Review: Shimano Deore XT M8000 with Race Face Narrow wide

On 10speed Formula/Bontrager Freehub:

If I use the 42T cog on the cassette the chain will fall off when back-pedalling, but when I shift up to 37T cog the chain stays in place no matter how hard I pack pedal.

On Hope Pro 4 freehub:

the Pro 4 free hub, is 11 speed compatible, which means it’s wider, and comes with a spacer,and with 11speed cassette, the  cassette is closer to the frame/more outwards to the right, which gives a better chain line, so the backpedalling issues is gone,Unless you backpedal at unrealistic speed,then it will fall off,but I have done 180 U turns in 1stgear(42T) and the chain never fell off.

So if your rear hub is compatible with a wider freehub,you should get one.

Huge noise reduction when riding:

The first thing I noticed after I upgraded to 1×11 is that all the slapping ,banging and scraping noises are gone from my bike.25185797391_0cfdb76e37_o

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The narrow wide chain-ring will make more sound than the triple chain-ring,  but when ring in rough terrain or jumping, the noise is a lot less than a conventional triple ring set-up would make.

With this set up i used uncut CN-HG701-11 chain.

Shimano Deore XT M8000 I-Spec B shifter:

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There is big  difference in the force needed to press to press the small trigger(up shift),but I got used to it after days ,and it did not feel as hard to press, and I like the shifter feel,I get less accidental shifts this way.

The change in gear is instant like promised.

The possibility to shift by bending you finger and do a finger kick motion,which you can’t do with Sram shifters.

(like this(https://youtu.be/7HvJma35fZA) to push the lever/trigger is gone, as the Shimano Deore 10 Spd had.But for me this is a acceptable compromise.

But there will be no accidental shifts

Down shifting:

  • smooth lever-action.
  • There is huge difference in the force required to push the triggers between SL-M610 &  M8000 , so if you plan to upgrade a kids bike you might want to let the kid try it out first,but for the youngest I recommend getting SL-M610 or something similar.
  • you can shift down 4 gears

The I-Spec B shifter will have rotational play,because of the pin system, it’s not avoidable.

The screw came with a lot of  Blue thread-locker,so needed to try few times until I finally got it tight without loose shifter.

But the adjustment screws did not,so you have to buy thread locker for them, I used Loctite 243.

The rear Derailleur:

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11-26T M8000 Cassette  & RD m8000 with original link & trek ABP hanger 

 

Pros:

  • A lot stiffer Clutch system, which is good.
  • Very smooth,fast shifting movement.
  • Esy to service, as long as you got magnetic bowl, and are careful with the round seal fo the spring assambly.

 

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Race Face Narrow wide:

The chain will not fall off no matter how hard I ride, if it falls off you must be crashing really hard.

There is some drag when pedalling but this is not noticeable when riding, the chain still wants to be on the ring for about a half of a second, but this is impossible to avoid with Narrow Wide.

If you want video proof that narrow wide works watch this video by Seth’s Bike Hacks

Me unboxing the 36T chainring

Down 50 degrees stairs test:

Steep stairs

set up used in test: 2010 trek 6300 1 x10 36-11T cassette Shimano SLX Shadow Plus, with 36T Race Face Narrow Wide chain ring.The chain dropped when it was in 24 Tooth cog, but when I tried in 21 cog it stayed on. Even on stairs that were not that steep probably 40 degrees,the chain fell off.

Pros of 1×11:

  • You get all the gears you need if you just select the right chairing for you.
  • a lot quieter drive train
  • dropping the chain is rare unless you ride in low gears down steep stairs.
  • No front chain rigns to deal with
  • easier to clean the drive train,less dirt & mud on the drive train
  • if you want to sue a chain guide, you can use a single ring chain guide which will be more secure,and look better
  • if you use a wide range cassette with a 9T cog you can get the a pretty high gear as you could with triple rings,but with 11-42 with 36T cassette I get a pretty good range,but once I get on the 1km flat straights I will run out of gears

Cons of 1×11: There are no real cons riding 1×11 it will have faster wearing cassette and chain of course,but that’s not a reason to not upgrade. the 37 and 42 cogs are the fastest wearing cogs, because of the bigger chain angle.

the cassette & chainring wore out at the end of the season like it did with 10×3, maybe few weeks sooner wear. I don’t have to shift as often and skip so many gear so often,so I get less side to side wear on the chain,by using 1×11,so the chain growth will be less.

If i changed the chain,a lot earlier, the cassette and ring would have lasted longer,but I had no spare chains,but I have a stock of chains now.

The Rear derailleur cage will have visible wear, with 1x  setup,because of the chain line the chain will hit the plates,but its not a big deal.

 

I absolutely recommend Both the Xt m8000 drivetrain and the Race Face Narrow Wide single chaining.

