residue, also there can be long and big sections of latex, usually most of the tyre gets covered in it.
if sealant is left for too long, and you don’t check if sealant has tried, you might see similar thing to what people called ”Stanimals” with Stan’s sealant, similar thing happens with this sealant too, It does to most sealants.
v
Verdict
Not the best option, but works well, after years of use, I know it works, but when I could not find it in stock, It was time to try something different, I tried Tune One Shot, the price and big bottle was appealing, I will continue to use it and see how it performs, but it does not leave a mess like Orange does and is cheaper.
I had to replace to overly big, bulky, heavy Park Tool rod, somehow I managed to damage the threads or pent the rod, probably when I dropped it. It would not go trough a hub smoothly anymore, and spinning the adjustment knobs was not as smooth as new.
Good:
spins easily
good tolerances so the green adapters slide into the hub caps easily.
small form factor, but does what it needs to, without being overly big & heavy,
I’ve used the Geiszler several times, so far I haven’t had any issues.
Bad:
mine came with a banged up knob, But I did not bother returning it as I needed it. Otherwise it looks like a quality product. It came in an sealed bag I had to cut open.
Picture from Chris King bearing service guide shows
It being done with a pic but I found it difficult to use a pick to remove the clip, I never managed to make it happen, using the park tool pick. I had to use the Knipex7803125 flush cut pliers, but the tool is not intended for this, but it works well enough to grab the clip safely and get it out.
Pros
Quality finish, superb tolerances, it was easy to install in to the head tube of my Geometron G1, superb tolerance component into another. but this might be problematic with bad tolerance head tubes this was an issue I had with Inset1 on 2010 Trek 6300, I had to tap with an hammer to get it evenly in, then I could continue to press it in, but this bike came with undersized headset, with rounded cups, so they were easy to remove or press in, 3900 frame I had was easy to press in but I had a wear metal section sticking out, I noticed this after removal. so be aware that installing an headset with great tolerances into a frame with bad tolerances won’t be optimal. these frames are not quality like the Nicolai/Geometron frame. For badly made head tubes an lower end undersized headset will fit better, but that’s just an workaround to avoid proper manufacturing. I am done with badly made frames and components. So I therefore used Chris King due to the great reputation their headsets have.
slow wear after 4 years of use, it’s still not indexed, still smooth. I’ve used a Renthal Apex 35 stem which has been secure, so loose headset due to loose stem was not an issue I’ve experienced, which is an issue I’ve experienced with Race Face Altas stems, but never with Apex 35 stem, but sometimes i noticed just a slight play due to actual wear of the headset, bu so the longevity is great, but that was barely noticeable, and I tightened it up, the headset continued to be smooth. So it’s been an great experience. So far I’ve done 1 289 km on it according to Trailforks GPS tracking, so I can’t complain, but I will continue to use it and report back on future developments.
10 years warranty, I won’t be surprised if it outlasts the warranty.
different colour options.
stays well greased and clean for a long time, I only have to service it once a year, I put a lot of grease on top and the cover to seal it up well, so much so some will get squeezed out, then I wipe it off, it works really well. The cover has an o-ring in the middle, and cover covers the bearing properly, and the grease I added, all makes it well sealed.
Whole top assembly seen upside down, cover, spacer and compression ring.
Cover seen from the underside with the green O ring
Spacer that goes on top of the bearing, compression ring with the green O ring which sits at the cover.
the spacer that goes underneath the compression has an O ring
Cons:
This one is not a big deal, but it can be quite tricky to get the clip off, taking the clip off might bend it slightly, but that’s an easy fix, if you carefully bend it back. but if it’s kinked you need a new clip. It’s best to use small pliers, carefully to not damage the seal. But you can get spares, so not an big deal. https://chrisking.com/collections/bottom-bracket-small-parts
Not good to breathe in, but it stinks horribly. Dries the skin.
Pros:
works well for degreasing brake rotors
Removes grease and dirt.
Loosens gorilla tape glue from the rim.
does not appear to damage rubber or paintwork, at least not on the 2014 Trek Fuel EX, 2010 Trek 6300, nor Geometron G1 nor anodized parts, like on the Hope hubs or black mutators on my Geometron G1.
No need to rinsing off.
Cons:
There is a lot of liquid left that splashes in the bottom of the box.
It can be difficult to get the pink tube into the spray head.
Discolours painted bench or table, but eventually it goes away, but takes a long time can be weeks or months.
as you can see there are grey and white discoloured spots on the table.
