I will keep you updated on how these perform, and if I destroy them or not.
Make sure to apply Loctite to the threads for the reach adjustment, the lever will come out of adjustment quite fast without doing so.
I noticed the paint on the bleed screw was wearing off after on the first ride.
I installed Tesa Anti Slip Tape on all controls including the brake levers, no more slippery brake levers.
A closer look:
I replaced the Stock Resin pads with Shimano ICE-TECH J04C metallic pads, for longevity and stopping power.
The narrower clamp allows closer shifter placement, which is what I was looking for. I ran a TRP Spyke lever for months but it did not allow me the perfect shifter position, so I had to choose best brake leverage or better shifting ergonomics, but with Shimano M6000 I don’t have to choose.
- Ergonomic lever blade, they got it right. it’s better than the TRP Spyke & M930 levers.
- I like the light lever feel, there is enough lever trow so it’s easy to control the braking with minimal fatigue, I can’t feel any friction or play in the lever.
- You can use XTR finned pads.
- The reach adjustment is easier to access than the previous model (M615).
- Minimal play in the lever, there is maybe 1 mm play or less.
- The housing kinks easily
- The housing scratches very easily, after installing zip ties and removing zip ties I noticed the hose was quite scratched up.
- Play in the hinge causing the lever to rock back and forths the handlebar.The plastic cover is concerning, it’s not so exposed as other components.
- The rear brakes i got had too little fluid, so the pads were too far from the rotor, I installed one rear brake first, and and it felt wrong, I tried another brake, and same problem but it was slightly firmer, I haven’t tried all of the brakes I got, but I will have to fill them with more fluid.
March & April 2019
I had issues with air in the system and spongy lever feel, and inconsistent braking power, I cleaned the rotor, pads, sanded them, the brake were bled to perfection, I rode and the air bubble came back, the same feeling, the inconsistent braking power, and spongy feeling, and pads getting glazed.
I think this is due to worn seals, causing leaks contaminating the pads, letting air in.
Seals wear out, and need to be changed, that’s normal, but they don’t come with spares, and you cna’t buy spares, so you have to contact Shimano to get spares I think, unless they will send you a new brake.
Work in progress:
Shimano M6000 leak, first brake was leaking in the calipers, and this one after few months leaks near the olive, hose.
So I cut the hose and installed new olive, but it was still leaking.
and the calipers were leaking, I was sure at this time they were actually leaking, completely soaked in mineral oil.
here you can see the aftermath of leaking pistons
you might not notice it but the backside of the pads are completely covered in mineral oil.
caliper,pads were soaked, the piston has chipped.
pads contaminated abusing the rotor, I had to sand the rotors, install new brakes, with fresh pads and sanded rotors, it works now, but I seem to destroy shimano brakes quite fast, way too easily. I need something that fits me better, need proper reach adjustment that does not affect the actuation/power, which these do, so I had to compromise so I’ve chosen a between spot that is usable, but not perfect, I guess if I had it perfectly adjusted it would not abuse my fingers as much.
Because I was sick and feeling so bad a lot I have’t used these brakes as much as I would want to, first brake leaked, so I replaced the rear, but now both leaked, so I had to replace them. I still have working set on the Trek 6300, and one front brake that’s unused. If I get leaking I can swap to those, if it happens on those I am out of working brakes, I need to contact a dealer and try warranty.
I will have to send the brakes in for warranty, but I am tired of leaking brakes and these issues, so I might need to stick to mechanical brakes, or upgrade to a better brake, and have spare parts, so I can rebuild it.