By the time kids reach the 8 to 10 age- range, they are truly becoming capable of putting in some substantial miles on the trail with Mom and Dad. 2,395 more words
I think it’s fitting that this is taking the place of my annual NAHBS post. This post is about idiots making decisions, marketing of garbage, and what happens on a ride when something that is supposed to work, doesn’t. 528 more words
I have been through several cassettes and put it through its paces.
Due to the design of the cogs, the transition from each cog is excellent. The chain stays well in place with unrealistic fast backpedalling, where the sun race cassettes would drop the chain, my bike has hope pro 4hub, Absolute Black 34t.oval chainring, this but the chain at an optimal angle for the biggest cog, so this clearly shows the sun race cassette performs worse with backpedalling. As mentioned in many other reviews, the jump to the 46t cog is too big, it messes up your cadence, but I got used to it.
The XT cassette has quite stiff cogs when the chainstay wore out on my 2014 fuel ex the extra side to side movement combined with bearing misalignment caused the cogs to bend, but this will not be an issue on a bike that does not have an extreme side to side movement or bearing misalignment issues. So, in conclusion, the cassette performed well.
The lever body has visible flex while braking, But I can’t notice it while braking.
TRP offers a carbon version of this lever, which is ML940.
- better ergonomics than Spyke lever, it got a rounder profile, not as great as Shimano’s shape.
- Excellent barrel adjuster, it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.
- Lighter than the ML800 Spyke levers
- Hinged mount for easy removal
- Rech adjustment so these levers will work well for a kids bike.
- I have these levers on both of my fuel ex 29ers, and they the levers on both survived crashes, on one it survived over the bar crash, where the bike landed parked upsidedownThe brake on the other bike like it survived a fall about 1 meter from a concrete wall.
- Flex in the lever body when braking hard, Which also is present in the Spyke levers.
- I could never get the reach adjustment bolt to fit securely for long, after some days the bolt would come loose, although I used Loctite 243 I think this is due to the flex in the lever body when braking hard, So I had to add Loctite often.
- When the levers were new they were a significant amount of up & down play in the lever, which also is present in the Spyke levers, which increased over time. The metal bushings had some wear too, on the top and on the inside, which also contributed to the increased play, but there was significant play from the beginning, due to the bad tolerances, there was a small gap between the bushings and the lever body. The video below shows lever play after 5 months of use, but it was pretty much the same from the beginning.If you ride hard and the brake lever is pressed slightly at an angle due to the play it feels rough. All could easily be avoided if TRP had made it to a tighter tolerance, and used bearings or bushings, for the lever puller.But I have not found another mechanical brake lever that has these features.
- the use of rivet for wire puller was a bad choice, it causes fast wear, and more play, than when they were new, and it already had a lot of play, In my opinion, bearings or bushings would be a better solution. after some weeks of use the lever made some noises, due to the wear, I had to lube the moving parts, it kept getting worse, I continued to lube it regularly.
A closer look at the components the Lever is put together with:
Weight vs more reliable reach adjustment.
I can’t call the M930 an upgrade or better than the Spyke levers, the Spyke levers have the reach adjustment on the inside of the lever blade so the flex in the lever body won’t affect the adjustment, it’s also easier to reach, and adjust with a allen key.
I knew this could could be an issue on M930 levers , but I later found the Spyke levers, on chainreactioncycles.
this is not a perfect mechanical brake lever, neither is the Spyke, but due to the more reliable reach adjustment, I will use the Spyke lever instead.
But it’s not perfect, it has flaws, the rivets in the lever pullers for example.
A mix of these two levers, with the best elements, plus bearing would make a pretty good lever, but nothing like that exist yet to my knowledge.
the bike felt quite heavy when riding it, heavier steering than my fuel ex 7 29er, As the tyres are bigger & wider the wheels are heavier.
the steering was quite decent, there was no strange steering like on the Diamant 24inch, the bike did go where I wanted it to, when I wanted it to.
the Tektro brakes felt easy to press, and control, similar to Shimano’s, but a bit different, with good modulation, and braking power.
