TRP ML930 mechanical lever 5 months review

The lever body has visible flex while braking, But I can’t notice it while braking.

TRP offers a carbon version of this lever, which is ML940.


  • better ergonomics than Spyke lever, it got a rounder profile, not as great as Shimano’s shape.
  • Excellent barrel adjuster, it fits well into my fingers and makes it very easy to adjust the wire tension.
  • Lighter than the ML800 Spyke levers
  • Hinged mount for easy removal
  • Rech adjustment so these levers will work well for a kids bike.
  • I have these levers on both of my fuel ex 29ers, and they the levers on both survived crashes, on one it survived over the bar crash, where the bike landed parked upsidedownThe brake on the other bike like it survived a fall about 1 meter from a concrete wall.


  • Flex in the lever body when braking hard, Which also is present in the Spyke levers.
  • I could never get the reach adjustment bolt to fit securely for long, after some days the bolt would come loose, although I used Loctite 243 I think this is due to the flex in the lever body when braking hard, So I had to add Loctite often.
  • When the levers were new they were a significant amount of up & down play in the lever, which also is present in the Spyke levers, which increased over time. The metal bushings had some wear too, on the top and on the inside, which also contributed to the increased play, but there was significant play from the beginning, due to the bad tolerances, there was a small gap between the bushings and the lever body. The video below shows lever play after 5 months of use, but it was pretty much the same from the beginning.If you ride hard and the brake lever is pressed slightly at an angle due to the play it feels rough. All could easily be avoided if TRP had made it to a tighter tolerance, and used bearings or bushings, for the lever puller.But I have not found another mechanical brake lever that has these features.






  • the use of rivet for wire puller was a bad choice, it causes fast wear, and more play, than when they were new, and it already had a lot of play, In my opinion, bearings  or bushings would be a better solution. after some weeks of use the lever made some noises, due to the wear, I had to lube the moving parts, it kept getting worse, I continued to lube it regularly.







TRP ML 930 levers fitted on a 800mm Race Face Sixc handlebar, I have them setup 3cm from the grips.

A closer look at the components the Lever is put together with:

The return spring
Lever blade with all parts installed as it would be in the lever body. I managed to do some minor damage to the bolt, in a crash.
Clearly visible damage caused by play in the wire puller, there was significantly more play, in after few months of use, it was a bad choice to use rivets for the wire puller.

whole lever blade assembly: DU FLANGE bushings o lever, return spring, bolt & axle.

Weight vs more reliable reach adjustment. 




 I can’t call the M930 an upgrade or better than the  Spyke levers, the Spyke levers have the reach adjustment on the inside of the lever blade so the flex in the lever body won’t affect the adjustment, it’s also easier to reach, and adjust with a allen key.

I knew this could could be an issue on M930 levers , but I later found the Spyke levers, on chainreactioncycles.


Marzocchi Remote  & TRP Spyke lever_0289



this is not a perfect mechanical brake lever, neither is the Spyke, but due to the more reliable reach adjustment, I will use the Spyke lever instead.

But it’s not perfect, it has flaws, the rivets in the lever pullers for example.

A mix of these two levers, with the best elements, plus bearing would make a pretty good lever, but nothing like that exist yet to my knowledge.

6 thoughts on “TRP ML930 mechanical lever 5 months review

    1. Cus I wanted a brake that was reliable, so I had working brakes no matter which brakes I might try in the future, I needed something I knew would work without ride stopping failure, but I will continue researching brakes & other components.
      but as you can see from this reeview these levers are not perfect.
      these rbakes aree meant as a backup.
      I don’t don’t lack power from TRp Spyke, they are dual piston, so as powerful as the M615 which failed.
      I have my soem hydraulic brakes, but my requirements alimintae alot of the brakes on the market, I don’t want Dot, I want bearings in the lever forzero play, the master cylinder msut be stiff enougg for no failures to happen, like crushed threads, leaking, which is going to happen with Shimano M615 , M396 and all other of the similar style cheap shimano brakes, so my next brake will have to be the best brake in existance.


      1. I have Hope, Shimano and Avid Elixir accross my various bikes. Hope 5* reliability but need to be serviced properly to keep the performance but always work. Shimano, newer brakes have a slightly wandering bite point but a few lever pumps and its cleared and good to go, relieable stopping power, this never goes away. Older Shimano, %100 reliable, less power than modern. Avid Elixir, amazing brakes if you keep them bled regularly, sometimes a lever bleed is all you need. I had Avid BB5’s as my first disc brake but have never felt the need to return to them. The modulation in the power I gained from moving to hydro over cable more than made up for the maintenance. Everyoens ride is different though and right for them, was just curious.


      2. I had the wondering bite too, I had htem bled bled once but it came back, cus it came back, air was introduced to the master cylinder, cus of the bending, eventually the seals in the caliper caused leaks, I have not contacted Shimano yet.
        If you got a well engeneered hydraullic brake, that jsut works, with no need to constantly bleed hydraulics are worth it, no fried cable, no cable to change, no housign to change cus of wear.
        My Trek 6300 came with Juicy 3, it did not feel as good as the deore, but it did not leak from the master cylinder, no failed threads, but I wore otu the return spring, the brake also lost power, shop bleed them but did nto help, the guy said they woudl have to change out the parts, which they did nto have, it was probably worn seals in the caliper, but no oil on the fluid on the rotors.


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