If you are not sure which gear ratio you need:http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/

Flickr Album: Shimano DeoreXT M8000

Flickr Album: Race Face

Fanatec csr wheel, csr elite pedals, csr shifters: 1 year review

the table clamp:

the clamp is have a bad construction there are 2 pins on every clam there are 2 clamps the pins are not secured in any way so too much vibration and they can pushed out after you have used the wheel for a while.

but fanatec have a clubsport table clamp with angle adjustment. all current Fanatec wheels can be mounted to it, and its made of 100% metal.

but if you got a desk with a sharp edge otherwise the wheel will be too loose, but on a desk that have that like a office desk it will be stable, but it’s like that one every wheel. its nothing wrong with it, its impossible to make it worn with a table like that,

like this plate have a edge that fiuts the csr but not if it’s too round or have patterns on it.

something like this will do. the wheel should not move if you clamp it to a table liek the image under, youst look at yourube videos.

the shifter tube thing is flimsy this is not a good construction,, the wheel rim flex.

but the metal tubes make the clamp hold the wheel better.

the is play in the wheel, so i can press the wheel to one side and up,down to one side to the other and so on, it moves more and more,its makes more and more noise because the  plastic parts  are move  more and more. i have recently done some drifting in Assetto Corsa and the wheel was bending mutch, specially the top part. and the sides made clicking sounds.

the dpad is bad, it moves around much when the ffb kicks in.

or when you turn fast., because of that it gets pushed down so you can’t have anything mapped in the game on the dpad.

the t500rs wheel have one stronger motor

, that is stronger than the 3 on the fanatec csr,you can find more about that on the web.

and yes i got the alcentara falling off issue.i playederd Assetto Corsa and rFactor2, if you think about modding there is no point in doing that, better to get a t500rs and mod it.

fanatec have static pedals to mount on the clubsport base,you can maunt things to the wheel base  on the clubsport but not on t500rs or the csr wheel we cant do that.

i dont underestand why there is a limiter that limits the steering to 900 deg fanatec desided to have it 900 only, some street cars have more than 900 deg so it would be nice to have that.

like some lutuses. all of the cars listed here ahve over 900 deg of rotation:

Lotus Exige Scura 2009 ,Lotus Exige S Roadster2013…….

i think this was a mistake to do only 900 on the clubsport wheel, but all the other stuff on it is no mistake,

many people cant deside between t500rs and clubsport wheel.

N on the t500rs it has 1080 degrees, i want to simulate all the cars in the game as realistically as possible,

the msterials used for the clubsport wheel base are a good choise,

the quick reease is a good choise.  the ewheel it sel.

both wheels cost as mutch as a dishwasher.

i think selling t500rs with pedals only is a mistake,

the pedals should have a adapter or usb cable so it could be used seperatly,

http://f-wheel.com/forza-motorsport-csr-wheel


cons:

  • cant adjust ffb in driver but you can onthe wheel it self,its not nice to play rfactor 2 but rfactor 2 have car specific ffb setting otion so possible to turn it up as all sim games have
  • bad d pad ver flimsy so activets the mapped function for the pad not nice when you race. so basicly usless
  • bad clamp
  •  no static pedals
  •  no ability to put real wheels on without extreme modding,
  • alcanatera falls off
  • matte coating falls off
  • one small fan for cooling the wheel base
  • the wheel rim flex

pros

  • ergonomic wheel feels good
  • can hard mount the wheel

the CSR elite pedals

CSR Elite Pedals

Fanatec csr elite pedals, the are ok, i had no issues,if something gets loose jsut tighten the hex cap screws , but his is normal. Do you have ticky brake?, take it apart use bicycle lube, i used weldtite cycle oil, its cheap.

i saw a video where thomas from fanatec used motorex dry bicycle lube on the clubsport pedals.

the pedal-set will slide on a wooden or similar floor surface., so its best you have them taped to the floor, and have them touching the wall., or hard-mount it if you have a simracing cockpit.

worth the cash?:  fanatec clubsport pedals cost little bit but the clutch will me more realistic but not as realistic as you want, then you need to go for gigh-end pedals

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3489955/CSR_Elite_Pedals_Unboxing.html

pros:

  • can mount custom pedal plates
  • adjust pedal plate hight
  • load-cell for brake
  •  stuff that need to be made of metal is made of metal
  • can hard mount the pedals sett or take them off separately to mount on your rig

cons:

  • places where the dust is hiding, and without a vacumecleaner or som,e brushes its hard to clean, the dust is gonna get on the laodcell and in between the laodcell and the braking mechanism so i used a allen key to remove it when servicing the pedals.
  • there is play in the pedals
  • clutch is not realistic

Csr shifters : they are garbage

CSR Shifter Set US

can’t be used as stand alone, but you can probably mod them,i can’t.

if you have a motion simulator,the sequential shifter will shift,because of vibration., even if you dont use motion simulator it will happened, if you drift,the spring is too light.

a shifter should have mutch stiffer spring.

to use both sfhiters you need 2 controlelr mapping setups, and disconect oen shifter and conenct the other one thsi is not a big deal for me, but but the next csr wheelmust be improved, or maybe just discontinue the csr.

is it worth the cash?:  no!!!

Fanatec clubsport sq v1.0 shifter

cons:

Just few small cons that are not very important:

rubber grips wear out,glue on rubber grips is bad,i taken the rubber grips from the csr wheel and put it on the clamp,,it grips better and does nto slide off.

Fanatec logo wears off fast

inside fanatec clubsport shifter sequential knob

My support experience has been good.

I had issues with some gears not working properly after a while,Fanatec cleaned and greased the shifter, and it works even smoother than the day I got it out of the box.

this is how the shifter knob looks like inside(when you see is CNC aluminium residue,not a big problem but it should not come like this,but i guess only few came like this.
a good review.spot on, but the only thing I would like to add is that the rubber under the clamp wear off fast,i taken the grips from my CSR wheel off and put under the clamp plate and grips the desk better.

Pros: see videos:

https://www.fanatec.com