I don’t know which of the ingredients are causing this, and if only happens on this type of paint or coating on my table or happens on others.
Würth Isopropyl alcohol does similar thing to the table, but it also leaves a sticky residue, same on painted window frame and my floor.
Chris King have had a great reputation, but this bottom bracket is flawed.
I bought it in 2017, I needed a bottom bracket, bikeshop.no had it in stock so I bought it, I knew I needed it for a future bike, it fit the cranks I had. and wanted to use. it was a fast and easy solution. Now I have my dream bike. I installed the BB late 2019 when I build the bike, used it since.
But I had it on on my enduro bike for 4 years, but the amount of maintenance it needs is annoying. So I hope I can resolve the issue. if not I will have to buy a different BB, but before I do that I will give it a chance.
The BB uses Adapters to fit the 30mm crank axle/spindle they are sold separately, inserts have been claimed to reduce wear on the spindle.
Sometimes they stick to the spindle when I remove the crankset.
Taken on November 12, 2020
Taken on February 27, 2020
Pros:
quality machining & anodising
durable
longevity is great, kind of, because only if you inspect it often and service it often, I guess it will be trashed fast if you don’t, but the amount of work you have to do might drive you mad.
Cons.
Grease came out on first wet, muddy rides, this happen on both bottom brackets, of course with original grease and seal, but it happen later after serrvice too.
This bottom bracket might be flawed, or the seal is faulty, and eventually wore out making it worse, the seal comes off on the inner race and ends up on top of the clip, some times the clip opens too, which leaves the bearing exposed. I doubt new seal kit will solve it. So if I don’t fix it the bearings will be prematurely worn.
November 18, 2022
First I thought I might be due to gravel, sand dirt pushing the clip, seal off. but November 18, 2022 I inspected the bike after the ride at 17th, it happen during a ride where I did not ride on much gravel, no mud, mostly concrete, granite, asphalt, the BB did not have much debris on it. But the seal worked itself off.
November 18, 2022
November 18, 2022
November 18, 2022
Griding paste
Here you can clearly see the seal came off. October 25, 2022
Taken on June 8, 2022
Taken on June 12, 2021
Drive side grinding paste Taken on June 8, 2022
As you can see it’s a greasy mess, a grinding paste of dirt, gravel, grease. So I want to try something else, which does not require as much maintenance. So after few rides in mud, gravel I might need to take the cranks off, service the bottom bracket.
Drive side grinding paste Taken on June 8, 2022
Taken on October 25, 2022
Taken on October 25, 2022
Taken on October 25, 2022
Taken on October 25, 2022
Taken on October 25, 2022
Taken on October 17, 2022
Taken on October 17, 2022
Taken on October 17, 2022
Taken on October 17, 2022
Taken on October 17, 2022
After more testing with just greased by hand, the seal no longer came off, I’ve tested in with deep puddles, and
seems like having too much grease causes the seals to come off,and BB area becoming a greasy mess, grinding paste.
Taken on December 1, 2020
Some rides all grease comes out, like in these pictures, this was a muddy and wet ride. So the next day I had to grease it.
I am not sure if can recommend this BB yet, maybe the seals were faulty.
The headsets have a cover, the seal and ring are protected, but the bottom bracket is not. This is a problem. I’ve never had issues with the headsets. The headsets have a top cover and crown race which cover the bearings. but the BB don’t, so the bearings are more exposed. But if that is was the issue or the seals were faulty, I don’t know I will have to see with new seals..
But if the seal issue will happen with new seals, and it’s not just a bad batch, I can’t recommend this bottom bracket.
Maybe someone can make a cover for it, I don’t have equipment to do so. but the issue is probably possible to solve, with a proper cover, seal system. But so far nobody has developed an upgrade for this BB.
I will have to try to get new seals from CK or a retailer.
I struggled with great pain in my knees since my childhood, I wanted oval drive then, I wanted an oval chainring, but now you can easily get hold of oval drive. Oval drive eliminates the heavy point in the stroke. The knee pain is gone thanks to oval chain ring.
Boost or non-boost?
For one ride I tried the boost chainring on the the G1 with boost DT Swiss 350 hubs, the offset was too extreme, chain was not secure enough in the biggest cog, it was unpredictable, it could drop if you hit the rear wheel just right, also the chain scratched the cassette. So I think this will result in much more wear.
I went back to non-boost 6mm offset, it has a much better chain line, no issues. I recommend to stick with non-boost chain ring, unless your bike requires you to use a boost chainring due to bad clearance.
