Cane Creek Crank Preloader – Review

I have used it since summer 2018.

There is a huge difference is how smooth the Cane Creek collar spins vs the original preload collar from Race Face, making it easy to adjust the preload. the original Race Face collar with a tiny weak wood screw. But the Collar from Cane Creek was a big improvement, to the Robust Race Face Cranks, they served me well and took some abuse, but the collar and screw always annoyed me. So far I haven’t found anything negative about it.

Cane Creek Preload Collar on Race Face ccrank_5506
Cane Creek Preload Collar on Race Face ccrank_5506
Crish King - Race Face Turbine- Cane Creek Preload Collar_2857
Chris King Threadfit30_4511
Chris King Thread fit 30_20180927_113708


Cane Creek Preload collar on Race Face Atlast crank_5499
Cane Creek Preload collar on Race Face Atlast crank_5497

The Titanium bolt bolt has also stayed secure for months, but I had to adjust the preload, it doesn’t loosen up fast like on the original Race Face preload collar, it can stay secure for months, so it’s more secure than the original preload collar.

The bolt has no signs of wear in months of use, which was not the case for the wood screw on original preload collar, which rounded off after fast.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0349/7357/products/canecreek_20cinch_x1024.jpg?v=1550619242

The gold thread ring is not used for Race Face cranks, but for Sram cranks.

Cane Creek Preload collar on Race Face Atlast crank_5503
Crank arm_20180927_110352

Flickr Photo Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmi3PwY3

Product Page: https://www.canecreek.com/product/crank-preloader/

I got mine from https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/cane-creek-alloy-preload-collar-with-ti-bolt-for-30mm-spindles

Advertisements

Shimano Avilio FC-M410 review

I have only used this bike as spare bike in the summer, but I used the bike one and a half winters, the same thing happen as the Acera cranks, the square taper hole had damage, it did not show as much as this bike was not used as much,I noticed it before any huge play, as on the Acera crank there was damage to the corners, there were some scratches and small crushed metal,but I also noticed the UN26 bottom bracket was worn out, it was barely used, just used few days, they lasted quite long before, But I did not check the play for play in the bb.

These cranks are about as flexible as the Acera cranks.

these cranks don’t work well with 1x set up as the offset of the middle ring is too far outwards, so without spacers, the drivetrain will be very noisy.

So, of course, these cranks and BB were removed, I can’t have components like these on a bike I ride because I will destroy them, For me, it’s not saving money, but wasting money & time, Only High-end components for me!

These cranks came with triple rings.

 

Shimano Acera FC-M361 Long term review-Revised – Ridden to destruction

35395054834_c97965866b_o

4th August I posted the review, but Since Then the crank was completely useless.

Time of use:

I have ridden this crank at least one season, but after I got my new bikes in 2015, I only rode this crank few weeks and days each year.

Too Flexible

On my trail bikes, I have been using Race Face Turbine Cinch cranks, and they are very stiff, but the Acera cranks are not, it’s noticeable while track standing or on technical climbs.

When track standing I can feel the cranks flexing, which I have not experienced while riding on Hallow XT cranks.

So far no damage to the threads for the pedals, like on the M522 cranks.

But these cranks are clearly not good enough for me.

The cranks are quite flexible,

I destroyed the cranks.

 

Failed Shimano Acera FC-M361_0401

Picture showing the left crank arm with crushed metal, the damages on the corners is also quite visible.

 

A few Days ago the crank looked like it was in perfect order, but I took the bike for a short side-walk ride, and after doing a inspection on the bike  I noticed  I managed to bend the spider leg on the front/ to the right of the crank. after a closer look Isaw the square taper hole in the crank had tiny alloy ”spaghetti” & when sliding on the crank on the tapered square axle I noticed that there was a difference in resistance on each angle, might be due to wear caused by too flexible crank,I am about 75kg with all the gear on.

A few days later crank arm to loose after about 14 km ride, with some bike-path and some light xc trails, I torqued used Loctite 243 bolt thread, I torqued it to spec, and I left it to cure, the next day I checked the cranks as I was Already working on bike, I noticed creaking sound from the BB area, so I inspåected it, I cocked each crank arm in all directrions,I noticed the left was making the noise, I then removed the bolt, and inspected it further, by rocking the crank arm, doing this I managed to take it off using my bare hands

I abused them but not much:

I have jumped the bike with these cranks, dropped of concrete walls.

The hardest abuse these cranks got must be the time I landed on a stair step, with the pedals after jumping.