So far this is just a quick review, I have only used these products for few rides. so here is what I think so far.
When I saw it 25% off on black week sale at bikeshop.no , I went for it, I had measured the the length so I thought it might fit, and it did with room to spare.
As you can see there is enough room to secure the rear light.
The remote was way too slippery, I had to use grip tape/anti slip tape.
Minimal play, so the stanchion stays a lot cleaner than the E13 dropper post, which was a greasy mess after evry single ride, which is not the case with BikeYoke Divine
light enough lever action, I don’t feel like I need lighter actuation, the Revive has that, but for me Divine offers great actuation.
light and easy to drop all the way down.
low stack height
Barrel cable clamp at dropper post is a flawed clamping method. I rode 3 rides in with #bikeyokedivine I thought this method of wire attachment was flawed, and to day I experienced what I suspected would happen, the bolt at the barrel cable clamp loosened the wire slipped, this method is useless @bikeyoke I suggest you make the system work like this: attach the wire in the hook run it trough the housing and end up at the lever, these sizes most multi tool don’t have and having to take the seat post out during evry single ride will be annoying, yes I tightened tight enough and used Loctite 243. Now I will have to try it the way I mentioned. This way I don’t have to take the dropper post out just have one the bolt on the remote to tighten, which is easy to access.
So far it looks promising.
So far it seems to be one of the best options on the market.
But I will update you on my experience with it long term.
When I first posted the review in the April of 2019 I have used this dropper post for few months, but I was feeling horrible most of January & February so did not put it to as much use as I hoped for, but also used it some in January, and trough march.
But then eventually many months of use use on it, many climbs, dropped the saddle many times, did wheelies, crashed, so it got put trough a lot that a dropper post needs to handle.
The remote version 17J V10SS :
For better clearance for the cable for dropper post I flipped Timber Bell.
Some shots before installing housing and wire
Here it is with the Grip Tape it comes with:
The 17J V10SS remote on the bike
The remote came with grip tape already installed but I installed rougher grip tape, the grip tape that came with it showed slight signs of wear, but I prefer the rougher grip tape.
Travel can’t be adjusted.
The collar & head is way too high wasting space.
After few weeks of riding the stanchion got a slight discolouration about a cm below the top it is where when the it’s fully down, it’s I side the collar, I am not sure why this happen, but it’s barely visible, and try to get it to show on photo.
You have to have weight on the middle to drop it, but not a problem, if done like that it drops smoothly, it’s faster than Turbine dropper, so light feel drop, this is not surprising at all nor is this a major flaw.
The slot for the brass key holding the head straight is too wide so the head rotates few degrees, this could be felt when riding, especially if doing wheelies There is also up & down play, forward backward rocking play, so a lot more play than the Turbine, which only had side to side rotational play.
The remote has a flimsy plastic cover, it does not cover it properly, it’s not an essential part anyway.
you might be on a ride and the the bolt holding the head secure might loose causing unbearable movement, which means you have to take the seat off, and tighten this gets annoying it will happen often.
The top of the stanchion gets very greasy after a long ride with dropping the saddle a lot, a lot of up and down, combined with rocking play back and forth.
Clamp head saddle rail bolts can get loose, and might undo enough for the saddle to slip back, I think it’s due to rapid temperature changes & the loads, this is what happens when you take the bike out from the warm home out and ride for few minutes in subzero temps, this has happen with the Bontrager rigid post too, also the Race Face Turbine post.
When I got home I had to fix this, and yes I had on Loctite 243, but this eventually happens anyway, Loctite eventually needs reapplying. So a multi tool is a must, even if everything on the bike has been checked, i had to do this every time, but of course how much it loosened varied.
But I haven’t had issues like this on the Renthal Apex stem, but with Atlas Stem I had to Check it before and after every ride, and during ride to be sure bolt’s did not get loose and the handle bar were spinning. also I got issue with Hope Tech Seat post clamp & Shimano brake levers too. the bolts might undo enough for the saddle to slip back, but these are side effects rapid temperature change, shrinking things slightly, of course different materials will be effected at different rates. You just have to expect this and tighten it down when you are out and check suspension too see if pressures are right, because it can drop a lot, so if this post was a air post it would need to to work with something like 10psi drop or increase, but as this is a mechanic dropper post you don’t have to worry about the pressure.
Once when greasing the collar and screwing on the collar there was resistance, I might have had too much grease, it turned out to be the dust wiper seal which has was skewed, and got worse when threading the collar on, so I had to take the collar off, and hammer it in using a bearing press block. I don’t know why this happen, but I suspect it might be the play in the post, the front to back rocking.
The lever has nice ergonomics.
No issues with the head snapping, cracking, but I haven’t landed huge jumps and slammed my butt on it, nor brutal impacts, but I did have few crashes where the saddle hit the ground.
Easy to install.
The Torx bolts in the seat clamp have not worn out after several weeks of use, it looks promising.
The barrel adjuster on the lever for wire tension has not snapped or bent yet, so it looks promising.
The barrel adjuster has a nice wheel to turn, it makes it easy to adjust the tension even with one finger
The remote has a well-designed clamp, there are 2 threaded holes for inward-outward adjustment to get the lever positioned perfectly.
The barrel adjuster is very fragile, it can easily be bent or kinked, It’s likely this will happen in a crash if the housing forces it to bend, but it’s so weak you don’t need a crash for it to fail, I never crashed so badly that the barrel adjuster would bend.