The non drive side/ left side has an egg shaped threaded piece which the bolt threads into, this eliminates the possibility of ruining the clamp, via the bolt, as this part could be replaced, but I haven’t seen it sold desperately.
I bought these in august 2017, and used them since to now, 2019.
The bolt has worn significantly, quite fast. I have two of these so I had to switch I did not want to round the bolt off, and end up with loose seat post.
the hex key does does not fit as tight as I wish it did, I have tried Park Tool Hex keys and Teng Tools bits which are even more precise than Park Tools Hex (Bondhus) keys. I noticed it was not good tolerances between the tool first when it the first use, with a park tool multi tool (Bondhus). I don’t know who makes the bolts.
Bolt can loosen up fast in big temp changes. Even with Loctite 243 the bolt has loosened up every time I took the bike out from the room temperature indoors to cold winter outside, few minutes and it was loose, so if you plan to ride with extreme temperature changes and ride hard it will eventually come loose and seat post will spin, this is also be common issue with seat rail clamps on many dropper post, or seat posts. Of course how fast it will depend on material combo and load, vibrations it gets, also had issue with loose bolts on Shimano brake levers clamps, and race face stems, but for secure stem Renthal Apex is has worked well for me, but for seat post clamps I don’t know which are the best, this was my first aftermarket seat post clamp.
I haven’t had any other issues with the clamp, the bolt turns smoothly
the bolt turns smoothly
it fits precisely on the seat tube.
Lovely Laser etching
even surfaces, well made, no sharp edges, but it has a tiny texture to it, which also can bee seen, which some might like, you can clearly see it’s CNC machined.
I bought them in 2016, Since February 2017 I added a lot of pictures and improved the review.
I put the 3 wheel sets to more some more abuse, and a lot of hard riding, urban mtb and trail riding, and they survived.
I have put it through harsh riding in all different weather and temperatures.
ca 75kg with all gear on.
Aa the temperature decreases seals shrink, wheels go out of true faster, but this will happen on any wheelset.
So far I have been riding down to -11 Celsius.
I have been riding below freezing temperatures, few weeks, I noticed the sound coming from the rear hub was dampened, and sounded like there was water inside, because there was water inside, the plastic seal shrinks when its so cold, which allows water/melting show to come inside, which happen on a -6 Celsius ride. But it’s not possible to make a tighter fitting seal, so I recommend to put grease between the seal and the hub freehub body, which will give more protection after I have applied grease to the seal, I have not had any more issues with water in the freehub. but don’t make a mess, clean up the access to avoid attracting dirt.
I also put grease in the rim holes and on the spoke nipples, provides prevent corrosion.
After a long time of riding the front hub did not need service.
The wheel stays quite true, but when it it goes off center to the left both on front and rear, but I regurally check the wheels, so the tention is good and I keep them qutie true and centered, I have 3 sets in 29. I bought a set for my 6300 too.
provides a true wheel for longer than 28 like Bontrager duster.
Hope made a noticeably stiffer wheelset than Bontrager duster 29er when going fast in berms or landing jumps, or in general hard riding, it really makes a huge difference
High-quality brass spoke nipples, accurate size, so easy to work with, unlike the nipples on Bontrager Duster wheelset. There is no twisting or bending or crushing or cracking of the nipples when truing the wheel.
It has an almost idiot proof design, it’s very easy to take apart, I love the freehub system, there is no too required to take off the freehub.
10 & 11 speed compatible, hope provides a spacer for 10 to 11 speed cassettes, and the freehub body is wider than a 10 speed freehub boy, so the cassette is further to the right/closer to the frame, which results in a better chain line, for 11 speed,and no chain drop when backpedalling, unless you backpedal using your hands at unrealistic speed/rpm, I have been doing backward 180’s without any issues.
The wheels stayed true for a long time & no damage to the rim was done, after 3 weeks of hard trail riding, and some hard street riding, but after those 3 months it needed a quick retention, but it was a piece of cake.
the freehub is not too loud.
end caps for skewer or 12mm & 15mm axles
very easy to do maintenance/service no springs jumping out or tools needed(not counting the cassette tool)
I managed to get a small dent in 2 spoke nipples, but it did not affect the threads, might have been a big stone that hit them, the dent was only one side so I could get the spoke tool on.
not the highest engagement, there are other options on the market that provide better engagement, Industry Nine, Chris King, and the king of engagement Onyx due to the clutch, it provides infinite engagement, but they all cost a lot more. the engagement is ok, it does not feel awkward like the cheaper Shimano hubs do.
Cassettes with separate cogs Shew up the freehub body, So after some weeks or months, I have to file down the bumps to get the cassette on & off easily.The damage you can see on splines is caused by the cassette pitting into them, If you ignore this for too long you might struggle to get the cassette off, So I used 100 sandpaper to smoother the surface. I want a stronger Freehub body, I haven’t tried Steel Freehub body or XD driver yet. Some other brands claim to have strong enough free hubs to not wear like this, but I haven’t tried any of them. but I used these since 2016 so that’s quite a long time, but they will probably last me few more years.
on my 26er wheel-set: After few short rides Shimano XT 11-46T cassette:
A closer look at the Pro 4 hub:
Springs eventually wear out:
this is to be expected, it’s normal, springs eventually fail.
Shewed up Freehub body:
After 1 meter drop with too low tyre pressure: we all make mistakes
A good thing is that I learn from my mistakes and never do them again.
one of the rear wheels got a small dent, I ridden with studded Suomi WXC 300 tyres, 30 psi was too low in turns because of squirming, but I later added 10 psi.
If can, of course, bends it back.
The sumemr of 2018 I dented the rear wheel on wooden stairs, due to valve stem loosening up:
I fixed the rim in few seconds, there was Loctite on the threads & tightened with pliers, but it still had to be regularly checked I should have done it earlier, that was my fault. I rode up wooden stairs, hit the staircase, and the tyre got a hole near the bead.
which I managed to fix by letting the tyre stay still overnight with 20psi with the hole down.
it sealed up. I had Orange seal, but I filled it up with more as it was spraying after the hit.
Hope offers a wheelset that can take major abuse, for a cost-effective price, But it’s not the ultimate package. the freehub body should be stronger.
If you get this wheelset on sale it’s a good deal.
But I want to try other hubs like Onyx with more engagement for my next bike.