I have tested 34T and 32T, 34T was too heavy for 29er with 11-50T cassette,
32T fits much better, for enough high enough top speed, but intend to try 30T.
Very muddy 34T
Pros:
Super light
Durable, great longevity.
Has worked smoothly for me.
Can be used as a bottle opener, at least 32 and 34T.
Pic shows 34T. Don’t worry I’m never drunk, this is just alcohol free apple cider.
Mud is not an issue.
Slow wearing, comparable to others in same material.
The holes does not only make the chainring lighter, but also help to shed mud.
Very muddy 34T
Cons:
Some people managed to bend and break the drive by impact, but they do not use an bash guard. So for me it’s not been an issue.
Tolerances at the Cinch bore have varied between the chainrings I’ve tried some were super tight, some looser fit. I don’t know if this is due to the machining tolerances or surface treatment. But otherwise great quality.
Verdict:
Use a bash guide, if so you won’t snap or bend the chainring, then overbuilt chainring is not needed, so then you can have a light chainring like this.
If adhesive is left on the rim you can spray with a degreaser or isopropyl alcohol and rub the adhesive into a ball, roll it on the rest and repeat elsewhere if needed.
Pros
easy to get, sold by many retailers, like department stores and bicycle retailers.
Robust tape, does not tear easily easy to remove, as long as you do it slowly and carefully, then you leave minimal glue behind. As you can see in the examples:
Nice to use the tape to attach the remote control cable for the Exposure SixPack lantern to the handlebars.
25 mm x 9 m is perfect for taping 30 mm DT Swiss FR560 and H552 rims if you tape one side then the other.
But haven’t tried taping only the middle yet.
Nice watch for many uses.
Marking the seat rails to reset the saddle in the same position easily without any guesswork or doing the adjustment process all over again.
Fixed molti-tool sleeve
Keeping the zip ties and mudguard better in place and protecting the frame from wear from my shoes and the mudguard. not pretty but does the job.
Gorilla tape on the hand pump in case I snap something on my bike or tear a jacket or other clothing.
Cons
It doesn’t seal right away, even though I do a perfect job of taping. Shaking the wheel helps but doesn’t seal, but after a long bike ride it stops leaking. This is despite looking waterproof even when stretching it, I could not see trough it. Several people have mentioned Gorilla tape does not seal up as well as a real rim tape. I guess this is due to the holes it has, , I’ve held the tape up to light and I could see trough the tape, so no wonder it lets air trough, stretchered I barely can see trough it, but stretched I can see trough it better. So this is why people told me to not stretch it too much I guess. I tried to not stretch it too much, but keep it tight enough to lay it down properly. Sometimes it held for longer than others, probably due to variation in how much I stretched it. But a long ride always helped to seal it up.
The tape clearly is not optimal as a rim tape, but if you have to, can’t get other proper rim tape, then this can work as a bodge, but it can take some time before it seals good enough, so take a ride to make it seal. Butt if you want something that seals straight away use real rim tape or a tape that has the same properties, sealing completely.
I bought used wheels, had them since the summer of 2021, some nipples were quite worn, but used the wheels for a while, but after straightening several times some nipples were completely rounded, when it was time to change the tire and tape the rim I saw that several spokes cracked and there was terrible corrosion.
Yes I used a tubeless setup, with gorilla tape, Tune One Shot sealant, but I don’t know if that affected it. But One Shot is supposed to not have the nasty stuff, so I don’t know if it corrodes the nipples.
I rode in the winter too, so there was probably some snow and water with road salt. but the problems did not come until the autumn 2022. So lousy spokes for my use. As the spokes were quite worn from before, I didn’t cover them in grease, but there is a method you can use, but messy and a lot of work. but I upgraded to the brass nipples, to see how they work.
But one was rounded under the nipple swap with the DT Swiss T handle tool, others had were slightly different in size, were tighter, I used the Park Tool spoke wrench. So I’m disappointed with DT Swiss’s nipples. The brass nipples are probably better, but still disappointing. But I am very happy with Sapim brass nipples, used them for many years, both winter and summer, stone chips, a lot of straightening. and is still in good condition, despite using them in the winter without covering them in grease, they held up well, so I stopped using grease.The grease thing was something I had to do on the Bontrager wheels, it helped to reduce corrosion both on the nipples and rim, but still eventually happen, maybe i did not do it often enouhg, but those nipples were horrible, so I was not surprised when the DT Swiss Alu nipples failed too.
mtbboy1993 
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