The stem is quite big and probably is be quite strong.
Map of Whistler bike park on the sides.
I had issues with the bolts loosening, and the Loctite 243 disappearing, I’m not sure why, but maybe I am pushing the stem to extremes with the temperature changes, and the Loctite gets worn off, most of the traces were gone. I had to check before, during and after the ride to make sure it was secure, other wise I would risk the bars spinning, which happen several times, and when getting the bike out from room stem home to outdoors in -10C this was not the case with Renthal apex 35 stem as long as I used Loctite 243, the only times I made it loosen was without Loctite or not cured with big temperature change, I have tested this on the Apex stem I Intentionally Did not put Loctite 243 with the Apex them the stem spun on the steerer, at a day with rapid temp change, it got to 25C, but it did not other places where it had Loctite on. I also experienced this in the winter when I just installed it and Loctite did not cure. But with The Atlas Stem it would happen even with Loctite cured, It did not handle this well even with Loctite 243.
I can’t know if it’s a combination of the materials used in bolts,stem, or and the clamp design, but the difference was huge.
The Atlas Stem is made of 6061-T6 aluminum.
I haven’t tried changing the bolts yet, So I haven’t tried Titanium bolts, I don’t know how much it will effect the issues I experienced. I know many are satisfied with this stem, But they might not be using it to the extremes I am, with the temp changes.
The bolts don’t have good tolerances in the head, so there will be some play between the hex key, I had the same experience with all other Race Face Bolts, on Turbine Dropper, Atlas Cranks.
Not for ”weight wienies”, 9 grams heavier than the Renthal Apex, it’s quite a noticeable difference, when I hold them, but not a a huge difference, but it all adds up.
If any one has tested this stem with aftermarket bolts, Titanium bolts, or have any knownlage to share about it, feel free to comment on this.
I have of course not tested it in a lab, or special tools so can’t have precise findings.
There is a huge difference is how smooth the Cane Creek collar spins vs the original preload collar from Race Face, making it easy to adjust the preload. the original Race Face collar with a tiny weak wood screw. But the Collar from Cane Creek was a big improvement, to the Robust Race Face Cranks, they served me well and took some abuse, but the collar and screw always annoyed me. So far I haven’t found anything negative about it.
The Titanium bolt bolt has also stayed secure for months, but I had to adjust the preload, it doesn’t loosen up fast like on the original Race Face preload collar, it can stay secure for months, so it’s more secure than the original preload collar.
The bolt has no signs of wear in months of use, which was not the case for the wood screw on original preload collar, which rounded off after fast.
The gold thread ring is not used for Race Face cranks, but for Sram cranks.
I think it’s fitting that this is taking the place of my annual NAHBS post. This post is about idiots making decisions, marketing of garbage, and what happens on a ride when something that is supposed to work, doesn’t. 528 more words
Race Face Turbine & Easton Haven dropper posts licensed tech from 9point8, cut 9point8 claim the tech is the same but not the materials or tolerances, and not made by them. But I can’t know if these issues will happen with both or if it’s just bad tolerances from Race Face.
Both of the replacement droppers had issues:
brake stopped working on the two replacement posts.
The bolts rounded off way too easy on all 4 of them.
a crunchy sound at end of bottom travel, on the two replacement droppers, I could also feel, it was rough, like there was crushed metal or sand in there, but the seal was intact.
long very noticeable scratch on the same place on the station.
Foam ring failed on one of the droppers, moved the foam ring to apply
Sram Butter/Slickoleum, but this is not a surprise, they eventually wear out they are not strong, but I was careful, but even so it snapped.
I won’t go too deep with technical stuff and specs, which have already been mentioned in other reviews, here are my experiences with these bars so far.
The bar dampen vibrations well, the bar feels great, it was a huge improvement from 720 Bontrager race lite bar and stem.
