Revised Long-term review: ESI Chunky extra chunky silicone grips

Here is an improved review, since the last time I posted a review on these,

I have used Esi grips since 11.2015 until January 2018, so I am very familiar with them.  But now finally I revised the review, new pictures, improved text.  I wish I did it sooner but did not get around to doing I until now.

I put them thru its paces, I rode with them in -11c to summer heat, in most weather conditions.

I went from hard and too small diameter grips to Easton MTB grips, which was torture to ride with so I had to get something better, but ESI Grisp were just a temporary solution.

I went for the 34mm diameter grips, they fit me perfectly.

I have been using these grips since 2015, they definitely work, but not for long, So I had to swap them out for a fresh set after few weeks.


  • Shock absorbing
  • feels great without gloves
  • 10 colour choices, I got green fits my fuel-ex perfectly.
  • stays in place, does not slide off.
  • reduces hand numbness – fatigue- arm pump
  • easy to clean with a hard brush
  • not effected much by the subzero temperatures, they work in the summer heat and in the freezing winter.
  • they can be used in the winter, I have ridden few days with -10  and more, with the grips, without any issues.


  • not as grippy as rubber grips.
  • but they only last me 4 weeks, they become too soft and lose the shock absorption, and at that point, they are torture to ride, so they are expensive in longterm. In the  In the winter I use 2.1 Suomi Gazza Extrem studded tyres with 4psi higher pressure than my summer setup with Maxxis 2.3 tyres, which becomes torture to ride with once the grips lose the shock absorption feature, first comes the loss of shock absobtion then the grip becoems more fragile and gets ripped apart easier and easier, then they begin to spin slowly, but this happens over the course of smany weeks, with higher wolume tyres I could ride them for bit longer, but not with my current winter setup, it’s torture, so I had to swap to fresh grips every 4th week, which cost way too much.
  • birds can damage the grips like here, after riding with them more than a week after the bird attacking them there are holes so deep I can see the handlebar, so if you crash hard you will rip the grips part.



I can’t recommend these grips.

I recommend looking into other options instead.

The end caps are junk,  you can replace them with proper alloy end caps instead.



Putting them on & off:

The best way to install the grips is by using a compressor.

here are some great videos:


I put the grip under running hot tap water to heat expand it or fill the sink up with hot tap water, but a using compressor instead is much easier.

What you should NOT do:

DON’T USE A SCREWDRIVER TO PUT THEM ON AND OFF!!! It will damage the grips on the inside and the grip can rip apart.

Don’t use hairspray, even if the bike mechanic tells you to, it might stink, and make the grip slipperier on the inside.  it’s dangerous stuff to breathe in.



TRP ML800 Spyke mechanical brake levers – 4 months review

Marzocchi Remote  & TRP Spyke lever_0289

The Spyke logo on the lever blade actually gives more grip as it’s engraved.

The Spyke logo on the lever blade actually gives more grip as it’s engraved, but the painted on Spyke logo wears off after few rides.

The brake levers combined with the Spyke caliper results in a rougher lever feel than Any hydraulic brakes I have tried so far,
this is due to the return spring in the caliper, it can really be felt through the lever body & lever, the return spring in the lever can also get rough, so you need to lube the moving parts in the lever to avoid squeaking or other noises,


  • Rech adjustment, the reach adjustment allows the lever to be adjusted to kids hands.
  • the reach adjustment is on the lever and not on the lever body as on Ml930&ML940 levers this means the reach adjustments much more reliable, the lever stays in the set adjustment, flex in the lever body won’t affect it, but on the ML930
  • ML930 lever

    & ML940 flex effects the adjustment, due to reach adjustment on lever body.

  • barrel adjuster it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.


  • up and down play in the lever blade
  • No hinged mount, so you have to remove the grips, but for me this is not a deal-breaker.
  • Flex in the lever body when braking hard, which also is present in the ML930 levers.
  • the use of rivet for wire puller was a bad choice, it causes fast wear, and more play, than when they were new, and it already had a lot of play, In my opinion, bearings or bushings would be a better solution. after some weeks of use the lever made some noises, due to the wear, I had to lube the moving parts, it kept getting worse, I continued to lube it regularly
  • flimsy barrel adjusters, they feel nice to grab and adjust but the play is huge.

Product page:


The reliable reach adjustment, means I will use the Spyke lever instead of ML930.

But it’s not perfect, it has flaws, the rivets in the lever pullers for example.

A mix of these two levers, with the best elements, plus bearing would make a pretty good lever, but nothing like that exist yet to my knowledge.

Review:BBB BSD-04 Anatomic Race-Black saddle- Uncomfortable

ncathis saddle has more cons than pros, it’s basicly butt torture for me.

the plastic on the sides and the plastic part that hold the rails will be pushed into your buttcheaks and will hurt when sitting on it.

i felt the saddle right where my butt bones/ischial tuberosities.

its very unconfortable saddle, the onyl reason i fot the saddle is because hte bontrager ssr saddle on my 3900 broke.

i now sue a Bontrager race RL wich flexes more and is thinenr btu still cmfortable.


  • pretty durable
  • the front plate under the saddle did not breake
  • no screws popped out.
  • the grip,but can’t say how long it lasts becuase i got a new saddle as soon as i could