The frame did not have too much flex.
I did not have enough time to properly test ride this bike as the owner had to ride away.
I can’t recommend cheap bikes like these, the components are not great, no clutch on the Shimano Rear derailleur, square taper bottom bracket.
I have still not tested a fat bike in my size.
Although this bike was too small for me, my points are still valid, I have ridden other 24inch bikes, it’s not the size that makes this bike handle so horrible.This bike is anything but playful, the bike is so heavy its almost glued to the ground, It was impossible for me to do a wheelie or do even a short manual, even jumping was hard, because the weight kept the bike down.
The brakes lack power, due to only one piston.
but bunny hops are of course more difficult on a smaller bike, but it still felt way too heavy.
Riding up stair steps, in the skatepark, worked without any issues.
The drivetrain is a joke, it’s outdated and
when I turned to left it wanted to stay left and this was with the tyres pumped hard.
the fork has a big offset, and the head tube is slack, It’s overkill.
The bike is way too heavy, I am strong, and I could not get the front wheel to stay up, it was just slamming down hard, bunny hopping was quite hard, due to the weight.
Many of the Diamant bikes are rebranded bikes from other bike brands, Rockmachine is one of them, But I do not know if this one is rebranded or not.
I can’t recommend such heavy bike, even for an adult it’s way too heavy.
Australian distributor: http://www.fatbike.com.au/
The remote has a well-designed clamp, there are 2 threaded holes for inward-outward adjustment to get the lever positioned perfectly.
The barrel adjuster is very fragile, it can easily be bent or kinked, It’s likely this will happen in a crash if the housing forces it to bend, but it’s so weak you don’t need a crash for it to fail, I never crashed so badly that the barrel adjuster would bend.
Check out Peter Verdone’s post about remote:
the barrel adjuster on his remote snapped.
A closer look at the lever:
The bearing measurements:
Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm6h8Mih
So far I’ve not had a crash where there was an impact on hte lever, So I can’t comment on this at this point.
Easily misaligned if you use Velcro straps:
Using the provided Velcro straps, there will be significant movement which will cause the mudguard to move into the tyre, technical trails. I have of course had them as snug as possible, when it’s moving there is a risk of getting small branches stuck between the tyre and the mudguard.
See videos below:
But going for zip ties instead, will make it more secure, But there will still cane move if you hit it, so In a crash, it might misalign, So far I have not had issues with it misaligning, or tyre rub. I have ridden pretty fast and hard without any issues, but who knows what will happen later, But I think it will stay on ok.
This mudguard is much better than RRP Enduro guard, more coverage, and more durable, but still not perfect.
The provided stickers are pointless as they will not fit the style of every bike, and they just wear out.
The mud guard does definitely make a difference less mud on my goggles, it did not eliminate it completely, but no fender/guard will.
Since september, I have used the mudguard soem more, but I upgraded to Mudhugger.
I swapped the guard over to the hardtail, But when i did it I noticed the plastic has cracked in the gfork leg mountign holes.
Video of the muddies ride of 2017:
it gives some protection but not perfect, I have used Mudhugger FR which does a much better job, it trows the dirt back down in the f ront,and has more mounting holes.
For me, the fastest & easiest solution when the awful Shimano M552 cranks failed, was to get turbine cranks. The cranks on my trek 6300 bike failed, so I de sided to switch to my trusted Turbine crank, plus crisp King bb, so I decided to try Atlas cranks, I thought I would notice the difference, and I did.
I am about probably between 72-80kg, I ahven’t been on a scale in a long time (but this number varies on how much stuff I got in my backpack, I have not weighed in a long time, so I am probably heavier now.) with all the gear on
I have read reviews saying that there will not be noticeable differences, that was coming to a heavier reviewer, but pink bike review stated that there was a difference, their review is good so take a read d: https://pinkbike.com/news/race-face-atlas-cinch-crankset-review-2016.html
The crankset is quite similar looking, but there are several differences, the turbine cranks look pretty similar to the Atlas cranks, but the Turbine have a lot more material shaved off in arm where the bolt is & on the tip, the is also a difference in how much material is shaved off behind the crank, the Atlas has more material near the pedal.