Enough flex but not too flexible:
Some flex can be felt if you get some weight on the bar, for example with some front wheel trails moves, but nothing too crazy, but on the trial when shredding hard, there is no awkward feeling, these handlebars feel great, the defenitly dampend vibrations, but they won’t eliminate vibrations completely, that’s impossible, with narrow studded tyres, rough winter conditions can cause a lot of vibrations which will be felt even with silicone grips, I have not tried wider studded tyres yet, But I am quite sure it would improve degrease vibrations, but for summer riding, these bars have been greatm they dampened vibrations well, combined with silicone grips, they were a good combo, but harder you ride mroe dampenign you woudl want, So that’s why I have ordered Rev grips.
Survived several crashes:
The handlebars survived several crashes, I have jumped off these two skatepark ramps, and landed on the handlebar, no damage was done, I rode hard for several months later and no cracks.
I have also crashed while climbing a bike path, due to my joint slippage issues I accidentally did a brutal turn to the left and lost control of the bike, and the bike slammed hard down on the asphalt, there was no damage to the bars, but I bruised my shoulder.
I have noticed some white spots on the end of the bar, it’s probably just clear coat damage, it only happened on one of the two bars I got.
I have been riding through summer & winter, and the bars performed well, some say to avoid carbon in the cold, I have been riding in at least down to -10C, without any issues so far.
These bars are a great choice if you like colour matching bars for a custom build or improve the look of your current bike, but the white/silver look will fit any bike.
Some other reviews:
No need for me to mention everything every other review mentioned So you can read these reviews too.
The remote has a well-designed clamp, there are 2 threaded holes for inward-outward adjustment to get the lever positioned perfectly.
The barrel adjuster is very fragile, it can easily be bent or kinked, It’s likely this will happen in a crash if the housing forces it to bend, but it’s so weak you don’t need a crash for it to fail, I never crashed so badly that the barrel adjuster would bend.
For me, the fastest & easiest solution when the awful Shimano M552 cranks failed, was to get turbine cranks. The cranks on my trek 6300 bike failed, so I de sided to switch to my trusted Turbine crank, plus crisp King bb, so I decided to try Atlas cranks, I thought I would notice the difference, and I did.
I am about probably between 72-80kg, I ahven’t been on a scale in a long time (but this number varies on how much stuff I got in my backpack, I have not weighed in a long time, so I am probably heavier now.) with all the gear on
The crankset is quite similar looking, but there are several differences, the turbine cranks look pretty similar to the Atlas cranks, but the Turbine have a lot more material shaved off in arm where the bolt is & on the tip, the is also a difference in how much material is shaved off behind the crank, the Atlas has more material near the pedal.
Both of the cranks have a nylon preloading, which has a small Allen screw, which was easel rounded off even though I was very gentle.
So as soon as Cane Creek Preloader came on the market I ordered it for all the cranks.
Here is a pictures of it installed.
And on Turbine:
for commuting, or xc/light trail, these cranks were stiff enough, but on rougher trails, I could feel the difference in stiffness or another technical riding. I think turbine cranks have a good stiffness compromise & of lightweight.
First ride with Atlas cranks:
Even before riding the cranks on the trail I could feel the difference in stiffness, just by a quick test in being on the bike in the kitchen, I tested a lot of positions, but then I took it for a spin on the trails some days later.
The first ride on the trails, I felt the difference, even though my frame is quite flexible in the BB area.
I could feel that the Atlas cranks were stiffer while riding technical trials.
The bolt has bad tolerances, causing wear, this is the case for both Turbine & Atlas the cranks of course
I think turbine cranks have a good stiffness compromise & of lightweight, so perfect for a commuter bike or for lighter riders.
I am all for everything that gives me better control, and stability, which both Turbine and Atlas cranks gave me over the cheaper much more flexible Shimano cranks I have ridden in the past.
If I use the 42T cog on the cassette the chain will fall off when back-pedalling, but when I shift up to 37T cog the chain stays in place no matter how hard I pack pedal.
