I really needed a full suspension bike, at minimum 120 mm travel, I got the the best bike, I could as fast as I could.but I knew I might need to change few things, but I test ridden the bike around the store, but that was not good enough test.
It was a lot better to ride than the 2010 Trek 6300.
This is my first full suspension bike, and my first 29er, I have never ridden other full suspension bikes, so can’t compare it to others.
Don’t let others decide for you if 29er is the right choice for you.The ride quality not only depend on the bike, but the person sitting on it and the correct size, but for me it climbs well and turns well even in gnarly sections.
I and I felt at home straight away, I noticed the smooth and easy controllable steering straight away, But 800mm handle bars would fit my arms better, but this is will depend on your body measurements.
I think this bike is easy to ride, much better compared to my 6300(100mm stem & 720 bars) even its heavier it goes much faster, no matter if its downhill steep up hills, even doing a wheelie.
The bike does not accelerate as fast as a 26er would do, but it maintains the speed longer, but the bike is fast & stable in corners.
Technical climbs is not an issue with this bike, but with most trail bikes there is not.
Get a Dropper post
the lack of dropper post hides the capabilities of this bike.
with a dropper post, I can get my body in the corr ect position for going downhill.
Even the dropper post adds more weight, it get you in the correct pedalling position when its up, and for technical sections you just lower it, and the capabilities of the bike increases, the dropper post made me alto faster in descents and on technical climbs.
The frame supports both internal and external dropper post routing.
the cable should go alongside the brake hose, For the Race Face Turbine 440mm 150mmdrop dropper pos.
if you use 1x drivetrain, you can use the front dérailleur routing for the external dropper post.
do not have every adjustment there is, but the CTD (climb,trail,descend)
work pretty well for me I am bit more than I am somewhere close to 75 kg with gear on.So I ride with 210 in the shock and 120 psi in the fork, 6 clicks rebound both front and rear, which work pretty well for me I am bit more than I am somewhere close to 75 kg with gear on.
I am ca 182 cm high,the 18,5 frame and the 29 wheel is perfect for me
The bike is 13,600 Grams in size 18,5 so it could be too heavy for you if you really need a light bike, but for me it’s not that heavy I can ride pretty fast with it anyway in fact it’s a huge upgrade from my 26 inch 6300.
the 10 spd 11-36 x3: I don’t need the 42 tooth ring at the front where I live, but if you have long roads or steep 40 degrees downhill(where you can run out of gears with 36T) its nice with a 42T ring.I have upgraded to 11-46T cassette and 36T Race Face Narrow Wide ring, I will test it out without chain-guide.
You can watch Seth’s Bike Hacks review to see how the narrow wide chaining performs
Saddle: Bontrager Evoke 2
- The saddle grips well.
- it flexes and got cushioning
- I don’t feel the rail inserts
- the foam cushioning does not work that well, my weight compress it all the way down( I am somewhere between 170 and 180 KG + gear)
- I can feel folded synthetic leather where the fabric and the synthetic leather is stitched
- the wheels: way too flexy,get untrue way too fast
- I experienced some knocking, clicking sound from the spokes grinding, in turns or when the temperature was way over 20 deg Celsius.
- the rims had alloy machining residue, on the inside of the rim, it came out of the spoke holes.
- trek should have done a better job with selection of components.
- front resin brake pads got worn out in ca. 2 months,I upgraded to Shimano J02A IceTech
- the saddle is not so comfortable as it should be,I can feel the sides of the saddle.(I notice it if i use the climb mode on the rear shock)
- The screws on the seat post are too long for mounting lower saddles with shorter rails,the Bontrager saddle got the rails higher s other is more space between the saddle and the screws.if you are using a carbon saddle with higher rail profile,instead of round rails, it’s nice to have long screws,but not that if you plan to upgrade saddle to a lower profile saddle, like i did, you might need to cut the screws,
I upgraded to Fabric Scoop Shallow Race, which is more comfortable for me, but the screws on the seat post hit the plastic underneath the saddle.
- Shimano Deore SL-M610 Shifter triggers gives smooth and very easy to shift, a lot better than the 2010 Deore, more ergonomic than the past model like the 2010 from my 6300 bike.
- handlebar got stripes to help you with brake and gear lever alignment.