Both of the cranks have a nylon preloading, which has a small Allen screw, which was easel rounded off even though I was very gentle.
So as soon as Cane Creek Preloader came on the market I ordered it for all the cranks.
Here is a pictures of it installed.
And on Turbine:
for commuting, or xc/light trail, these cranks were stiff enough, but on rougher trails, I could feel the difference in stiffness or another technical riding. I think turbine cranks have a good stiffness compromise & of lightweight.
First ride with Atlas cranks:
Even before riding the cranks on the trail I could feel the difference in stiffness, just by a quick test in being on the bike in the kitchen, I tested a lot of positions, but then I took it for a spin on the trails some days later.
The first ride on the trails, I felt the difference, even though my frame is quite flexible in the BB area.
I could feel that the Atlas cranks were stiffer while riding technical trials.
- The bolt has bad tolerances, causing wear, this is the case for both Turbine & Atlas the cranks of course
I think turbine cranks have a good stiffness compromise & of lightweight, so perfect for a commuter bike or for lighter riders.
I am all for everything that gives me better control, and stability, which both Turbine and Atlas cranks gave me over the cheaper much more flexible Shimano cranks I have ridden in the past.
Turbine Photo Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskzamsxQ
scratches easy and gets covered in scratches fast, just takes few days to get it all scratched up, few weeks and the touch is does not work properly.
anything hard will scratch it with ease.
easy to apply and remove.
waste of money.
I have only used this bike as spare bike in the summer, but I used the bike one and a half winters, the same thing happen as the Acera cranks, the square taper hole had damage, it did not show as much as this bike was not used as much,I noticed it before any huge play, as on the Acera crank there was damage to the corners, there were some scratches and small crushed metal,but I also noticed the UN26 bottom bracket was worn out, it was barely used, just used few days, they lasted quite long before, But I did not check the play for play in the bb.
These cranks are about as flexible as the Acera cranks.
these cranks don’t work well with 1x set up as the offset of the middle ring is too far outwards, so without spacers, the drivetrain will be very noisy.
So, of course, these cranks and BB were removed, I can’t have components like these on a bike I ride because I will destroy them, For me, it’s not saving money, but wasting money & time, Only High-end components for me!
The rear of the jersey has a mesh, so you back will be a lot cooler, I have noticed a difference, when riding with backpack, perfect jersey for hot summer days.
Jerseys like these are a lot cooler than not wearing any thing, because sweat goes in the fabric off your body, and tries up, and air cools you down.
the jersey don’t have any uncomfortable stitching or labels.
The jersey I got have blue & white color livery, so it’s quite visible.
The jersey has a perfect fit, and works well with body armour.
The jersey has a excellent fit, my Size Is XL, I use L for Alpinestars,L/G for Mavic
I definitely recommend these jerseys.
This rear dérailleur has been on some long rides, and got some abuse, some of the abuse was from crashes, some of the abuse is from the 2014 fuel ex frame set, so I am sure it contributed to the rear dérailleur wearing out faster.
I have ridden this rear dérailleur since 2015, some weeks in 2016 & the whole 2016/2017 winter plus one winter, and some weeks and days in the summer of 2017.
I ride a lot, I ride at least 5 days in a week (if I am well enough to), from 1 hour few hours, depending on how I ride up to 20 plus km, sometimes less, but my point is I ride a lot.
I have mostly used this rear dérailleur with 1x setup.
Sometimes I am unlucky and crash or mess up on a technical climb, and this is why the rear dérailleur got some scratches, It had some scratches before the crash, for smaller impacts, but the last crash really shows damage, but it’s only cosmetic damage, so my conclusion is that this is a robust rear able to take a lot of abuse, but the pins and swing arms are not replaceable, So when has play you have to get a new rear dérailleur.