On Hope Pro 4 freehub:
the Pro 4 free hub, is 11 speed compatible, which means it’s wider, and comes with a spacer,and with 11speed cassette, the cassette is closer to the frame/more outwards to the right, which gives a better chain line, so the backpedalling issues is gone,Unless you backpedal at unrealistic speed,then it will fall off,but I have done 180 U turns in 1stgear(42T) and the chain never fell off.
So if your rear hub is compatible with a wider freehub,you should get one.
Huge noise reduction when riding:
The first thing I noticed after I upgraded to 1×11 is that all the slapping ,banging and scraping noises are gone from my bike.
The narrow wide chain-ring will make more sound than the triple chain-ring, but when ring in rough terrain or jumping, the noise is a lot less than a conventional triple ring set-up would make.
There is big difference in the force needed to press to press the small trigger(up shift),but I got used to it after days ,and it did not feel as hard to press, and I like the shifter feel,I get less accidental shifts this way.
The change in gear is instant like promised.
The possibility to shift by bending you finger and do a finger kick motion,which you can’t do with Sram shifters.
(like this(https://youtu.be/7HvJma35fZA) to push the lever/trigger is gone, as the Shimano Deore 10 Spd had.But for me this is a acceptable compromise.
But there will be no accidental shifts
There is huge difference in the force required to push the triggers between SL-M610 & M8000 , so if you plan to upgrade a kids bike you might want to let the kid try it out first,but for the youngest I recommend getting SL-M610 or something similar.
you can shift down 4 gears
The I-Spec B shifter will have rotational play,because of the pin system, it’s not avoidable.
The screw came with a lot of Blue thread-locker,so needed to try few times until I finally got it tight without loose shifter.
But the adjustment screws did not,so you have to buy thread locker for them, I used Loctite 243.
The rear Derailleur:
A lot stiffer Clutch system, which is good.
Very smooth,fast shifting movement.
Esy to service, as long as you got magnetic bowl, and are careful with the round seal fo the spring assambly.
Race Face Narrow wide:
The chain will not fall off no matter how hard I ride, if it falls off you must be crashing really hard.
There is some drag when pedalling but this is not noticeable when riding, the chain still wants to be on the ring for about a half of a second, but this is impossible to avoid with Narrow Wide.
set up used in test: 2010 trek 6300 1 x10 36-11T cassette Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, with 36T Race Face Narrow Wide chain ring.The chain dropped when it was in 24 Tooth cog, but when I tried in 21 cog it stayed on. Even on stairs that were not that steep probably 40 degrees,the chain fell off.
Pros of 1×11:
You get all the gears you need if you just select the right chairing for you.
a lot quieter drive train
dropping the chain is rare unless you ride in low gears down steep stairs.
No front chain rigns to deal with
easier to clean the drive train,less dirt & mud on the drive train
if you want to sue a chain guide, you can use a single ring chain guide which will be more secure,and look better
if you use a wide range cassette with a 9T cog you can get the a pretty high gear as you could with triple rings,but with 11-42 with 36T cassette I get a pretty good range,but once I get on the 1km flat straights I will run out of gears
Cons of 1×11: There are no real cons riding 1×11 it will havefaster wearing cassette and chain of course,but that’s not a reason to not upgrade. the 37 and 42 cogs are the fastest wearing cogs, because of the bigger chain angle.
the cassette & chainring wore out at the end of the season like it did with 10×3, maybe few weeks sooner wear. I don’t have to shift as often and skip so many gear so often,so I get less side to side wear on the chain,by using 1×11,so the chain growth will be less.
If i changed the chain,a lot earlier, the cassette and ring would have lasted longer,but I had no spare chains,but I have a stock of chains now.
The Rear derailleur cage will have visible wear, with 1x setup,because of the chain line the chain will hit the plates,but its not a big deal.
I absolutely recommend Both the Xt m8000 drivetrain and the Race Face Narrow Wide single chaining.