- handles well on the rough downhills
- holes for internal cable routing for dropper post
- external toptube routing support for shock remote or a mechanical dropper post.
- the bike is stable in the descend and climb
- Shimano Deore brakes work well and are not expensive brakes.
- the frame got SCG-05 chain guide mount
- no tools need to take off the wheels
- fork: work well, even its not the top of the line fork from Fox it’s good in my opinion, i don’t notice much flex when riding.
- the rear suspension works very well.
- The EVO link is stiff & light
- feet & legs do not hit the swing-arms
- Shock & fork compression goes out of adjustment, if you ride fast down a hill and overkerbs, down technical trails,or riding fast over technical trails,this has happen quite often, I had to use zip ties to lock the dial on the for and shock, this also happens on Fit grip dial, which I have on one of the bikes because it got replaced under warranty on service.
- The rear bolts on the Evo Link are getting loose very fast, it takes few weeks for them to get loose, but the other bolts stay tight, I think this is caused by the flex in the chain stay and down tube,which then flexes the chain stay so the bolts get loose.
The Shimano Deore BL-M615 brake are awful as they flex causing the threads for the Torx screws to fail. On one the main bike/the bike with hamburger bell) the threads on the rear/right master cylinder failed, so the brake was leaking fluid,and NO I did not over tighten the Torx screws, first I tough the brake just needed a bleed, so I bled them, so there was no air but the next day I lost a lot of braking powers, there was air in the master cylinder, and oil was leaning,I checked the screws they were just spinning endlessly, I opened up the master cylinder and I saw the threads were polished away, I don’t thin kit was caused by a crash, at least not this particular brake, because I have never hit the brakes in a crash with this master cylinder.
- one of the frames had uneven welding for the zipties the gap was too small for the big zipties on the upper cable guide on the down tube,.I could use bit zip tie all over but the one spot.
Noticeably Flexy down tube & chain stays, Which is causing many issues:
- Misaligned/pushed out/dislocated bearings:
Bent rear derailleur hanger caused by flex in the bb area, causing the hanger to bend under load, because the chain line changes to. Such extreme, and twisting the chain, this is why I am sure the time I bent a kmc x 11 silver, and crushed the threads in the axle on the Shimano m8000 rear derailleur cage, was caused by the flex in the frame. I have had to true the hanger after almost every long ride the past months, this is getting very annoying.
A Xt m8000 cassette was also bent due to the flex in the frame.
After upgrading to the much stiffer Race Face Turbine Cranks, I noticed that the frame is flexing on the right side in the chainstay when turning /leaning the bike to the left, and it hits the tyre 2.3 tyre, I have a tube wrapped around the chainstay, It’s between 1-2 mm. So by upgrading to the stiffer cranks instead of the cranks flexing the chain stay is flexing, so the flex in the frame is more significantly more noticeable with a stiffer crank. But riding while seated on asphalt the flex is not as noticeable.
- I would not recommend using tyres wider than 2.3, the seat stay & chain stays are too close for bigger tyres.
- SHIMANO RT56 RESIN ONLY rotors, After few months of use with Metal pads I wore out the rotors, the holes are rounded off, and I lost a lot of bite.
- Noticeable flex in the Shimano Deore M552 crank arms, the cranks failed on both of the bikes, without any abuse, so faulty crank arms, or they are just too weak for a track stand, flexy cranks like this should not be on a trail bike.
- like any suspension bike there is some pedal-bob, but it’s minimal, I get about 10% of the travel.
- no chain guide, the chain fell off more than 10 times the 2015 season, when jumping and riding ruff places hard, I jumped from 3 steps of stairs and if fell off)
- Awful housing routing, the housing gets kinked in a twisted S shape, causing premature wire coating wear & housing wear.
- (as you can see the paint got stripped off by the chain)
- one Allen bolt, on the EVO link was over tightened from the factory, but I managed to unscrew it by using warm water and Allen key in the freezer for few minutes & the big bolt on the chain stay and seat tube fell off, but the bike shop replaced it.
- chain fall off when jumping sometimes, my plan is to get 11 speed and get a chain guide.
- Tyres: Bontrager XR3 Expert, is not a very lasting tyre, because of the soft rubber, l the rear tyre lasted me few weeks, so i upgraded the rear with SE4 Team Issue tyres, which has last me to the winter came.