I crashed off a 1 m concrete wall, the cage was grinding against the wall, I had shifting issues, First I thought they might be the result of the crash, But later I found it not to be the case.
I Did an inspection on the rear dérailleur, I checked all the adjustment screws I took off the cage and did a service, the cage was bent, So I straightened it, but the shifting issues were still present. So I checked them, but then I checked for play, the rear dérailleur had huge play, so it was definitely the play. causing issues.
but I straightened it, but after few days of riding, I noticed shifting issues, So I checked the all the adjustment screws, but then I checked for play, the rear dérailleur had huge play, so it was definitely the play. causing issues.
after riding few weeks with, there was just too much play to do up-shifts, the play caused the Rd to hesitate on shifts.
SLX M675 comes with bad jockey wheels, but you can upgrade to proper jockey wheels, the problem with the stock jockey wheels is that the that the jockey wheel and the metal ring grind against with other and cause damage to the jockey wheel which causes it to not spin smoothly.
Even upgrading to XT jockey wheels which work better, they are not that great, Hope has better spacers, they are Labyrinth style spacers, so the bearings are more protected against contaminants.
I recommend upgrading to Hope jockey wheels or similar, with proper bearings & proper cover.
It leaves your gear smelling fresh,If you apply a lot of of foam,but it won’t do a better job than hand soap.
Dish soap or hand soap can do better:
Does not work as well, as normal hand soap will.
I used Lano hand soap to clean it,So far Lano soap & Zalo (Zalo is a quite common dish soap which a lot of people use to clean their bikes, not perfect for drivetrains,which Muc off degreasers do well and getting that brown color off you bike, which the last one Muc-Off Nano Tech Bike Cleaner does a great job with.) has been very good at cleaning all kinds of things out of my hands,apart chain lubes and stuff like this, But for cleaning stuff soaked in sweat it works great.So I had to try it.
With these 2 soaps you can see the helmet the effect of the soap quite fast.
with these 2 soaps I managed to clean helmet inserts so there was no dirty water coming out when rising off, which Muc off fresh foam did not, when rising off, there were dirty water after many tries, even after applying the foam and let it soak in and and rub with a sponge, there were still very dirty water when rising off many times.
Most dish soap will do the job,But make sure you don’t use to soaps/cleaners on helmets that can damage the materials.
Muc off fresh foam can clean lenses filled with dirt, but not much else.
Getting the sweat soaked helmet inserts, or adjustment straps clean & completely without a stink is impossible.
I even Tried to clean my Forest smelling Five ten Freerider shoes, which did not work, the shoes still smelled like forest, even after applying a lot of foam many times with aggressive cleaning with a rag.
Another bad thing about the foam is that it runs out way too fast, but with liquid soap or solid soap, last way longer.
I can’t recommend this cleaner,as it does a poor job on cleaning shoes, shoe soles,goggles,helmet inserts. I won’t buy it again.
To clean properly clean items like these: shoes, shoe soles,goggles,helmet inserts.
I recommend cleaning them by hand with water and hand soap or dish soap
Using a Washing machine can damage goggle foam,plastic parts on the helmet inserts,as it is a way too brutal method.
The best method to clean shoes,helmet inserts, similar things, is to use water, hand soap or dishwashing soap, and a sponge.
soak the item in water, apply soap, get soap every where with a sponge, let the soap do its job few minutes,then use the sponge clean every thing and the last the is rising the item with water. if you use hard hand soap, you can rub it against the surface you want to clean.
So this remote is actually not something I would use.
but here is what I have to say about it:
So far I have only ridden 2 trips with this remote.
if the suspension is set up correctly, and the geometry on the bike is decent, I don’t need a lockout, with my back issues I ride with as soft suspension as possible without bottoming out.
The new design definitely is a lot better in terms of ergonomics, it’s much easier to sue, similar to a shifter, the levers pop back in place fast, påressing the levers are very easy.
Make sure the screw/bolt is torqued properly, use thread locker. if it’s not all the way in, the remote will lock the suspension on bumps.
As long as you keep the bolt tight there should not be any issues, I tried to jump, ride over rock gardens, it looks like it’s only a loose bolt that can cause problems.
The screw came with red thread locker, but it did not make it was just a tiny bit, Always apply thread locker, and let it cure overnight, to avoid issues like this.
It also came with little a bit of red grease might be Weldtite, I don’t know, but it had the same color.
As have many plastic parts, ITs not as durable as metal of course, but it’s unlikely that you hit the remote in a crash.
- Hinged clamp, which I think is a must on any cockpit device.
- easy ergonomic lever design almost like a shifter, very easy & comfortable to use.
- you have to remove the Cover to change the wires, for me it’s not a problem, buts it’s not as user-friendly as it could be, but it works.
- The Remote keeps the wire under tension for unlocked suspension, So if you damage the remote you got stiff / locked out suspension.
- The small lever, is very easy to actuate, so accidental knee hits will lock the fork.
- The plastic cover is flimsy and not durable, and it moves when the big lever comes back fast.
- The cover failed after few rides, it might be caused by the big lever returning so fast, I had the bike leaning against a wall, the cover was not leaning against anything, I picked it up to ride, and I the cover fell off, I ma sure this was not caused by over-torquing the screw, or a crash,because I haven’t done neither.
- the lock gets actuated by vibration
- the is no barrel adjusters.
Too flawed design with plastic cover, I can’t recommend this remote.
So far this is what I found.
If you decide to buy the bike that you paid for the domo/rent of the bike will be reduced in the price when you buy it.
Santa Cruz (2017 demo bikes just in being built)
http://www.jbssport.no/ Yt industries which are sold for 20% off later.
On utflukt you have to buy a festival pass. the brands vary from year to year,but canyon has been demoing there for few years.
Demo days In Trysil in June 2017
Trysil 22-25. Juni 2017
Check if a bike park got current models of bikes,but you are lucky if they do,and usually they have the cheapest models, and after few years they replace them with more current bikes.
Some biek parks got demo days:
Kjerringåsen alpin senter had demo days in the past,and will probably have more.
I think Norway is a beautiful place, at least in the summer.
Norway is a heaven for mountain bikers, but I noticed that many people don’t know it.
The best platform for trails is trailforks, but there are still a lot of trails and areas missing,because you can points of interest, picttures, videos, reports.
Many of the riding areas that are not on trail forks are on trailguide.no/
Den Norske Turistforening: The Norwegian tourist association
I have used these pads for several months, and I think they are good.
The Joint VPD 2.0 elbow offers much more secure fit than POC Joint VPD Air Elbow, because of the dual strap system.
When taking the pads on, make sure you have them high enough up your arm, to provide as secure fit as possible, if not the pad might slide off when you crash backward, I use the top adjustment strap to the max.
- Very easy to put on and off.
- I rode down a fast down a hill, and my elbow joint slipped, causing me to hit my elbow in a tree fast, it did not hurt.
- Comfortable, does not restrict movement.
- Dual strap, which I think is absolutely necessary with this kind of pads.
- Durable, strong materials used & well stitched, so taking them on and of won’t wear them out.
- if you damage the stitching, you can just sew it together, proper materials used
- even thou the padding has ventilation holes, the pads are hot and sweaty.
Priority on protection.
Even thou the pads are hot and sweaty the protection the provide is definitely worth it, absolutely recommended.
you can buy it here:
Kan kjøps I disse butikkene:
You should Always Check if everything is correct when getting the back from a shop, I never trusted the local shops.
Big mistakes The local bike shop did:
IT’s important that shops have the knowledge to service & repair the bikes properly.
- wrong bolt length, way too short bolt, but I had bolted from Bontrager SSR Seatpost fro my trek fuel ex, that fit perfectly, So I just swapped them, they Did the same mistake on one more bike.
- Wrong BB 68mm in 73mm bb shell & no Locktite on the threads so the BB came loose
- Crushed headset bearings, which is probably bike shop’s fault.