- the weight is 13,6 on 18,5(virtual)(real 17.5)
- the Fox 32 has flex/twisting, from side to side, I am about 75 kg, There is noticeable twisting in the fork when riding over huge roots fast, or through potholes, or front wheel pivot, this is quite common for 32 mm stanchion forks, my Rock Shox Tora sl 2010, Marzocchi Corsa 2012, the flex is a lot less than these forks, but when the wheel is on it can be flexed to about the same, but when wheel is off the fox 32 Evo is clearly stiffer.
- no dropper post.
- Bontrager RL(Race Lite) lock on grips: they are way too hard for me,but got good grip,but they are too hard for me and give no dampening, so I replaced them with ESI Extra Chunky green grips in is a pretty good match.
- this bike really need a chain guide. If you ride hard or jump you will need a chain guide.
- 3 chain rings for a trail bike is not optimal, the problem is over big roots or obstacles you can hit it some time times, and as bigger the chainring is as more chance there is for you to crash or damage the ring.
- The chain-stay protector does not work well, the chain will hit the zip-ties, and they will snap so the protector will be loose and will scratch the paint,and because it does not cover the whole chain-stay the inside of the chainstay will get hit by the chain, I replaced the protector with a old inner-tube instead.
- chain slap on the Front Dérailleur: which crapes of the pant and make visible scrapes on the puller arm.
Upgrades I did:
First I upgraded to StraightlineDeFacto pedals, But later I switched to Pedalling Catalyst pedals, which improved my riding greatly.
Shimano XT M8000 Shadow+ GS(medium cage) Rear Derailleur
Shimano XT M8000 11-46 cassette
I later Switched over the XT to the trek 6300 and upgraded to XTR M9000 shifter and Box One rear dérailleur, which greatly improved the shifting.
- Hope bolt seat post clamp ,as a quick release clamp just ads weight and is not necessary for me ,it also looks great.
- Race Face Narrow Wide chainring 36T 104mm
- BB:Race Face CINCH 41 x 92 x 30mm BB92 (PRESS FIT)
- Maxxis High Roller 2 2.3
- Crank :Race Face Turbine Sinch 30mm axle 175mm ,are noticeably stiffer ,there is no flex ,but on one of the bikes I switched to Atlas cranks.
- Race Face CINCH 36t Narrow Wide
- chain guide: MRP AMg V2
- Race Face Turbine Dropper post with 1x remote
- Hope Tech Enduro – Pro 4 which was a huge improvement, the stiffness, and the excellent hubs. The freehub is fully compatible with 11 speed, the freehub is wider so it puts the cassette in the perfect position, so I can back pedal without chain drop.
- Hope floating rotors 160 rear 180 front
KMC X11-SL Silver 11 (replaces the first upgrade chain upgrade which was Shimano CN-HG700 11 Chain)
TRP Spyke Dual piston mechanical brakes
- Race Face Atlas Ø35 50mm & Race FaceSixc Ø35 800mm which are perfect fit for me,but switching to 50 mm stem made the steering roe aggressive/twitchy, not more than I can handle, but the fit was perfect.
Flickr albums of the 2 bikes:
after 2 seasons the bearing in the chain stay worn out,(by worn out I mean they did not turn smoothly and they made noise even when I repacked them with grease,but they had not noticeable play in them) so I had to change them,So I did,but even though I have had repacked them with grease once, I think I should have done it sooner.
I have been riding with the second bike in -11 degrees, and on wet rainy days, and all kinds of weather, I had to repack the bearings after few weeks of winter riding, but the bearings were running smooth, So I guess I will just have tocheckk the bearings more often.
Videos of me riding:
Some street/Urban mountain biking:
Bad selection of components and too flexible frame make this a bad choice.
I need stiffer frame & stiffer fork.
replacing the tyre is the first thing you have to do.
If you ride very steep downhills a, A dropper post will definitely be the next upgrade.
the bad choices of components, and flexy frame, is Disappointing, the must be some flex in a frame or it will snap, but this is too much in one place.
the bike rides well, very stable no matter how I rode it,but ,trek did not do a good job on selecting all the components, the drive train is outdated, The wheels are too flexible and get out of true way too easily, triple chainrings is outdated, and the crank arms have too much flex. In my opinion, most riders do not need triple chainring setup, wider range cassette just replaces the Front RD so there is no point in having a front Rd.