- leaning my bike against a empty carton box,& almost do a domino off all the bikes in the shop, But I grabbed the first falling bike & saved the day.
But when I lost the Linkage bolt on my fuel ex they got the part fast, and did the job fast.
but the problem is with local shops is that they only make money on repair, But I no longer go to a shop for any repairs.
- I had to educate them on prices, googles for example, they did not know the price of the Adidas Pinner goggle, so they had to call a another store for price, but they looked at the wrong google.
What many local shops doo wrong:
- no demo bikes to try before buying.
- not stocking some of the most common parts to wear pout.
- Giving good deals & Freewheel truing, and kind and telling the truth, but if the shop did this to more customer than me No wonder the local bike shop went bankrupt, but they probably did not do that, because I was the only customer they remembered the name of.
- lack of knowledge about both the old school, modern bikes, both road and mtb.
- Lack of the tool, every shop MUST HAVE, I have seen this in Sport stores too.
- not doing everything
- Long wait time.
- Too many bikes to repair, too few people to do the job.
- Bikes not assembled correctly.
- too many bikes too closely together, with horrible and unstable stands, so there is a big chance of Domino effect.
- lack of proper web presence
- Not using torque wrench
- I have heard a guy complaining about, one of the mechanics using 2 different kinds of grease,& making a mess.
Many bike shops & sport store chains will try to make money of your stupidity or lack of knowledge:
Marketing cheap awfull jink as dirt jump bikes should be forbidden, because they are safety hazards and can fail & lead to injury or death, some forks or components have stickers with warnings.
- Many bike shops will not tell you the whole truth, because they want you to come back for more repairs,because you ridden with loose spokes, or too low pressure or what ever and tacoed the wheels, broken some parts, That has never happen to me, but I know that’s how it is.
- Lack internet presence, for example website, face book or twitter.
- if you are a beginner they want to sell a garbage bike to you,those so-called beginner or budget bikes, with sr Suntour forks, and outdated drivetrains,with way too many gears, bad ergonomics or shifters, horrible grips, tyres,saddle, QR release hub,for example Shimano m475 hubs,which got horrible seals.
the things that the local shop did right:
- offering custom build bikes to your wish.
Some things that are wrong with the bike industry:
- some brands do too little advertising & instructional videos, and product overviews, videos, so all the info you get is only on their site, which sometimes is not great.
some brands are not good at making a budget or mid-range bike:
making budget bikes with some high-end medium range, to some of the most low-end outdated parts mixed altogether all over the place.
my 2014 trek fuel ex 7 29er,triple rings, fox fork which is a not bad, but horrible flexible wheels that went out of true after few days, tyres that wore out after 4 weeks,cranks that failed,as soon as I put on new Turbine cinch cranks and new hope pro 4 enduro wheelset the bike became a whole new beast.
Too hard to get some components or some bike gear, & clothing:
for example Poc:
I had to buy some pair of gloves from fjellsport.no, some from sykkelkompoinenter.no some I had to buy chamois boxers from iterreng.no some from amazon.com some from fjellsport.no
the Poc stuff sell fast, and not many stores got it.
Norwegian Import tax making it more expensive to get every thing I need:
There are many things I have to order from outside Norway, which means I have to pay 25% import tax, which is a lot of money, for example Shimano parts are impossible to get without waiting for the shop to order it fro importer which gets it to Norway so the whole process will take few weeks.
Don’t let marketing fool you and steer you towards something you will regret.
Pointless selling points, which Trek, for example, is doing a lot.
Some brands are good at marketing stuff for people who does not know anything, and make it sound like its the best thing in the world, I only care about facts, and how it performs in real life. Trek is a perfect example of this.the trek 2014 fuel ex 7 29er was not as amazing as trek made it to be, wheels were junk, crank arms failed, tyres worn out in 4 weeks, too many gears for a trail bike….
but if rode well, good handling, great stable steering, great fit, but frame was too flexy for me with 75kg with all gear on.
But there are those that don’t even try to make a proper video, or convince you to buy it, which is partly a good thing, but if they don’t people won’t discover them as easily.
if you want to make a ad or introduction video give is the facts wee need and explain why this bike might be for us,so it can give us a ide if we want it or not, but reading customer reviews & demoing/trying the bike out is the best for the customers to get a good bike
This is why Demoing a bike is important, but at the time I needed a full suspension bike fast.
How to do it right:
Here’s a video explaining more about this,by PittsburghActive
the shop in the video is TRAILFLO bikes I, I think their business method is good, they let you go on rides with them, instead of paying for a demo bike,and they build the bike for you how you want it to, when you decided on the right bike, I think more shops should do this.
Treating us like idiots in ads, making a simple commuter bike sound like it’s an amazing piece of engineering with new technology when it’s actually basic technology that is decades old, and who cares about grips, we buy the grips we want anyway the same goes for saddles.
We Have to help them: us the customer should write reviews and share the flaws products, but they should also try to make better products and stop releasing flawed products, products that are clearly flawed.
Most of the mountain bike gloves don’t last long, but if you can sew you can, of course, fix them if you have materials & sewing kit.
Lack of full finger MTB gloves, so far there is no glove to my knowledge marketed as a Mtb glove with full finger impact protection, and palm protection, But if you look out side of the MTB market you will find brands like Mechanix, making gloves that hasve these features and are suited for mtb use.
for me Poc resistance strong gloves are the best glove branded as MTB glover, but the palm wear out too fast,So I contacted them about this, writing a review and not sharing won’t help them,So please if you like a product but its not perfect, contact who makes it and help them make it better.
Reviews. reviews that don’t help us:
If you write a review you have to have tested it properly for a long period, not just a few hours.
The good stuff:
the last 2 years I have seen a big increase in free mountain bike instructional/technique videos
I am self-taught and have mastered most skills, apart from the extreme dirt jump tricks, which I will never do, but some people don’t learn as fast by just trying it them selves, some people need guidance, and see how it should be done to do it.
a few years ago, there just a few videos and all the good stuff was paid only, more accessible videos will keep beginners riding better faster.
I have compiled a list of youtube channels to watch in this post: https://mtbboy1993.wordpress.com/2016/03/04/must-watch-mtb-maintenance-channels-on-youtube-marsh-2016-edition/
The increase in User reviews, demo of bikes on Youtube.
This video is an excellent example of an excellent bike review video.
but still not many doing this, I have not had the chance to try any demo bikes yet, but I tried my best to do a proper review of my bikes, which is more in depth than any other magazine has done(that I know of)
for me, it was easiest to take pictures and some videos of my bike, and write when something needed to be written, and I continued this, and even though the review was not finished I posted it and updated it over and over again until it became a very in-depth review.
More of you should do the same, but with the top-notch bikes there is not much negative to say, but on the budget bikes, there is can be much wrong or it can be a good deal, so proper reviews are important, but I strongly recommend building a custom bike,its a lot cheaper.
no bearings, or bushings on most of them on the market.
Other things that are wrong:
here are some vids by Bikeradar:
Trek spec’ing their cheaper models with garbage wheels, spoke nipples that can’t take hits from stones, can’t take truing.
rear dérailleurs that can’t be fully dissembled and serviced- but new Box One RD looks promising.
many bikes are too flexible, some Trek( 2014-15 FUel EX for sure) & Merida
many bikes don’t have the right weld,construction, flex & stiffness ratio. I have seen a lot of failures while browsing the most of the bike forums , instagram, facebook so much silly mistakes, it’s sad, so many rush jobs.
not engineering each frame size with correct strength, stiffness, flex ratios
absurdly bad tyre clearance
use of weak soft bolts
cable routing with extreme angles, causing rapid wire and housing wear.
lack of quality control and proper assembly of bicycles, sadly trek did this, they might have improved this, I don’t know.
But I saw a fuel ex with missing pivot washer, mine came with crazy over torqued bolt, maybe they used electric screwdriver/drill with wrong torque.